Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 4 updates in 1 topic

Tim R <timothy42b@aol.com>: Oct 29 06:53AM -0700

I had the ballast in an old two tube T12 fluorescent fixture go bad.
 
The local big box had direct replacement LED tubes on sale, so I tried them. They wire directly to line current, no external ballast, but the tubes fit in the old tombstone connectors.
 
They work fine; they start at full brightness even when the room is cold, unlike the old fluorescents they replaced. BUT there is a long delay between flipping the switch and seeing them start. It's on the order of 1 - 2 seconds, I haven't tried measuring yet.
 
We've been discussing this on another forum. Why would there be a delay? It's not unique to mine, either, others have noticed similar results.
John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Oct 29 07:07AM -0700

On Monday, October 29, 2018 at 9:53:34 AM UTC-4, Tim R wrote:
 
> The local big box had direct replacement LED tubes on sale, so I tried them. They wire directly to line current, no external ballast, but the tubes fit in the old tombstone connectors.
 
> They work fine; they start at full brightness even when the room is cold, unlike the old fluorescents they replaced. BUT there is a long delay between flipping the switch and seeing them start. It's on the order of 1 - 2 seconds, I haven't tried measuring yet.
 
> We've been discussing this on another forum. Why would there be a delay? It's not unique to mine, either, others have noticed similar results.
 
I picked up some 8' LED bulbs to retrofit the fixtures at my store, and they start immediately.
 
https://www.amazon.com/CNSUNWAY-LIGHTING-Dual-End-Replacement-Fluorescent/dp/B06VX4562H/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1540821784&sr=8-3&keywords=8%27+led+flourescent+tube+replacement
 
But, they do have an input range between 100 and like 270VAC. There is some sort of circuitry inside that keeps the current consistent as LEDs act a lot like zeners when it comes to over-volting them.
 
Do you have a link to the lamps you bought?
Stephen Wolstenholme <steve@easynn.com>: Oct 29 02:11PM

On Mon, 29 Oct 2018 06:53:31 -0700 (PDT), Tim R <timothy42b@aol.com>
wrote:
 
 
>The local big box had direct replacement LED tubes on sale, so I tried them. They wire directly to line current, no external ballast, but the tubes fit in the old tombstone connectors.
 
>They work fine; they start at full brightness even when the room is cold, unlike the old fluorescents they replaced. BUT there is a long delay between flipping the switch and seeing them start. It's on the order of 1 - 2 seconds, I haven't tried measuring yet.
 
>We've been discussing this on another forum. Why would there be a delay? It's not unique to mine, either, others have noticed similar results.
 
All LEDs have some start delay. Even the original ones used for
indicators had a short delay. It's while the electrons fill the
electron holes where they should be.
 
Steve
 
--
http://www.npsnn.com
Tim R <timothy42b@aol.com>: Oct 29 08:23AM -0700

On Monday, October 29, 2018 at 10:07:39 AM UTC-4, John-Del wrote:
 
> https://www.amazon.com/CNSUNWAY-LIGHTING-Dual-End-Replacement-Fluorescent/dp/B06VX4562H/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1540821784&sr=8-3&keywords=8%27+led+flourescent+tube+replacement
 
> But, they do have an input range between 100 and like 270VAC. There is some sort of circuitry inside that keeps the current consistent as LEDs act a lot like zeners when it comes to over-volting them.
 
> Do you have a link to the lamps you bought?
 
That's interesting. Yours are dual end powered (have to wire to both tombstones.)
 
Mine are single end 4 foot tubes. They require a nonshunted tombstone, which I was lucky enough to already have, but changing them out isn't hard. The power wires go to only one end, and there was plenty of wire there to not have to splice.
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