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Peter Easthope <petereasthope@gmail.com>: Aug 06 08:36AM -0700 Hi,   I'm replacing the cord on the opthalmoscope illustrated. http://easthope.ca/HeineBeta200.jpg   The strain relief at the bottom of the handle, left in the photo, was released by a pair of clips on a plastic ring. The quick-connect holding the head was locked by a 2.2 mm socket setscrew in the upper thumb ring. Finding a 1.2 mm hex wrench wasn't too difficult.   Now I'm snagged to release the handle from the internal structure. Appears the handle is a tube. In the photo the outer handle should release to the left; inner part to the right. What holds these together?   Thanks, ... Peter E.

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Aug 06 09:44AM -0700 On Mon, 6 Aug 2018 08:36:24 -0700 (PDT), Peter Easthope >Appears the handle is a tube. In the photo the outer handle should >release to the left; inner part to the right. What holds these >together?   If all that's wrong is the jacket or strain relief on the cord is broken, perhaps it might be easier to repair the cord? You can get liquid vinyl and liquid rubber at the hardware store, as liquid electrical tape: <https://www.amazon.com/Gardner-Bender-LTB-400-Electrical-Waterproof/dp/B000FPAN2K> <https://plastidip.com> I've used both on various flexible cords with generally good results. Much depends on how much they are flexed. Neither vinyl nor rubber will tolerate much in the way of radical bending.   The highlight of my cord repairs was for a massage therapist. The cord to some kind of vibration/heat machine head fell apart when the new and improved massage oil she was using caused the rubber cord to crumble and fall apart in large chunks. The maker of the devices wanted $250 to replace the cord and head. Since it was officially a medical device, unsoldering the (molded) connectors and replacing just the cord, was not an option. So, I broke off the remaining crumbling rubber, dipped the cord in thinned liquid vinyl, and hung it vertically to dry. I think it took 4 thin coatings to get it right. Where were plenty of drip marks, but those could be tolerated.   I've also done similar repairs to crumbling Motorola microphone cords, power extension cords, and various molded connectors.     -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

etpm@whidbey.com: Aug 05 09:03PM -0700 >that is code or exceeding code."   >Then you don't know.   >I have found that daisy chaining a bunch of stuff off a GFCI outlet can be troublesome. First of all it causes more nuisance trips. A light over the sink is alright but not a bunch of more outlets. Even better - if you got a bunch of stuff running off of one and it trips, you don't know which outlet tripped it. The house was built about ten years ago. I looked at one circuit, in the unfinished basement. This is the one with the washing machine. Anyway, all the wires are visible. There are two receptacles downstream of the GFCI recpetacle. On the new GFCI there was a label that must be removed that covers the screws for downstream receptacles. The label states that the power to the GFCI must not be connected to the label covered screws. The screws are for connecting other receptacles after the GFCI. And the GFCI that I replaced had wires connected to it that power a couple other receptacles. So what gives? Are you saying that code requires all receptacles to be connected directly to the wires from the panel? And the receptacles after the one basement GFCI are not to code now and weren't when wired ten years ago? That the GFCI cannot be used to protect other receptacles? If this is the case then I need to at least change the wiring in the walls in the unfinished basement. Thanks, Eric

Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Aug 06 12:39AM -0500 > And the receptacles after the one basement GFCI are not > to code now and weren't when wired ten years ago? That > the GFCI cannot be used to protect other receptacles?   As usual Jurb's full of shit, ignore him.     -- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com

jurb6006@gmail.com: Aug 06 09:11AM -0700 >"As usual Jurb's full of shit, ignore him. "   You're the full of shit one here. Look at the fucking NEC - THE DEVICE CANNOT BE THE SPLICE. You stupid cunt.   There, now I have stooped to your level. Go fuck yourself.

jurb6006@gmail.com: Aug 06 09:29AM -0700 >"And the receptacles after the one basement GFCI are not to code now and weren't when wired ten years ago? That the GFCI cannot be used to protect other receptacles?"   If it was code when it got wired you don't have to change it.   They made it that way for good reason, if say you have a regular outlet, it has 4 screws for the wires. People had often fed one set of screws and then used the other set to feed more outlets. So if the outlet gets broken ad you have to replace it, in doing so you break the circuit down the line. It could have a shared neutral which means it can be dangerous even with the breaker off.   Now, you have to pigtail it, that is use wire nuts and put together your feed and fed and another set of wires to go to the outlet. It takes a little bit more time but it is required by code so every electrician worth a shit does it that way.   There are still 4 screws on outlets though, but for the right reason, that is if you want them separate like one switched or have the off separate circuits. In the past you could get away with one neutral but now with GFCIs required the neutral side bridge between the screws also has to be cut so it can have its own separate neutral.   In a pre-existing dwelling, most go with the GFCI outlets because then you don't have to worry about the neutrals. the code does not say it must be a GFCI breaker, it only says the circuit must be GFCI protected. Now if you're adding a room to the house, you might find it easy enough just to protect the whole room with a GFCI breaker - just remember everything on that circuit must share a neutral but that neutral must not be shared with anything else. Easy when you're doing it brand new, and also the code is a bit ambiguous on arcproof breakers, you might as well use one for any new construction anyway.   I know the arcproof is required on all new construction, but is a room addition considered new ? Just spend the $ 30 and get the dman thing and not have any problems, and if it is inspected they like to see that anyway. What I do is to just make SURE, and it passes every time.

"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Aug 06 09:40AM -0700 All, repeat, all neutrals are shared - at the panel. They all go into the same neutral bar, that is also grounded and typically bonded to the panel as well.   Double pole Ground-Fault BREAKERS share a neutral. And very often have unbalanced loads downstream of them.   GFIC RECEPTACLES (which are NOT breakers) should not share neutrals, and may not be cascaded without massive false tripping.   There is no reason whatsoever for a GFIC RECEPTACLE not to be downstream of a Ground-Fault BREAKER. They are fundamentally different devices and don't really 'see' each other.   No legitimate electrician would put two different legs on the same receptacle - and should any legitimate inspector find such a condition, there would be hell to pay.   I came up doing mostly old-house work, and some of my clients lived in houses first wired in 1913. One house I wired in Manayunk (Phila. neighborhood) still had its original (and working) gas lights, gas refrigerator, gas heat (gravity hot water) and gas stove. I added the first electrical system that house ever had. The owner retained all his existing systems, he wanted AC in the summer. He was also born in the house. Luckily, the front and back walls (built in 1860 +/-) were balloon framed, such that getting wiring to the second floor was not overly difficult. He wanted no overhead lights, but my boss insisted that we put some in the hallway, bathroom and over the front and back doors.   Point being that we always endeavored to have at least two circuits per room, such that if one went down, there would still be power at the other. Whereas code permitted up to ten (10) devices per circuit, we would do no more than six (6) and try to mix both receptacles and lighting. AC receptacles were always dedicated, as were refrigerators and any larger appliances. Kitchen receptacles were made to alternate by leg, so 12-3 would come up and then branch out in 12-2 to accomplish that.   It took a bit more time, a bit more wire - usually, back in those days, about $20 worth - but it made for a nicer job, fewer call-backs and a better feeling walking away.   But the basic thing to remember though this entire discussion is that Ground Fault BREAKERS are not Ground Fault RECEPTACLES. Once that is figured, the rest follows.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Aug 06 04:10AM -0700 Terry Schwartz wrote:   > Must be in original boxes. > Terry   > 6Q11/6K11 triple triode sync clipper & agc     ** Sought after by Ampeg guitar amp owners, damn had to fine any.   12-pin Compactron used in the tone circuits.       > 6DQ6 beam pentode h defl amp     ** I have just one of these in good condition with box.   Tens of thousands used in Aussie B&W TV sets in the 1960s.   Also used as a P-P output pair in some Australian made guitar amps rated at 40 watts ( see Goldentone or Playmaster) has an anode cap so eliminates the chance of socket flash overs.   .... Phil

Terry Schwartz <tschw10117@aol.com>: Aug 06 07:10AM -0700 I love it when the guitar amp guys review tubes as if they are fine coffees or beers.   "A warm sound, rich in dramatic overtones, just the essential level of comforting distortion. Tasteful notes of chocolate and ginger, with a lingering smooth afterglow of mossy oak and a slightly pungent woodsy ambiance."   Guess I won't be finding THAT tube for my tester.

Peter Easthope <petereasthope@gmail.com>: Aug 06 07:33AM -0700 Hello Terry,   Main Electronics in Vancouver, Canada had a large collection of tubes in their basement. The business is gone but contacts for the tubes are at the foot of this page. http://www.mainelectronics.com/   John's Jukes also had an extensive collection of vintage parts. They remain in business. https://www.flippers.com/ John's Jukes, 7-3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC V5J 5E3   Regards, ... Peter E.

Terry Schwartz <tschw10117@aol.com>: Aug 06 07:45AM -0700 On Monday, August 6, 2018 at 9:33:09 AM UTC-5, Peter Easthope wrote: > They remain in business. https://www.flippers.com/ > John's Jukes, 7-3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC V5J 5E3   > Regards, ... Peter E.   Thank you Peter!

jurb6006@gmail.com: Aug 06 09:06AM -0700 On Monday, August 6, 2018 at 9:10:37 AM UTC-5, Terry Schwartz wrote: > I love it when the guitar amp guys review tubes as if they are fine coffees or beers.   > "A warm sound, rich in dramatic overtones, just the essential level of comforting distortion. Tasteful notes of chocolate and ginger, with a lingering smooth afterglow of mossy oak and a slightly pungent woodsy ambiance."   > Guess I won't be finding THAT tube for my tester.   You mean your tester doesn't have a chocolate and ginger meter ?   Primitive device...

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Aug 05 10:39AM -0700 On Sun, 05 Aug 2018 03:23:54 -0400, micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com> wrote:   >Pioneer CD-MC20 Auto-EQ Microphone for Car DVD Receivers >https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-CD-MC20-Auto-EQ-Microphone-Receivers/dp/B0038PIGDW/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1533453067&sr=8-6&keywords=microphone+for+car#customerReviews   >Why does someone need a microphone for a DVD receiver.   Auto-EQ. Please read through the questions and answers at the bottom of the Amazon page.   The way it's suppose to work is you termorarily plug in the mic and place it at your favorite listening position. You then punch the Auto-EQ button, which adjusts the delays and levels to the speakers so that the player sounds reasonable. You then remove the microphone and put it some place where you can lose it. That's why there are replacement mics for sale on Amazon.   Notice that you can only adjust the equalization automatically with the microphone. There is no manual adjustment on this Pioneer player.   -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

jurb6006@gmail.com: Aug 05 12:11PM -0700 >"There is no manual adjustment on this Pioneer player. "   Hardly anyone knows how to use them anyway.

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Aug 05 01:39PM -0700 >>"There is no manual adjustment on this Pioneer player. "   >Hardly anyone knows how to use them anyway.   Just twiddle with the knobs and sliders until it sounds good. What else does one need to know?   I'm not sure if equalizing the room delays in a "room" as small as an automobile makes any sense. For an automobile CD/DVD player, the front panel would never have enough space for the necessary controls and display. Anyway, I can barely hear the music over the road noise in my car.   Drivel: I've been playing with Room EQ Wizard software for about a year: <https://www.roomeqwizard.com> So far, it has demonstrated is that I have no idea what I'm doing and that having 2 out of 4 walls in my multipurpose music room made from plate glass windows (no curtains), is a really bad idea.     -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Aug 06 08:57AM -0400 In alt.home.repair, on Sun, 5 Aug 2018 10:24:39 -0000 (UTC), Bruce >radio run the tests.   >You don't leave it in circuit, after the radio does it's thing, it's >removed.   Thanks, Bruce. (and thanks, Jeff) I n ever would have guessed. (My car radio was made in 1890.0     >Both my original radio and the current one has modes for "driver only", >"front only" and "4 passenger". It's just a tweak to get the best sound >based on how many people are in the car.   Unlike other makes, GM radios used to, maybe still do, reverse left and right for the back seat. I think that means wherever one is in the car, he gets and equal dose of left and right, instead of having to sit in the middle of the car (where no one sits.) It's a dilemma. When I drove a stage coach, I was usually alone and I always sat in the middle, so that I had the right balance of left and right.   >Unless you have a radio that does the auto configuration, there is no point >having one of those mics.   You saved me some money.

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