sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Google Groups

three_jeeps <jjhudak@gmail.com>: Dec 10 09:06AM -0800 On Saturday, December 8, 2018 at 11:43:27 PM UTC-5, Jeff Liebermann wrote: > are also version with a "stiff" cable, which I've found quite useful. > However, the apps all suck, the construction marginal, the Hi-Fi and > BT versions are buggy, but for the price, all this can be tolerated.   I've used a few similar borescopes...the resolution of 640x480 is OK for seeing what is there but beyond that, fairly useless. The image distortion bothered me quite a bit as well. Having said that, do you know of any produce with a higher resolution and better app?

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Dec 10 01:18PM -0800 On Mon, 10 Dec 2018 09:06:52 -0800 (PST), three_jeeps >distortion bothered me quite a bit as well. >Having said that, do you know of any produce with a higher resolution >and better app?   Unfortunately, I'm going to have a high resolution endoscope used on a very sensitive part of my anatomy tomorrow at the local surgery center. I might ask the doctor for his favorite model, but suspect he'll ignore me claiming that I'm drugged or delirious.   This looks fishy, but might be for real. 9mm dia (instead of the usual 8mm) and 2megapixels in 1600x1200 with a 1/6th inch imager. <https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=0XR-00BA-00024>   Compare with the real thing (for $4,000 and up): <https://www.stryker.com/us/en/endoscopy.html> <https://www.stryker.com/us/en/portfolios/medical-surgical-equipment/surgical-visualization.html>   I've found the Android and iPhone imaging software to be dismal or worse. All that I've tried will crash with the slightest provocation. Accidentally disconnecting the camera for even milliseconds often requires a forced reboot. I have this bookmarked for later testing. Might be worth trying: <http://www.oasisscientific.com/downloads.html>   Incidentally, the best high resolution photos I've done were with a commodity digital camera, junkbox optics, and a commercial endoscope. I make the adapter out of plastic plumbing parts turned down to size on my drill press. Ugly, but amazingly useful. Something bolted onto a smartphone might produce decent results: <https://www.endoscope-i.com>     -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

bitrex <user@example.net>: Dec 03 09:27PM -0500 On 12/03/2018 09:05 PM, Clifford Heath wrote: > and solder the other side. Make sure the track has wettable surfaces > exposed first, or course.   > Clifford Heath.   Thanks, will try. Even with magnification, smallest tip I have and a Zen meditation session beforehand I'm not sure I'm precise enough to pull this off but I'll take a shot at it

Look165 <look165@numericable.fr>: Dec 04 11:44AM +0100 CircuitWorks provide conductive ink pens.   From my own experience, try first on something else.   bitrex a écrit :

bitrex <user@example.net>: Dec 03 08:53PM -0500 Due to an unfortuante jab with the head of a screwdriver it looks like I have at least one, possibly two broken traces on this GPU card, on the traces running between the processor and VRAM. Result is corrupted display output/won't switch into high-resolution modes. The ram is BGA and the GPU likewise and under a small heat-sink so hard to test continuity, plus the trace width is very small, looks like perhaps 4 mil:   <https://www.dropbox.com/s/ig9h3vjze5omlie/2018-12-3%2018-11-20.jpg?dl=0>   Palette inverted:   <https://www.dropbox.com/s/m05pikt3yexq2f6/2018-12-3%2018-11-30.jpg?dl=0>   Any suggestions for mending a break on a trace like this?

Sjouke Burry <burrynulnulfour@ppllaanneett.nnll>: Dec 04 03:59AM +0100 On 4-12-2018 3:05, Clifford Heath wrote: > and solder the other side. Make sure the track has wettable surfaces > exposed first, or course.   > Clifford Heath.   +20

Clifford Heath <no.spam@please.net>: Dec 04 01:05PM +1100 On 4/12/18 12:53 pm, bitrex wrote:   > Palette inverted:   > <https://www.dropbox.com/s/m05pikt3yexq2f6/2018-12-3%2018-11-30.jpg?dl=0>   > Any suggestions for mending a break on a trace like this?   Fine wire. Pre-tin it, solder to one side of the break, pull straight and solder the other side. Make sure the track has wettable surfaces exposed first, or course.   Clifford Heath.

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Dec 04 08:34AM On 04/12/2018 01:53, bitrex wrote:   > Palette inverted:   > <https://www.dropbox.com/s/m05pikt3yexq2f6/2018-12-3%2018-11-30.jpg?dl=0>   > Any suggestions for mending a break on a trace like this?   Assuming only light currents. Lightly abraid in that area , to enough bare traces, cover with silver-loaded paint. When perfectly dry, score parallel lines with a scalpel blade . Check for any bridging before perhaps coating with lacquer

dplatt@coop.radagast.org (Dave Platt): Dec 03 05:15PM -0800 In article <v6ib0eprmjiaikh9i355ns2tiqvirgk07q@4ax.com>, > A parameter who's function is not listed in the book so I >didn't know what it did. But I had written down all the parameters >when I bought the machine   Very wise!   > All I did was change a 0 back to a 1. I wonder how the damn >parameter changed in the first place?   Might have been a bit flip in memory somewhere (cosmic ray, bad IC, etc.).   Or, is possible to change those parameters under software control that doesn't require the manual "parameter unlock" switch? A garbled command sent to the device - even a one-character error in transmission - might have "silently" changed a parameter in an unexpected way.   Or, maybe, this parameter was changed as a side-effect of some other (legal and reasonable) command?

etpm@whidbey.com: Dec 03 04:41PM -0800 I live on an island and it is hard to get CNC repair people out to look at the machines. So I fix 'em myself. The Miyano lathe developed a problem last week. It refused to execute one particular M code, the spindle speed could no longer be controlled in a program, the jog spindle speed dial now controlled speed even in auto mode when it should not, and the "used up" alarm came on after every part. I called FANUC and they figured it was a particular circuit board. I found one on eBay and ordered it. But it's a week and a half away. I checked all the diagnostic parameters and everthing was fine. Then this afternoon I checked the regular parameters and one had changed. A parameter who's function is not listed in the book so I didn't know what it did. But I had written down all the parameters when I bought the machine, they are mostly 8 digits long, just ones and zeros, but some are otherwise, such as backlash amounts, which are entered as some multiple of one ten thousandth of an inch. The machine was used when I bought it so some of the original parameters could have changed, like backlash. And I have changed parameters too in order to get the machine to do things it did not do when I bought it. So I got into the back of the machine, where all the high voltage is, along with the computer, opened up the computer enclosure and flipped the parameter change switch. Then I used the control keyboard to change the parameter back to where it was, got back behind the lathe and flipped the parameter switch, cleared the alarm that happens whenever a parameter is changed, and the machine now works great. All I did was change a 0 back to a 1. I wonder how the damn parameter changed in the first place? Anyway, I am really happy now. Really happy. I mean REALLY HAPPY! Eric

etpm@whidbey.com: Dec 03 05:35PM -0800 On Mon, 3 Dec 2018 17:15:36 -0800, dplatt@coop.radagast.org (Dave Platt) wrote:   >unexpected way.   >Or, maybe, this parameter was changed as a side-effect of some other >(legal and reasonable) command? As far as I know there is no way, oiher than flipping the parameter switch, to change parameters. And besides, it worked one day and then whenturned on the next day did not. Eric

etpm@whidbey.com: Dec 04 09:15AM -0800 On Mon, 3 Dec 2018 23:21:10 -0500, Ralph Mowery >a year or so.   >When memory chips first came out, it was said that the coverings of them >might emit an alpha partical and flip a bit. I figure it was a cosmic ray. Maybe my machine has a nuetrino detector in it! 1 detection in many years fits the bill. How many years I don't know but the machine has been around a long time. I could wrap the machine in lead to protect it but I don't have any two light years thick pieces. Eric

etpm@whidbey.com: Dec 03 05:39PM -0800 On Mon, 3 Dec 2018 17:17:18 -0800, John Robertson <spam@flippers.com> wrote:   >(batter or propane is easiest) if it requires unsoldering. Extend the >wiring to it so it is away from any electronics...   >John :-#)# The machine does have battery backup. An alarm condition tells you when it is time to replace batteries. FANUC controls are very good at telling you when it is time to change batteries. Nevertheless I always change batteries on a schedule so the alarm has only happened once, shortly after I bought the machine. Eric

Lucifer <LuciferMorningstar@bigpond.com>: Dec 02 10:35PM +1100 On Sun, 2 Dec 2018 01:31:27 -0600, Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net> wrote:   >> off yet but I'm thinking the VFO variable capacitor is being >> prevented from full movement.   >There isn't a VFO capacitor. The radio uses phase locked loops.   Thank you for your reply and the manual links, however you are wrong about the VFO capacitor. It uses the PLL to select the band and the VFO to tune within the band. The Kenwood R-1000 works the same way.

Tim Schwartz <tim@bristolnj.com>: Dec 03 03:21PM -0500 Hi there,   CTS (Chicago Telephone Supply) is a different company. You can find a company history, in annoying reverse order, so you have to scoll from the bottom up, here:   https://www.ctscorp.com/company/history/   Regards, Tim     On 12/3/2018 8:12 AM, John-Del wrote:

Tim Schwartz <tim@bristolnj.com>: Dec 03 03:23PM -0500 Hi there,   CTS (Chicago Telephone Supply) is a different company. You can find a company history, in annoying reverse order, so you have to scroll from the bottom up, here:   https://www.ctscorp.com/company/history/   Regards, Tim     On 12/3/2018 8:12 AM, John-Del wrote:

etpm@whidbey.com: Dec 03 09:15AM -0800 On Sun, 2 Dec 2018 19:38:33 -0500, Tom Biasi <tombiasi@optonline.net> wrote:   >> Eric   >I'm just curious as to what product has that spec. 110 VAC on an old >amplifier means line voltage in North America. The 5% is odd to me. Nobsound. Who knows why the spec but I don't want to burn up expensive tubes prematurely. Eric

Tom Biasi <tombiasi@optonline.net>: Dec 03 12:49PM -0500 > Nobsound. Who knows why the spec but I don't want to burn up expensive > tubes prematurely. > Eric   Do you have a model number?

Michael Black <mblack@pubnix.net>: Dec 03 02:34PM -0500 On Sun, 2 Dec 2018, The Real Bev wrote:   > before asking. The problem is crud between the screen and the frame. > Carefully drag the corner of a piece of ordinary paper under the edge all the > way around. Yeah, I was suspicious too, but it worked!   That's interesting, I wonder what other devices might suffer in the same way?   I got a TomTom One GPS for ten dollars at a rummage sale, and the touch aspect seemed flakey initially, but after charging and some use, all seems fine. I got a PDA last year, and the touch screen (you needed a stylus) seems unrepsonsive, I was wondering what might be involved, not that it really matters, it was a few dollars and I have no real use for one.   Michael

The Real Bev <bashley101@gmail.com>: Dec 03 12:07PM -0800 On 12/03/2018 11:34 AM, Michael Black wrote: > fine. I got a PDA last year, and the touch screen (you needed a stylus) > seems unrepsonsive, I was wondering what might be involved, not that it > really matters, it was a few dollars and I have no real use for one.   So haul it out and try it. Surely you didn't throw it away...   How do the edges know which spot on the screen was touched? Was the bit of crud in ONE specific place that somehow allowed the whole thing to work, like a ground connection or something? Is the whole thing like a required ground connection and a bit of crud somehow breaks that connection? The website guy used paper; what if I'd used a tiny bit of toothpick sliver or wire or plastic?   I have an older Lenovo laptop with a touchscreen that I rarely use; it must have a frame. If it ever goes wonky I'll try it.   -- Cheers, Bev I'd rather not have neighbors. If I can see them, they're too close. In fact, if I can see them through a rifle scope, they're too close. -- Anonymous Coward

burfordTjustice <burfordTjustice@tues.uk>: Dec 04 10:08AM +0100 Post in violation of terms-of-service cancelled by Sir Cancelot <cancelbot@eternal-september.org> From: burfordTjustice <burfordTjustice@tues.uk> Subject: Re: WD-40 to clean electric contacts? Message-ID: <oe85dn$6fb$3@dont-email.me> Newsgroups: alt.home.repair,sci.electronics.repair

"BurfordTJustice" <burford/associate@uk.MI15>: Dec 04 10:42AM +0100 Post in violation of terms-of-service cancelled by Sir Cancelot <cancelbot@eternal-september.org> From: "BurfordTJustice" <burford/associate@uk.MI15> Subject: Re: Why won't this work? Message-ID: <pad7e7$hhr$1@dont-email.me> Newsgroups: sci.electronics.repair,alt.home.repair

whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com>: Dec 10 05:08PM -0800 On Sunday, December 9, 2018 at 9:02:42 AM UTC-8, Ron D. wrote: > > I had an EICO FET TVM. I still have it. ... > > I doubt the cabeling matters and RG-58 would probably suffice.   > You can get RG174 and other cable by th foot. e.g. https://www.showmecables.com/bulk-rg174-coaxial-cable-26-awg-per-ft   The center conductor on RG174 is flimsy, RG-58 or RG-59 are somewhat more mechanically robust (but the insulation will have to be replaced, or spliced to a few inches of more flexible wire). For any non-RF work, microphone cable (shielded pair) might also be useful.

Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Dec 10 10:58AM -0600 >> the ± nature of it. >> It is not, the primary is single phase.   > 3 phase has an angle between each phase of 360/3 = 120 degrees.   Correct.   > 2 phase has an angle between each phase of 360/2 = 180 degrees. > And that's what you have with the US domestic 120/240 system.   Absolutely NOT. That is center tapped single phase. In the early days of electrical generation, there was 2-phase, but the two phases were offset by 90 degrees.   -- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Dec 10 09:06AM -0800 On Monday, 10 December 2018 16:58:22 UTC, Fox's Mercantile wrote:   > > 2 phase has an angle between each phase of 360/2 = 180 degrees. > > And that's what you have with the US domestic 120/240 system.   > Absolutely NOT. That is center tapped single phase.   It's one of the 3 phase distribution system's phases, centre tapped, that is its source. That does not change the fact that it's 2 phase.   > In the early days of electrical generation, there was 2-phase, but the > two phases were offset by 90 degrees.   I've read various times of 2 phase systems with 180 degree offset, but not seen 90 degrees.     NT

You received this digest because you're subscribed to updates for this group. You can change your settings on the group membership page. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it send an email to sci.electronics.repair+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.