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bitrex <user@example.net>: Mar 26 02:22PM -0400 I have a Lenovo Ideapad 520 less than a year old, bought directly off their web site on sale last April. It's failed, no power up. Trying to get a warranty service on it but unfortunately I can't find a serial number on the mfer anywhere. Usually it's on a sticker or placard on the bottom, I have another Lenovo lappy that's like that but this one got nothing. Just a Windows hologram-sticker and a FCC wireless module sticker. Perhaps it fell off. Usually they're on a small placard that's hard to remove accidentally, tho.   Their online system has no record of my order, all I have at this point is a credit card statement showing the date of purchase and payment. Their support department says that's no good, without a serial number I've got nothing. Might it be somewhere inside? Looks like it's supposed to be an 8 digit serial.   Uneasy feeling that the one I bought perhaps simply never had one. On sale...

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Mar 26 11:31AM -0700 On 2019/03/26 11:22 a.m., bitrex wrote: > to be an 8 digit serial.   > Uneasy feeling that the one I bought perhaps simply never had one. On > sale...   Don't you save email receipts?   That would be an argument against just handling email by one's phone and not backing up on a desktop. I use POP for that reason, and I don't automatically delete email from the server for a week in case the computer goes wonky.   Consider that clouds go away. Amazon, Fujitsu, and other clouds have all lost data...local backup is best.   John

bitrex <user@example.net>: Mar 26 02:42PM -0400 On 3/26/19 2:31 PM, John Robertson wrote:   > Consider that clouds go away. Amazon, Fujitsu, and other clouds have all > lost data...local backup is best.   > John   Not this one, apparently. 'supposed to be why I make an account with them to order and _they_ keep a damn database for! :(

bitrex <user@example.net>: Mar 26 02:44PM -0400 On 3/26/19 2:42 PM, bitrex wrote:   >> John   > Not this one, apparently. 'supposed to be why I make an account with > them to order and _they_ keep a damn database for! :(   I'm trying their forums to see if anyone there got some answers, at least they do seem to be frequented by tech support.

Adrian Caspersz <email@here.invalid>: Mar 26 06:56PM On 26/03/2019 18:22, bitrex wrote: > to be an 8 digit serial.   > Uneasy feeling that the one I bought perhaps simply never had one. On > sale...   Personally drop it in to your local Lenovo centre?   https://support.lenovo.com/gb/en/solutions/ht104448   https://lenovo.secure.force.com/bplocator/   -- Adrian C

bitrex <user@example.net>: Mar 26 03:02PM -0400 On 3/26/19 2:56 PM, Adrian Caspersz wrote:   > Personally drop it in to your local Lenovo centre?   > https://support.lenovo.com/gb/en/solutions/ht104448   > https://lenovo.secure.force.com/bplocator/   Thanks that might be the best option at this point. Nearest location is only 35 miles away. Sigh...

bitrex <user@example.net>: Mar 26 03:03PM -0400 On 3/26/19 2:59 PM, KenW wrote: > My HP laptop has the serial # on the box not on the laptop.   It might have been there but if I saved the cardboard boxes for everything I've bought I'd have no room in my one bedroom condo for the things, anymore. :(

bitrex <user@example.net>: Mar 26 03:06PM -0400 On 3/26/19 2:59 PM, KenW wrote: > My HP laptop has the serial # on the box not on the laptop.   I have a cheaper Lenovo that has a very nice serial number placard right on the bottom, why they didn't bother to do that with a laptop that costs three times more I couldn't tell ya.

dansabrservices@yahoo.com: Mar 26 12:30PM -0700 Remove the battery and check there. Since these numbers can be worn off with use, some manufacturers place the model and serial number information under the battery.   Dan

Look165 <look165@numericable.fr>: Mar 26 09:22PM +0100 You ca get it with "HW32info".   bitrex a écrit le 26/03/2019 à 19:22 :

Adrian Caspersz <email@here.invalid>: Mar 26 08:23PM > Remove the battery and check there. Since these numbers can be worn off with use, some manufacturers place the model and serial number information under the battery.   It's sad that the board doesn't boot, as some manufacturers do record the serial number in the motherboard BIOS.   If it were an old Thinkpad, the BIOS contents would be stored in an ATMEL 24rf08 eeproms - and ye could actually read it with some RFID wand thingy.   But it's not ... :(   -- Adrian C

Andy Burns <usenet@andyburns.uk>: Mar 26 08:44PM bitrex wrote:   > I can't find a serial number   Open a powershell window and type (or paste) in the following command   get-ciminstance win32_bios | format-list serialnumber

three_jeeps <jjhudak@gmail.com>: Mar 26 09:57AM -0700 > > j   > like so many documents, too many errors early in the piece to finish reading.   > NT   Care to elaborate on the errors? aside from the dead links....

Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com>: Mar 26 07:23PM On Tue, 26 Mar 2019 07:25:30 -0700, tabbypurr wrote:   > Which part of a microwave is even capable of explosion? And how would > said explosion result in electrocution?   Seems some poor, terrified folk here appear to believe defusing an IED to be less of a hazard than fixing a common domestic appliance!         -- This message may be freely reproduced without limit or charge only via the Usenet protocol. Reproduction in whole or part through other protocols, whether for profit or not, is conditional upon a charge of GBP10.00 per reproduction. Publication in this manner via non-Usenet protocols constitutes acceptance of this condition.

Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com>: Mar 26 07:25PM On Tue, 26 Mar 2019 07:26:39 -0700, tabbypurr wrote:     >> > You cannot check a HV diode.   >> I just have! Maybe it's YOU who has a problem with them?   > Put the diode in series with a 15w filament lamp, connect to mains.   The barrier height potential of a HV diode isn't that great that it can't be more safely checked with a simple 9V battery. That's what I used and it's perfectly OK for the purpose.         -- This message may be freely reproduced without limit or charge only via the Usenet protocol. Reproduction in whole or part through other protocols, whether for profit or not, is conditional upon a charge of GBP10.00 per reproduction. Publication in this manner via non-Usenet protocols constitutes acceptance of this condition.

"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Mar 26 12:33PM -0700 On Tuesday, March 26, 2019 at 3:23:05 PM UTC-4, Cursitor Doom wrote:     > Seems some poor, terrified folk here appear to believe defusing an IED to > be less of a hazard than fixing a common domestic appliance!   Not so much. What it comes down to is that a microwave oven is a commodity cheaply available and generally pretty reliable, that also, with basic care will last very nearly indefinitely. In the 40 years I have used such devices, I can state with absolute specificity that I have never had to trash such a unit for failure. Wear, cosmetics, unsuitability, sure. But total failure, no.   The most expensive unit we own is at our summer house, an over-stove device with pretty much every bell and whistle out there, including the wash-car, walk-dog options. Which we purchased on-sale for $150. We have a equally "optimized" counter-top unit at home that we got for $115, and it just turned 10. We have no place for an over-counter unit in any case.   With that in mind, there is no reason on this planet to attempt to repair such a device, especially without the necessary specific tooling, the time involved and the cost of any parts or pieces. I would rather spend that time doing something of use - such as restoring a vintage bit of audio equipment, or a clock or similar. We know that a junker would be recycled, so even that concern is soothed.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Mar 26 01:11PM -0700 On Tuesday, 26 March 2019 16:57:20 UTC, three_jeeps wrote:   > > like so many documents, too many errors early in the piece to finish reading.   > > NT   > Care to elaborate on the errors? aside from the dead links....     From the bit I read...     "Microwave ovens are without a doubt, the most deadly type of consumer electronic equipment in wide spread use. "   nothing to do with reality     "Connoisseurs of fine dining will turn up their collective noses at the thought of using a microwave oven for much beyond boiling water - if that."   half true. Reality is microwaving is the best way to cook some things taste-wise - as well as being a lousy option for some.     "the microwave oven has not changed substantially in the last 20 years."   half true, most haven't changed significantly in about 40 years.     "Touchpads are now nearly universal because they are cheaper to manufacture than mechanical timers (and also more convenient)"   cheap nukes are normally mechanical control, thus I could conclude mechanical controls are cheaper.     "Bad interlocks switches or door misalignment causing fuses to blow or no operation when the start button is pressed. Locate and replace defective switches and/or realign door."   risky advice. The shorting resistor must always be checked, otherwise the oven may cook but interlock has no ability to cut the power by shorting if there is a further door/interlock fault.     "Blown fuse due to power surge or old age: Replace fuse. On rare occasions, the main fuse may even be intermittent causing very strange symptoms. "   again the shorting resistor must be checked.     "if you can do the repair yourself, the equation changes dramatically as your parts costs will be 1/2 to 1/4 of what a professional will charge"   I never paid anything like that for nuke parts I didn't read any further.     NT

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Mar 26 01:14PM -0700 > Not so much. What it comes down to is that a microwave oven is a commodity cheaply available and generally pretty reliable, that also, with basic care will last very nearly indefinitely. In the 40 years I have used such devices, I can state with absolute specificity that I have never had to trash such a unit for failure. Wear, cosmetics, unsuitability, sure. But total failure, no.   > The most expensive unit we own is at our summer house, an over-stove device with pretty much every bell and whistle out there, including the wash-car, walk-dog options. Which we purchased on-sale for $150. We have a equally "optimized" counter-top unit at home that we got for $115, and it just turned 10. We have no place for an over-counter unit in any case.   > With that in mind, there is no reason on this planet to attempt to repair such a device,   A simple nonsequitur. You might not wish to do a minor repair to save $100-400, but some do. And sometimes getting an oven that fits a certain space can be tricky, repairing is then much quicker.     NT

Trevor Wilson <trevor@rageaudio.com.au>: Mar 27 07:27AM +1100 On 26/03/2019 3:59 am, Look165 wrote: > The only guilty part can be : mains transtormer, HV diode and HV capacitor. > A magnetron never dies.   **Huh?   In what universe do you imagine that a vacuum tube:   * Does not lose emission? * Does not suffer a filament failure?   Magnetrons do, indeed, fail. I've replaced quite a number of the years. Usually, they gradually lose emission and take longer to heat food. Sometimes, they just fail, due to an O/C filament.     -- Trevor Wilson www.rageaudio.com.au   --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus

KenW <ken1943@invalid.net>: Mar 26 12:59PM -0600 My HP laptop has the serial # on the box not on the laptop.

David Farber <farberbear.unspam@aol.com>: Mar 26 09:52AM -0700 On 3/25/2019 3:36 PM, KenW wrote: > I found a free program Neutron Time Set that I run from startup that > sets the time for me.   > KenW   Hi Ken,   Thanks for the workaround idea. I may have to resort to using it!   -- David Farber Los Osos, CA

David Farber <farberbear.unspam@aol.com>: Mar 26 09:55AM -0700 On 3/26/2019 4:44 AM, Adrian Caspersz wrote: >  [2] https://www.mouser.com/pdfdocs/6chipsetc200chipsetdatasheet.pdf   > Clearing CMOS is apparently done by a jumper (G2101) RTCRST# (page 21 of > the schematic [1]. Power off then momentary short (p.163 of [2])   Hi Adrian,   That schematic and datasheet will be very helpful. Thanks!   -- David Farber Los Osos, CA

David Farber <farberbear.unspam@aol.com>: Mar 26 10:12AM -0700 On 3/26/2019 8:58 AM, John Robertson wrote: > that Vbb is getting to the timekeeper - and someone kindly posted a ink > to the schematics so the OP can check that out now more easily.   > John :-#)#   Hi John,   I was testing the battery voltage where the battery holder's terminals are soldered to the board.   Now that I have the schematic, it should be fairly simple (famous last words, right?) to track down the fault.   Thanks for your reply.   -- David Farber Los Osos, CA

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Mar 26 10:15AM -0700 On 2019/03/26 10:12 a.m., David Farber wrote:   > -- > David Farber > Los Osos, CA   Nothing better than fixing stuff IMHO.   We generate enough garbage that keeping something going that is still useful is worth the effort, puls the brain cells need exercise!   John ;-#)#   -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3 (604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

Adrian Caspersz <email@here.invalid>: Mar 26 06:43PM On 26/03/2019 17:15, John Robertson wrote:   > Nothing better than fixing stuff IMHO.   > We generate enough garbage that keeping something going that is still > useful is worth the effort, puls the brain cells need exercise!   Quite :)   The reason why I pipped in, was that I was researching a real time clock / NVRAM fix to a 27-year old Sun X terminal [1], and came across a description of a 'kick start' procedure to initialise the installation a new clock module (a 28pin DIL chip like the popular DALLAS type). However, I just needed a new battery fitted to my old one, and set about mine with a hacksaw like this ...   http://www.glitchwrks.com/2017/08/01/gw-48t02-1   [1] For the hell of it, and a break from coding with much faster RPi things, I've been wandering down retro memory lane putting life back into an old discarded Sun Sparc Classic X. (removing the X terminal nature of the beast and installing a 1GB SCSI HDD, 72-pin parity SIMM, NetBSD 8.0 etc).   It doesn't really have a purpose (unit lacks USB, CPU runs at 50MHz) but the retro experience has reignited some brain cells - so it's kind of therapeutic. In twenty-thirty years time, I'll probably have the same fun with old Core2Duo driven things like what I am using here.   For a healthy mind, I heartily recommend this time travelling retro hobby. Sure beats sudoku and eating lots of fish ...   -- Adrian C

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