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Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Aug 15 05:54PM -0400 Where can I buy some small wire ( about # 28 to 30 ) that has the enamel type of insulation that can be soldered and the heat will melt the insulation ? There was some on ebay I bought that did not seem to work. After checking it out, it seems that it needs to be heated to almost 400 deg C and when I tried that, it did not do all that well.

"Dave M" <dgminala@mediacombb.net>: Aug 15 06:57PM -0500 Ralph Mowery wrote: > to work. After checking it out, it seems that it needs to be heated > to almost 400 deg C and when I tried that, it did not do all that > well.     Wire such as Essex Soderon is solderable, as you want. The insulation melts at approx. 237°C, well below 400°C. Amazon, for one, has it at https://www.amazon.com/Magnet-Enameled-Copper-Winding-Solderable/dp/B01EMHDXIM   Cheers, Dave M

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Aug 15 06:16PM -0700 On Wednesday, 15 August 2018 22:54:24 UTC+1, Ralph Mowery wrote:   > insulation ? There was some on ebay I bought that did not seem to work. > After checking it out, it seems that it needs to be heated to almost 400 > deg C and when I tried that, it did not do all that well.   there are 2 types of enamelled copper wire, some is solderable without stripping first. Where? There are lots of electronic part suppliers. You didn't say what country.     NT

mike <ham789@netzero.net>: Aug 15 06:18PM -0700 On 8/15/2018 4:57 PM, Dave M wrote: > https://www.amazon.com/Magnet-Enameled-Copper-Winding-Solderable/dp/B01EMHDXIM   > Cheers, > Dave M   Funny story... 25 years ago, I contracted some LCD monitors from Japan as part of a product offering. They had been modded using that type of wire. The QC manager took one look and insisted that they all be rejected. YMMV

philo <philo@privacy.net>: Aug 15 08:46PM -0500 On 08/15/2018 08:18 PM, mike wrote: > a product offering.  They had been modded using that type of wire. > The QC manager took one look and insisted that they all be rejected. > YMMV       As far as those mod wires often used on circuit boards, the company I worked for hired some engineers who worked in the aerospace industry.     We had them manufacture controls for industrial battery chargers and the boards had to me modded by adding a few jumpers.     One customer did not like the looks of them though of course all was OK electrically. Anyway, when I mentioned that to one of the engineers he just laughed. He said, "Battery chargers, heck we have planes out there flying with green wires."

mike <ham789@netzero.net>: Aug 15 08:10PM -0700 On 8/15/2018 6:46 PM, philo wrote: > just laughed. > He said, "Battery chargers, heck we have planes out there flying with > green wires." Soldering green wires is common. The problem with the melting insulation is that you can't tell whether you got a reliable connection among all the melted plastic.   The monitors in question used stranded wires with melted insulation. You solder the joint, then snip the wire. The strands stuck out in all directions, sometimes overlaying other parts or traces. "Hoping for the best" was not attractive to the QC manager.

Mikko OH2HVJ <mikko.syrjalahti@nospam.fi>: Aug 16 09:22AM +0300 > insulation ? There was some on ebay I bought that did not seem to work. > After checking it out, it seems that it needs to be heated to almost 400 > deg C and when I tried that, it did not do all that well.   Google for 'solderable magnet wire'. Amazon has some, Adafruit has this: https://www.adafruit.com/product/3522   I'm using 350°C iron and pushing the cut wire end to the solder blob nicely removes 1-2mm of coating.( Don't breath the smoke.)   -- mikko OH2HVJ

Johann Klammer <klammerj@NOSPAM.a1.net>: Aug 16 08:23AM +0200 > there are 2 types of enamelled copper wire, some is solderable without stripping first. > Where? There are lots of electronic part suppliers. You didn't say what country.   > NT   Hello. I had been looking for that stuff too, once. Unsuccessfully. Do you maybe have some more trade names or brands I could use as search terms? Soderon did not work on farnell.. and Essex gives only connectors n stuff.

Johann Klammer <klammerj@NOSPAM.a1.net>: Aug 16 08:27AM +0200 On 08/16/2018 08:23 AM, Johann Klammer wrote: > Do you maybe have some more trade names or brands I could use as search terms? > Soderon did not work on farnell.. > and Essex gives only connectors n stuff.   Maybe the name of the coating would work. the hi temp crap is called polyurethane here I believe, and strangely enough the farnell people have the notice solderable on all of that magnet wire when it really isn't.

whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com>: Aug 16 12:00AM -0700 On Wednesday, August 15, 2018 at 11:24:01 PM UTC-7, Johann Klammer wrote:   > Do you maybe have some more trade names or brands I could use as search terms? > Soderon did not work on farnell.. > and Essex gives only connectors n stuff.   Belden called their version Beldsol.

Johann Klammer <klammerj@NOSPAM.a1.net>: Aug 16 09:13AM +0200 On 08/16/2018 09:00 AM, whit3rd wrote: >> Soderon did not work on farnell.. >> and Essex gives only connectors n stuff.   > Belden called their version Beldsol.   That yielded a result. Funny. This is from their datasheet: > The wire requires a soldering iron temperature of 400°C+ to remove the enamel. > (Weller bit temperature code 8 or 9 or temperature-controlled iron)   <http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/2331656.pdf?_ga=2.14158068.230652389.1534400363-531033438.1534400363>

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Aug 16 12:33AM -0700 On 2018/08/15 11:22 PM, Mikko OH2HVJ wrote: > nicely removes 1-2mm of coating.( Don't breath the smoke.)   > -- > mikko OH2HVJ   How trustworthy do you think items are on Amazon?   I have had several negative experiences:   A 15" LCD monitor that I bought had a power supply that had no registration marks on it at all. Taking a closer look was entertaining - the power cord (also uncontaminated with UL/CSA/CE marks)) had a two prong male plug going to a three prong computer style power female socket. If you flexed the power cable at either end the insulation covering the wires pulled out of the corresponding plug ends...   Another item of inferior quality quality was a LED night light that had the metal threaded portion come up about 1/4" above the edge of the socket - nice shock risk!   I would expect magnet wire sold on Amazon to possibly being poor quality clones with insulation that probably doesn't meet its own "specifications".   If it isn't sold by a company with a physical address then I would consider it too risky...name brand product means little, it is the dependability of the company selling it that determines if the product is counterfeit or not.   There is a lot of crap out there being sold to an unsuspecting public.   John

Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Aug 16 11:50AM -0400 In article <a9e058ad-d119-455f-8215-977689cb4921@googlegroups.com>, tabbypurr@gmail.com says...   > there are 2 types of enamelled copper wire, some is solderable without stripping first. > Where? There are lots of electronic part suppliers. You didn't say what country.   > NT   I am in the US.     There seems to be lots that will heat strip/solder around 400 deg C for use on motors and transformers but I am looking for some that I can use on circuit boards and will heat strip at a more normal electronic solder temperature of around 300 deg C or less.   In use the wire will never get very hot, say like inside a computer or TV.

Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Aug 16 11:50AM -0400 In article <hK-dnf8WyPZjIOnGnZ2dnUU7-I3NnZ2d@giganews.com>, dgminala@mediacombb.net says...   > Cheers, > Dave M   Unless they make more than one type of wire labled like that, it takes about 390 deg C to melt the insulation from a youtube vidio. That is what I bought off ebay and it does es not melt and solder evenwith my iron set to over 350 deg C. The same company does make some wire that is advertised at a much higher temperature rating also. I bought 3 different sizw wire spools from them and none of them would melt the insulation at anything near the normal soldering temperatute. I even tried it at a much higher temperature with my hot air rework wand.   Years ago a company (think it was Hamtronics) had some kits that coils were wound and the wire was soldered to the terminals without manually stripping.

whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com>: Aug 15 04:08PM -0700 On Sunday, August 12, 2018 at 9:04:58 PM UTC-7, Peabody wrote: > I have a Sharp dumb TV,... need to figure out what local channels I can get.   It can be done by experimenting with aiming a directional antenna, but it can also be done by visiting one of the websites that contains station location info.   Antennaweb.org is one, and the FCC covers the US situation pretty well <https://www.fcc.gov/media/engineering/dtvmaps>

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Aug 15 09:57AM -0700 >All my swollen batteries are in Android and Windows phones. >Maybe Apple got it right.   I beg to differ somewhat: <https://www.google.com/search?q=iphone+bulging+battery&tbm=isch> The reason you see more bulging batteries in Android phones is because there are 3 times more activated Android phones in service than iPhones. Also because the Android batteries are somewhat easier to replace in most Android phones (except HTC). Original batteries are usually good quality, but the replacements are not so good.   -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Mike Coon <gravity@mjcoon.plus.com>: Aug 15 07:35PM +0100 In article <ndm8nddm3rcj286blaejknict38m1og9tn@4ax.com>, jeffl@cruzio.com says... > iPhones. Also because the Android batteries are somewhat easier to > replace in most Android phones (except HTC). Original batteries are > usually good quality, but the replacements are not so good.   Hmmm. The manual for my Motorola phone explicitly says it can be left on charge. First symptom was failure of "torch" function. Then screen bulged out of the case. The bulging battery had disconnected the torch. The replacement battery is OK so far, but I don't leave it on charge for long periods...   Mike.

mike <ham789@netzero.net>: Aug 15 12:59PM -0700 On 8/15/2018 11:35 AM, Mike Coon wrote: > The replacement battery is OK so far, but I don't leave it on charge for > long periods...   > Mike.   There are a couple of effects. Lithium batteries don't like maximum voltage, on charge or not. Degradation increases rapidly as voltage increases. If you charge then disconnect, the percentage of time the battery stays at that maximum voltage is SIGNIFICANTLY less.   Vendors maximize the claimed run time of their phones. They push it to the limit, and maybe past. Staying on charge is bad news.   Some devices charge to max, but internally disconnect until the battery falls below some level. Some devices allow you to set the maximum charge level. That lets them advertise big life numbers and blame you if your battery fails.   The stuff I buy at garage sales is old technology. That's why I think I need to take some action inside the charge system. Series diodes are the only thing I can think to do without a lot of proprietary info about how the charge controller works.   The pinout page shows several ways to disable charging. I've interpreted this to mean that it also forces it to run on internal battery. Some investigation might be in order to see if that's the case. Maybe a FET in series with the charge line that gets turned off when inserted into the speaker dock.   I'd merely have to charge the battery on a different charger occasionally to keep the battery from going completely flat.   I've got 2 ipods and 4 iphones 3, 3GS, 4, 4GS...and maybe a dozen speaker docks. Likely that they all charge differently. Making something compatible across the range will be a challenge.   I keep coming back to a pair of diodes to drop the max charge voltage and wondering whether the charge controller will tolerate that dead band in the curve.

"petrus bitbyter" <petrus.bitbyter@hotmail.com>: Aug 15 09:36PM +0200 | | | "Ying Yang" schreef in bericht news:71fbb174-4d09-441e-9f6b-8e9947d8b825@googlegroups.com... | | hi | i have a panasonic 60w dc motor for air conditioner that i wanna use this motor for an AC system so i need redraw wiring of DC motor for using it on AC system so i need help cuz i dont know | how must done this job?   You did not provide enough information to get a really usefull answer. One of the most important things is the voltage required. It makes a hugh difference whether 12Vdc, 24Vdc, 120Vdc, 220Vdc or some other value is required. Another thing is the type of the motor involved. The type should be on a plate on the motor. Best of all would be the datasheet of the motor.   petrua bitbyter

"Ian Field" <gangprobing.alien1@virginmedia.com>: Aug 15 06:21PM +0100 <tabbypurr@gmail.com> wrote in message news:65d84256-1d8c-4199-b196-c9143b38bb69@googlegroups.com...   > usually degaussing doesn't need to be fixed unless you move the tv. The > dual element thermistor can most likely be replaced by a standard one from > almost any other colour tv.   Incorrect: there are 2 types - the usual one is dual PTC, the "spare" PTC is directly across the mains to heat the active one and cut it off. the very early single PTC had a load resistor and fed to the coils via a 68V VDR. Some are PTC/NTC - the NTC is heated by the current draw of the TV/monitor which also provides inrush surge limiting.   My TV has a single PTC and a time delay relay - fairly common on PC monitors. Some had a front panel degauss button so you could do it manually as well as at power up.   The most common failure mode is the thermistor pellet sometimes shatters - my TV also has some electronics that could fail.

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Aug 15 10:38AM -0700 On Wednesday, 15 August 2018 18:21:05 UTC+1, Ian Field wrote: > as well as at power up.   > The most common failure mode is the thermistor pellet sometimes shatters - > my TV also has some electronics that could fail.   So plenty to choose from. Motor & magnet is another option.     NT

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