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Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com>: Jun 02 03:57PM Gentlemen,   What are the typical average/maximum operating temperatures of a full wave rectifying tube/valve? Is it normal for them to become too hot to touch after only a minute or two? I'm talking specifically about the 5Y3GT in this context.         -- This message may be freely reproduced without limit or charge only via the Usenet protocol. Reproduction in whole or part through other protocols, whether for profit or not, is conditional upon a charge of GBP10.00 per reproduction. Publication in this manner via non-Usenet protocols constitutes acceptance of this condition.

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Jun 01 09:58AM -0700 On Saturday, 1 June 2019 15:11:12 UTC+1, N_Cook wrote: > D2516AETA > ps board Grundig XST194-1V-0 > LG Display LC220WEI   Lytic caps don't bulge by design. If they're bulging, they're going into failure.     NT

Chuck <ch@dejanews.net>: Jun 01 12:56PM -0500 >D2516AETA >ps board Grundig XST194-1V-0 >LG Display LC220WEI These caps are known for failing. Replace all of them.

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Jun 01 02:02PM -0700 >Getting inside a TV for the all too common reason, to divert the crappy >internal speakers to something decent, ie larger for some bass, externally.   I prefer to use a hi-fi or entertainment contrivance that already has proper external speakers and better bass/treble controls. I usually need to couple it through an isolation xformer to avoid hummmmm caused by a ground loop.   >3 caps on the ps marked "G-LUX" 470uF, 10V gold and black all with >exactly the same degree of bulge.   G-Lux is the abrev for G-Luxon capacitors: <https://www.google.com/search?q=g-luxon+capacitors> They merged with Teapo Electronic Company of Taiwan in 2005: <http://www.teapo.com/Web-En/History-en.aspx> which means those caps were probably some of the first caps out of the factory in China.   >Beko 22WLP530HID, 2008   The TV is 11 years old. Maybe it's time to replace the bulging caps. If you can make them fit, I suggest a higher voltage rating. -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Jun 01 07:33PM -0400 In article <bro5feh81f987l2bhovk54pmq38oj7bs7q@4ax.com>, jeffl@cruzio.com says...   > The TV is 11 years old. Maybe it's time to replace the bulging caps. > If you can make them fit, I suggest a higher voltage rating.   Higher voltage is ok, but higher temperature is probably better. I think 105 deg C is the higher ones now.

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Jun 01 07:33PM -0700 On Sat, 1 Jun 2019 19:33:08 -0400, Ralph Mowery >> If you can make them fit, I suggest a higher voltage rating.   >Higher voltage is ok, but higher temperature is probably better. I >think 105 deg C is the higher ones now.   Yep. 105C is better.   In computahs, I've been replacing bulging electrolytics with aluminum polymer caps. They're substantially more expensive, but that's not an issue for simple recapping of a motherboard, where the quantities of caps used are small. Most of the better motherboards already use polymer caps instead of electrolytics, especially near the rather warm CPU. I have yet to replace a polymer capacitor, while electrolytic replacements are epidemic.   Here's the Mouser selection of 470uf 16v polymer caps: <https://www.mouser.com/Passive-Components/Capacitors/Aluminum-Electrolytic-Capacitors/Aluminum-Organic-Polymer-Capacitors/_/N-bmaie?P=1z0wrk5Z1z0z7l5Z1yx4aw3> Unfortunately, 16v is as high a voltage that can be commonly found. Mouser only has one cap rated at 25v: <https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/KEMET/A750MS477M1EAAE015?qs=M6jHmRuQorU%252BFZ0HJe9oAQ%3D%3D>   No clue what's happening in the TV business. My guess(tm) is that they continue to use the cheapest parts possible on the assumption that using expensive parts, which might outlast the other overheating parts in the TV, is bad design economics.   "Bad Electrolytic Capacitor Teardown" <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tKphKWAkeSU> (4:32)       -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Rheilly Phoull <rheilly@bigslong.com>: Jun 02 09:20AM +0800 On 1/06/2019 10:18 pm, N_Cook wrote: > each bank does. > Then if one is lost etc, then purchase a basic learner r/c and transfer > the relevant data.   Dunno, maybe the Logitec Harmony series could help ?

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Jun 01 03:25PM -0700 On Thu, 30 May 2019 12:51:20 -0700 (PDT), Tim R <timothy42b@aol.com> wrote:   >> as much power to produce that light as does an LED. That's a big   >I doubt that's true. Flash power, the first 3 seconds of operation >for an LED, might be 100 lumens per watt, but I think 60 is more realistic.   That's correct, if you include: 1. Losses through any lenses or reflectors. 2. Losses in the switching power supply. 3. Losses in any power factor correction circuitry. 4. AC power is power factor corrected.   Easy enough to measure. I have enough junk from my flashlight tinkering to measure lumens, but not with any great accuracy. Here's how I do it with flashlights, bicycle headlights, spot lights, and any light that generates a round spot on a wall. <https://groups.google.com/forum/#!original/rec.bicycles.tech/UJdJQFTDgl8/NgOZUloVCwAJ>   I found new LED "flood" light in my collection. <https://www.feit.com/products/bulbs/flood-and-spot/led_lampsreflectorr_ledsrr_and_brbr30-927-led-can/> 750 lumens 12.5w Notice that there's plastic diffuser in front of the LEDs.   Plugging it into my Kill-A-Watt watt-guesser, I measure: 12watts 15VA 0.78PF (power factor) which seems about right. Luminous Efficacy = 750lumens / 12watts = 63 lumens/watt So, you're correct if I include all the losses.   However, the numbers I provided were for the raw LED at room temperature and does NOT include all the losses.   Might as well grind the numbers for CFL. I found one of these in my collection: <http://www.greenliteusa.com/en/lights/1684-26w-t2-ultra-mini-spiral.html> 1700 lumens 26 watts Measuring with the Kill-a-Watt meter: 26watts 37VA 0.70PF Luminous Efficacy = 1700lumens / 26watts = 65 lum/w   Hmmm... looks like the LED (with the diffuser) is almost as bad as CFL. I suspect the diffuser loss is what's causing the lower efficacy for the LED, but I don't have LED bulb handy to prove it. I'll see if I can find or borrow one, at least with a glass lens, not plastic. According to this chart: <https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Luminous_efficacy#Lighting_efficiency> the LED floodlight should have been about 100 lum/W.   >fingers tell me when changing both while hot.) (and that's probably >because an LED doesn't have vacuum inside the globe, it has air >that's in contact with the emitters)   Temperature (C or F) is not the same as heat (calories) which is not the same power (watts) which is not the same as energy (joules or watts/second). Also, there are several different types of efficiencies and efficacy: "Energy Efficiency of White LEDs" (2009) <https://www.fcgov.com/utilities/img/site_specific/uploads/led-efficiency.pdf>   <https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Luminous_efficacy#Lighting_efficiency> Overall luminous Overall luminous efficacy lum/W efficiency LED screw base lamp (120 V) Up to 102 Up to 14.9% 9- 32 W compact fluorescent 46 - 75 8 - 11.45% (with ballast)   Kinda looks like the LED produces about twice the light output of the CFL, for the same amount of input power. However, my measurements say they're about the same.     -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

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