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thetruewillheart@gmail.com: Apr 02 08:17PM -0700 Hi I have a sony betamax, I can see even though there is no tape inside, the mechanizem inside is in position like there is a tape inside. Only know this because I have a working beta sony to compare. Any help? When i press power ect it does try to eject but that metal tab piece doesnt move the one that normally grab the tape and brings it around.

whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com>: Apr 02 09:48PM -0700 > Hi I have a sony betamax, I can see even though there is no tape inside, the mechanizem inside is in position like there is a tape inside. Only know this because I have a working beta sony to compare. Any help? When i press power ect it does try to eject but that metal tab piece doesnt move the one that normally grab the tape and brings it around.   The most likely problem in the current century is a snapped belt (rubber band) That means you want to open the gizmo, find the rubber scrap that used to be a belt, measure it, and cut something out of a tire innertube that more-or-less matches (or get an O-ring the right size from a mechanical-supplies outfit).   A cleanup and light greasing (silicone grease is messy, but effective) might also help, and if you find dead insects in the mechanism, those ought to be removed.   Except for the little brittle parts of the heads, a wipe with cotton swabs moistened with isopropyl alcohol is usually beneficial to the moving and contact-with-tape parts.

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Apr 02 10:07PM -0700 On Wednesday, 3 April 2019 05:48:34 UTC+1, whit3rd wrote: > and if you find dead insects in the mechanism, those ought to be removed.   > Except for the little brittle parts of the heads, a wipe with cotton swabs moistened > with isopropyl alcohol is usually beneficial to the moving and contact-with-tape parts.   I always marvelled at how they simplfied the mechanisms as the years rolled by. Last generation VCRs really didn't have much mechanicals in them.   Beta was 1970s, so probably a handful of belts that have rotted, broken or stretched. Try to resist paying premium belt prices except for places where speed stability is critical.     NT

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Apr 03 08:52AM +0100 > I always marvelled at how they simplfied the mechanisms as the years rolled by. Last generation VCRs really didn't have much mechanicals in them.   > Beta was 1970s, so probably a handful of belts that have rotted, broken or stretched. Try to resist paying premium belt prices except for places where speed stability is critical.   > NT   All belts need at least checking, including any mode switch belt. Another age related common defect is cracked plastic of first pinion on the mode switch motor (plastic on steel does not like temp changes/brittling of plastic over time)

John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Apr 03 04:52AM -0700 > Beta was 1970s, so probably a handful of belts that have rotted, broken or stretched.     Well, Sony made Betas up to the early 2000s, so you only missed that by a couple of decades.

amdx <nojunk@knology.net>: Apr 03 08:49AM -0500 On 4/3/2019 6:52 AM, John-Del wrote:   >> Beta was 1970s, so probably a handful of belts that have rotted, broken or stretched.   > Well, Sony made Betas up to the early 2000s, so you only missed that by a couple of decades.   I'm surprised to hear that, I got out of VCR repair in 1994, when I decided the purchase price for a new VCR was getting so low, that people would rather buy a new one than pay my repair prices. I timed it right, I alerted another tech I was leaving so he could take over my work, I went back 13 months later and he said he only came in 3 days a week to do any repairs that came in. I did 11,000 repairs in a 10 year stint, but did very little Sony repair, maybe 1% or 2%. Although in another job (1972) I repaired Sony 1/2" reel to reel video recorders, the AV3600 and AV3650, then later 3/4" Umatic cassette recorder and players, VO-1000 and V0-1600. In the 80's we had 3 big box electronics franchise stores in our area, they all boomed when vcr's came out and the sales were very brisk. We did manufacturer warranty and store warranty repair for all three. Old memories! Mikek

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Apr 03 09:32AM -0700 On Wednesday, 3 April 2019 12:53:00 UTC+1, John-Del wrote: > On Wednesday, April 3, 2019 at 1:07:36 AM UTC-4, tabby wrote:   > > Beta was 1970s, so probably a handful of belts that have rotted, broken or stretched.   > Well, Sony made Betas up to the early 2000s, so you only missed that by a couple of decades.   Betamax was released in 75. It was a home product rather than the earlier Umatic. They may have lingered on in small amounts but they were pretty much dead in the 80s. They lost, IIRC due to failure to license the tech to others. IME most beta decks are late 70s, some early 80s.     NT

Adrian Caspersz <email@here.invalid>: Mar 27 05:48PM On 27/03/2019 17:36, Adrian Caspersz wrote:   > "G2101", it looks a known reset method for locked BIOS etc. That Acer > motherboard visually looks different, but the G2101 triangular pads were > located under the DIMM sockets. Maybe Dell is in a similar location.   https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9wwlUNWeVo5smMdOMhcHA6pq6LscB5WMLw2I-IhSVVdhH3GDGO004-htuc9lMnLHl2EVM9MyKRH5HFbXUf0gTN_a3_X1CP3D_fDYqfey-kDn_fzqbCjRiV0PnhNnwn14Ci-TR9f4DRGo/s1600/Dell+5110.JPG   G2101 is down to the right of G2201 as indicated. You don't want to mess with G2201, that's something else.   -- Adrian C

David Farber <farberbear.unspam@aol.com>: Mar 28 01:11PM -0700 On 3/27/2019 10:48 AM, Adrian Caspersz wrote:   > https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9wwlUNWeVo5smMdOMhcHA6pq6LscB5WMLw2I-IhSVVdhH3GDGO004-htuc9lMnLHl2EVM9MyKRH5HFbXUf0gTN_a3_X1CP3D_fDYqfey-kDn_fzqbCjRiV0PnhNnwn14Ci-TR9f4DRGo/s1600/Dell+5110.JPG   > G2101 is down to the right of G2201 as indicated. You don't want to mess > with G2201, that's something else.   Hi Adrian,   Your above link to the picture of the G2201 location is correct. Please note that it's on the opposite side of the motherboard where the CMOS battery lives. After performing the reset, I went into the BIOS setup menu and set the time and date. Since then, the displayed time is now accurate even after being powered off and then powered back on again. This just goes to show you that removing the CMOS battery does not necessarily reset whatever it was that needed resetting. (At least for this computer)   Thanks to everyone for all your fantastic support!!!   -- David Farber Los Osos, CA

Adrian Caspersz <email@here.invalid>: Mar 27 05:36PM On 26/03/2019 21:21, David Farber wrote:     > By the way, how is it the computer keeps perfect time once the time is > set and the power remains on? Shouldn't the time shown in the BIOS setup > screen begin to advance too once it's powered on?   The RTC is only read once on startup of the operating system, which then maintains the increment of it's own internal counter. There is no 'write-back' if current OS time settings are left alone by the user.   The BIOS time itself not incrementing is the fault, I reckon the chipset has got itself into a funny state and needs a reset which you haven't yet done. I'd try finding the G2101 link I mentioned.   Interestingly, the ACER ASPIRE V5 471 has the same labelled jumper, similar circuit (same original manufacturer) - and googling that "G2101", it looks a known reset method for locked BIOS etc. That Acer motherboard visually looks different, but the G2101 triangular pads were located under the DIMM sockets. Maybe Dell is in a similar location.     -- Adrian C

Stephen Wolstenholme <steve@easynn.com>: Mar 30 01:28PM On Sat, 30 Mar 2019 12:02:20 +0000 (UTC), Martin Gregorie >ferrite core memory. That CPU used 20KW. Add in 6 tape decks, two disk >drives, printer, cardreader and a comms multiplexor and the system >consumed 40 KW when fully up and running - typical for kit in that era.   I never worked on 1902S but I worked on System 4 and the largest 2900's. The current demands were very high but generally low voltage so some engineers would work on live power supplies. Mending the 3 phase mains primary supply in the middle of the night could be dangerous. The secondary output was much lower voltage but high current. We kept an adjustable spanner that had been dropped onto the 5.6V DC supply. It was to remind some engineers of the power involved. The spanner had blown like a fuse. I can't remember the current limit but it was huge!   Steve   -- http://www.npsnn.com

micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Mar 29 04:14PM +0300 To recap for the scientists: What size fuse to use in a 22V microwave:   In alt.home.repair, on Thu, 28 Mar 2019 19:07:29 -0500, Dean Hoffman   > I suspect that was tongue in cheek. If not, fuses fail just >like everything else involving humans. I've changed a lot of them over the years >without having to do anything else.   LOL. I wasn't living here when it broke; I don't know what they did to it.   By the same token, I'm leaving and I wanted to either put in the right fuse or leave a note inside the case for the new owner (my roommate already bought a replacement and they plan to put this one in the lobby for someone to take.)   The second store I called had it, even 12 amps, not just 10, but as I expected, only fast-blow. The original was ceramic.   I thought all ceramic fuses were slo-blo, but this one is embossed F12H250 and some webpages say that F means fast-blow???? "The types of fuses include long-time-lag or super-time-lag (TT), fast-acting fuses (FF), quick-blow fuses (F) and slow-blow or time-lag fuses (T)" https://www.hunker.com/13418825/difference-between-ceramic-glass-fuses   Nothing I read decribes why a microwave should need ceramic or slow-blo (in the power part, not the high voltage part).   One page says " Glass has a low rupturing point, such as 15 amperes."   That's fine since it's a 12 amp fuse, and the normal usage is about 7 amps.   " If a high voltage comes down the electrical line, the fuse element will melt.   Are there really surges that come down the line that increase the amperage for normally 7 to over 12?   "The tiny glass fuses are great for small items that don't draw a heavy amount of current and blow on a regular basis. They don't perform well outdoors and can shatter when placed in high temperatures due to its low thermal stability."   Microwave is not used outdoors or at high temperatures.     From before According to the label on the back "The input is 1400 watts, but it's a 220 volt device, so that's less than 7amps normally. So, 10, right? Unless F12 in F12H250 at the top means 12 amps? " And the home.repair people told me it did, but the web says F means fast-blow.   It's a Crystal, model wp900AP23, but no schematic could I find on the web and the one taped inside just shows fuse, no details.

amdx <nojunk@knology.net>: Mar 29 09:26PM -0500 On 3/29/2019 9:21 PM, Allodoxaphobia wrote:   >> There are people that don't have any shoes and here you are complaining >> about what type and length of laces you should get for your boots.   > .... in an electronics repair usenet newsgroup.   hmm, from my point of view, many people are poor money managers. But very good consumers. My comment was tongue in cheek though.

Sjouke Burry <burrynulnulfour@ppllaanneett.nnll>: Mar 30 08:14PM +0100 On 30-3-2019 11:36, John-Del wrote: >> having to read oldschool's postings.   >> After reading tubeguy's postings I thought it was appropriate.   > Not just oldfool's posts, but there are others here who go through Rube Goldberg lengths to solve a problem that would best be fixed by buying a new one at one half or less the cost.   What are you doing in a repair newsgroup?

tubeguy@myshop.com: Mar 27 05:20PM -0500 Does anyone know the correct resistance of the ballast Resistor on old Points ignition? I have an old Farmall M tractor. That resistor (which is a large ceramic power resistor), only measures 3 or 4 ohms   I was expecting it to be at least 100 ohms, if not 500 or 1k. I measured this with nothing connected to it, using an analog multimeter.   This resistor is between ignition switch and the ignition coil and points. It drops the 12volts to about 6 volts. Some information I got about this tractor says the voltage should be about 8 volts after the resistor. I dont know how much tolerance is allowed, but I'd rather see a higher spark plug voltage than a lower one.   The tractor now runs, after it failed due to what appears to have been a bad condensor (capacitor). But it runs rough after replacing the points, condensor, plugs, dist cap and rotor. The spark on a test sparkplug seems kind of weak to me.....   Kind of makes me wonder if this resistor needs replacement?   (The sparkplug wires were replaced about 2 years ago, so they should be fine, since I dont use the tractor all that much).

Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com>: Mar 27 03:54PM On Tue, 26 Mar 2019 21:16:48 -0500, Fox's Mercantile wrote:   >> half an hour of your time. >> No contest.   > Have you priced a mechanical timer? Or a CPU based controller?   Why on earth would I? Only a fuse and a diode failed!           -- This message may be freely reproduced without limit or charge only via the Usenet protocol. Reproduction in whole or part through other protocols, whether for profit or not, is conditional upon a charge of GBP10.00 per reproduction. Publication in this manner via non-Usenet protocols constitutes acceptance of this condition.

123123 <123123@anon.com>: Apr 01 09:57AM 121213232313"><h1>1234</h1>   Posted on def4

123412121323 <123412121323@anon.com>: Apr 01 09:57AM 121213232313"><h1>1234</h1>   Posted on def4

Adrian Caspersz <email@here.invalid>: Apr 02 03:12PM +0100 On 02/04/2019 02:43, Tom Del Rosso wrote: > I had never heard of this problem before, but it's good to know.   > https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wrNqM2GO7IU   Thanks,   I have exactly the same issue on mine, and now knowing that its just a spec of dust on the diffuser, is explanatory enough so I'm content enough to leave this Dell as it is. It's not as the LCD is broke and colours are coming out wrong, or stuck pixels etc...   -- Adrian C

"Tom Del Rosso" <fizzbintuesday@that-google-mail-domain.com>: Apr 02 01:59PM -0400 Stephen Wolstenholme wrote:   >> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wrNqM2GO7IU   > I have two LCD and a DVD TVs. Non of them have the problems described.   > Steve (EX TV designer)   But the TV's you designed didn't have LCD's, did they? :)

Stephen Wolstenholme <steve@easynn.com>: Apr 02 04:10PM +0100 On Mon, 1 Apr 2019 21:43:37 -0400, "Tom Del Rosso"   >I had never heard of this problem before, but it's good to know.   >https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wrNqM2GO7IU   I have two LCD and a DVD TVs. Non of them have the problems described.   Steve (EX TV designer)   -- http://www.npsnn.com

Stephen Wolstenholme <steve@easynn.com>: Apr 02 10:31PM +0100 On Tue, 2 Apr 2019 13:59:37 -0400, "Tom Del Rosso"   >> I have two LCD and a DVD TVs. Non of them have the problems described.   >> Steve (EX TV designer)   >But the TV's you designed didn't have LCD's, did they? :)   We had some LCD TVs in the lab but domestic ones came about 20 years after I retired.   Steve   -- http://www.npsnn.com

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