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"Tom Del Rosso" <fizzbintuesday@that-google-mail-domain.com>: Apr 01 09:43PM -0400 I had never heard of this problem before, but it's good to know.   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wrNqM2GO7IU     --

Adrian Caspersz <email@here.invalid>: Apr 02 03:12PM +0100 On 02/04/2019 02:43, Tom Del Rosso wrote: > I had never heard of this problem before, but it's good to know.   > https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wrNqM2GO7IU   Thanks,   I have exactly the same issue on mine, and now knowing that its just a spec of dust on the diffuser, is explanatory enough so I'm content enough to leave this Dell as it is. It's not as the LCD is broke and colours are coming out wrong, or stuck pixels etc...   -- Adrian C

Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Apr 02 09:49AM -0500 On 4/2/19 9:12 AM, Adrian Caspersz wrote: > spec of dust on the diffuser, is explanatory enough so I'm content > enough to leave this Dell as it is. It's not as the LCD is broke and > colours are coming out wrong, or stuck pixels etc...   It's a matter of "how much is your time worth?" That and a risk assessment for potential "Oops."   -- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com

Stephen Wolstenholme <steve@easynn.com>: Apr 02 04:10PM +0100 On Mon, 1 Apr 2019 21:43:37 -0400, "Tom Del Rosso"   >I had never heard of this problem before, but it's good to know.   >https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wrNqM2GO7IU   I have two LCD and a DVD TVs. Non of them have the problems described.   Steve (EX TV designer)   -- http://www.npsnn.com

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Apr 01 09:53AM -0700 > Would any one of our Euro friends be willing to act as an intermediary for John-Del?   > Peter Wieck > Melrose Park, PA   The OP might want to look at:   https://www.mailboxde.com/   I use shipito.com for companies in the US that won't ship to Canada for similar reasons.   John :-#)#   -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3 (604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

Look165 <look165@numericable.fr>: Apr 01 07:03PM +0200 Did you try Farnell or Radiospares ?   John-Del a écrit le 01/04/2019 à 17:22 :

John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Apr 01 10:05AM -0700 > I know you are not into adaptation - but these may be close enough to fit such that all you will need to do is adapt the connectors. On the other hand, I am frankly astounded that Mercedes does not have, or cannot get the part directly. did you ask?   > Peter Wieck > Melrose Park, PA   I LOVE adaptation. I just built a projection lamp out of an old Philco loctal tube base and a halogen EZK lamp for a good customer.   This isn't my project though Peter. My buddy is a mechanic found the bad switch. He told me it's in a tight place, and I have a feeling that if it's not in the right spot or if the lever is a different length or actuates at a different point in the lever's throw, it may change the limit of one of the actuators. So first choice is the original switch.   I don't know if Mercedes has any or can order them, if they're discontinued, or would take some time to research. My buddy wanted to get at least three just in case others in the system (he said there were like 5 or 6) were bad now or would fail in the future. I was able to pin the exact switch down in a few minutes but ran into the shipping issue.   Thanks for looking.

Look165 <look165@numericable.fr>: Apr 01 07:18PM +0200 Did you try this ?   http://www.amora.co.nz/Zippy-Microswitch-DWN2S01A0EZ-12-Vdc-01-A-1-x-OnOn-momentary-1-pcs-uN7offrU-p-319.html   John-Del a écrit le 01/04/2019 à 17:22 :

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Apr 01 11:02AM -0700 On 2019/04/01 10:18 a.m., Look165 wrote: > Did you try this ?   > http://www.amora.co.nz/Zippy-Microswitch-DWN2S01A0EZ-12-Vdc-01-A-1-x-OnOn-momentary-1-pcs-uN7offrU-p-319.html   Only 1576 left, better hurry @ $4.41USD each!   John :-#)#

Tim Schwartz <tim@bristolnj.com>: Apr 01 05:49PM -0400 Hi John,   Being an old car hobbyist, you could actually try your local Mercedes dealer. It will likely be 5 to 10 times the price, but you'll be sure to have a part that fits purchased in the US.   Best regards, Tim     On 4/1/2019 11:22 AM, John-Del wrote:

Tim Schwartz <tim@bristolnj.com>: Apr 01 05:50PM -0400 Hi John,   Being an old car hobbyist, you could actually try your local Mercedes dealer. It will likely be 5 to 10 times the price, but you'll be sure to have a part that fits purchased in the US.   Best regards, Tim     On 4/1/2019 11:22 AM, John-Del wrote:

John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Apr 02 07:40AM -0700 On Monday, April 1, 2019 at 1:18:46 PM UTC-4, Look165 wrote: > Did you try this ?   > http://www.amora.co.nz/Zippy-Microswitch-DWN2S01A0EZ-12-Vdc-01-A-1-x-OnOn-momentary-1-pcs-uN7offrU-p-319.html   I can't use that one because it's reversed.. BUT, the same company does have the correct orientation:   http://www.amora.co.nz/index.php?zenid=p9ukfv99v5ajim061a2t55d7o6&main_page=advanced_search_result&search_in_description=1&keyword=+DW-N2S-01A0F-Z&x=27&y=23   So I'll order from them.   Thanks for the lead.

jurb6006@gmail.com: Apr 01 06:56PM -0700 Well, they are mostly CCFL. Of course they have Royers in them and they generate EMI. I got an HP339a and to find its measurement flkoor of 0.0016% I had to connect the output to the input with wires as straight as possible. Using anything else it picked up too much noise, even with the filters on.   Then I am working on a scope and the trace is fat, I pull the arm light away and it flattens out. I turn off all the lights and I got the flatline I should.   So now I got a halogen in the arm lamp, which helps. I also still have the ability to shut of all the lights and have everything else still work. Even with the rest of the lights farther away it still has noticeable EMI.   The halogen is alright but it gets hot. that is inefficiency and not much though because it is like 50 watts. But it makes the shield on my arm lamp hot and that is not only not nice now, any heat generation in the summer is no good here. We don't even use the oven. This is a BIG house and when that A/C comes on it is over a buck an hour to run the compressor.   I wonder now about LED lighting. I know it runs on a couple of volts, and if they are downconverting it it is surely switched mode. Or is it ? They would not just use a resistor, trying to be efficient.   If LED lighting does not emit much EMI I will consider changing to it. This place is bad enough with the bad wiring, yes I know I have to take care of that but still, that EMI is not what is coming form the light bulbs. But what is is up close and personal.   What y'all use for that ?

bitrex <user@example.net>: Apr 02 01:12AM -0400 > I wonder now about LED lighting. I know it runs on a couple of volts, and if they are downconverting it it is surely switched mode. Or is it ? They would not just use a resistor, trying to be efficient.   > If LED lighting does not emit much EMI I will consider changing to it. This place is bad enough with the bad wiring, yes I know I have to take care of that but still, that EMI is not what is coming form the light bulbs. But what is is up close and personal.   > What y'all use for that ?   I use two of these style of lamp from Amazon for several months, one on each side. There are several different models. Works great and I don't notice any EMI issues. Some people bitchin' about reliability problems but hasn't happened to me yet.   <https://www.amazon.com/Brightech-Sparq-Lighting-Bedrooms-Minimalist/dp/B07DV2HWKJ/ref=sr_1_13?keywords=britech+floor+lamp&qid=1554181744&s=gateway&sr=8-13>   I have a halogen gooseneck too but hardly need it

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Apr 01 11:36PM -0700 >to it. This place is bad enough with the bad wiring, yes I know >I have to take care of that but still, that EMI is not what is >coming form the light bulbs. But what is is up close and personal.   Dirty Electricity from LEDs <https://healthybuildingscience.com/2017/06/05/dirty-electricity-leds/> The worst part is that I've found wide variations in EMI from commodity LED light bulbs. In the same box of bulbs, some are very noisy, while others are tolerably quiet. You may need to individually test the bulbs to find the best.   >What y'all use for that ?   Kerosene or propane camping lantern. I actually did that at one company for lighting a screen room. However, I was soon ordered to remove them because they were a fire hazard. I though the "ambience" was rather nice, but I have to admit that it wouldn't have taken much to start a fire. I didn't try these, but I think Cyalume glow sticks might have worked: <https://www.google.com/search?tbm=isch&q=cyalume> Yellow seems the brightest. You get about 12 hrs per stick at about $1.25/ea. I think 4 would be sufficient to light up a test bench. That's $5 per day for lighting, which is expensive but tolerable compared to the cost of LED lights, ferrite bead filtering, and possibly wire mesh shielding.     -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

"J.B. Wood" <arl_123234@hotmail.com>: Apr 02 06:23AM -0400 > Well, they are mostly CCFL. Of course they have Royers in them and they generate EMI. I got an HP339a and to find its measurement flkoor of 0.0016% I had to connect the output to the input with wires as straight as possible. Using anything else it picked up too much noise, even with the filters on.   > Then I am working on a scope and the trace is fat, I pull the arm light away and it flattens out. I turn off all the lights and I got the flatline I should.   > So now I got a halogen in the arm lamp, which helps. I also still have the ability to shut of all the lights and have everything else still work. Even with the rest of the lights farther away it still has noticeable EMI.   Hello, and I use a '70s era Tensor high-intensity lamp (also doubles as a piano lamp). It uses a 12-volt automotive bulb and has a high and low brightness switch. Oh, yeah, and no noise/EMI issues and plenty of light for close-in work. Sometimes older works better (except perhaps with people). Sincerely,   -- J. B. Wood e-mail: arl_123234@hotmail.com

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Apr 02 04:00AM -0700 > I wonder now about LED lighting. I know it runs on a couple of volts, and if they are downconverting it it is surely switched mode. Or is it ? They would not just use a resistor, trying to be efficient.   > If LED lighting does not emit much EMI I will consider changing to it. This place is bad enough with the bad wiring, yes I know I have to take care of that but still, that EMI is not what is coming form the light bulbs. But what is is up close and personal.   > What y'all use for that ?   LEDs, if run on dc, are as clean as it gets. Of course commercial lightbulbs all use switchers, not known for being EMI-free. Roll your own. Ebay has very cheap reject less power than claimed flat panel LEDs, or just rewire a lightbulb.     NT

bitrex <user@example.net>: Apr 01 11:42PM -0400 On 3/31/19 8:22 PM, Phil Allison wrote:   > ..... Phil   Great, thank you, seems to be in congruence with the similar Hammond-branded specs on the 269JX JD referred above, rated for 60mA output with around 11 ohms primary DCR and 350 ohms on the secondary.   <https://www.hammfg.com/files/parts/pdf/269JX.pdf>   A pretty nice piece for the price I think particularly given that I should be able pick up several in person at the warehouse and avoid shipping.   Only question I'm unsure of now is what format the program expects the transformer "source resistance" parameter in; whether it's the end-to-end secondary DCR plus the primary DCR referred to the secondary directly, or whether that needs to take into account in a full-wave center-tapped configuration that the load is only "seeing" half the secondary impedance at a time, unfortunately the included Help manual is not helpful here.

bitrex <user@example.net>: Apr 01 11:45PM -0400 On 4/1/19 11:42 PM, bitrex wrote: > center-tapped configuration that the load is only "seeing" half the > secondary impedance at a time, unfortunately the included Help manual is > not helpful here.   I suppose this is technically a design issue but sci.electronics.design makes fun of tubes. they think they're too GOOD for tubes. :(

Look165 <look165@numericable.fr>: Apr 02 10:30AM +0200 Me, I would measure it with an ohmmeter (=> copper resistance) and then shrtocut the secondary and apply the adequate voltage at the primary so that the secondary current is OK and measure the primary current (=> the iron resistance).   This give copper loss and iron loss.   bitrex a écrit le 31/03/2019 à 23:13 :

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