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bruce2bowser@gmail.com: Jun 30 06:58AM -0700 > the reciever is off, will intermittently do relay click and loudness amber led(s) on the front will glow gradually, > off, and repeat till I unplug it. Back in 2003-2004, I took my reciever to a authorized sony service center that > did not know how to fix it   Would you spend the money to train somebody to fix something like that 18 years later - especially when you could be addressing more late-model stuff? (I'm just sayin')

Jeff Urban <jurb6006@gmail.com>: Jun 30 06:07AM -0700 >I prefer to use a hi-fi or entertainment contrivance that already >has proper external speakers and better bass/treble controls.   Bass and treble ? I have a design that will blow your mind. If your public email is good I'll send you the print. Once I find it.   We are talking +/- 20dB, bass turnover continuously variable from about 40 to 400 Hz, treble has the same +/- 20dB with the turnover continuously variable from about 3KHz to 7KHz.   The only thing I am working on now is to decrease the effect of the treble when the turnover is lowered, meaning it boosts more frequencies. The reason is that if you got it set to 7K that 20dB boost is not that much, it is just bringing to you that sweet timbre. Take it to 4KHz and we are talking blowing tweeters fast like. So when I am done it is only going to have +/- 20 when set to the highest turnover.   Actually I am pretty sure I can just put some cutable jumpers on the board to allow the full range at all settings for those who get their tweeters wholesale...   It is a different approach to tone controls and I think I saw it implemented in some unit somewhere, but not as advanced as mine. No variable turnover.   I used to have the circuit values figured out but I lost it dammit. Doesn't matter I can figure it out again fast enough.   Actually if I get it up and send it you'll see because of the topology the values are very easy to figure.   Worse comes to worse I got it on paper and I can just scan it, where it was anyway, there is no Spice file of it.

OGY <X@NOWHERE.COM>: Jun 29 12:26PM -0700 Looking for but not sure the technical name of the intermediated water bubbler bottle that goes between the vacuum pump and the bell jar that will clean the stuff that may appear in the bell jar as being evacuated so as not to contaminate the vacuum pump.   Got links would be helpful   Thank you.

Arie de Muynck <no.spam@no.spam.org>: Jun 30 11:32AM +0200 On 2019-06-29 21:26, OGY wrote: > so as not to contaminate the vacuum pump.   > Got links would be helpful   > Thank you.   Scrubber?

bruce2bowser@gmail.com: Jun 29 02:08PM -0700 On Sunday, June 2, 2019 at 7:54:17 PM UTC-4, Cursitor Doom wrote: > question that's causing some folks to misinterpret it. > Anyway, the first two respondents told me all I wanted to know so many > thanks to them and their excellent comprehension skills.   Though, how would you say captain obvious in dutch maybe? Kapitein duidelijke?

bruce2bowser@gmail.com: Jun 29 02:00PM -0700 On Monday, May 13, 2019 at 5:03:59 PM UTC-4, bitrex wrote: > arrays. They come in different number of output channels per chip, too. > there's likely maximum number of individual ICs that can be > daisy-chained before clock skew becomes a problem.   I'm sure an operating system could help there.

Robert Roland <fake@ddress.no>: Jun 29 08:29PM +0200 > This will be a rarely used tool, and will be stored in my non-climate >controlled outdoor shed.   > How do I best protect the surface   Rust is caused by oxygen and an electrolyte, which is usually water.   To keep oxygen and water away from the metal, cover the bare metal surfaces with something so that the oxygen and water do not come into contact with the metal. On a tool where the bare metal surfaces need to stay bare, paint will not work. A layer of oil is often a good option. Oil evaporates slowly, clings well to the metal and is relatively easy to wipe off before use.   With metal objects that are kept at outdoor temperature, condensation is the main problem (unless you leave it out in the rain). Metal has a relatively high heat capacity, so when the weather changes from cold and dry to warm and humid, the metal stays cold for a while, causing condensation. If you can keep your tool slightly warmer than the outside air, you will greatly reduce condensation and therefore rusting. You don't need climate control. You only need to keep it somewhat warm. -- RoRo

etpm@whidbey.com: Jun 29 09:48AM -0700 On Fri, 28 Jun 2019 03:59:55 -0700 (PDT), "pfjw@aol.com"   >https://makezine.com/2007/05/30/35-avr-oscilloscope-clock/   >Peter Wieck >Melrose Park, PA     I have seen both links. The top one charges $100.00 plus shipping for the kit minus a CRT. I may go this route. The bottom link is to the kit that is no longer available. But I can download the files for the PC boards and the code for the microcontrollers. I did mention this in my post. Eric

etpm@whidbey.com: Jun 29 09:51AM -0700 On Fri, 28 Jun 2019 16:06:50 +0100, Geo <nhhu-o3hu@dea.spamcon.org> wrote:   >https://www.ebay.com/itm/Oscilloscope-Clock-Kit-for-many-crt-types-Wifi-OR-gps-CRT-Cathode-ray-tube-Scope/303198819933?hash=item46980ed65d:g:84wAAOSw3dxbTimZ Yeah, I saw that kit. $170.00 and he doesnt't even show a picture of the clock display. It's too bad I didn't think about doing this a few years ago when a board could be had for $34.00! Eric

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