- wire that heat strips insulation - 19 Updates
- Still need these tubes for my drug store tube tester UPDATED LIST - 1 Update
| Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Aug 16 10:03AM -0700 On Wed, 15 Aug 2018 17:54:14 -0400, Ralph Mowery >insulation ? There was some on ebay I bought that did not seem to work. >After checking it out, it seems that it needs to be heated to almost 400 >deg C and when I tried that, it did not do all that well. Before I dive into the magnet wire selection swamp, have you considered using a chemical stripper or abrasive stripper? For chemical stripper, I use common furniture stripper (methylene chloride). Dip, wait about 15 seconds, wipe clean, dip in flux, and tin in a small solder pot: <https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-110V-160W-50MM-Titanium-Alloy-Solder-Pot-Soldering-Desoldering-Bath/263799392388> I don't have one of those. I use a stainless tubing endcap attached to a big soldering iron with a hose clamp. Ugly, but effective. I haven't measured the temp, but I'm sure it's less than 400C. Oh, they make a commercial version of my kludge: <https://www.ebay.com/itm/180W-280W-Electric-Solder-Pot-Melting-Tin-Furnace-with-Temperature-Control-HighQ/232835430586> The down side of chemical stripping is that it's slow, but if you have a bunch of wires to strip, you can just clump them together and dip them in stripper simultaneously. Drain cleaner allegedly works: <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EbHFtX_KtbE> but looks dangerous. For abrasive magnet wire stripping, there are machines and tools available. <https://www.google.com/search?q=magnet+wire+stripper&tbm=isch> The problem is that #28 or #30 might be too thin to do with some of the tools. Try it with some sandpaper. If that works, you have a chance. If you want to get fancy, grind a slot lengthwise down a pair of tweezers or pliers that fits the wire diameter. Dump the wire end in some abrasive powder, clamp, and pull. You will probably need to do it a few times. I do this when I don't want to play with the chemicals. Tin when done. Ok, on to the vendors: <https://mwswire.com/magnet-wire/round-copper-magnet-wire/> <https://mwswire.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/mws-insulation-guide-from-web.pdf> gotta run... -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
| root <NoEMail@home.org>: Aug 16 05:08PM ><https://mwswire.com/magnet-wire/round-copper-magnet-wire/> ><https://mwswire.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/mws-insulation-guide-from-web.pdf> > gotta run... If OP is willing to have a solder pot running he can crank that up to 400 and just dip the ends of the wires in the pot. That would tin the ends and make them ready for soldering to the board. |
| John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Aug 16 11:28AM -0700 On 2018/08/16 10:08 AM, root wrote: > If OP is willing to have a solder pot running he can crank that up > to 400 and just dip the ends of the wires in the pot. That would > tin the ends and make them ready for soldering to the board. A BIC lighter works well for burning off the varnish, then rub off the carbonized varnish and tin... John :-#)# |
| Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Aug 16 02:34PM -0400 In article <3o9bnd1d90ka2231a10llnmnrp2m4uk2d4@4ax.com>, jeffl@cruzio.com says... > >deg C and when I tried that, it did not do all that well. > Before I dive into the magnet wire selection swamp, have you > considered using a chemical stripper or abrasive stripper? Thanks for all the info Jeff. I guess that wire like I really want is not around. I am looking for an easy way to build circuits on a perf board. I thougt it would be easy to just lay some magnet wire on a terminal and let the solder melt the insulation. Then go to the next connection and solder that one with out having to mechanically or chemically remove the insulation. Does not look that type of wire is around. So as I will have to find some method of stripping the wire, I might as well continue like I have been doing and use the wire like the hard and flopy drive cables. It is a small solid wire with the plastic type of insulation. Easy to strip with just small wire strippers. |
| Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Aug 16 11:49AM -0700 On Thu, 16 Aug 2018 14:34:36 -0400, Ralph Mowery >well continue like I have been doing and use the wire like the hard and >flopy drive cables. It is a small solid wire with the plastic type of >insulation. Easy to strip with just small wire strippers. That's probably wire wrap wire. It's all #30AWG tin plated solid wire. <https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wire_wrap> The technology is mostly obsolete today. There were huge piles of the pre-cut wire lengths and spools scattered all over the local surplus stores. I have a few large bundles left that I use for making breadboards. Highly recommended. <https://www.ebay.com/sch/73139/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=wire+wrap+wire> The only things I use magnet wire for is torroid inductors and repairing motors. -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
| John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Aug 16 12:06PM -0700 On 2018/08/16 11:34 AM, Ralph Mowery wrote: > well continue like I have been doing and use the wire like the hard and > flopy drive cables. It is a small solid wire with the plastic type of > insulation. Easy to strip with just small wire strippers. Look for WIRE WRAP wire, that meets your specs - the insulation melts out of the way and is useful for low voltage work... John :-#)# -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3 (604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out." |
| Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Aug 16 03:18PM -0400 In article <ohhbnd93qh3jns6i4a8fds9bc4mkbfd9pk@4ax.com>, jeffl@cruzio.com says... > <https://www.ebay.com/sch/73139/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=wire+wrap+wire> > The only things I use magnet wire for is torroid inductors and > repairing motors. At one time I was using some of the wire wrap wire to build things but soldered it in instead of goig the wire wrap way. I looked on ebay and seems to me that wire is still sort of high as I would think like you said, almost no one would be using it now. Just about all the new stuff is SMD. With the new software one can draw up the circuit and have a PC board made for almost nothing now. A ham made a modification to the uBITX transceiver and would ship 2 PC boards that were about an inch square and had 2 or 3 transistors, resistors and capacitors for only $ 5 . Said that was about his cost. Sure wish there were some local surplus stores close to me, but none around. de ku4pt |
| tabbypurr@gmail.com: Aug 16 01:50PM -0700 On Thursday, 16 August 2018 19:34:46 UTC+1, Ralph Mowery wrote: > let the solder melt the insulation. Then go to the next connection and > solder that one with out having to mechanically or chemically remove the > insulation. Does not look that type of wire is around. I fully expect it is. I have enough for a lifetime. NT |
| mike <ham789@netzero.net>: Aug 16 02:21PM -0700 >> insulation. Does not look that type of wire is around. > I fully expect it is. I have enough for a lifetime. > NT I've used both types. The stuff that looks like magnet wire has to be tinned before you use it. My experience was that it took longer to get the insulation to melt than it would have taken to strip wire-wrap wire. The meltable plastic coating has the advantage that you don't have to measure it, You stick the end on the pad and solder it. Then you set the appropriate position on the second pad and solder that. You cut it off and go on to the next one...or for wire connected to multiple places, you just keep laying it down and tacking it to the new location. It's demonstrably faster for repeated mods to lots of units. But you can't easily/visually verify that you have a reliable connection. There's melted plastic in/around the joint. 30 years ago, parts and traces were a lot bigger. Today, finding a place to solder anything is a challenge. |
| Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Aug 16 03:56PM -0700 On Thu, 16 Aug 2018 15:18:21 -0400, Ralph Mowery >At one time I was using some of the wire wrap wire to build things but >soldered it in instead of goig the wire wrap way. Yep, same here. It makes good "hookup wire" for PCB interconnects. It can also end up looking like a rats nest. >I looked on ebay and seems to me that wire is still sort of high as I >would think like you said, almost no one would be using it now. Just >about all the new stuff is SMD. Yeah, I was also surprised at the high prices. I guess the supply of surplus wire is slowly disappearing. So, buy cut pieces, which I don't think anyone but hobbyists want: <https://www.bmisurplus.com/products/55042-pre-cut-pre-stripped-kynar-wire-wrapping-wire-mixed-lot-of-157> $50 is quite a bit for a pile of wire, but I think you get everything in the photo (157 bags) which should last you a lifetime. >With the new software one can draw up the circuit and have a PC board >made for almost nothing now. Yep, breadboarding is mostly dead. However, I still make quite a few modifications to existing boards, and a few one of a kind prototypes, where breadboard style construction is still efficient. >A ham made a modification to the uBITX transceiver and would ship 2 PC >boards that were about an inch square and had 2 or 3 transistors, >resistors and capacitors for only $ 5 . Said that was about his cost. He's not going to get rich selling at cost. >Sure wish there were some local surplus stores close to me, but none >around. Yep. Digging through the huge piles of surplus electronic junk in the Smog Angeles area was a favorite pastime. -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
| Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Aug 16 07:37PM -0400 In article <pl4pu6$1df$1@dont-email.me>, ham789@netzero.net says... > There's melted plastic in/around the joint. > 30 years ago, parts and traces were a lot bigger. Today, > finding a place to solder anything is a challenge. The small parts is why I bought a stereo microscope a couple of years ago. Best $ 290 I have spent in a long time. I was about 65 when I started on the SMD circuits. Even use it now to wire the 1/8 inch phone plugs. Now some of them have 4 wires going to them. I remember wiring up a ST-6 rtty demodulator on a piece of pref board and point to point wiring and did not even wear glasses. About 6 or so ICs and lots of parts and a few transistors. Now I can hardly see the parts with my glasses on. With the proper equipmnet it is not too difficult to build up kits that have the PC board already made. Sometimes I think it is even easier than the old transistor circuits. |
| tabbypurr@gmail.com: Aug 16 05:27PM -0700 On Thursday, 16 August 2018 23:57:00 UTC+1, Jeff Liebermann wrote: > >around. > Yep. Digging through the huge piles of surplus electronic junk in the > Smog Angeles area was a favorite pastime. It's free now, just keep an eye out for stuff dumped on the street. NT |
| jurb6006@gmail.com: Aug 16 05:27PM -0700 If you're just looking to strip the ends, you can put a blob of solder on the end of a soldering iron and immerse the end of the wire in it. No chance of fire, no carbolising, no corrosion, no sanding, no anything. You can rest the iron and the blob on cardboard, it is not likely to burn it even with the lead free temperatures, though keep your eye on it of course. I've done it with butane lighters and had to clean the carbon off, I also skinned it with a knife or razor. But when my ex-boss showed me that technique I was convinced. Almost no smoke, and the copper is about tinned as well. He taught me a couple of things, and I him as well. One fault, I told him what it was and his response was "I'll not soon forget that". This guy had a couple of other talents. Like rebuilding a cam gear in a VCR, even recreating the teeth with pieces of paper clip, shaped just right. Anyway, he pissed me off later and I went to work for his olady, and that didn't work well. Ditzy bitch. Paychecks bounced and she sports a new necklace. That was pretty much the end of that. See he got drunk and hit a cop car and figured they were going to sue his balls off so he gave the business to her. Anyway, just get some cardboard and your iron and some solder and it will strip. I have used that method many times. |
| bruce2bowser@gmail.com: Aug 16 06:54PM -0700 On Thursday, August 16, 2018 at 2:34:46 PM UTC-4, Ralph Mowery wrote: > well continue like I have been doing and use the wire like the hard and > flopy drive cables. It is a small solid wire with the plastic type of > insulation. Easy to strip with just small wire strippers. Afterwards, I wonder how much you could net at a junk yard for it. |
| whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com>: Aug 16 08:15PM -0700 On Thursday, August 16, 2018 at 8:50:41 AM UTC-7, Ralph Mowery wrote: > use on motors and transformers but I am looking for some that I can use > on circuit boards and will heat strip at a more normal electronic solder > temperature of around 300 deg C or less. Solder temperature when wiring to the board needn't be the solder temperature that strips and tins the wire; you can dip a wire end into a solder pot instead. |
| Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Aug 16 11:59PM -0400 In article <96d28534-9bd6-4640-9346-96e7f4730ec8@googlegroups.com>, whit3rd@gmail.com says... > Solder temperature when wiring to the board needn't be the solder temperature > that strips and tins the wire; you can dip a wire end into a solder pot instead. Many are missing what I want to do. I would like to start at one point on a circuit board, maybe go to 3 or 4 or more places with an unbroken wire and just solder at each point on the board. That is why I want insulation that melts off around 300 deg c or less. |
| Mikko OH2HVJ <mikko.syrjalahti@nospam.fi>: Aug 17 09:18AM +0300 > Do you maybe have some more trade names or brands I could use as search terms? > Soderon did not work on farnell.. > and Essex gives only connectors n stuff. This is what I use. You can get it in a few colors from Farnell. http://www.newark.com/pro-power/rrw-p-105/wire-wiring-pencil-0-15mm-pink/dp/07WX0917 -- mikko OH2HVJ |
| Mikko OH2HVJ <mikko.syrjalahti@nospam.fi>: Aug 17 09:21AM +0300 >> and Essex gives only connectors n stuff. > This is what I use. You can get it in a few colors from Farnell. > http://www.newark.com/pro-power/rrw-p-105/wire-wiring-pencil-0-15mm-pink/dp/07WX0917 Now I checke the datasheet, which states you need 400°C. I use 350°C and the enamel strips nicely a bit from the end of the wire if you push it to molten solder. To strip from the center you probably need that 400°C. -- mikko |
| Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Aug 17 10:33AM -0400 In article <m2in49ldho.fsf@nospam.fi>, mikko.syrjalahti@nospam.fi says... > Now I checke the datasheet, which states you need 400°C. I use 350°C and > the enamel strips nicely a bit from the end of the wire if you push it > to molten solder. To strip from the center you probably need that 400°C. That is the problem I have. I bought some that specifies 400 deg C and that is too much heat for what I want to do. Going that hot for long enough to melt the insulation usually lifts the traces off a board. |
| Terry Schwartz <tschw10117@aol.com>: Aug 16 06:28PM -0700 11 part numbers left to find! Please help me close this project out. Terry 3DZ4 medium mu triode 2AS2 hv rect 6HE5 pentode v amp 6Q11/6K11 triple triode sync clipper & agc 12AY3 1/2 wave rect damper 6BY5 double diode damper, rect 6GT5 beam pentode h defl amp 6GW6 beam pentode h defl amp 6JE6 beam pentode h defl amp 21HJ5 beam pentode h defl amp 25CD6/25DN6 beam pentode h defl amp |
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