- What's wrong with my TV? - 6 Updates
- Heine Beta 200 opthalmoscope - 6 Updates
- SOLVED! GFCI tripping problem - 4 Updates
| oldschool@tubes.com: Aug 06 11:10PM -0500 There is something wrong with my TV. Everytime I turn it on, I see someone get shot and killed with a gun. There must be something wrong with the set. |
| Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Aug 06 11:36PM -0700 >There is something wrong with my TV. Everytime I turn it on, I see >someone get shot and killed with a gun. There must be something wrong >with the set. Leave your TV alone. It's working just fine. Every time I turn on my TV, all I see are advertisements. I would rather see someone get shot and killed with a gun than to watch and listen to endless advertisements. Consider yourself fortunate to have a TV that's free of advertising. -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
| Mike Coon <gravity@mjcoon.plus.com>: Aug 07 10:26AM +0100 In article <pbfimd1pgtl4taiffjvrbehumeej7a1332@4ax.com>, jeffl@cruzio.com says... > and killed with a gun than to watch and listen to endless > advertisements. Consider yourself fortunate to have a TV that's free > of advertising. Don't they have advertisements for guns of all legal types? Showing how lethal they are? Mike. |
| jurb6006@gmail.com: Aug 07 08:31AM -0700 > There is something wrong with my TV. Everytime I turn it on, I see > someone get shot and killed with a gun. There must be something wrong > with the set. It's the next best thing to being there. My old Sony reproduces blood color quite faithfully. Death sells because people want to kill somebody. People want to kill somebody because they got it coming. |
| Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Aug 07 08:47AM -0700 On Tue, 7 Aug 2018 10:26:04 +0100, Mike Coon <gravity@mjcoon.plus.com> wrote: >Don't they have advertisements for guns of all legal types? >Showing how lethal they are? >Mike. Actually, I have no idea. I don't watch OTA (over the air) TV or cable TV, where most of these commercials might appear. I watch YouTube, which has a few short commercials, including some involving shooting accessories and legal services. I would think that with all the TV shows full of guns, death, and mayhem, it would not be necessary to advertise that guns tend to be lethal. Well, maybe Hollyweird does engage in some deceptive advertising that could use some correcting: "Hollywood Weapons, Fact or Fiction" <https://www.netflix.com/title/81002244> -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
| "pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Aug 07 09:26AM -0700 > It's the next best thing to being there. My old Sony reproduces blood color quite faithfully. > Death sells because people want to kill somebody. > People want to kill somebody because they got it coming. That the earth would be improved by your removal from it does not make me want to kill you, or even wish in the slightest for your death or injury. It simply remains a fact. Much as the incumbent orange toad. Same general observation, but absolutely no wish that it should happen, or to attempt to precipitate said happening. On the latter, however, the toad is working briskly towards its own removal. All good. Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA |
| Peter Easthope <petereasthope@gmail.com>: Aug 06 10:47AM -0700 Thanks Jeff. Yes, the entire black plastic jacket of the cord is crumbling. It's a coily similar to the cord on an old dial telephone; cross-section a little smaller. Strain reliefs remain good. On Monday, August 6, 2018 at 9:44:42 AM UTC-7, Jeff Liebermann wrote: > ... repair the cord? ... liquid electrical tape ... Interesting idea. There is a can on the shelf here. Uncoiled the cord will be about 3-4 m long. Applying several coats of liquid, neatly, could take some hours. Your description reminds me that I've built a cord using heat shrink threaded over the end of a bundle of insulated wires. Three or 4 lengths of heat shrink with overlaps of a few inches. The clear heat-shrink remains reasonably pliable after shrinking. > Since it was officially a medical device, unsoldering the > (molded) connectors and replacing just the cord, was not an option. I have opthalmoscopes donated for use in the 3rd world. About a half dozen of them have crumbling cord jackets. No clinic in an industrialized country would accept the heat-shrink repair but a hospital lacking beds for all patients won't complain about an opthalmoscope cord which doesn't coil. And the clear heat shrink allows inspection for a broken wire. The cord hangs against the wall in a U shaped loop with power box at one end and scope at the other. If the heat shrinks are applied from the middle out toward each end, any liquid contamination will shed off. Aside from that, overlaps are tight and I don't visualize anything getting in. Any further thoughts? Thanks, ... Peter E. |
| etpm@whidbey.com: Aug 06 12:58PM -0700 On Mon, 6 Aug 2018 10:47:03 -0700 (PDT), Peter Easthope >visualize anything getting in. >Any further thoughts? >Thanks, ... Peter E. Can you get clear heat shrink with the glue inside? If so then the overlaps would be water tight. Eric |
| amdx <nojunk@knology.net>: Aug 06 06:05PM -0500 On 8/6/2018 11:44 AM, Jeff Liebermann wrote: > liquid vinyl and liquid rubber at the hardware store, as liquid > electrical tape: > <https://www.amazon.com/Gardner-Bender-LTB-400-Electrical-Waterproof/dp/B000FPAN2K> I have 100ft 12/3 extension cord that had about a 1 inch x 1/4" section of the outer insulation missing, so the previous owner threw it out. There was no damage to the internal insulation or wire. Of course I picked it up and used the above product or something very similar to effect a beautiful repair. That's been over twenty years ago and it still looks good. My only complaint about the extension cord. it's heavy! :-) On another subject, I had a medical product go bad while in use on me. It was an electrical stimulator for an acupuncturists needles. It was humming along going from low stimulation up to high and then it would drop and start again. Suddenly it went to high and stayed there! Hey, somebody help me! Doc came in and unhooked me. Next appointment I ask where it was, he said he threw it away! :-) I was was going to try to get it and try "LearnByDestoring" :-) Mikek |
| Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Aug 06 07:05PM -0700 On Mon, 6 Aug 2018 10:47:03 -0700 (PDT), Peter Easthope >Any further thoughts? In my limited experience, if the cord is starting to crumble, it will continue to crumble. If that's the case with your cord, you may find that you'll need to replace the entire jacket. I don't think that hiding the mess under a shrink tube jacket will suffice. If the rubber cord jacket cracks in some random place, the shrink tube outer jacket will be expected to handle the entire load, and probably stretch, tear, of slide apart if spliced. If possible, cut off the connectors and replace the entire cord. The problem with the liquid vinyl and liquid rubber approach is that the cord really looks awful with lumps and drip marks. Getting 3-4 meters of the stuff to look good will be difficult and require some practice. The cord I was dealing with was about 2.5 meters long. I was able to suspend it by a hook from the roof (outside), and literally paint the liquid vinyl coating over the cord. As soon as one layer was dry and fairly hard, I would apply the next coat. I tried to fix the drip marks, but only while the coating was still fluid. I don't know how much time you have to deliver, but I would try the PastiDip first on some other similar cord. If that fails, then methinks the clear shrink tube is a good 2nd best. One nice feature of any of these methods is that the cord will likely be so ugly, that nobody would consider stealing the instrument from the hospital. -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
| Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Aug 06 09:44AM -0700 On Mon, 6 Aug 2018 08:36:24 -0700 (PDT), Peter Easthope >Appears the handle is a tube. In the photo the outer handle should >release to the left; inner part to the right. What holds these >together? If all that's wrong is the jacket or strain relief on the cord is broken, perhaps it might be easier to repair the cord? You can get liquid vinyl and liquid rubber at the hardware store, as liquid electrical tape: <https://www.amazon.com/Gardner-Bender-LTB-400-Electrical-Waterproof/dp/B000FPAN2K> <https://plastidip.com> I've used both on various flexible cords with generally good results. Much depends on how much they are flexed. Neither vinyl nor rubber will tolerate much in the way of radical bending. The highlight of my cord repairs was for a massage therapist. The cord to some kind of vibration/heat machine head fell apart when the new and improved massage oil she was using caused the rubber cord to crumble and fall apart in large chunks. The maker of the devices wanted $250 to replace the cord and head. Since it was officially a medical device, unsoldering the (molded) connectors and replacing just the cord, was not an option. So, I broke off the remaining crumbling rubber, dipped the cord in thinned liquid vinyl, and hung it vertically to dry. I think it took 4 thin coatings to get it right. Where were plenty of drip marks, but those could be tolerated. I've also done similar repairs to crumbling Motorola microphone cords, power extension cords, and various molded connectors. -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
| Peter Easthope <petereasthope@gmail.com>: Aug 07 09:24AM -0700 Aug 6 et...@whidbey.com wrote, > Can you get clear heat shrink with the glue inside? If so then the > overlaps would be water tight. Thanks. I didn't know such a product exists. The cable won't be submerged. If the shrink is sized properly the overlaps should be tight. Incursion of contaminant shouldn't be a problem. Will see how the first repair turns out. Aug 6 Jeff Liebermann > continue to crumble. If that's the case with your cord, you may find > that you'll need to replace the entire jacket. I don't think that > hiding the mess under a shrink tube jacket will suffice. I aim to break off the entire crumbling jacket before enclosing the wires in the heat shrink. At the ends, two layers of shrink might be necessary to fill the strain relief. For durability, two layers can be applied on the entire cord but that will make it stiffer. Eventually heat shrink will deteriorate but it seems to survive better than ordinary vinyl jacketing. Pertinent information here. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heat-shrink_tubing The local retail electronics shops have only one or possibly two materials. Nothing like the variety described in Wikipedia. > One nice feature of any of these methods is that the cord will likely > be so ugly, that nobody would consider stealing the instrument from > the hospital. I've heard of copper plumbing being stolen in Accra. Will ask friends whether they've ever encountered theft of instrumentation. FWIIW, most people are honest unless they are starving. A Starbow airline staff refused a tip after retrieving a forgotten tablet. Thanks for the feedback. Will try a repair and report the results. ... P. |
| Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Aug 06 12:53PM -0500 >> "As usual Jurb's full of shit, ignore him." > You're the full of shit one here. Look at the fucking NEC - THE DEVICE CANNOT BE THE SPLICE. You stupid cunt. > There, now I have stooped to your level. Go fuck yourself. And you're reply is about what I expected from you. <https://www.leviton.com/en/docs/LC_MO_PDF_EL_7299_INSTRUCTION.pdf> <https://www.ecmweb.com/code-basics/nec-requirements-ground-fault-circuit-interrupters-gfci> -- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com |
| etpm@whidbey.com: Aug 06 11:22AM -0700 >There are still 4 screws on outlets though, but for the right reason, that is if you want them separate like one switched or have the off separate circuits. In the past you could get away with one neutral but now with GFCIs required the neutral side bridge between the screws also has to be cut so it can have its own separate neutral. >In a pre-existing dwelling, most go with the GFCI outlets because then you don't have to worry about the neutrals. the code does not say it must be a GFCI breaker, it only says the circuit must be GFCI protected. Now if you're adding a room to the house, you might find it easy enough just to protect the whole room with a GFCI breaker - just remember everything on that circuit must share a neutral but that neutral must not be shared with anything else. Easy when you're doing it brand new, and also the code is a bit ambiguous on arcproof breakers, you might as well use one for any new construction anyway. >I know the arcproof is required on all new construction, but is a room addition considered new ? Just spend the $ 30 and get the dman thing and not have any problems, and if it is inspected they like to see that anyway. What I do is to just make SURE, and it passes every time. I looked online and could not find anything that says I cannot power other receptacles from the GFCI or that I have to use pigtails from the GFCI to the wires that go to the other receptacles. I took the GFCI out to look at it again and two screws are marked LINE and the other pair marked LOAD. There is no neutral bridge between the neutral screws on the GFCI. Are you saying that current code does not allow any other receptacles to be connected to the LOAD screws on the GFCI? Is that what you mean by using the GFCI as a splice? If not then please correct me because I am obvioulsy missing something. Thanks, Eric |
| jurb6006@gmail.com: Aug 06 11:29AM -0700 >"And you're reply is about what I expected from you. " And your (or would that be "you're" as in "you are" ?) links prove nothing. However I did find that apparently device can't be the splice is local, not NEC. It is still bad practice in any case. I do things right and I tell people to do things right. You want to call the city to find out if you can do it the cheap and dirty way ? Go right ahead and have a job that "passes" rather than is "good". Or you can just do it right and not worry about it. |
| jurb6006@gmail.com: Aug 06 11:33AM -0700 >"I looked online and could not find anything that says I cannot power other receptacles from the GFCI or that I have to use pigtails from the GFCI to the wires that go to the other receptacles." I stand corrected, that is a local thing. On regular outlets it is bad practice, but on a GFCI outlet, that neutral coming off the protected terminal is not going to be shared anyway, it would trip as soon as the other thing turns on. I would only do it on a new circuit, you KNOW how that is connected. |
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