Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 25 updates in 6 topics

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: May 30 10:36AM -0700

On Thu, 30 May 2019 05:59:08 -0700 (PDT), Tim R <timothy42b@aol.com>
wrote:
 
>It's probably worse than with CFLs because of the concentrated area
>where the heat is produced, right?
 
Maybe. LED's are certainly more efficient.
Lumens/watt
LED 100
CFL 60
Incandescent 16
For equal amounts of light output (lumens), a CFL lamp takes 1.7 times
as much power to produce that light as does an LED. That's a big
difference, but not as spectacular as the 6.3 times jump from
incandescent to LED.
 
You're concerned about "heat" with measured in Joules where
1 joule = 1 watt/second
What I think you want is the final operating temperature of the device
to make sure that it doesn't melt plastic, degrade the LED's, destroy
electronic components, or set fire to the vicinity. The final
temperature has many parameters, most of which are NOT the same for
LED and CFL. For radiation loss, the surface area of a CFL lamp is
larger than the equivalent LED, and is therefore a more efficient heat
radiator. While the LED might waste fewer watts than the CFL light
heating up the room, the CFL will remove the heat from the lamp more
efficiently because it has a larger surface area. The LED compensates
for its smaller size by using aluminum heat sinks, while the CFL has a
larger thermal mass by using ceramics. Lots of other differences
making a general conclusion rather difficult.
 
>What isn't obvious to me, having looked at the internals, is why the
>orientation would have more than a trivial effect. That heat looks
>pretty trapped no matter where the base faces.
 
Also maybe. The various lamps will move heat using conduction,
radiation, and convection. All three mechanisms are involved in
determining the final temperature of a lamp. In a light fixture, the
ability of move air through the fixture to remove the heat via
convective air currents is restricted. Without air flow the
temperature of the lamp will rise. If the air flow is uneven, there
will be hot spots on the lamp surface. Some lamps are more tolerant
to heating than others. My plastic case MR16 LED lamp was probably
the least tolerant. High temperature halogen incandescent lamps are
quite happy at much higher temperatures. LEDs lose half their light
output going from room temp (25C) to operating temperature (100C)
<https://www.lrc.rpi.edu/programs/nlpip/lightinganswers/led/heat.asp>
which is why LED heat sinks are much better and larger than CFL which
can tolerate higher temperatures.
 
 
--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Jun 02 02:26PM -0700

They are found in both our houses. That you wish to make a virtue of ignorance is what is funny in a sad sort of way.
 
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
Lucifer <LuciferMorningstar@bigpond.com>: Jun 03 03:17PM +1000

On Sun, 2 Jun 2019 14:26:16 -0700 (PDT), "pfjw@aol.com"
 
>They are found in both our houses. That you wish to make a virtue of
>ignorance is what is funny in a sad sort of way.
 
To whom are you replying and about what?
 
tabbypurr@gmail.com: Jun 03 02:17AM -0700

On Monday, 3 June 2019 06:17:03 UTC+1, Lucifer wrote:
 
> To whom are you replying and about what?
 
> >Peter Wieck
> >Melrose Park, PA
 
probably me. By stating that something exists, when I merely claimed the norm [in the UK] was something else. From a guy that thinks the SMPSU produces more heat than it's load. And that it's the ballast or control unit that determines a LED's spectral output. Let it go.
 
 
NT
Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com>: Jun 02 11:48PM

I didn't know people still do this...
 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dRI0ZLTP6_0
tabbypurr@gmail.com: Jun 03 02:14AM -0700

On Monday, 3 June 2019 00:48:36 UTC+1, Cursitor Doom wrote:
> I didn't know people still do this...
 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dRI0ZLTP6_0
 
not many do. I've seen homemade tubes of all types & CRTs too
 
 
NT
Pat <forums@greensdomain.com>: Jun 02 12:56PM -0400

On Sun, 2 Jun 2019 15:57:22 -0000 (UTC), Cursitor Doom
>wave rectifying tube/valve? Is it normal for them to become too hot to
>touch after only a minute or two?
>I'm talking specifically about the 5Y3GT in this context.
 
Vacuum Tubes (Valves) work by heating the cathode to "boil off"
electrons. The 5Y3 has a 5v filament that draws 2 Amps. So that's 10
watts even without any current flowing in the plate circuit. So, yes,
I would expect it to get hot quickly.
Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com>: Jun 02 05:12PM

Thanks, guys. They'd juxtaposed it with a VR150 which quickly reached a
similar temperature due to its proximity. I just thought that was a
rotten layout, but clearly it's not a concern in that case.
 
 
 
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Fred McKenzie <fmmck@aol.com>: Jun 02 01:21PM -0400

In article <qd0rl2$qaj$6@dont-email.me>,
> wave rectifying tube/valve? Is it normal for them to become too hot to
> touch after only a minute or two?
> I'm talking specifically about the 5Y3GT in this context.
 
Voltage drop times current, filament (cathode) to plate, plus voltage
times current across filament. Never measured temperature, but energy
has to go somewhere. Gets hot, radiates.
 
Fred
Fred McKenzie <fmmck@aol.com>: Jun 02 01:25PM -0400

In article <qd101u$qaj$10@dont-email.me>,
 
> Thanks, guys. They'd juxtaposed it with a VR150 which quickly reached a
> similar temperature due to its proximity. I just thought that was a
> rotten layout, but clearly it's not a concern in that case.
 
Its not proximity. Voltage times current. Gets hot.
 
Fred
Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Jun 02 01:31PM -0400

In article <cpv7fehagjbe95m4g57hl0vplumcge63s3@4ax.com>,
forums@greensdomain.com says...
> electrons. The 5Y3 has a 5v filament that draws 2 Amps. So that's 10
> watts even without any current flowing in the plate circuit. So, yes,
> I would expect it to get hot quickly.
 
That is not even counting on power flowing in the tube as you mentioned.
 
With out looking it up, I would expect the tube to drop around 20 or
more volts. So at 100 ma and 20 volts, that is another 2 watts to add
to the 10 watts of just the filament.
 
Even some of the smaller glas tubes can get hot enough you can not pull
them out after short time unless you have asbestos fingers.
Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Jun 02 12:29PM -0700

On Sun, 02 Jun 2019 12:56:58 -0400, Pat <forums@greensdomain.com>
wrote:
 
>electrons. The 5Y3 has a 5v filament that draws 2 Amps. So that's 10
>watts even without any current flowing in the plate circuit. So, yes,
>I would expect it to get hot quickly.
 
Ah yes, but you can get far more efficient Sovtek 5Y3GT tubes
(thermionic valves):
<https://shop.ehx.com/item/5y3gt/tubes-vacuum-sovtek/>
which features a filament that draws only 2mA +/- 0.2mA 5V or 10
milliwatts.
 
I like the description on the data sheet:
<https://shop.ehx.com/catalog/addimages/5y3gt-sovtek.pdf>
MINIATURE DOUBLE ANODE KENOTRON IN GLASS DESIGN
WITH OXIDE-COATED INDIRECTLY HEATED CATHODE INTENDED
FOR RECTIFICATION OF COMMERCIAL-FREQUENCY ALTERNATING
CURRENT.
That explains why one gets frequent commercials on TV sets that use
Sovtek 5Y3GT kenotrons.
 
 
--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
Sjouke Burry <burrynulnulfour@ppllaanneett.nnll>: Jun 02 11:40PM +0200

On 02.06.19 17:57, Cursitor Doom wrote:
> wave rectifying tube/valve? Is it normal for them to become too hot to
> touch after only a minute or two?
> I'm talking specifically about the 5Y3GT in this context.
 
Draw a lot of current and you get a lot of heat.
 
Dont want the heat?
lower the current, or use bigger components and cooling.
Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com>: Jun 02 09:48PM

On Sun, 02 Jun 2019 13:21:58 -0400, Fred McKenzie wrote:
 
> Voltage drop times current, filament (cathode) to plate, plus voltage
> times current across filament. Never measured temperature, but energy
> has to go somewhere. Gets hot, radiates.
 
Er, yes. That wasn't quite what I meant, but never mind. My fault for not
being clear enough having re-read it.
 
 
 
 
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Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com>: Jun 02 11:54PM

On Sun, 02 Jun 2019 23:40:29 +0200, Sjouke Burry wrote:
 
> Draw a lot of current and you get a lot of heat.
 
> Dont want the heat?
> lower the current, or use bigger components and cooling.
 
Thank you, Captain Obvious.
I can't see what was so misleading about the wording in my original
question that's causing some folks to misinterpret it.
Anyway, the first two respondents told me all I wanted to know so many
thanks to them and their excellent comprehension skills.
 
 
 
 
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Lucifer <LuciferMorningstar@bigpond.com>: Jun 03 03:12PM +1000

On Sun, 02 Jun 2019 12:29:53 -0700, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>
wrote:
 
> CURRENT.
>That explains why one gets frequent commercials on TV sets that use
>Sovtek 5Y3GT kenotrons.
 
What about cold cathode tubes?
Boris Mohar <borism_void_@sympatico.ca>: Jun 03 03:30AM -0400

On Sun, 2 Jun 2019 15:57:22 -0000 (UTC), Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com>
wrote:
 
>wave rectifying tube/valve? Is it normal for them to become too hot to
>touch after only a minute or two?
>I'm talking specifically about the 5Y3GT in this context.
 
 
I melted solder on top of 5Y3GT
 
 
Regards,
 
Boris Mohar
 
Got Knock? - see:
Viatrack Printed Circuit Designs (among other things) http://www.viatrack.ca
 
void _-void-_ in the obvious place
 

 
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adrian@poppyrecords.invalid.invalid (Adrian Tuddenham): Jun 03 09:26AM +0100


> Draw a lot of current and you get a lot of heat.
 
> Dont want the heat?
> lower the current, or use bigger components and cooling.
 
Just a little nit-pick here:
 
You will get exactly the same quantity of heat (energy) if you use
bigger components and cooling - but you will get it at a lower
temperature.
 
This leads to the curious situation that if you need to dissipate a lot
of energy, it should be possible to do it in a smaller space by using
valves rather than by using transistors which have to run at lower
temperatures.
 
 
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~ Adrian Tuddenham ~
(Remove the ".invalid"s and add ".co.uk" to reply)
www.poppyrecords.co.uk
Arie de Muynck <no.spam@no.spam.org>: Jun 03 11:07AM +0200

On 2019-06-02 21:29, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
> CURRENT.
> That explains why one gets frequent commercials on TV sets that use
> Sovtek 5Y3GT kenotrons.
 
Fortunately the datasheet really specifies 2A not 2mA. I was already
imagining a fake tube with 2x 1N4007 inside, and a 2mA LED to 'light up'
the cathode...
 
Arie
micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Jun 02 06:10PM -0400

In alt.home.repair, on Mon, 3 Jun 2019 04:03:38 +1000, "Rod Speed"
 
>You don't have to do leds that way, its easy to have a constant
>current linear supply. How easy it is to find something in the
>specs on ebay or amazon tho is harder to say but they do exist.
 
You've gotten too technical for me. Maybe people in the group I added
can tell me where to buy what you're suggesting.
"Rod Speed" <rod.speed.aaa@gmail.com>: Jun 03 09:18AM +1000

"micky" <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com> wrote in message
news:39i8fepibbfteglk7m8pp278dmdgkcc1sf@4ax.com...
>>specs on ebay or amazon tho is harder to say but they do exist.
 
> You've gotten too technical for me. Maybe people in the group I added
> can tell me where to buy what you're suggesting.
 
Quite a few sold everywhere are like that.
 
I use Philips Hues which likely are fine but that
system is very expensive for just the one led light.
Peeler <troll@trap.invalid>: Jun 03 01:46AM +0200

On Mon, 3 Jun 2019 09:18:13 +1000, cantankerous trolling geezer Rodent
Speed, the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again:
 
 
> I use Philips Hues
 
I told you already several times, you can shove your Philips Hues up yours,
senile Ozzie pest!
 
--
FredXX to Rot Speed:
"You are still an idiot and an embarrassment to your country. No wonder
we shipped the likes of you out of the British Isles. Perhaps stupidity
and criminality is inherited after all?"
Message-ID: <plbf76$gfl$1@dont-email.me>
bitrex <user@example.net>: May 30 04:07PM -0400

A guy on social media (natch) who had a faulty Korg Oasys ($8000
synthesizer) trying to DIY repair the switching power supply, and posted
photos of himself having extracted the fucking primary-side PFC boost
filter cap, 470uF 450 volts, having convinced himself this was the
faulty part because it didn't read exactly 470uF on a DMM.
John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: May 30 05:21PM -0700

On 2019/05/30 1:07 p.m., bitrex wrote:
> photos of himself having extracted the fucking primary-side PFC boost
> filter cap, 470uF 450 volts, having convinced himself this was the
> faulty part because it didn't read exactly 470uF on a DMM.
 
And the technician who finally is called in to fix this will have to
deal with all sorts of the cheap owner's crappy work including broken
traces, ripped out feed through holes...
 
John :-#(#
KenW <ken1943@invalid.net>: Jun 02 10:56AM -0600

On Sun, 2 Jun 2019 15:57:22 -0000 (UTC), Cursitor Doom
>wave rectifying tube/valve? Is it normal for them to become too hot to
>touch after only a minute or two?
>I'm talking specifically about the 5Y3GT in this context.
 
Ever hear of "hot as hell" ? They can get so hot you can't touch them
unless turned off.
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