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MOP CAP <email@domain.com>: Dec 05 12:05PM -0800 I have looked on ebay and amazon for these. There is a plethora of choices and confusing. Has anyone had experience with any suppliers? Thanks, CP

mike <ham789@netzero.net>: Dec 06 12:02AM -0800 On 12/5/2017 12:05 PM, MOP CAP wrote: > Has anyone had experience with any suppliers? > Thanks, > CP   Keep a watch at Ace Hardware. They had the drill with battery for $30 and half off that around BF. 'tis the season for tool battery deals.   Batteries are a crap shoot. Aftermarket batteries seem to get good initial reviews, then later, lots of complaints that they don't last long. Can't trust the 'shill' reviews. I decided to stick with real vendor batteries on sale at local retailers.   I also retired all my old B&D crap and craftsman crap and skill crap and the box of dead batteries and the box of chargers and and and and switched to Ryobi lithium. They're transitioning to brushless and having some good deals on packages of brushed motor tools. And Ryobi shows up a lot at garage sales and thrift stores for dirt cheap. If you use tools for business, may want to go with a better brand, but for homeowner use, they're fine.   I really like the ability to swap batteries between generations of tools. And lithium has the great advantage that it's not dead every time you want to use it. NiCd self discharge is a bitch for tools you don't use every day.

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Dec 06 01:09AM -0800 On Wednesday, 6 December 2017 08:04:05 UTC, mike wrote: > of tools. And lithium has the great advantage that it's not dead > every time you want to use it. NiCd self discharge is a bitch > for tools you don't use every day.   I pulled out a lithium cordless tool the other day that hadn't been used in years. Pressed the trigger and to my surprise it ran.     NT

Foxs Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Dec 06 08:23AM -0600 On 12/6/2017 2:02 AM, mike wrote: > and and switched to Ryobi lithium.   20 years ago, Ryobi closed all their parts warehouses in the US. Secondly, for example, if you blow the gear box in a Makita, you order a complete new gearbox. With Ryobi, you get to order each part individually and assemble it yourself.   Yeah, I did this for a living for a while.   -- Jeff-1.0 wa6fwi http://www.foxsmercantile.com

kludge@panix.com (Scott Dorsey): Dec 05 02:14PM -0500 >>so, since I'll likely want to get a set, that would be $660 for the set.   >You can find a Pioneer 6x9 speaker for a better price than that, >surely. If it fits the OEM -- why not?   Whereas you can get generic 6x9s from Parts Express for around $5 each, for a total of $20 the set, and they probably won't be any worse than the originals. --scott       -- "C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Dec 05 11:36AM -0800 On Tuesday, December 5, 2017 at 2:14:40 PM UTC-5, Scott Dorsey wrote: > --scott   > -- > "C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."   Yeah. The dual-cone devices (per OEM) run a princely $8.25 for four and up. Splurge!   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

Oren <Oren@127.0.0.1>: Dec 05 12:18PM -0800 >Short of a volume limiter, I don't believe you can protect a speaker from a teenager.   ...Slowly raises hand. I could shake the pictures on the walls at home. Once came up from the basement, after the stereo sound stopped.   Dang. A speaker was on fire. I threw it out the front door, in the snow.

Tekkie® <Tekkie@comcast.net>: Dec 05 03:19PM -0500 harry newton posted for all of us...     > I like the ideas of: > a. Testing with a separate speaker (if I can find one)   I like the idea of hooking a guitar amp up to a transistor radio speaker to see how far the magnet flies.   -- Tekkie

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Dec 05 12:52PM -0800 On Tuesday, December 5, 2017 at 3:18:31 PM UTC-5, Oren wrote: > home. Once came up from the basement, after the stereo sound stopped.   > Dang. A speaker was on fire. I threw it out the front door, in the > snow.   That is why God invented the fuse. ALL my (decent) speakers are fused, and none of the others are being fed by anything even nearly capable of delivering that level of energy into that device sufficient for ignition.   Generally, fuses are designed to protect real-estate. Careful fusing will protect some equipment sometimes. Exceptionally careful fusing will protect most equipment, most of the time. No fuse is perfect. But some are so imperfect as to be genuinely dangerous, and possibly actually evil.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

Clifford Heath <no.spam@please.net>: Dec 06 10:58AM +1100 On 05/12/17 14:48, harry newton wrote:   >> It really is a shame when college kids can't fix a scratchy sounding >> speaker. A speaker smarter than a snowflake. with a safe place.   > The whole family is girls.   All the more reason to encourage them to learn to make and fix stuff. Geek girls rock!

Clare Snyder <clare@snyder.on.ca>: Dec 05 08:43PM -0500 On Wed, 6 Dec 2017 10:58:11 +1100, Clifford Heath <no.spam@please.net> wrote:     >> The whole family is girls.   >All the more reason to encourage them to learn to make and fix stuff. >Geek girls rock!   My youngest intimidated most of her boyfriends untill she met her now hiusband - a heavy truck mechanic. None of the others coulkd drive her car (standard) and she could change a flat - they had to call road service - - -

harry newton <harry@is.invalid>: Dec 06 02:13AM He who is Scott Dorsey said on 5 Dec 2017 14:14:38 -0500:   > Whereas you can get generic 6x9s from Parts Express for around $5 each, > for a total of $20 the set, and they probably won't be any worse than the > originals.   Price is never an indication of quality - it's just an indication of what other people are willing to pay - which - marketing knows - is highly influenced by marketing garbage.   So, a 6x9" 20W $5 Parts Express speaker might or might not be as good as a 6x9" 20W $300 speaker at Toyota which itself might or might not be as good as a 6x9" 20W $25 speaker at Crutchfields.   How are we to know? Sure, in the days of yore, we pored over those 3db power:frequency curves, from 7KHz to 20KHz on each speaker box, and where, folks like Jeff Liebermann would know, they always find a way to lie a little bit.   While I doubt the $300 per speaker at Toyota is a fair price, how can I tell, a priori, if the $5 speaker at Parts Express will be as good (or bad) as the $25 speaker at Crutchfields?   Is there any way for a consumer to make an intelligent speaker decision?

Clare Snyder <clare@snyder.on.ca>: Dec 05 11:33PM -0500 On Wed, 6 Dec 2017 02:13:06 +0000 (UTC), harry newton >tell, a priori, if the $5 speaker at Parts Express will be as good (or bad) >as the $25 speaker at Crutchfields?       >Is there any way for a consumer to make an intelligent speaker decision? A good indicator of quality is magnet mass. If it has a tiny little piddler of a magnet it will not handle any power - particularly bass. Then lookat the cone material, and the surround. The spider is also important- The basket is less critical - but in a large powerfull speaker the basket will be MUCH solider than on a cheap-ass speaker. If youfind a speaker with a cast aluminum basket you know you are looking at a higher quality speaker - and if it is stamped steel, the heavier the better.   Poor suspension spiders and surrounds will let the voice-coil scuff on the magnet core - which makes a speaker rattle. A flexible basket can do the same. The surround compliance is different on a speaker designed for an accoustic suspension box than for a bass reflex, or an open baffle like in the average auto rear deck. Toyota actually used accoustic suspension on some of the "premium" sound systems years ago.   LOTS of things you can look at.   I have a pair of OEM Toyota speakers from the eighties sitting here, as well as a pair of speakers from a Zenith TV of about the same period - virtually the same size - and the Toyota speaker is significantly heavier. Thicker cone, thicker basket metal, and more rigid design - as well as a MUCH larger and stronger magnet, The Zenith also uses an "m"formed paper surround, while the Toyota uses a rubber surround. I've got a "tin ear" but even I can tell the difference between the two.   The drivers in my AudioResearch towers are MUCH heavier than my no-name set too - and I replaced the foam surrounds that had totally "disolved" from age with new high-quality synthetic rubber surrounds - on both the active and passive 14 inch cones.   In automotive speakers the basket rigidity is more important because of the "G" forces experienced when driving on rough roads. The cheap speaker might sound good when installed - but it may be pretty auful two years later.

micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Dec 05 11:50PM -0500 In alt.home.repair, on Tue, 5 Dec 2017 03:48:53 +0000 (UTC), harry   >> It really is a shame when college kids can't fix a scratchy sounding >> speaker. A speaker smarter than a snowflake. with a safe place.   >The whole family is girls.   Wait a second. The kid next door you're doing all this for is a girl.   Do we have another Roy Moore here?

micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Dec 06 12:00AM -0500 In alt.home.repair, on Tue, 05 Dec 2017 20:43:37 -0500, Clare Snyder >hiusband - a heavy truck mechanic. None of the others coulkd drive her >car (standard) and she could change a flat - they had to call road >service - - -   That's pitiful.   Two stories. Before cellphones: A girl I met at a lecture -- not attractive and I wasn't interested in her -- calls me on a Friday or Saturday to change her tire. I say, Can it wait until Sunday. Yes. I'm there, doing it and she's not watching. I say, Why don't you watch so you can do it yourself next time. "I'll call someone" "What if you're out in the country?" "I never go there". I finished the job and left and I hope she thought that was why I never called her. If she'd been cute, I still can't imagine spending my life with someone like that. (Plus she didn't seem very appreciative to let me work while she wasn't keeping me company, at least)     Shopping for a car a couple months ago, guy had a beaufitul red Mustang, special black trim, special power chip for ignition, car 12 years old but interior (leather), exterior, engine compartment like new. etc. Stick shift. One of his teenage sons was sort of trying to learn to drive it and the other wsn't even learning to drive! The normal thing to do woudl be to give the car to his son, but neither could handle it.

jurb6006@gmail.com: Dec 06 12:24AM -0800 If it is the speaker there is no way I would pay the dealer price for it. That is ridiculous. Almost anything you can get for about 20 % of that money would be an upgrade.

kludge@panix.com (Scott Dorsey): Dec 06 09:04AM -0500 >So, a 6x9" 20W $5 Parts Express speaker might or might not be as good as a >6x9" 20W $300 speaker at Toyota which itself might or might not be as good >as a 6x9" 20W $25 speaker at Crutchfields.   They're all dreadful. It doesn't matter which one you buy, it will be dreadful. So buy the cheapest one or the most convenient one and don't worry about it.   >tell, a priori, if the $5 speaker at Parts Express will be as good (or bad) >as the $25 speaker at Crutchfields?   >Is there any way for a consumer to make an intelligent speaker decision?   No, because it's basically not possible to get decent sound in a car anyway. And even if it were, it wouldn't be possible to do it with the typical full-range whizzer-cone speakers that we're talking about. So buy the cheapest ones you can get and it won't sound any worse than it did when the car was new. --scott   -- "C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

Peabody <waybackNO584SPAM44@yahoo.com>: Dec 05 05:44PM -0600 I have a Sharp Carousel countertop microwave oven, model R-303CW, vintage 2001 - barely broken in. It works fine, but the LCD display has been gradually getting dimmer. So I found the schematic:   archivos.diagramas.mx/otros/R303CW.pdf   and I took the cover off and looked around. It turns out that that control board and display are not readily accessible, and in any case it's all the smallest SMD stuff, so I figured my chances of actually repairing it weren't too good. And I put the cover back on.   However, that process produced a change in the display. It is now somewhat brighter when the door is closed and the oven isn't doing anything. But if I open the door, or start the oven cooking, the display goes dim.   The display appears to be backlit by an LED panel, shown in the schematic as four LEDs in series. From the symptoms, it seems that there's a power problem somewhere that I inadvertently partially fixed. So of course I will go back in and remake all the connectors, and will re-socket the fuses. But I wondered what else I should check for. In particular, do fuses increase in resistance as they age? I've heard that fuses age, but I don't know if that means they become more resistive, or simply become more fragile at the same resistance.   The other thing I need to check is the compartment lamp, which is ON when the display goes dim. Maybe its resistance is decreased. And that's the only thing that changes when I open the door - that lamp comes on.   Any suggestions for other things I should check?

dansabrservices@yahoo.com: Dec 05 03:55PM -0800 As with most displays, the likely cause is bad grounds. Check all of the solder joints at the display itself. Look specifically at the connections at each end of the display.   Keep us posted.   Dan

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Dec 05 04:09PM -0800 On Tuesday, 5 December 2017 23:44:16 UTC, Peabody wrote:     > The display appears to be backlit by an LED panel, shown in the schematic as > four LEDs in series. From the symptoms, it seems that there's a power > problem somewhere that I inadvertently partially fixed.   yes   > go back in and remake all the connectors, and will re-socket the fuses. But > I wondered what else I should check for. In particular, do fuses increase in > resistance as they age?   no     > The other thing I need to check is the compartment lamp, which is ON when the > display goes dim. Maybe its resistance is decreased. And that's the only > thing that changes when I open the door - that lamp comes on.   it isn't   > Any suggestions for other things I should check?   Most likely it's a bad connection somewhere. You could tap around with a plastic rod to see if you can locate it, but the capacitor that supplies the magnetron is filled with enough volts to fry a queue of circuit board tappers, and those volts are conducted about the place too.     NT

whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com>: Dec 05 05:55PM -0800 On Tuesday, December 5, 2017 at 3:44:16 PM UTC-8, Peabody wrote: > I have a Sharp Carousel countertop microwave oven, model R-303CW, vintage > 2001 - barely broken in. It works fine, but the LCD display has been > gradually getting dimmer. So I found the schematic:   Well, C1 and C2 are intended to keep the lamp voltage near-constant, I'd check those (or replace, they're inexpensive parts). You might also consider your AC socket, at least hold your hand on it to determine if it's getting warm (this has happened to me). Be safe, if you open up that socket (live wires even AFTER turning the breaker off is not unknown).

amdx <nojunk@knology.net>: Dec 05 03:35PM -0600 On 12/4/2017 4:29 AM, Pimpom wrote: > diodes but the 1N5822 has a published max leakage of 2mA (0.12mA > typical) at Vr(max) at 25°C, 20mA at 100°C. you   > What value of resistors do you suggest? Is my idea at all feasible?   Since you want an answer about function before ordering parts, Can you supply an external 15V to the driven circuit? Then put the best solution for the diode replacement you come up with and verify the switcher is functioning using an external load. A little convoluted but reasonable to save a month wait for a second order of parts. Mikek

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Dec 05 11:12AM -0800 On 2017/12/05 7:11 AM, bitrex wrote:   > <http://simonwinder.com/2015/05/how-to-read-old-eproms-with-the-arduino/>   > All you'd have to do is buy the parts and about 20 minutes of soldering, > then plug in and execute the code.   I suspect he would be nervous about building something like that where there exists the possibility of destroying an irreplaceable part. At least a commercial EPROM burner that can read 2532s is very unlikely to cause issues, a home-made one has that potential for folks that haven't done it before.   Another possible solution is for the OP to join one of the machinist forums and see if anyone else has a similar CNC lathe and has already backed up the EPROMs.   John :-#)#   -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3 (604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

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