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micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Aug 05 03:23AM -0400 I don't get it:   Pioneer CD-MC20 Auto-EQ Microphone for Car DVD Receivers   https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-CD-MC20-Auto-EQ-Microphone-Receivers/dp/B0038PIGDW/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1533453067&sr=8-6&keywords=microphone+for+car#customerReviews     Why does someone need a microphone for a DVD receiver. Are people doing karioke in the car? I thought people want microphones if they are connecting the car radio to the cellphone, but the ad doesn't mention cellphones.   And it says "Placement: The Pioneer CD-MC20 Auto-EQ microphone should be placed in the center of your vehicle's driver seat headrest facing forward. " So doesn't that mean if you're rear-ended your head will go back and whack this thing, which has got to be worse for your head than hitting the head restraint.   And what is it equalizing?     One of the answers to a questions is "No. It's made for auto eq the pioneer radio. A mic won't work on your auxiliary on your radio."   Is that true, a mic won't work through AUX? I thought that AUX is normally TRRS and a TS input will still match up with TRRS enough to likely work. Or at least possibly work. I'm not going to damage anything by trying, right?

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Aug 05 09:50AM +0100 On 05/08/2018 08:23, micky wrote: > normally TRRS and a TS input will still match up with TRRS enough to > likely work. Or at least possibly work. I'm not going to damage > anything by trying, right?   Active noise cancellation? would only work for one person, if that and limited to simple repetitive noise, adding antiphase of the received noise

Bruce Esquibel <bje@ripco.com>: Aug 05 10:24AM > And what is it equalizing?   A number of car stereos have a setup that is used when first installed to automatically set the volume and eq (bass/treble) for each speaker so it is optimized.   When in that mode, the radio plays a number of tones and white noise one speaker at a time to figure out the best pattern for the driver. That microphone is used to listen to those tones. You aren't in the car, you place the mic where your head would be and get out of the car and let the radio run the tests.   You don't leave it in circuit, after the radio does it's thing, it's removed.   Both my original radio and the current one has modes for "driver only", "front only" and "4 passenger". It's just a tweak to get the best sound based on how many people are in the car.   Unless you have a radio that does the auto configuration, there is no point having one of those mics.   -bruce bje@ripco.com

Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com>: Aug 05 01:44PM On Sun, 05 Aug 2018 10:24:39 +0000, Bruce Esquibel wrote:   > microphone is used to listen to those tones. You aren't in the car, you > place the mic where your head would be and get out of the car and let > the radio run the tests.   I thought I'd heard all the daft features modern cars have until I read this. Talk about needless complexity.       -- This message may be freely reproduced without limit or charge only via the Usenet protocol. Reproduction in whole or part through other protocols, whether for profit or not, is conditional upon a charge of GBP10.00 per reproduction. Publication in this manner via non-Usenet protocols constitutes acceptance of this condition.

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Aug 05 06:50AM -0700 On Sunday, 5 August 2018 14:44:43 UTC+1, Cursitor Doom wrote: > > the radio run the tests.   > I thought I'd heard all the daft features modern cars have until I read > this. Talk about needless complexity.   It's a fairly effective way to get better sound from small speakers in nonideal locations.   Most consumer products are needless now in this society.     NT

Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com>: Aug 05 03:57PM On Sun, 05 Aug 2018 06:50:06 -0700, tabbypurr wrote:   > It's a fairly effective way to get better sound from small speakers in > nonideal locations.   Maybe if you have perfectly good hearing. At my age, I don't, so the best way for me to set up a sound system would be by personal listening and fiddling.       -- This message may be freely reproduced without limit or charge only via the Usenet protocol. Reproduction in whole or part through other protocols, whether for profit or not, is conditional upon a charge of GBP10.00 per reproduction. Publication in this manner via non-Usenet protocols constitutes acceptance of this condition.

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Aug 04 10:59PM -0700 > https://images.homedepot-static.com/productImages/10c445d8-7bac-4207-a938-9afa64be4a13/svn/raco-boxes-brackets-8192-64_1000.jpg   > Peter Wieck > Melrose Park, PA   Presumably the motor drives a fan. If so you can make use of the speed/torque curve and use a capacitor on the ac side of the bridge to handle the motor voltage reduction.     NT

whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com>: Aug 04 09:57PM -0700 On Tuesday, July 31, 2018 at 10:31:50 AM UTC-7, N_Cook wrote:   > Do you happen to know what the oily or slimy stuff is, that coats old > very flexible cables such as telephone movable extension cables, a > bio-film or plasticiser like chemical ?   Some old vinyl cables ooze as they get stiff, so that's a plasticizer. With any luck, it's an obsolete plasticizer. Unless the cord is special, destroy it. Occasionally, though, the outer sheath is bad, but the inner wires are rubber-insulated (I try to keep those, they're limp and make good test lead material). Real rubber-insulated wire is just barely still available.

Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Aug 04 05:53PM -0400 In article <17754ce4-5e5b-42db-aa67-e418f446ec68@googlegroups.com>, jurb6006@gmail.com says...   > The problem ? Shared neutral. Shared neutrals have killed electricians. There were 2 possible solutions, one was to tear out the new walls and require part of the house being careful about the neutrals, or take it off the GFCI and tell them no arc welding in the bedroom. Do it or walk off and they can get a real idiot who doesn't know a neutral from his big toe.   > No, you can not just throw in GFCI breakers or a new box with them and expect no problems.   If it were my house and new construction, they would be ripping out the walls at their expense.   A good electrical inspector may even require that.

jurb6006@gmail.com: Aug 04 06:05PM -0700 >"If it were my house and new construction, they would be ripping out the walls at their expense."   It is a bit difficult to eliminate all shared neutrals, if can be done but costs more both in labor and materials.   I saw licensed, bonded and insured electricians wire an apartment using 3 runs of 14-3 WG. (may have been 12 but if it was it had very thin insulation) I had 2 110 volt window A/c units in 2 different rooms and they ended up on the same side of the 220. I was getting 25 volts between neutral and ground, I had to get one of those extension cords for one of them to plug in into a different outlet. But the point is, there were only 3 neutrals for the whole apartment, an upstairs of a house.   They couldn't tape drywall either. I turned on the livingroom light and it looked like they hung the sheetrock inside out it was so badly built up. And they said "Well it is better than the old plaster ceiling right ?". I said "NO, it isn't". Licensed, bonded, insured, $ 35,000 job. About $ 1.12/sq. ft. which is 32 per sheet. i don't know about you but even though I hate drywall I could bring myself to hang 3 sheets of it for a hundred bucks, and it would not look like that despite my eyesight.   >"A good electrical inspector may even require that."   On new construction - definitely. There is no way it can be code. You can go so far with using GFCI outlets all over the place but I am pretty sure they mean for the lights to be protected as well. this would be impossible without properly managing the neutrals. That means neutrals are only shared with everything on the same circuit, no other. And those heavy duty outlets in the kitchen that used to use 12-2 WG with the bridge between the hots cut and one to each breaker, one on each phase, not work. No good, it is a thing of the past. They came in handy, some people have like the microwave, toaster and coffee maker all right together. In most cases15 amps is not enough should you want to run all 3 at the same time. And that is a definite possibility.   I am pretty strict about wiring. In fact we got onw of those "really good" inspectors, Ivan Cucic, dubbed Ivan the Terrible by people who THINK they're electricians. I can understand the guy, he doesn't want people burned to death. And most of the code makes alot of sense. But as far as I can find, the need for arcproof breakers is at the very least overstated.   [political podium{short}] Regulatory agencies need regulation. For example, only a thousand or two people died from electrical fires, something like that, not sure if ANY died because of the lack of arcproof breakers. Take raw milk. If you sell raw milk in many states ad they catch you they treat you like you were cooking meth. A great threat to public safety right ? Yup, like a hundred people have gotten sick from contaminated raw milk that pasteurization MIGHT have prevented. I mean in like the past 10 years. OK ? Was it a knee jerk reaction ? Nope, lobbyists. [/political podium{short}]   Arcproof breaker requirements are sponsored by manufacturers of arcproof breakers. You know the Teflon tape the local DIY sells you telling you it is code ? That is a lie, it is not required nor has it ever been. By code it is an acceptable substitute for pipe dope. Real plumbers use pipe dope. Another way to spot a wannabe (for the paycheck) is when they use Teflon tape on the nut on a compression fitting, or the nut on a flare fitting. Or on brass. Pipe dope or anything like it is for use on sealing threads only, and anyone who doesn't know the difference should not be doing plumbing. Especially gas.   Another licensed and bonded supposed plumber, puts hot water tank in house, discards steel pipes and puts in plastic. Easy, just run it to the tank and voila. MMM, HMMM.   Gas Kan gets there and says "If I hook up the gas now I'll lose my job. Why ? Mr. Knowitall forgot, or never knew to, put in a sediment trap before the gas valve. Not very important really, all it does is to make sure that a piece of crap from the inside of the pipe doesn't jam in the gas valve and make it stay on when turned off. Nothing big, right ?   Licensed bonded and insured means when they kill someone with their improperly performed work they don't lose their house n shit, especially when working under a corporate shell.   Fukum, we call nobody. In fact even cement work. After the driveway. It is too high. I wasn't here during the contracting of that bur first of all no standpipes, can't plow. I am going to cut them off one of these days. Ad it is to high. now I know damn well if I told them "Oh by the way, same height as the original" they would have tried to say something about code. I would have said "Show me the book". Like I installed a side draft furnace once to have some idiot come along ans say it is not code. Bullshit.   I say to everyone - whenever a contractor starts about some code shit that makes no sense, remember these 4 words - "SHOW ME THE BOOK".   I'll bet you a hundred bucks they'll say they don't have one. Or that it costs too much to leave the office. Then you offer to go to the office. The end result is that they will be proven liars in some cases and in those cases they will just skulk away. Yeah "Well I'll get back to you on that". After the runaround you call someone else and they can practice their craft on others.   People piss me off, you can make a good living being honest - as long as you really know what you're doing.   Enough rant.   I know someone personally WITH the book (NEC and addendums for certain localities) and I can call her any time. Yes, she is in the elite union, the ones who wire nuclear power plants, hospitals etc., and one of them want to work on old residential. Some of them would turn down a hundred bucks an hour to do it. Well that's from 5 of them anyway...   Old residential is my specialty, these people do not want licenses or any of tat shit, they want a personal reference or two, and to talk and have you explain the why and why mot of a few things. They'll either forget about a permit or get a homeowner's permit. I encourage them to have my work inspected. There is almost always absolutely even remotely wrong with it, but they might find a few violations on the house I can make a few bucks fixing.   The only time Ivan the Terrible had anything to say was right when the requirement came that if you use a cold water pipe for ground it must be bypassed with clamped wires across every joint from your connection all the way to the other side of the meter. It was easier to just pound in a new ground rod, and he was pleased as punch. But that regulation had come out very recently and I hadn't caught wind of it yet. No problem, a clamp, 15 feet of green # 8 and ba da bing ba da boom.

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