Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 12 updates in 2 topics

etpm@whidbey.com: Jun 27 04:28PM -0700

Well, I've been gone for a month and this group is dead. So maybe
my questions will liven it up some. Or maybe everyone else is also on
vacation. I know, this is a repair group. But I will no doubt need to
repair whatever I build. And besides, I get better electronics advice
here, as in more of it and correct, than on the basics group.
While wasting some time on the computer while being on hold I came
across some small ocsilloscope CRTs, then looking for something to
light one of them up I saw some kits to make oscilloscope clocks. Only
34 bucks for the kit!
So I ordered a two inch CRT with electrostatic deflection. Here's a
link to the CRT I ordered:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/5LO38I-Mini-5-cm-CRT-oscilloscope-cathode-ray-tube-FOR-DIY-NOS-BOXED/111978397405?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908105057%26meid%3Da8915a4a567c484c94f5f3b2d9e743c4%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D15%26mehot%3Dag%26sd%3D401706260380%26itm%3D111978397405&_trksid=p2481888.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3Afb320543-9930-11e9-9594-74dbd1808485%7Cparentrq%3A9b35da7016b0aa19f93d280effb7f16e%7Ciid%3A1
Then on to ordering the kit. Hah! No dice. The kits are no longer
available. But I think I can still download the code for the
microcontrollers and the files for the circuit boards. Here is a link
to the page that the kit used to be available from:
http://www.dutchtronix.com/ScopeClockH3-1-Enhanced.htm
The kit was also available from other sources but I can't find it
for sale anywhere. Darn. Maybe someone here bought one of these kits
and never built it and it is collecting dust. If so why not sell it to
me?
I also need to drive the CRT and I found a simple circuit called
the Mullard's Pupil Oscilloscope. Here's a link:
https://www.instructables.com/id/Mullard-Pupils-Oscilloscope/
So, if I build the Mullard scope circuit will it drive the two
inch CRT I ordered seeing as how it was made to drive a 1 inch CRT?
And if that works will the Dutchtronix clock circuit work with the
Mullard scope and give me a nice looking display?
Look, this is just for fun. I am capable of safely dealing with
the high voltage. But I don't know enough to know if all the parts
will play nice with each other. I have also not built any tube or
valve gear using point to point wiring so a little advice about that
would be greatly appreciated. When it is all done the idea is to have
as much of the tube circuitry as possible exposed with the modern
microntroller stuff hidden away. I like tube stuff and exposed
machinery, always have.
I think a one tube scope with a hand wound xmfr could look pretty
cool sitting on a shelf near my tube amplifier.
Thanks All,
Eric
dplatt@coop.radagast.org (Dave Platt): Jun 27 04:53PM -0700

In article <bkiahetm7sd5tu5le62altohhbp9vnevra@4ax.com>,
>inch CRT I ordered seeing as how it was made to drive a 1 inch CRT?
>And if that works will the Dutchtronix clock circuit work with the
>Mullard scope and give me a nice looking display?
 
Maybe. :-)
 
In principle it ought to work, if you get the voltages correct. If
you don't, it'll either not work, or damage the CRT or something else.
 
Among the things you'll need to look at, in matching up the various
circuits and components, are;
 
- The required heater (filament) voltage and current for the CRT you
are using.
- The cathode, grid and deflection voltages for the CRT you are using.
- The voltages being created by the clock circuit (microprocessor)
and being fed to the X and Y inputs of the scope circuit
 
Read through the data sheet for the DH3-91 CRT that the circuit was
designed to work with (http://www.labguysworld.com/1CP1(db3-91).pdf)
and for the CRT you bought.
 
The physical size of the CRT doesn't matter very much (directly) but
a larger or different CRT may have different voltage or current
requirements.
John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Jun 27 04:57PM -0700

> cool sitting on a shelf near my tube amplifier.
> Thanks All,
> Eric
 
Looks like a fun project! Make some PCBs and offer them here, I'd
probably buy one just for fun. I've got a few 'scopes sitting around
that aren't doing anything useful...
 
As for the Mullard scope, it should work with a larger tube, you just
may have to raise the deflection voltage a bit. Find the specs on the
two tubes to see what the deflection differences are - if any!
 
John :-#)#
 
--
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd.
MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3
(604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."
Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Jun 27 07:05PM -0700


> https://www.instructables.com/id/Mullard-Pupils-Oscilloscope/
 
** No pics or diagram showing up for me.
 
Am I missing something?
 
 
.... Phil
Rheilly Phoull <rheilly@bigslong.com>: Jun 28 10:59AM +0800

On 28/06/2019 10:05 am, Phil Allison wrote:
 
> .... Phil
 
Might pay to check around, comes up OK for me in Oz
Sjouke Burry <burrynulnulfour@ppllaanneett.nnll>: Jun 28 05:49AM +0200

On 28.06.19 4:05, Phil Allison wrote:
 
> Am I missing something?
 
> .... Phil
 
Loads fine here(Netherlands). Interesting circiut diagram.
Needs a few mods, if you dont want a 12v supply.
Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Jun 28 01:14AM -0700

Sjouke Burry wrote:
 
> Loads fine here(Netherlands).
 
** Sites sometimes tell me I am using an "ad blocker" - which must be part of Windows 7 cos I never added one.
 
Could that be it ?
 
 
.... Phil
Jeff Layman <jmlayman@invalid.invalid>: Jun 28 09:55AM +0100

On 28/06/19 09:14, Phil Allison wrote:
 
> ** Sites sometimes tell me I am using an "ad blocker" - which must be part of Windows 7 cos I never added one.
 
> Could that be it ?
 
> .... Phil
 
I doubt it. I am using an adblocker and see the page without problem. I
don't know what browser you are using, but try using it with all add-ons
disabled ("Safe Mode" when using Firefox, for instance). If that allows
you to see the page, you have to go back to normal mode and switch each
off add-on in turn until you find the one which is stopping the page
from displaying.
 
--
 
Jeff
"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Jun 28 03:59AM -0700

http://oscilloscopeclocknixiecrt.com/Kit.htm
 
https://makezine.com/2007/05/30/35-avr-oscilloscope-clock/
 
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Jun 28 04:36AM -0700

On Friday, June 28, 2019 at 4:14:28 AM UTC-4, Phil Allison wrote:
 
> ** Sites sometimes tell me I am using an "ad blocker" - which must be part of Windows 7 cos I never added one.
 
> Could that be it ?
 
> .... Phil
 
 
Odd.. You can try converting the web page to a .pdf right on line. If you can open this: https://webpagetopdf.com/ or one the many like it, input the instructables url and it will convert it to .pdf.
Geo <nhhu-o3hu@dea.spamcon.org>: Jun 28 04:06PM +0100

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Oscilloscope-Clock-Kit-for-many-crt-types-Wifi-OR-gps-CRT-Cathode-ray-tube-Scope/303198819933?hash=item46980ed65d:g:84wAAOSw3dxbTimZ
Don Brown <edfredcorp@gmail.com>: Jun 27 11:29AM -0700

On Wednesday, June 26, 2019 at 9:10:30 PM UTC-7, Don Brown wrote:
 
> I took some photos of when it is at it's best:
 
> Here is a sample curve trace - http://www.edfredcorp.com/Hickok/httphotos/Hickok_20440_20Schematic_20_26_20Circuit_20Description/Hickok%20440%20Curve%20Test%20Scope%20Screenshot%20Working.jpg
 
> Here is the calibration screen, fairly normal I think with two steps per division as expected - http://www.edfredcorp.com/Hickok/httphotos/Hickok_20440_20Schematic_20_26_20Circuit_20Description/Hickok%20440%20Calibration%20Scope%20Screenshot%20Working.jpg
 
OK, it has been stable for hours. I repeatedly cleaned and worked all switches and adjusted component clearances to avoid possible touching to case. Also gently flexed the pc board looking for sources of intermittent signs.
 
Maybe the non electrolytic capacitors needed time to reform, though I did not think it mattered to those.
 
At this point I did not address the 13v-14v power supply deficit, since it seems to be working. If anybody thinks I should address that for better precision, I will.
 
Also now have the Heathkit manual for review.
 
Thanks for all the tips from everybody.
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