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"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Jan 17 07:33AM -0800 Our office will be purchasing an AED shortly. We are a multiple medical practice covering four states, and so have a long-term relationship with McKesson. Meaning I can get all the advice I want from their sales department, and that we have access to all brands.   Question: Has anyone *HERE* ever had the need to use such a device, service such a device or have any experience-based suggestions? A little bit of real-world experience might be useful.   Thanks in advance!     Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

dansabrservices@yahoo.com: Jan 17 07:43AM -0800 > Thanks in advance!   > Peter Wieck > Melrose Park, PA   AEDs by their nature are designed to be easy to use. As an EMT, I have used these many times. Just to let you know... In real life, these RARELY shock anyone. Unlike TV, AEDs DO NOT shock a flatline (asystole). An AED will only shock someone if Ventricular Fibrulation (V-fib).   As far as brands go, I have used LIFEPACK and Philips either of which are good manufacturers and will work as designed.   The Philips has a key to use for pediatric patients where many others use different pad sets. The choice is up to you. Pick one that seems the easiest to use for you. All AEDs that I have seen over the years actually walk you through the process and provide clear diagrams for pad placement.   If you ever need to use one, listen to the prompts and follow them to the letter. Before you push the "deliver" or "shock" button (label will be different for each machine), be sure that NO-ONE is touching the patient. If they are they WILL get shocked and will likely become another patient.   Dan   Side note: Just so that people understand, contrary to popular belief, an AED does NOT "start" the heart. In reality it stops the heart for a second. Think of this as trying to get the attention of an out of control teenager... sometimes a good smack on the back of the head is required to get their attention. This is essentially what the AED does. It shocks the heart which stops for a beat before resetting and (hopefully) working normally.   I hope this helps.

"malua mada!" <fritzo2ster@gmail.com>: Jan 16 04:36PM -0800 LG flatron monitor with touch sensor power switch... won't turn on. Power supply puts out 5VDC OK. The power -on/off sub board was very dirty. The sensor seems to consist of a odd shaped piece of foam sandwiched in a fold of conductive fabric . I am looking for a way to fake/ hack the logic of the touch sensor or better still add a physical on/off switch. From motherboard I get 5VDC, GND, Key0, Key1, BL0, BL1. all but the BL0 and BL1 are passed on to a five button sub-board which makes me think these two are power-on-off related. THere is a six legged IC "S821"and a 3 legged "A0" (SMT= flatfoot devices all) that I associate with the sensing/power part, plus four LEDs for looks, with four resistors. Any ideas of what kind of tickling could excite this thing?

whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com>: Jan 16 09:32PM -0800 On Tuesday, January 16, 2018 at 4:36:40 PM UTC-8, malua mada! wrote: > LG flatron monitor with touch sensor power switch... won't turn on. > Power supply puts out 5VDC OK.   but the LED status doesn't change when you push the button? Probably there's a trickle power supply and a bigger power supply that runs backlights and MCU, and anything that inhibits the bigger power supply looks like 'dead ON/OFF switch'.   Shorted rectifiers and burst capacitors, maybe fuses, are the first things to hunt for. Low-current finger-sensing gizmo is probably an innocent bystander.

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Jan 16 08:52AM -0800 On Monday, 15 January 2018 14:19:46 UTC, Mad Roger wrote:   > So, I very belatedly am getting the lesson that, in terms of stopping a > typical passenger vehicle, all pads sold are just about the same in terms > of performance.   not really. But cars generally seem to deal with it ok. Ultimately it comes down to enough force to create enough friction, and almost any friction material can do that.     > what the science tells us it is. The rest is just marketing bullshit and > fear mongering from the butt-dynos that think if they paid $157 for a pad, > then it must be better than if they paid $20 for the same pad.   I certainly bought bad pads in about 2000. The ones from the scrapyard OTOH I had no problem with. Those I got to see after they'd been used a bit, so I knew they weren't disintegrating, let alone badly, or oily.   You criticised buying pads off scrap vehicles before, but truth is every time you buy a used car you're getting used brake pads. It's not a problem really.     NT

Mad Roger <rogermadd@yahoo.com>: Jan 16 05:25PM On Tue, 16 Jan 2018 08:45:56 -0800 (PST),   >> I think price is not an indication of anything other than what the >> marketing can make people pay. It's certainly not an indication of quality.   > that's true now   Yup. Basic Economics 101. Price is only a function of demand.   Price is never directly related to quality. Price is only a function of demand.   Demand is a function of lots of complex variables, which is why they invented Marketing (to greatly influence the demand). >> I'm not sure what you mean by "scrapyards". To me, that means a junk yard, >> which contains dead cars.   > same here   I can't imagine buying used brake shoes or pads off a scrapped car. I just can't.   >> Are you talking about *used* brake pads or *new* brake pads?   > they're on cars, so used.'   Whoever proposes to buy brake pads and shoes off of junked cars is fine with his logic, but he doesn't need to repeat it since it's not something most of us would do.   I can see buying some parts at a scrap yard (e.g., a door or a fender), but I just can't see buying a brake pad or shoe off a scrapped car.   How do you even do that? Do you walk around the junk yard to look for your exact year, make and model and then pull the wheels and then pull the pads?   That's a lot of work, if you even find the right make and model, and then if you can get to it (since they pile these things five cars high sometimes) and if you can get the rusted lug bolts and brake drums off and then you have to disassemble the brakes.   Seems like a *lot* of work for a brake shoe that will be "iffy" because you have no way of knowing their condition ahead of time.   Or, maybe the junk yard does that for you, but then you are just staring at a pile of brake shoes on the wall, which maybe, if you're lucky, have accurate designations for the make and model of the vehicle they came off of.   I guess if you bring your old shoes with you, you can match them, but that means your car is on blocks the whole time you do this, so you have to have a second vehicle to do it.   I just don't see *how* it's practicable. Do you?

Mad Roger <rogermadd@yahoo.com>: Jan 16 05:26PM On Tue, 16 Jan 2018 08:45:56 -0800 (PST),   >> I think price is not an indication of anything other than what the >> marketing can make people pay. It's certainly not an indication of quality.   > that's true now   Yup. Basic Economics 101. Price is only a function of demand.   Price is never directly related to quality. Price is only a function of demand.   Demand is a function of lots of complex variables, which is why they invented Marketing (to greatly influence the demand). >> I'm not sure what you mean by "scrapyards". To me, that means a junk yard, >> which contains dead cars.   > same here   I can't imagine buying used brake shoes or pads off a scrapped car. I just can't.   >> Are you talking about *used* brake pads or *new* brake pads?   > they're on cars, so used.'   Whoever proposes to buy brake pads and shoes off of junked cars is fine with his logic, but he doesn't need to repeat it since it's not something most of us would do.   I can see buying some parts at a scrap yard (e.g., a door or a fender), but I just can't see buying a brake pad or shoe off a scrapped car.   How do you even do that? Do you walk around the junk yard to look for your exact year, make and model and then pull the wheels and then pull the pads?   That's a lot of work, if you even find the right make and model, and then if you can get to it (since they pile these things five cars high sometimes) and if you can get the rusted lug bolts and brake drums off and then you have to disassemble the brakes.   Seems like a *lot* of work for a brake shoe that will be "iffy" because you have no way of knowing their condition ahead of time.   Or, maybe the junk yard does that for you, but then you are just staring at a pile of brake shoes on the wall, which maybe, if you're lucky, have accurate designations for the make and model of the vehicle they came off of.   I guess if you bring your old shoes with you, you can match them, but that means your car is on blocks the whole time you do this, so you have to have a second vehicle to do it.   I just don't see *how* it's practicable. Do you?

Mad Roger <rogermadd@yahoo.com>: Jan 16 06:15PM On Tue, 16 Jan 2018 08:52:07 -0800 (PST),   > not really. But cars generally seem to deal with it ok. > Ultimately it comes down to enough force to create enough > friction, and almost any friction material can do that.   I agree with your logical thought process in that the only scientific summary that makes logical sense is that all pads work just fine in passenger vehicles, with the main difference being the foot pounds of torque applied to the brake pedal to obtain the desired deceleration rate.   Hence, any pad is fine, EE or FF or GG, for stopping the vehicle.   > I certainly bought bad pads in about 2000. I go though a set of front pads once every couple of years, never more than two years on my own vehicle, but on this vehicle, it took 20 years to go through one set of rear shoes.   > The ones from the scrapyard OTOH I had no problem with.   The problem isn't the scrapyard per se. The problem is getting the *right* pads at the scrapyard. That can't be easy (see my other post on how that's done).   > Those I got to see after they'd been used a bit, so I knew they > weren't disintegrating, let alone badly, or oily.   What does that even mean?   > You criticised buying pads off scrap vehicles before, but truth > is every time you buy a used car you're getting used brake pads. > It's not a problem really.   I don't at all disagree with your apropos logic that every time you buy a used car you get used pads, but, you can assume (logically) that the pads fit.   I've been to junk yards where there literally are junked cars piled four and five cars high outdoors, where you walk the yard looking for the fender or mirror that you want.   To look for brake pads would be an order of magnitude harder because you can't see the brake pad until you find a similar vehicle make model and year, you climb up to the top car, you remove the wheels, you pull the rusty drums or calipers off, and then, only then, do you get any chance to see the condition of the brake pads and shoes.   Or, if the scrapyard does all that for you, and has placed a ton of brake shoes on the shelves, you can pick among them for the right size and shape, but that process comes with the problem that you have to have a comparison pad and shoe in your hands, which means your car is up on blocks and you're borrowing someone else's car.   If you can read the AMECA edge code, you have a chance at getting the right shoe or pad, but it sure does seem like a lot of effort when an FF pad or shoe is about $20 a set of four at Rock Auto.   Did I surmise the scrap yard process incorrectly? If so, how would you correct that process of *selecting* the right pads?

Mad Roger <rogermadd@yahoo.com>: Jan 16 06:16PM On Tue, 16 Jan 2018 07:00:25 -0800 (PST), Terry Schwartz wrote:   > "On topic" would be electronics related.   Fair enough. You passed the test of posting an on-topic post.   I understand your logic (I was hoping Jeff Liebermann would answer).   Since your logic is unassailable...   I will *remove* s.e.r from all my responses from now moving forward.

Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Jan 16 12:18PM -0600 On 1/16/18 12:16 PM, Mad Roger wrote: > I will *remove* s.e.r from all my responses from now moving forward.   Lucky us.     -- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Jan 16 10:25AM -0800 On Tuesday, January 16, 2018 at 1:16:38 PM UTC-5, Mad Roger wrote:     > Since your logic is unassailable...   > I will *remove* s.e.r from all my responses from now moving forward.   But, of course, not from the initial blathering, most likely. This accretion of bad smells needs the validation.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Jan 16 12:35PM -0800 On Monday, 15 January 2018 20:34:21 UTC, Clare Snyder wrote:   > You "only" get what you pay for - and then only if you are both lucky > and astute. You SELDOM get more than what you pay for   > You can take THAT to the bank.   +1. Though even then there can be exceptions on occasion.       > Because someone was unloading something they didn't need, at a price > to get it off their shelves - and your requirements were not severe > enough to require anything better.   no-one here buys brakes off a scrapped car from scrapyards, so they had about zero market value. They were decent enough though. There was no reason to think they were any worse than the array of stuff sold new, and being for back brakes it wasn't a demanding app.   But my later experience with disintegrating pads suggests that getting brake shoes/pads this way may actually be safer.     > my money's worth.   > In both cases It was because I new the "value" of what I was buying > better than both the seller and other potential buyers.   I like those kind of deals. Sometimes I get them.     > >> No-one here wants to buy brake parts from scrapyards, even though > >> they're the same parts you get in the shops.   > No they are not   how could they possibly not be? The new brakes sold end up on scrap cars     > - and in MANY places it is illegal to sell used brake > parts and used exhaust/emission parts.   thank god not here   > going to get new parts??????? On a Sunday afternoon half way between > Choima and Macha - (look it up on Google Earth - and keep in mind > this was 44 years ago - - - - .   I can't help thinking folk are deriving a false sense of security from buying new. The only totally unsatisfactory brake pads I've had were brand new from a major UK chain. If I'd seen those in a scrapyard I'd have known not to touch them. New one can't tell that they'll disintegrate in use.       > Obviously not sufficientfor a 3 ton vehicle going 100MPH - and > definitely not as good after a long downhill stop - -- but likely, at > low speeds - al ot better than you suspect!!!   I presume the main issues with oak are 1. compressibility, meaning it requires more force x distance to get it to do the job 2. charring along with low thermal conduction, meaning high speed stops are no-go, or would that be go and keep going. If heated to such a point the wear would also be excessive. 3. flammability   The solution? More contact area :)     > their destructive effect on rims - some better for chromed rims, and > others for Alloy rims - some working better for side-pull, and others > for center pull (different amounts of pressure available)   I never knew that.     NT

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Jan 16 05:25PM -0800 On Tuesday, 16 January 2018 17:25:40 UTC, Mad Roger wrote:   > Yup. Basic Economics 101. Price is only a function of demand.   > Price is never directly related to quality. > Price is only a function of demand.   even that's wrong.   > I just can't see buying a brake pad or shoe off a scrapped car.   > How do you even do that? Do you walk around the junk yard to look for your > exact year, make and model and then pull the wheels and then pull the pads?   why would you need the same year car? The same brake assembly was used across the body style & engine/trim option range for years   > That's a lot of work, if you even find the right make and model,   no work at all. 'I'm looking for abc from an xyz. We got those here, here & here.'   > and then > if you can get to it (since they pile these things five cars high > sometimes)   not all are.   > and if you can get the rusted lug bolts and brake drums off and   you're not much of a mechanic if you can't get brake drums off   > then you have to disassemble the brakes.   well, remove the shoes anyway, a trivial exercise   > Seems like a *lot* of work   maybe 5-10 minutes versus 5 buying new off the shelf. Since I was also there to buy another entire wheel/brake assembly it saved time rather than adding it.     > for a brake shoe that will be "iffy" because you > have no way of knowing their condition ahead of time.   total rubbish.     > I just don't see *how* it's practicable.   so I see   > Do you?   Sure, I've done cars up before. I see your attitude a lot, and find it fundamentally silly. Sorry but I do.     NT

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Jan 16 05:57PM -0800 On Tuesday, 16 January 2018 18:16:00 UTC, Mad Roger wrote: > passenger vehicles, with the main difference being the foot pounds of > torque applied to the brake pedal to obtain the desired deceleration rate.   > Hence, any pad is fine, EE or FF or GG, for stopping the vehicle.   With respect we know that all pads or shoes don't work fine, and I've never claimed they do. If your unfamiliar with brake failure on modern cars due to the driver using them more & harder than design specs then maybe brake work is not for you. It's precisely why pursuit vehicles have better brakes.   Driving down a mountainside in one history piece I had, well aware of the tendency for brakes to fail in that scenario. Suffice it to say I had to stop when they were getting close to that point. Had I been Jo Average with no clue about brake fade there would have been a big mess. The first time I encountered this I discovered that the degree of fade was far worse than I'd expected, braking effect can go from 100% to nothing repeatedly. The only thing preventing carnage is the nut behind the wheel.       > The problem isn't the scrapyard per se. > The problem is getting the *right* pads at the scrapyard. > That can't be easy (see my other post on how that's done).   it's almost trivial     > I don't at all disagree with your apropos logic that every time you buy a > used car you get used pads, but, you can assume (logically) that the pads > fit.   One would hope so :)   > year, you climb up to the top car, you remove the wheels, you pull the > rusty drums or calipers off, and then, only then, do you get any chance to > see the condition of the brake pads and shoes.   Normally they're ok, and normally the owner has a pretty good idea which of his stock has had recent brake work on it, so will point you to those.   > shoe is about $20 a set of four at Rock Auto.   > Did I surmise the scrap yard process incorrectly? > If so, how would you correct that process of *selecting* the right pads?   there were no markings or codes on them then. AFAIK all the available options were asbestos based.   $20 to get pads you don't know how they'll hold up in service versus $1.50 to get pads that you can see are doing good and have 90+% of life left. That's really the choice, at least for cars where you have both options, which of course you don't always.     NT

Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Jan 16 08:46PM -0600 On 1/16/18 7:57 PM, tabbypurr@gmail.com wrote:   [ Snip ]   You're talking to yourself. Shit for brains left already.     -- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com

Terry Schwartz <tschw10117@aol.com>: Jan 16 12:36PM -0800 I've had a few of these Chinese radios -- one was even labeled Grundig, and it had the little dynamo crank that charged anemic ni-cads.   None have been worth using as a radio, they are un-listenable. The Grundig had a built in flashlight, and in the days before LED flashlights, I actually made use of that radio once in an emergency to shed light on a tire-changing operation. But not the radio.   I find the audio so bad, so flat, that after mere moments I need to turn it off.   Now when I see them at swaps or estate sales, I don't even give them a 2nd look.   Last weekend I did fine a rather handsome early Sony transistor (turned out to be a rather rare bird), and a Realtone space capsule radio. Neither of these would have great audio either, but both have historical and visual appeal.

Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Jan 16 03:58PM -0600 On 1/16/18 2:36 PM, Terry Schwartz wrote: > Realtone space capsule radio. Neither of these would have > great audio either, but both have historical and visual > appeal.   *laughs* Yes, there's "crap" and then there's "Utter crap."   -- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com

John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Jan 16 03:08PM -0800 On Tuesday, January 16, 2018 at 8:52:32 AM UTC-5, Terry Schwartz wrote: > Looks like throw-away Chinese junk. I see the sales sheet says built in condenser mic... any evidence of a recording function?   > Also sports CFD lighting. What the hell is CFD?   Come on Terry, you're a pro!! CFD is Compact Fluorescent Diode...   You're welcome.

Terry Schwartz <tschw10117@aol.com>: Jan 16 04:12PM -0800 So, what are you saying, Jeff? :-)

Terry Schwartz <tschw10117@aol.com>: Jan 16 04:18PM -0800 That might have potential. I'll need to think about that!

Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Jan 16 06:32PM -0600 On 1/16/18 6:12 PM, Terry Schwartz wrote: > So, what are you saying, Jeff? :-)   >> *laughs* Yes, there's "crap" and then there's "Utter crap."   There's stuff others would consider crap that you or I would enjoying because it has some intrinsic value to us.   Then there's stuff that is nothing more than utter crap. Like 90% of what you see in a thrift store.   That that crap is on sale for $1 doesn't surprise me. What does surprise me is that that stuff ever sold in the first place. At retail.     -- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com

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