- EPROM copier/programmer advice please - 2 Updates
- Where to get car rear-deck speakers (haven't bought speakers in decades) - 9 Updates
- Schottky rectifier improvisation - 1 Update
| John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Dec 04 05:07PM -0800 On 2017/12/04 4:37 PM, Michael A Terrell wrote: > You can find adapters designed for Commodore 64 computers to change > the 2532 wiring to 2732. They can be built with a couple IC sockets and > a couple jumpers. Let me see, the pins that need to be exchanged are: 2532 - Pin 21 Vpp, 18 is A11 2732 - Pin 21 is A11 and 18 is /E So, as I recall, you just need lift pin 21 on your read adapter socket, and tie that to pin 24 (need 5V to read), then lift pin 18 of the read socket and tie it to pin 21 of the EPROM reader socket. Clear enough? John :-#)# John ;-#)# -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3 (604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out." |
| bitrex <bitrex@de.lete.earthlink.net>: Dec 05 10:11AM -0500 > really need something that is basically plug and play. But thanks > anyway. > Eric If you change your mind someone already did the hard work of designing the hardware and writing the code here: <http://simonwinder.com/2015/05/how-to-read-old-eproms-with-the-arduino/> All you'd have to do is buy the parts and about 20 minutes of soldering, then plug in and execute the code. |
| Xeno <xenolith@optusnet.com.au>: Dec 05 12:02PM +1100 On 5/12/2017 7:56 AM, harry newton wrote: > <http://wetakepic.com/images/2017/12/04/speaker3.jpg> > I think the new speakers will have to come out through the top: > <http://wetakepic.com/images/2017/12/04/speaker6d52eb.jpg> It's the only way you're getting them out of there. The top trim panel should come out fairly easily and make access to the speaker retainers easy as well. -- Xeno |
| harry newton <harry@is.invalid>: Dec 05 03:48AM He who is Oren said on Mon, 04 Dec 2017 14:54:05 -0800: > It really is a shame when college kids can't fix a scratchy sounding > speaker. A speaker smarter than a snowflake. with a safe place. The whole family is girls. |
| micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Dec 04 10:50PM -0500 In alt.home.repair, on Mon, 04 Dec 2017 14:45:35 -0500, Clare Snyder >>>If it's the speaker, where is a good place (other than the dealer) to get >>The dealer is a terrible place. Do they even sell speakers? ;; > WEhy is it a terrible place"? -0 and of course they sell speakers. AIUI, the dealers' speakers are no better than what they put in the car originally, but it's possible things have changed. Anyoone know? If they are no better than original, they are still useful when the original ones have been ruined somehow. >The right ones, that bolt in properly, even. Yes, they cost abit more >than the ones that don't fit. Who is talking about ones that don't fit? I've never bought a speaker from Crutchfield that didn't fit just as the original one did, except for one car. I knew from the specs printed in the catalog (before the web) that it was too deep, but I hoped magic would allow me to get it in there (or maybe I could pound out a dent in the outside of the door!). Indeed, it was just the depth they said it was, and so was the hole in my car and it didnt' fit. Hmm. I'm sure the dealer would have had speakers that fit, but I don't know that they would have been any better than what I had. >>something and I wasn't in a hurry but I got it the next day. > They will likely have "universal" speakers and adapter brackets - >which usually work OK - - - - - Have you dealt with Cructchfield. No speaker I ever bought from them used an adapter bracket, and none would be called universal. Of course a 6x9x2.8" speaker can univerally fit every car that accespts speakers of that size, but that doesn't make the speaker universal. I won't be replacing my current speakers. Solaras don't use speaker cover, except maybe on the dash. So to upgrade my speakers I'd have to, I think, take off my entire inside front door panel or my entire rear seat panel. After the fiasco of my last car, I'm not going to do that. They do sell radios that require a bracket, because the face is not the same exact shape as the original, or because one is changing from 2 or 1.5 DIN to 1 DIN, etc. But I don't think that's related. |
| micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Dec 04 11:32PM -0500 In alt.home.repair, on Mon, 4 Dec 2017 20:56:03 +0000 (UTC), harry >> wire on the stereo needs to be checked -- maybe? >That's a good idea to wiggle wires (I haven't done speakers in years). >The car is at college You must be so proud. My car didn't even finish the 6th grade. |
| Jack <jack@127.0.0.1>: Dec 05 04:20AM -0500 On 12/04/2017 10:50 PM, micky wrote: > originally, but it's possible things have changed. Anyoone know? If > they are no better than original, they are still useful when the > original ones have been ruined somehow. Short of a volume limiter, I don't believe you can protect a speaker from a teenager. |
| tabbypurr@gmail.com: Dec 05 02:30AM -0800 On Tuesday, 5 December 2017 09:21:09 UTC, Jack wrote: > > they are no better than original, they are still useful when the > > original ones have been ruined somehow. > Short of a volume limiter, I don't believe you can protect a speaker from a teenager. There is one way, let them pay for the replacement. NT |
| "pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Dec 05 04:11AM -0800 Oren needs an attitude transplant. Girls or otherwise, tech has changed mightily these last 40 years and if Oren is going to opine from 20,000 feet, perhaps he might find another location to do so. Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA |
| "pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Dec 05 04:14AM -0800 On Monday, December 4, 2017 at 8:02:33 PM UTC-5, Xeno wrote: > It's the only way you're getting them out of there. The top trim panel > should come out fairly easily and make access to the speaker retainers > easy as well. Yep, four machine-screws and the unit will *POP* right out - that is, after overcoming the damping glue probably installed at the factory. I have used a flexible 1" putty knife in the past for the purpose. It is not a bad idea to use some similar material on re-installation to prevent rattling. Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA |
| Tim Schwartz <tim@bristolnj.com>: Dec 05 07:59AM -0500 Good morning Harry, I'd suggest going to the Crutchfield web site: www.crutchfield.com or more specifically: https://www.crutchfield.com/S-sqOT5Uro1Zu/car/carselector.aspx They have speakers that are an exact fit, starting around $40, and will have correct hardware and they will have adapter cables as well, if you need them. Regards, Tim On 12/4/2017 8:14 AM, harry newton wrote: |
| Pimpom <Pimpom@invalid.com>: Dec 05 01:45AM +0530 On 12/4/2017 11:05 PM, bitrex wrote: > Do you have a schematic available you can post? Is the "standby supply" > a linear PSU? Could be that they just used the B3100 because that's what > they had on hand in quantity and the faster recovery time is immaterial No schematic. I downloaded the service manual but they omitted the power supply - deliberately it seems. They note in one place that the PSU is not serviceable and must be replaced as a unit. The standby supply is definitely a switching type. It is only one section of the whole power supply system which is on one large single-sided board. |
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