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Andy Burns <usenet@andyburns.uk>: Aug 03 04:35PM +0100 N_Cook wrote:     >> <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PsnzorA0WSs>   > Admittedly I skipped thru most of that, but I did not see what the > function is of this close-coupled mechanical litteral gating .   Mine does give a mechanical 'clunk' when you press the measure button, he describes this as a curtain that opens/closes to measure/calibrate.   Sounds a similar function to your gate, but mine doesn't rattle if you waggle it.

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Aug 03 06:26PM +0100 On 03/08/2018 16:35, Andy Burns wrote: > he describes this as a curtain that opens/closes to measure/calibrate.   > Sounds a similar function to your gate, but mine doesn't rattle if you > waggle it.   There is not enough inertia in the mass of the gate itself, plastic about 5x5x1mm, to be noticable in normal handling, it is totally free to move though when unpowered. It seems what you/I sense is the gate being suddenly stopped at either end of its swing and the inertia of very fast movement is transfered to the body of the unit.

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Aug 04 03:26PM +0100 On 03/08/2018 16:12, N_Cook wrote:   >> <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PsnzorA0WSs>   > Admittedly I skipped thru most of that, but I did not see what the > function is of this close-coupled mechanical litteral gating .   My guess for the swing gate is, there is an optimmum power setting for a given distance measured for accuracy, some middling setting initially and then up or down the power of the laser after initial measured distance.

Bob Engelhardt <BobEngelhardt@comcast.net>: Aug 03 04:13PM -0400 > ... > Anyway, at 26 bucks a pop from the local hardware store it would cost > a lot to replace all the GFCIs in the house. ...   Using GFCI breakers is probably more cost effective than GFCI receptacles when they're multiple receptacles per circuit.

etpm@whidbey.com: Aug 03 04:06PM -0700 On Fri, 3 Aug 2018 16:13:03 -0400, Bob Engelhardt >> a lot to replace all the GFCIs in the house. ...   >Using GFCI breakers is probably more cost effective than GFCI >receptacles when they're multiple receptacles per circuit. Code requires now the GFCI receptacles in wet locations as well as GFI breakers in the main panel. Every room in the house also has a GFCI receptacle. I assume each is at the beginning of a run so that all the non GFCI receptacles downstream are also protected. I don't know if that is code or exceeding code. The kitchen has 3 GFCIs. I dunno how many breakers in the panel supply the kitchen. From the way the house is set up I think one breaker supplies part of the kitchen, while another supplies the dining room and one receptacle on an island, while another breaker supplies the living room and one receptacle on the other end of the island. Everything is marked in the panel of course but I haven't really paid attention since there have been no problems except for the tripping GFCIs I posted about. Eric

jurb6006@gmail.com: Aug 03 08:40PM -0700 >"Using GFCI breakers is probably more cost effective than GFCI receptacles when they're multiple receptacles per circuit. "   Not if the place has shared neutrals in the "wrong" place. I walked into a job where they had a guy updating the wiring, and IMO wasn't all that great, but he tried to run bedrooms off a GFCI breaker and every time the 2 bedroom lights were on it would trip the breaker. One or the other would stay on.   The problem ? Shared neutral. Shared neutrals have killed electricians. There were 2 possible solutions, one was to tear out the new walls and require part of the house being careful about the neutrals, or take it off the GFCI and tell them no arc welding in the bedroom. Do it or walk off and they can get a real idiot who doesn't know a neutral from his big toe.   No, you can not just throw in GFCI breakers or a new box with them and expect no problems.

jurb6006@gmail.com: Aug 03 08:47PM -0700 >"I assume each is at the beginning of a run so that all the non GFCI receptacles downstream are also protected."   Nope. There is no more of that now because the device cannot be the splice.   >"I don't know if that is code or exceeding code."   Then you don't know.   I have found that daisy chaining a bunch of stuff off a GFCI outlet can be troublesome. First of all it causes more nuisance trips. A light over the sink is alright but not a bunch of more outlets. Even better - if you got a bunch of stuff running off of one and it trips, you don't know which outlet tripped it.

Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Aug 03 07:28PM -0500 On 8/1/18 6:46 PM, Fox's Mercantile wrote: > It's an interesting article, but it does NOT address how to set > the BIOS up to see the hard drive.   Buried in the service manual is the BIOS set up. IT recognized that there is indeed an IDE drive present. Then complained it couldn't boot from it. For a week or so, I thought there was still something wrong with the bios.   Surprise, coincidentally with my wiping the BIOS, the hard drive decided to quit working. Replacing it with a spare that I already had as an image the scope booted right up.'   Holmes was right. "What ever is left, however improbable, is the answer."     -- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com

Chuck <ch@dejanews.net>: Aug 03 12:58PM -0500 On Thu, 2 Aug 2018 08:45:57 -0700 (PDT), John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com> wrote:     >You know what else I've gone cheap on? Shaving razors. I now buy Trac II generic blades:   >https://www.amazon.com/Personna-Twin-TWIN-Razor-blades/dp/B003MFXWUA/ref=sr_1_1_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1533224471&sr=8-1&keywords=tracii   >If I replaced the blade once per week, I get two years for $15. Since I replace them once every two weeks, I get four years for $15 (that's just $4 per year), and I can't tell much difference between the generics and the Gillette. I have experienced all the failures mentioned with Weller pencils and soldering stations. Except for points, I've had zero failures with Tenma soldering stations.

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