- Home LED Flickers - 13 Updates
- Home LED Flickers - 1 Update
- Anyone ever restuffed bumble bee caps? - 2 Updates
| tubeguy@myshop.com: Dec 11 06:44PM -0600 I got a 60W Equliv. LED bulb in a fixture that flickers all the time. Its not very old. It does produce enough light but gets annoying after awhile. They only cost a buck or two, so i'll just replace it, but I wonder what is causing the flicker? My guess is a cheap electrolytic in the rectifier, but I have never really seen a schematic for how they are wired. |
| mike <ham789@netzero.net>: Dec 11 06:23PM -0800 > Its not very old. It does produce enough light but gets annoying after > awhile. They only cost a buck or two, so i'll just replace it, but I > wonder what is causing the flicker? Does the fixture wire it directly to the mains or does it have some kind of switching, wireless, touch, dimmer, anything but direct wire to the mains? What's your definition of flicker? Some bulbs have noticeable flicker at line frequency. Most flicker at a much lower rate if you put some electronics in the middle. It's the electronics that expects the resistive load of an incandescent that flickers. |
| Terry Schwartz <tschw10117@aol.com>: Dec 11 07:38PM -0800 > wonder what is causing the flicker? > My guess is a cheap electrolytic in the rectifier, but I have never > really seen a schematic for how they are wired. I have some similar bulbs in a bathroom fixture. They flicker when the wife runs a certain curling iron on the same circuit. Is there anything else running on your lighting circuit? |
| Jeff Layman <jmlayman@invalid.invalid>: Dec 12 07:24AM > wonder what is causing the flicker? > My guess is a cheap electrolytic in the rectifier, but I have never > really seen a schematic for how they are wired. Was the bulb holder designed for an LED or was it originally for a filament bulb? Some of the smaller LEDs, such as G9, can overheat in a non-ventilated holder. This can show as flickering; usually it's the power control chip rather than the LEDs themselves which goes first. The bulb will eventually fail. -- Jeff |
| Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Dec 12 12:29AM -0800 > I got a 60W Equliv. ** So about 11 watts power draw. > LED bulb in a fixture that flickers all the time. ** Try a different and newer fixture, the low current draw often requires the metal parts to be cleaner and freer of tarnish than is often the case. > My guess is a cheap electrolytic in the rectifier, ** Nuts. .... Phil |
| tabbypurr@gmail.com: Dec 12 02:39AM -0800 > wonder what is causing the flicker? > My guess is a cheap electrolytic in the rectifier, but I have never > really seen a schematic for how they are wired. Tell us the nature of the flicker. Very fast & completely consistent would be a rectifier/smoothing issue. Irregular flicker would be a bad connection or less likely a dying LED. NT |
| Pat <forums@greensdomain.com>: Dec 12 07:06AM -0500 >>My guess is a cheap electrolytic in the rectifier, but I have never >>really seen a schematic for how they are wired. >A buck or two ? $1.77 ea at Home Depot (US Dollars) |
| bje@ripco.com: Dec 12 12:31PM > A buck or two ? Yeah but it depends where you live. Here in Chicago you can walk in just about anywhere and expect to pay .99 to maybe $1.49 for a 60W led standard bulb. The reason being, the local electric company got dick slapped for rate increases which went to executive salaries, bahama vacations and golden parachutes instead of the "infrastructure improvements" they claimed what they were for. After the states attorney and citizens utility board got them to audit their books, the truth came out. So their rates were frozen for 10 years and then for a period of time I'm not sure of, have to subsidize the costs of energy saving devices, which led bulbs fall under. They also pay you $50 for replacing some older appliances. I'm not sure they still do it, haven't looked, but like Home Depot even had a special rack for the subsidized bulbs. I though it was odd but some of them available were 100W incandesent ones, but they only used 80W of electric but gave out the same amount of light. Those were considered energy saving too. It's about the only bargain with living in Chicago these days. -bruce bje@ripco.com |
| "pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Dec 12 05:26AM -0800 I am presently managing replacement of all incandescent/fluorescent fixtures in just over 1,000,000 square feet of medical offices, research labs and a medical school on a single campus. There are two parts of an LED lamp/fixture. a) The LED emitters themselves: These are pretty generic beasts, and while not-quite-one-size-fits-all, the same emitter may provide light from between 3000K to 5000K. They are also pretty bullet-proof. b) The "Driver" - which is a device that takes current from some source and makes it into what the emitters want for a particular type (Temperature and CRI) of output. Common failure modes are: flickering - 90% - and what you are experiencing. Massive RF output - 5% - so massive as to even step on cell phones and blue-tooth frequencies on rare occasions, but mostly lower bands. *POOF* on start - 5% Sometimes more than one fault per item. Whereas these drivers are not delicate items, they fail often enough as that such a failure should surprise no one. Our installing contractor states that failures on commercial-grade devices are somewhere between 0.25% and 2.5% depending on the country-of-origin of the drivers, and where the devices are assembled. Consumer-grade devices experience a much higher failure rate. Most failures occur within the first 4-6 hours of use. Keep the receipt, and return the flickering item. Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA |
| tabbypurr@gmail.com: Dec 12 06:37AM -0800 > There are two parts of an LED lamp/fixture. > a) The LED emitters themselves: These are pretty generic beasts, and while not-quite-one-size-fits-all, the same emitter may provide light from between 3000K to 5000K. They are also pretty bullet-proof. in excellent quality lamps maybe. Not at all bullet-proof in domestic LED lights. NT |
| "pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Dec 12 07:18AM -0800 > > There are two parts of an LED lamp/fixture. > > a) The LED emitters themselves: These are pretty generic beasts, and while not-quite-one-size-fits-all, the same emitter may provide light from between 3000K to 5000K. They are also pretty bullet-proof. > in excellent quality lamps maybe. Not at all bullet-proof in domestic LED lights. Possibly true, but the failure mode of an emitter is not flicker. Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA |
| tabbypurr@gmail.com: Dec 12 07:36AM -0800 > Possibly true, but the failure mode of an emitter is not flicker. > Peter Wieck > Melrose Park, PA sometimes it is, but more often not. NT |
| "pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Dec 12 08:00AM -0800 As an LED is a go/no-go device, flicker is indicative of a condition outside the emitter. Full stop. Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA |
| KenW <ken1943@invalid.net>: Dec 11 06:40PM -0700 >wonder what is causing the flicker? >My guess is a cheap electrolytic in the rectifier, but I have never >really seen a schematic for how they are wired. A buck or two ? |
| tubeguy@myshop.com: Dec 11 01:08AM -0600 I was watching some youtube videos for restuffing electrolytics and wax paper caps. I see no reason to do the wax paper ones, but I may try a electrolytic can some day. But nowhere did they show anyone restuffing the bumble bees. I dont plan to do it, but I'd like to see if its possible. Those were some of the most colorful caps ever made, and those would be the ones I'd want to preserve, if I had a lot of time to waste. |
| tubeguy@myshop.com: Dec 11 06:36PM -0600 On Tue, 11 Dec 2018 04:44:18 -0800 (PST), John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com> wrote: >> possible. Those were some of the most colorful caps ever made, and those >> would be the ones I'd want to preserve, if I had a lot of time to waste. >I will usually restuff a can electro just to keep things tidy, but I never understood the need to restuff leaded caps. I restored an Fender amp for a guy who wanted the wax caps restuffed, and he paid for the time. So.. >I've never restuffed a Bumblebee, but maybe locking it down and boring with a small lathe will give adequate room without destroying the case. Capping it with black epoxy and shaping with a Dremel may give the look you want. >What ever floats your boat. A yt video shows the easy way to restuff wax-paper types. He heats them with a heat gun and pulls out the guts. Real easy..... But the epoxy coated ones seem a lot more difficult. Id like to design a tool to easily open the crimped over bottom edge on alum can caps. |
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