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| John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Jun 28 10:31AM -0700 On 2019/06/27 7:59 p.m., Rheilly Phoull wrote: >> .... Phil > Might pay to check around, comes up OK for me in Oz Works fine for me in Vancouver, BC... Nice schematics with valves instead of tubes. Must be some furren idear. John ;-#)# |
| ~misfit~ <shaun.at.pukekohe@gmail.com>: Jun 29 11:30PM +1200 On 28/06/2019 8:55 PM, Jeff Layman wrote: > are using, but try using it with all add-ons disabled ("Safe Mode" when using Firefox, for > instance). If that allows you to see the page, you have to go back to normal mode and switch each > off add-on in turn until you find the one which is stopping the page from displaying. Works fine here in NZ and I'm using an adblocker AND an anti-tracking add-on (Privacy Badger, I recommend it highly) in Firefox, works in Chrome too. -- Shaun. "Humans will have advanced a long, long way when religious belief has a cozy little classification in the DSM" David Melville This is not an email and hasn't been checked for viruses by any half-arsed self-promoting software. |
| "jfeng@my-deja.com" <jfeng@my-deja.com>: Jun 29 07:22AM -0700 On Thursday, June 27, 2019 at 7:05:37 PM UTC-7, Phil Allison wrote: > Am I missing something? > .... Phil Based on all the successful responses, the answer is obviously "YES!" |
| John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Jun 29 08:26AM -0700 On 2019/06/28 1:14 a.m., Phil Allison wrote: > ** Sites sometimes tell me I am using an "ad blocker" - which must be part of Windows 7 cos I never added one. > Could that be it ? > ..... Phil Hi Phil, I use this site when I'm not sure where the problem is: https://isitdownorjust.me/ Hope that helps! John :-#)# |
| etpm@whidbey.com: Jun 29 09:37AM -0700 On Thu, 27 Jun 2019 16:53:56 -0700, dplatt@coop.radagast.org (Dave Platt) wrote: >The physical size of the CRT doesn't matter very much (directly) but >a larger or different CRT may have different voltage or current >requirements. Thanks Dave. I downloaded the datasheet for the Mullard tube and I'll compare it to my CRT when it arrives. Eric --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus |
| bruce2bowser@gmail.com: Jun 28 02:55PM -0700 Yes. BTW, I'm one of many, many stupid, slow, never-should-have-been-allowed-into-college liberal arts majors. Also, I'm a former east-coast union electrician helper. So you'll have to excuse me when I ask you: what does 'acedic' mean? |
| John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Jun 28 03:45PM -0700 > Yes. > BTW, I'm one of many, many stupid, slow, never-should-have-been-allowed-into-college liberal arts majors. Also, I'm a former east-coast union electrician helper. So you'll have to excuse me when I ask you: what does 'acedic' mean? Acidic - vinegar based solvent. It was miss-speled. John ;-#)# -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3 (604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out." |
| amdx <nojunk@knology.net>: Jun 29 08:20AM -0500 On 6/20/2019 5:20 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote: > That's tarnish (sulfur compounds). Some clues from how to clean brass > clock mechanisms: > <https://www.snclocks.com/TechnicalInformation/Tid-Bits/Clock-Cleaning-Solution/> All very interesting and ties into my latest purchase. I bought a metal brake to bend flashing in my house. It came coated in oil, which I removed just by wiping with a paper towel, because it was so messy. Within two days in my screened porch it started to rust. So while I'm not using it, I used motor oil on a paper towel to re-oil the metal surfaces. This will be a rarely used tool, and will be stored in my non-climate controlled outdoor shed. How do I best protect the surface Ditto, my new drill press!. Mikek |
| Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Jun 29 09:35AM -0700 >How do I best protect the surface >Ditto, my new drill press!. > Mikek Motor oil might work. I've never tried it. I use automotive grease on my drill press. Just about any grease or liquid wax that doesn't run, melt, or wash off should work. I've also used liquid furniture wax. There are a wide variety of marine corrosion protection sprays and pastes available. <https://www.theruststore.com/Protect-Your-Boat-from-Rust-W39.aspx> <https://www.theruststore.com/Rust-Prevention-C4.aspx> Also, automotive rust inhibitors: <https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-heavy-duty-anti-rust-in-amber.html> WD-40 Long Term Corrosion Inhibitor: <https://www.wd40specialist.com/products/corrosion-inhibitor/> <https://antonpug.com/blog/2015/5/11/diy-rust-protection-test> You might search or ask the same question on: <https://www.cnczone.com/forums/> The forum is mostly about CNC machines, but also covers other aspects of machining. For example: <https://www.cnczone.com/forums/benchtop-machines/86146-rust-prevention.html> -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
| bruce2bowser@gmail.com: Jun 28 03:06PM -0700 >> 120 can be just as lethal as 240. >> (its the current, not the volts that's the problem in those accidents) > But not nearly as fast or as certain. Otherwise 120v ground fault protection would never trip as early as sensing just 5 milliamps. |
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