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micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Jun 10 11:11PM -0400 In sci.electronics.repair, on Sat, 9 Jun 2018 23:41:18 -0700 (PDT), >or clamp flexible cables; I've seen those dislodge (or actually break >solder joints) without being obvious. A probe with a stick (I keep chopsticks >in the toolbox) can make it wiggle, if that's the issue.   Not many people know what chopsticks were originally for.

bruce2bowser@gmail.com: Jun 11 02:00AM -0700 On Sunday, June 10, 2018 at 11:11:56 PM UTC-4, micky wrote: > >solder joints) without being obvious. A probe with a stick (I keep chopsticks > >in the toolbox) can make it wiggle, if that's the issue.   > Not many people know what chopsticks were originally for.   And at that, I don't even think 'chop sticks' is even the name to use (or even the right alphabet).

bruce2bowser@gmail.com: Jun 11 02:04AM -0700 On Saturday, June 9, 2018 at 9:13:48 PM UTC-4, The Real Bev wrote: > ~$25 on ebay, so buying a $9 battery on spec is silly, especially when I > have a spare from a yard sale.   > Can anybody speculate on what might be broken?   First of all, a microscope might be handy in a do it yourself manner. I wonder what hardware manufacturer makes the Nook. Could it be Toshiba? Samsung? Apple?

micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Jun 11 10:37AM -0400 In sci.electronics.repair, on Sat, 9 Jun 2018 18:13:44 -0700, The Real >~$25 on ebay, so buying a $9 battery on spec is silly, especially when I >have a spare from a yard sale.   >Can anybody speculate on what might be broken?   It depends on how hard you fell on it.   Long ago a roommate brought me his 6" CRT tv AM-FM clock radio. The only one I've ever seen. His father got mad at him and threw it at him.   The picture tube was fine but the circuit board was broken. I soldered jumper wires across the leads that were broken, not at the break points but from the places where components were soldered in closest to the break points. About 15 pairs of them, but it worked afterwards. Most were obvious but some a few were just little cracks. I think you could solder straight the "wires", the traces, but you'd have to scrape off the lacquer or whatever it's covered with.

root <NoEMail@home.org>: Jun 10 09:54PM I have a hot swap caddy (Antec) which allows me to plug a 3.5 inch hard drive into the system. I am trying to find an adapter which will accept a 2.5 inch ssd to fit into the caddy. Bytecc seemed to offer such an adapter, but it only fits into a 3.5 inch slot with no capability of engaging the connections.   I would appreciate any information about the availability if such an adapter.   Thanks.

mike <ham789@netzero.net>: Jun 10 06:29PM -0700 On 6/10/2018 2:54 PM, root wrote:   > I would appreciate any information about the availability > if such an adapter.   > Thanks.   Kingwin HDCV-4   I also have a hot swap caddy that can accept 3.5 and 2.5 at the same time. It works, but the plastic mechanism is very flexible and I'm afraid I'm gonna break it with every ejection.

root <NoEMail@home.org>: Jun 11 03:03AM > 3.5 and 2.5 at the same time. > It works, but the plastic mechanism is very flexible > and I'm afraid I'm gonna break it with every ejection.   Thanks for responding. I just ordered the HDCV-4 from NewEgg.   I do have a Kingwin Hot Swap Caddy that takes the 2.5 drive, but the caddies are no longer available from Kingwin.

"Ron D." <ron.dozier@gmail.com>: Jun 10 10:35AM -0700 I had an 82 Toyota Celica. Radio was horrible. It looked like it was designed for an external antenna amplifier and when one was added, the number of stations received increased.   It was very "hissy" when the speakers were upgraded,   I have a 2000 Solara and the Radio is pretty nice. 5 CD changer, cassette and AM/FM.   ==   House wise, I have a Technics Professional ST-9030. See http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/technics-tuner-st-9030.363631/ I have been able to get 3 stations on the same frequency just by rotating the antenna.   The FM bandwidth is selectable from auto and wide. They probably should have made it auto and narrow. It may continuously change bandwidths in auto mode.   To make things more interesting, I added a Carver TX1-11 signal process which makes multipath noise "go away".   More interesting yet, I have a 4bx dynamic range expander with impact restoration.   The tuner had two outputs. One filtered at 15 kHz so it would not interfere with tape decks and one with a higher response.   I also owned a automotive Blaupunkt Tucson which was very good coupled with an active AM antenna.

jurb6006@gmail.com: Jun 10 01:01PM -0700 On Sunday, June 10, 2018 at 12:35:38 PM UTC-5, Ron D. wrote: > I had an 82 Toyota Celica. Radio was horrible. It looked like it was designed for an external antenna amplifier and when one was added, the number of stations received increased.   > It was very "hissy" when the speakers were upgraded,   Ford and GM seemed to apply importance to their car stereos in the early 1980s. Amps with DPL (anti-clippping gain control), speakers from Bose, tuners from Hughes Aircraft which were also used in David Hafler tuners, and Blaupunkt for the cassette decks. Bose also made some amps for mainly Caddilacs, they were class D and ran into very low impedance. But that was no stranger to Bose, the speakers in the 901s are 0.9 ohms each. They get near 8 ohms being all in series.   And a buddy of mine has a 2005 Ford Taurus and that thing gets stations I can't even dream of getting. Two of them I really want, 94.9 and 97.5 out of Akron, which is not all that close. And he gets them clean. I might have to fell him over this. (jk)     > House wise, I have a Technics Professional ST-9030. See http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/technics-tuner-st-9030.363631/ I have been able to get 3 stations on the same frequency just by rotating the antenna.   > The FM bandwidth is selectable from auto and wide. They probably should have made it auto and narrow. It may continuously change bandwidths in auto mode.   I ould like auto, narrow and wide if I can't have a variable control. In fact I wouldn't mind auto because signal conditions change.       > To make things more interesting, I added a Carver TX1-11 signal process which makes multipath noise "go away".   I bet all that is is a stereo blend with logic. Bob did alot of "magic" that way. Those asymmetrical charged coupled device tuners of his were not the cat's ass. All it did was to detect what it thought was distortion along maybe with multipath which is easy to detect and start blending left and right and adding a digitally delayed signal to the L-R.     > More interesting yet, I have a 4bx dynamic range expander with impact restoration.   I am going to build something like that one day if I live long enough, and all in discrete components.     > The tuner had two outputs. One filtered at 15 kHz so it would not interfere with tape decks and one with a higher response.   Regular FM stereo is capable of 19 KHz but it takes some doing. It takes a very accurate pilot cancel circuit with a PLL generated null signal to assure a perfect sine wave. Interference to the wave would be reproduced, but also prevented from interfering with the phase lock of the MPX decoder oscillator. I don't want the job, maybe Revox.   > I also owned a automotive Blaupunkt Tucson which was very good coupled with an active AM antenna.   Seems like you're into AM. Well, it is more people's media because it is much cheaper to have an AM station than FM, and forget TV. Maybe, for the common good we should support AM radio.   I'll have to give that some thought.

jaugustine@verizon.net: Jun 10 02:06PM -0400 Hi,   This TV, located in the basement, is connected to a power strip with a switch that "disconnects" everything that is plugged into the power strip.   I normally keep the power strip switch in OFF position. Recently, when I turned it on (power strip), not long afterwards, the TV started to turn itself on, then off. Then it repeated that "activity".   John

jurb6006@gmail.com: Jun 10 12:33PM -0700 > itself on, then off. Then it repeated that "activity".   > John   > On Sat, 9 Jun 2018 20:44:42 -0700 (PDT), ...   OK, there are a million things that can turn it off but few that can turn it on. You might have bad little suppression caps or diodes at the keypad on the unit. They get intermittently leaky and can cause this. One way to find out is to power the unit up with the keypad disconnected. If it still comes on by itself it is either noise in the IR receiver or a bad uProcessor.   In many newer sets the keypad and IR receiver are on the same board and disconnecting one also disconnects the other rendering the test only conclusive to prove the uProcessor is good - if the behavior stops, though the caps and diodes may be on the main board in which case it is more logical to eliminate the noisy IR receiver first. To do this you'll have to unsolder it and remove it, and see what happens of course.   An IR receiver causing this is not unheard of but is a bit rare. It depends on how they structured the pulse trains in the system.   Assuming it does not stop without the IR input, you can remove those caps and diodes, lift one end unless they are SMD. When they are removed observe static handling methods, touch the unit before operating anything on it as it will be vulnerable. But if the behavior stops all you need is diodes and caps. Actually though it could be the glue underneath, but to prove it you pretty much ruin the components anyway so, you need them.   Unless the uProcessor is bad. That is pretty much a death knell for those things. It is unlikely you can get one and who knows, it might be BGA which quite frankly is not worth the trouble to change. They give away working TVs on Craigslist. I am only here because I firmly believe that anything that does not go to the dumpster is good for us and good for our country. It is worth a try unless one is too busy.

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