- Need help INTERPRETING these test results police cruiser SAE J866a Chase Test - 13 Updates
- Interesting radio I found. - 10 Updates
- Computer mouse switch going bad - 2 Updates
| Clare Snyder <clare@snyder.on.ca>: Jan 15 09:58PM -0500 On Tue, 16 Jan 2018 02:10:29 -0000 (UTC), Mad Roger >You're one of those people, most likely (based on Occam's Razor deduction), >and that's fine. >You *think* you're intelligently choosing a brake pad, and that's fine too. And YOU think YOU are smart. (nobody else does - sorry to break your bubble) >a. If you're cost conscious, you buy the cheapest FF that fits. >b. If you're value conscious, you buy the mid FFs (with a small price bump) >c. If you're status conscious, you buy the high FFs (bigger price jump) and if you are SMART you buy the type of pad that matches yourdriving requirements - which for most commuters is a standard organic pad, for heavy duty use, a semi metallioc, and for high speed light duty, generally a ceramic. >I'm not like you. >I like to *understand* that which I buy. And yet you most certainly do NOT when it comes to brakes. You are totally clueless and uneducatable >line you wrote. >I like to make intelligent buying decisions. >You apparently don't care to - and that's fine. and you seem to be totally incapable of it. |
| Xeno <xenolith@optusnet.com.au>: Jan 16 02:20PM +1100 On 16/01/2018 1:48 PM, Fox's Mercantile wrote: > mechanic and tell him what I want. It gets done right. > All your blathering is like arguing with your doctor, "But I > read on Facebook (or WebMD)." May the Lord save us from those who *think* they know! -- Xeno |
| Xeno <xenolith@optusnet.com.au>: Jan 16 02:23PM +1100 On 16/01/2018 1:58 PM, Clare Snyder wrote: >> You *think* you're intelligently choosing a brake pad, and that's fine too. > And YOU think YOU are smart. (nobody else does - sorry to break your > bubble) I caught on to that very early in the piece. That's why I deduced that discussion with mad roger was not a fruitful use of my time. As you have discovered. >> I like to *understand* that which I buy. > And yet you most certainly do NOT when it comes to brakes. You are > totally clueless and uneducatable Amen to that! Just wants to argue the toss, that is all. >> I like to make intelligent buying decisions. >> You apparently don't care to - and that's fine. > and you seem to be totally incapable of it. He is. -- Xeno |
| Clare Snyder <clare@snyder.on.ca>: Jan 15 10:41PM -0500 On Tue, 16 Jan 2018 02:28:52 -0000 (UTC), Mad Roger >> leaving us with the more agressive ferrous materials. >Except that Axxis marketing told me, personally, that all these words are >marketing bullshit (he used nicer terms than that). from the PBR brake site : PBR Axxis Metal Master Brake Pads, Ultimate Brake Pads, and Deluxe Brake Pads Note: The FMP Group Australia Pty. Ltd., is the manufacturer of Axxis and PBR brand brake pads; these pads are identical. Axxis Ultimate Brake Pads Ultimate The PBR Axxis Ultimate brake pads feature a special Kevlar® and ceramic-strengthened formula with a high co-efficient of friction and excellent high temperature wear and fade resistance. Designed for ultra-high performance driving and hard-braking applications, PBR Axxis Ultimate pad users will benefit with extreme stopping power and high resistance to brake fade at high temperatures, meaning the decrease in friction over repeated heavy duty stops, as the temperature increases, is minimal. PBR Axxis Ultimate pads boast a maximum continuous working temperature of 550° C (1022° F degrees). Consistent throughout its operating temperature range, you'll get dependable, predictable stops time after time while maintaining a solid pedal feel. Axxis Metal Master Metal Master Metal Master: Non-asbestos, semi-metallic compound provides the highest fade resistance among leading semi-met brake pads. They deliver proven longer pad and rotor life, with low rotor scoring and quiet braking. •Designed for applications requiring the highest performance •Premium quality, non-asbestos, semi-metallic formula •Unique formula offers reduced brake dust, fade and squeal •Provides the ultimate stopping power under all conditions •Virtually eliminates squeal and dust •Improved cold effectiveness •Improved pad life Axxis Deluxe Deluxe Exclusive OE equivalent organic compound provides outstanding stopping power with very low fade. Extremely quiet with proven long pad and rotor life and low rotor scoring. Provides measurably longer life and has extreme resistance to heat while delivering consistent, smooth braking performance. •Formulated from the latest premium quality, organic materials •Low dust, low squeal •Delivers quality braking performance •Rotor friendly •Smooth stopping power •Low dust and squeal •Extended pad life Get yourself a set of PBR Axxis Ultimate, Metal Master, or Deluxe pads today! Brake pads! High Performance Brake Pads! Theres nothing better for braking performance than a good brake pad. So PBR makes 3 differentlines of brakes. One is sold as AXXIS Ultimate, oneas Axxis Metal Master, and one as Axxis Deluxe. (Also sold underthe PBR brand) 3 totally different pads for diufferent use - all spelled out on the PBR brake products web site. If you spoke to a PBR marketing person you spoke to an idiot who doesn't know their product line, and knows even less about brakes. What you got from HIM WAS marketing bullshit. >Do you think I don't call these people up when I have their numbers? Whoever you called gave you VERY bad information. >Hmmmmhmmmhmmm... this is interesting. I like it! If the test works, that's >a nice test. I'm gonna have to bring a magnet with me to the web when I >look them up online! :) And you are still stupid enough to think you have to buy online -- I just cannot figure you idiots out. >Seriously though, it's nice if the pad is in your hands. I'll bring a >magnet with me if I end up buying them from the parts store. And I can test >the old shoes and pads when I take them off. But metallics are not NECESSARILLY magnetic - because they can be copper or brass - and even ceramics can have some metal in them - as can some organics. You just DON"T GET IT. >> different than on your Dodge or GM, or Toyota. >The Ameca engineer talked about 1st tier but he wouldn't tell me which >companies that is, so I don't know what you know. Get used to it. >He did say that aftermarket makes only a handful of formulations that they >fit to all cars. Which is pure bull;shit when talking about tiuer one aftermarket suppliers (which are also OEM suppliers in most cases) >It's just not. >And you seem to buy on a number line, like most people, and that's fine, >for you. I like to buy by specs, and they just don't exist. I do NOT buy on a "number line" - I buy by spec. I buy organic, semi metallic, or ceramic depending on what brake characteristics I need and what I'm willing to pay. >SO I'm fucked. You've done it to yourself. >fits. In the case of the Toyota drums, the only hardware needed for sure is >the U clip which has to be bent. The OE pads come also with circular >retainers. You keep going between pads and shoes. There is so much difference - hardly oranges to oranges - barely apples to oranges - more like rutabagas to apples. >You missed what I said, or I didn't say it right. >Specifications are not bullshit. >Marketing spin is bullshit. ANd I don't look at "marketing spin" I look at "real" specifications. What KIND of brake material is it? Knowing the KIND of material I can pretty accurately deduce the basic qualities of the brake product - and knowing the manufacturer AND the composition, I can make a pretty good deduction as to quality and suitability for my purpose. Without any "number line" or "friction rating" >I don't have any paranoia. You *think* I do, and that's fine. >But I don't. >I just don't trust marketing as much as you seem to trust them. And where do you get the idea I trust "marketing"????? >immense time to get the formulation right. So that would say that, if you >like what the OEMs did for you, that you should pay the $157 for OEM FF >shoes and not the $20 for aftermarket FF shoes. No, for the Toyota you buy Akebono brake shoes - the aftermarket supplier that also produces the OEM brakes for a large percentage of Toyota vehicles (Toyota generally "dual sources" all major parts that the source from outside, like brakes, shoicks, lenses, bulbs, and spark plugs. If one supplier has a problem they cut them off until the problem is solved. (for spark plugs it was always either Nipon Denso or NGK,, foir many parts like AC it was Aisin or Denso. The MAJOR Tier one aftermarket suppliers are also major OEM suppliers. TRW, Walker,Monroe, Delphi, and a host of other manufacturers design and build all kinds of parts for the OEM market - as well as the aftermarket. >> etc. These are the major suppliers to BOTH the OEM and the aftermarket >> and OEM REplacement . >In the case of Toyota, it's Nisshinbo Automotive Manufacturing, Inc. That will be ONE of their brake suppliers. >> from a supplier like NAPA i KNOW what I am getting. >I've had Jurid, Textar, Akebono, and PBR on my car. >They're all the same to me. Then what are yopu fussing about???????? >but the same in a vacuum. We all know that. >My only point there was that intuition is almost always wrong. >Anyone who trust their intuition, is almost always wrong. Not if their "intuition" is "educated" >Don't even get me started on high-octane claims in commercials....... ANd you know NOTHING about octane and detonation - I'd be willing to bet significantly on that one. (Few people do - the myths on that subject are - well - "mythical". Don't get started on that one unless you want to get TOTALLY buried...... >> speeds under normal conditions. - For a while. >Yup. >That's the only logical conclusion anyone can make using Occam's Razor. Why use Ocam's razor - don't you have your own???? Seriously - you are making more assumtions than I am - therefore the chances of your conclusions being correct are significantly less than mine. Not quite sure you fully understand "Ockham's Razor" either (also known as Occams razor - not Ocams) - a theory first postulated by a 14th century mathemetician and Franciscan Friar by the name of William of Ockham as part of his "unified field theory" His principal is simply "Entities should not be multiplied unnecessarily." It has been expanded on by many others includingsuch natables as Einstein Like any sharp instrument -Ockhams razor should not be weilded blindly - - - - |
| Clare Snyder <clare@snyder.on.ca>: Jan 15 11:11PM -0500 On Tue, 16 Jan 2018 02:09:50 +0000 (UTC), Mad Roger >intelligent choice between them, other than to know if they're the same or >not, and to know who made them, and to know what their cold and hot >friction coefficients are. If I know my application jolly right I can >Nobody complained about fade in that one report we have, did they? >I don't think we have any better "fade" test than the Chase value for hot >friction (which was E or F depending on the pads tested). You obviously did not read and absorb the details of the michigan test. All the brake fade data is clearly there if you know how to read the report. >So, while fade is important - it's a useless criteria since we have no way >of knowing the fade. i CAN TELL YOU which brake pad is going to fade the worst, just knowing the COMPOSITION of the pad - organic, semi-metallic, or ceramic - particularly between products from the same manufacturer. WHos ceramic is beter than whos is a different story - -0 - >I don't disagree with you that two pads can be vastly different, but you >have no way of knowing anything other than their tested friction, their >manufacturer, and whether two pads are exactly the same material. I can know who made them and what market theyn are aimed at - which gives me a lot more information than their 2 letter friction rating. >That's all you've got since brands are almost meaningless (e.g., PBR, Axxis >and Metalmasters are the same company) and semi-metallic/metalic/ceramic >marketing is even more meaningless. You are a total MORON AXXIS and PBR ARE the same company, but a PBR or AXXIS Metalmaster is NOT the same as a PBR or AXXIS Delux or Advanced Ceramic - but PBR/AXXIS has more marketing BS than many companies. >Let's just agree to disagree since you don't seem to realize what I know >from talking to the Axxis marketing guy that the word 'ceramic' is a >bullshit marketing term. well, I know from dealing with brake application engineers and my studies that "marketing guys" are generally like a dirty diaper. >Do you think I don't call these marketing guys up? >Do I seem like someone who doesn't ask pointed questions? You seam like someone who doesan't know the questions to ask, doesn't know when he's being snowed, and is so obvious that the marketing guys know they can snow you and you won't know the difference. When you need technical information you don't ask marketing - you ask engineering - and you don't go in like a smartass - they can see right through you. >Ceramic is complete and total marketing bullshit. >The marketing guy told me himself. The marketing guy doesn't know shit from shinola >> organic pad - and you can be pretty well assured you will not get a >> $20 ceramic pad unless Rock Auto has something on clearout. >Let's agree to disagree. I'll agree to allow you to remain eternally clueless since you are totally unteachable. >You think price has some impact on performance. >I will prove to you that I can show exact same products with different >branding but the exact same price. Just like a dirty diaper. AXXIS delux pads are the same as PBR delux pads, but are NOT the same as AXXIS or PBR Metalmasters - and "Metalmaster" is not a company or resller - it is a "model" or "type" iof pad marketted by AXXIS , a devision of PBR PLC in Australia. >Everyone loves a number-line decision, whether it's good/better/best of >metallic/semi-metallic/ceramic or $10/$20/$30 or 3-year/4-year-/5-year >warranty, but none of that indicates a better or worse object. A warranty is an insurance policy - not an indicator of quality. How else do you explain a 10year warranty on the shittiest cars to come out of Japan - the MisuShitty. They can't sell their crap without a 10year warranty - and when the warranty is expired you can't sell one - period. >than who made the pad, the code for the exact formulation, and the >friction. >Everything else is bullshit. Yad yada yada--------- >If you truly know the "hardness", then of course it matters. >But you have no way of knowing the hardness. >Do you? Sure I do >The Ameca engineer already explained the burnished pads that the Michegan >study used where he said it was to get rid of the volatile gases that come >out of the first few heat cycles. Well, he was WRONG. >> braking - either a "thump" or a "skip" on the next brake application. >NEVER, and I mean NEVER leave your foot on the pedal after a hard stop! >Everyone knows this, so I know you know this. Most certainly NOT everybody knows it. >thousand miles as that ped deposition collects more pad over time. >I never understood why, but once a pad print, always a pad print. >And it only gets worse. Not neccesarily - If caught on time it is almost always reversible >> sometimes "real" "warped rotor". >Yes. But. I have no good way of knowing a quality pad from a not quality >pad. So it's moot. You are a thickskulled and stubborn person - totally unteachable >Thinking is dangerous. >Having someone else do all that for you, is dangerous. >The mechanic doesn't give a shit about you or your brake pads. WRONG - his livelihhod depends on it >All the mechanic cares about is your money, and getting as much of that as >possible, in the least time possible, so he'll skip steps like you can't >believe. Wrong. As a professional mechanic of long standing, with an EXCELLENT reputation, I take that as a total affrront >I'm on car forums where there are complaints galore about mechanics >skipping half the steps in anything because they don't give a shit about >anything but money. I've seen the same forums - and most of the compainers are just as dumb as you are. >The only way to do it right is to do it yourself, is my motto. You are free to do it yourself on your own car - although I don't plan on being anywhere near you - but you should NOT be doing repairs on other peoples vehicles - you are untrained, unauthorized, and uninsured. Anyone letting you work on their vehicles should be made aware of that, and the dangers implied. Ignorance is no excuse. >that I'm trying to make an intelligent decision on which brake shoes to >buy, and that I probably know them as well as any mechanic who *thinks* he >knows them - but he doesn't - because he can't. Well, you would be wrong. >Nobody can but the guy who submitted them for their Chase test. Wrong again. PLONK |
| Terry Schwartz <tschw10117@aol.com>: Jan 16 05:05AM -0800 Wow -- you sure know a lot about me based on my one line response. You must believe you are a frickin' genius. THAT is so sad. But you are right on one point. You're not like me. I'm so glad. |
| "pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Jan 16 05:32AM -0800 On Tuesday, January 16, 2018 at 8:05:42 AM UTC-5, Terry Schwartz wrote: > You must believe you are a frickin' genius. THAT is so sad. > But you are right on one point. You're not like me. > I'm so glad. Consider the analogy of mud-wrestling with a pig. Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA |
| Mad Roger <rogermadd@yahoo.com>: Jan 16 02:35PM On Tue, 16 Jan 2018 05:05:37 -0800 (PST), Terry Schwartz wrote: > You must believe you are a frickin' genius. THAT is so sad. > But you are right on one point. You're not like me. > I'm so glad. What I know is that you've added zero on-topic technical value. What I also know is that you *can't* add on-topic technical value. Just watch. |
| Mad Roger <rogermadd@yahoo.com>: Jan 16 02:35PM On Tue, 16 Jan 2018 05:32:53 -0800 (PST), > Consider the analogy of mud-wrestling with a pig. It's more of an analogy of asking a technical question which is beyond the scope of the trolls here such as *Xeno the troll*, and *Terry Schwartz*. They *can't* possibly add on-topic technical value ... ... and yet they feel a magnetic attraction that is so strong ... ... ... they feel they must troll the thread ... Ignorant trolls *can't* possibly add any value to any technical thread. Just watch what they post. |
| Mad Roger <rogermadd@yahoo.com>: Jan 16 02:38PM On Mon, 15 Jan 2018 16:31:56 -0500, Clare Snyder wrote: > a whole lot more!!!!!!!!!!! I'm reading them as soon as I post this to let you know that... Thanks for always posting on-topic technical value. |
| Terry Schwartz <tschw10117@aol.com>: Jan 16 07:00AM -0800 "On topic" would be electronics related. I've spent a lifetime in electronics. That is a field in which I do have technical expertise. Brakes are NOT on topic. Period. Perhaps you will find more willing foil in another group. I've also spent 30+ years of my career engineering things with engines, wheels (2, 3, and 4), brakes, so yes, I have expertise in all that as well. Vehicles that go 4 mph and vehicles that go 140 mph. But it's fun watching you make an ass of yourself. So yes, I am drawn to this thread, it's like watching a train wreck or a plane crash. I'm done engaging you, feel free to have the last snipe, as you seem to need to do. It's a classic sign of a petty, insecure mind. |
| Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Jan 16 09:00AM -0600 On 1/16/18 8:35 AM, Mad Roger wrote: > What I know is that you've added zero on-topic technical value. > What I also know is that you*can't* add on-topic technical value. > Just watch. Says he who does nothing but post off topic shit endlessly -- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com |
| "pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Jan 16 07:03AM -0800 On Tuesday, January 16, 2018 at 9:35:55 AM UTC-5, Mad Roger wrote: Please note the on-topic, technical edits. Done for accuracy. > What I know is that -I-'ve added zero on-topic technical value. > What I also know is that -I- *can't* add on-topic technical value. > Just watch. Yes, we have. And, so sorry Jimmy, despite all the manure you have spread, there is no pony. Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA The Pony Joke. "The joke concerns twin boys of five or six. Worried that the boys had developed extreme personalities – one was a total pessimist, the other a total optimist – their parents took them to a psychiatrist." "First the psychiatrist treated the pessimist. Trying to brighten his outlook, the psychiatrist took him to a room piled to the ceiling with brand-new toys. But instead of yelping with delight, the little boy burst into tears. 'What's the matter?' the psychiatrist asked, baffled. 'Don't you want to play with any of the toys?' 'Yes,' the little boy bawled, 'but if I did I'd only break them.'" "Next the psychiatrist treated the optimist. Trying to dampen his out look, the psychiatrist took him to a room piled to the ceiling with horse manure. But instead of wrinkling his nose in disgust, the optimist emitted just the yelp of delight the psychiatrist had been hoping to hear from his brother, the pessimist. Then he clambered to the top of the pile, dropped to his knees, and began gleefully digging out scoop after scoop with his bare hands. 'What do you think you're doing?' the psychiatrist asked, just as baffled by the optimist as he had been by the pessimist. 'With all this manure,' the little boy replied, beaming, 'there must be a pony in here somewhere!'" |
| oldschool@tubes.com: Jan 15 09:17PM -0600 www.qfxusa.com/Pdf/R-18US.pdf I was at a local Salvation Army store and found this radio. QuantumFX Model: R-18US. AM/FM/SW1-SW7 RADIO WITH USB/SD BUILT-IN The USB flash drive and SD card ports play MP3 music. Everything works except the telescoping antenna is broken off (that's easy to fix, as soon as I find one). But I'm a little confused. In the battery compartment it says to use UM1 1.5v. The PDF file (above) says rechargable batteries. And there is a plug for a wall wart listed at 6V on the radio. In the PDF file it also says D cells. I dont do much with rechargable batteries. Are these UM1 the D cell equivalant rechargables? Just curious, I only intend to run it from the built in AC cord. This radio was made in 2012 (sticker inside battery compartment). This is the first portable radio I have ever seen that has a USB and SD card for MP3 music, and with 7 shortwave bands plus AM and FM it does a lot. Well worth the $5 I paid. One other thing, there is a sticker on it that says it has 1000 watts P.M.P.O HQ sound system. YEA RIGHT..... 1000W from a 5" mono speaker powered by 4 D cells. Talk about bullshit advertising.... Has anyone ever heard of a P.M.P.O power rating? Either way, for mono, it has decent sound, which may output 5 watts maximum.... I bet this was a fairly costly radio when it was new.... Back to looking for a schematic for it. I dont really need one, I just like to have them for everything I own. So far no luck finding one. |
| Rheilly Phoull <froggins@iinet.net.au>: Jan 16 12:55PM +0800 > I bet this was a fairly costly radio when it was new.... > Back to looking for a schematic for it. I dont really need one, I just > like to have them for everything I own. So far no luck finding one. PMPO, which stands for Peak Music Power Output or Peak momentary performance output, is a much more dubious figure of merit, of interest more to advertising copy-writers than to consumers. It was thought up for those who are impressed by big numbers when buying audio gear. (Been around for years, google not working for you ??) |
| philo <philo@privacy.net>: Jan 15 11:08PM -0600 > 1.5v. The PDF file (above) says rechargable batteries. And there is a > plug for a wall wart listed at 6V on the radio. > In the PDF file it also says D cells. Note: The rechargeable batteries are only 1.2volts vs 1.5 for an alkaline I would advise against |
| Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Jan 15 11:14PM -0600 > I was at a local Salvation Army store and found this radio. > QuantumFX > Model: R-18US. AM/FM/SW1-SW7 RADIO WITH USB/SD BUILT-IN You should have spent your money on a PS/2 mouse. It's no longer sold on Amazon and the reviews say it's crap. It's also 4-5 years old. And at an original price of probably under $15 you can guess where it was made. What I don't understand, is considering how much you complain about Chinese made anything being "absolute shit"is that you keep buying it. Then wasting our time with it. -- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com |
| oldschool@tubes.com: Jan 16 12:28AM -0600 >> In the PDF file it also says D cells. >Note: The rechargeable batteries are only 1.2volts vs 1.5 for an >alkaline I would advise against That's right, I remember that now. Rechargable batteries are always 1.2 volts rather than 1.5 in alkaline or carbon zinc types. |
| bitrex <bitrex@de.lete.earthlink.net>: Jan 16 08:23AM -0500 > This is the first portable radio I have ever seen that has a USB and SD > card for MP3 music, and with 7 shortwave bands plus AM and FM it does a > lot. Well worth the $5 I paid. The price is right but...jeez, it's got a face only a mother could love. The enclosure design and front panel would've looked outdated in 1988. |
| Terry Schwartz <tschw10117@aol.com>: Jan 16 05:52AM -0800 Looks like throw-away Chinese junk. I see the sales sheet says built in condenser mic... any evidence of a recording function? Also sports CFD lighting. What the hell is CFD? Do the controls feel as shitty as I imagine they must? Does it - or does it not -- have a built in rechargeable battery? If it really weighs 5 lbs it just might. My guess is it's worth the $1 you paid for it. Oh wait... Don't waste another dime on an antenna. Use that "easy to hold" strap to launch it into the nearest dumpster. |
| "pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Jan 16 05:57AM -0800 A few things: a) UM-1 is the Pacific Rim designation for a D-cell. Whether one-time or rechargeable. It relates to the physical size of the battery. Not to worry about 1.2 vs. 1.5 or 1.56 V. The circuitry will handle it. Unless there is a switch inside the battery compartment (as with many Grundig & some Siemens radios), ignore the distinction. b) P.M.P.O is a measure of what happens when you short-circuit the entire battery capacity added to whatever charge is in whichever capacitors directly into the speaker, for about one millisecond. It is an impressive, but entirely meaningless number. c) Essentially, this is an analog radio-in-a-chip, and for all that will pick up strong SW stations, and do otherwise OK on AM & FM. But it will not stand up to any comparison with a purpose-built SW radio of the same size and band-spread. Kinda-sorta like comparing a Mini to a Yugo. About the same size, four wheels, steering wheel, doors, seats, after which the resemblance stops. I believe these retailed originally around $20 for about a week, then rapidly were 'remaindered' for prices all over the map. I have a very small Chinese 9-band radio https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/81d3GexgLjL._SL1500_.jpg That I snagged at Kutztown for $1. The two D (!) cells inside were worth more than the radio. It plays OK, but the 7-band radio I snagged a day later for $10 https://www.radiomuseum.org/r/siemens_rk_747rk74.html blew it away. Today, it resides on the bench primarily to pick up LO Signals when I am troubleshooting. Not a bad find if you are into that kind of stuff - and it should last for years. But, it is Chinese. Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA |
| Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Jan 16 08:07AM -0600 > Kinda-sorta like comparing a Mini to a Yugo. More like comparing a Mini to a Trabant. > Not a bad find if you are into that kind of stuff - > and it should last for years. But, it is Chinese. Except for the review that said it lasted a month. -- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com |
| "pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Jan 16 06:16AM -0800 On Tuesday, January 16, 2018 at 9:07:57 AM UTC-5, Fox's Mercantile wrote: > Except for the review that said it lasted a month. As with much Chinese Junque, what comes down the line varies much as do apples from a tree. If it has made it this far, it is one of the very few that was worm-free. Writing for myself, I would rather have the Trabant. That they had two-cylinder, two-stroke engines and very basic transmissions, and fiber-board bodies is, perhaps, why they actually did last for years, and years. With the Yugo, it was a fast race between rust, transmission failure, engine bearings.... Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA |
| The Real Bev <bashley101@gmail.com>: Jan 15 08:35PM -0800 On 01/15/2018 03:42 PM, Ralph Mowery wrote: >> Remind me to NOT let you work on any of my things. > For us older people, we know the first thing one does is to hit the > device that is causing the problem. Surprised he didn't try that sooner. Experience is SO important! -- Cheers, Bev The volume of a pizza of thickness 'a' and radius 'z' is given by pi*z*z*a |
| oldschool@tubes.com: Jan 16 12:26AM -0600 On Mon, 15 Jan 2018 18:42:13 -0500, Ralph Mowery >> Remind me to NOT let you work on any of my things. >For us older people, we know the first thing one does is to hit the >device that is causing the problem. It's usually more or less a last resort for me. I did all the cleaning and stuff first. I'd fix this mouse if I could do it for a buck or two, but not more than that, because there are plenty of cheap used mice at second hand stores, rummage sales, and so on. The only problem is that now when I need it, I have not found one yet. Hitting it was a last resort. If I destroyed it, so be it.... Most of the time hitting an object does break it, but this time I lucked out and made it work again. I did however use an insulated handle to make the blow less damaging, yet still effective. It worked this time. At least so far. I wont expect it to still eb working in a few weeks from now, but by then, I'll find another mouse or have my adaptor so I can use a USB mouse on my PS/2 plug. |
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