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"jew pedophile Ron Jacobson (jew pedophile Baruch 'Barry' Shein's jew aliash)!" <rj@TheWor1d.com>: Jul 18 10:12AM -0700 On Thu, 18 Jul 2019 09:08:12 -0700, "fake vet Afro-Eyetalian Scatboi   >> What if it is some jew asshole? Are you 'anti-semitic'®™ or >> something???   >Only when it comes to self-hating jew cunts!   Good to know.

"Arlen G. Holder" <arlingholder@nospam.net>: Jul 18 06:45PM On Thu, 18 Jul 2019 08:11:52 -0700, Jeff Liebermann wrote:   > It's probably inside the generator enclosure. Just look for another > rats nest of wires. The thresholds, timing, interlock, etc settings > are usually adjustable.   Hi Jeff, I agree with you, and I can clearly see that there is a rat's nest inside the generator, which must be doing the initial sensing of the power in the first place, as you mentioned.   I think my task is EASIER than looking at that rat's nest inside the generator though, since all I need are the wires coming OUT of the generator.   I'm not sure yet where to FIND those wires inside the transfer switch, but I think the first (and only?) place I need to look is at what the pins of that "plastic solenoid" do... <https://i.postimg.cc/s20K8nkZ/transfer04.jpg> since that solenoid seems to send the purple and blue wire 12VDC to the "double-fisted solenoid" to switch power from the mains to the generator. <https://i.postimg.cc/tgDN6rqM/transfer06.jpg>   > that State Electric took one look at the mess and ran away. There > might be some lower voltage coming from the charger trying to charge a > dead (shorted) cell.   I understand and appreciate this assessment, where there's LOTS I didn't mention (which is always the case in such things), mainly the fact being I "think" it was me who pulled those fuses long ago and forgot to put them back (I think I was testing them but I don't actually recall).   Also, you're actually correct that the battery in the generator WAS dead, since I had disconnected it to charge it, and then I had left it disconnected where the charge eventually bled off. I actually had to jumpstart the generator when the power last went out, but I have since charged the battery (I'm gonna put quick connect clamps on the battery at some point, which will help in the charging process since I have multiple spare batteries I swap in and out of that generator).   > 2. Every controller I've seen has a self-test and/or test-run > feature. You should be able to test the transfer switch with the > test-run button instead of reworking the wiring.   This is good to know, for two reasons: 1. This is dangerous stuff so having safe tests is required, and, 2. Most of what I read suggested testing MONTHLY (which is crazy frequent)   > feeding the transfer switch should go to a double breaker on the main > panel. Flip it open, check that there is now no AC on the contacts or > anywhere in the rats nest of wires, and then troubleshoot.   Thanks for that advice, Jeff, as I'm well aware of the power, but I'm not sure yet how to test a transfer switch. It does seem prudent to test the transfer switch ISOLATED from BOTH the mains and the generator.   Preventing the generator from turning on should be easy as it has a power switch and it requires the battery so it's easy to prevent it from turning on.   I'm not totally sure simply turning OFF the mains will isolate the transfer switch - but that's simply because I'm currently ignorant of the wiring diagram (which is one reason you said to do that first).   If the power goes from the power pole to the utility meter to the main 200 Amp breaker switch, and THEN to the transfer switch, then doing all tests with the main 200Amp circuit breaker off is prudent. (Obviously I'd doublecheck with the Fluke DMM.)   > 2. Draw as schematic diagram and label everything. If this were my > headache, that's the first thing I would do.   Yup. I agree. I had wanted from this question on Usenet to first get a general idea of how these transfer switches work - which - I think I kind of now have - but the exact wiring of every connection is still needed before I can effectively troubleshoot.   Generac sent me the owners manual for my 09067-9 generator, which contains exploded diagrams, for example, here's the exploded diagram of the 09067-9 Generator Control Panel: <https://i.postimg.cc/qq326cBh/Generac-Control-Panel-9067-9-16345-Page-19.jpg> And the wiring diagram for the 09067-9 generator itself: <https://i.postimg.cc/wMg9DggX/Generac-Generator-Wiriing-Diagram-9067-9-16345-Page-14.jpg>   And here's the exploded view for the 79848A transfer switch: <https://i.postimg.cc/Hx4VqSLt/Generac-Transfer-Switch-Exploded-Diagram-9067-9-16345-Page-18.jpg> And the wiring diagram for the 79848A transfer switch: <https://i.postimg.cc/1XFTVs7N/Generac-Transfer-Switch-Wiring-Diagram-9067-9-16345-Page-15.jpg>   > 3. If you know a local electrician, who won't turn you in to the > county, have him look at the wiring and make some recommendations.   Once, I called a well pump guy, and told him I had a problem, which he fixed, but I told him before he came out to charge me based on the fact I would be standing there right next to him as he debugged, asking him questions while he did the work in front of me.   It was then that I noticed he simply replaced entire circuit boards, simply by the process of pulling them out, putting the new one in, and finding that it worked, so he was about to take the old circuit board "home" with him, where I said if I'm paying for the new one, I want the old one (I still have it). Some day I'll figure out specifically what's "wrong" with it. :)   A similar thing happened with the heater repairman, who simply replaced the main circuit board, but he insisted that there was a core charge which _he_ wanted back - and that he's have to charge me for that - so he got the core charge, not me.   I learned from that that these guys replace the entire board rather than figure out what's wrong ON the board.   Given that replacing things seems to be what the repair techs do also, in this case, I think I have three options, two of which are what many people use, while the third option is the approach I'm currently trying: 1. Replace everything, one by one, until the damn thing works 2. Pay State Electric or Spiess Electric to fix it (in my presence) 3. Debug the damn thing (after first figuring out how it works)   Personally, I like to debug first, where simply UNDERSTANDING how the circuit works usually causes the offending part to SCREAM OUT that it's broken.   To that end, I'll follow your advice and start marking up the panel with a label of the purpose of each of the myriad connections.

"Arlen G. Holder" <arlingholder@nospam.net>: Jul 18 06:46PM > saying but long term I would get the one they spec. You could go to an > electrical supply or order them online. Home Depot is only going to > have the most popular sizes and ratings.   Thanks for that helpful advice where I gave up trying to source at a local hardware store since I had tried three local box stores, none of which sold the Buss BBS-4 or BBS-5 600V fuses o Ace, Home Depot, Lowes   I called Generac today, where I was surprised to find that they don't have an "opening" time - their customer support is open 24/7/365, which is surprising in this day and age, don't you think? o 888-GENERAC (888-436-3722) extension 4, extension 2 (or 262-544-4811)   They confirmed there is no separate manual for the 79848A transfer panels; the transfer panels are covered in the 32-page owners manual (PN 98374) for the Generac 09067-9 8KW propane generator itself (where the manual is mostly about the generator but it does have a few pages about the transfer switch).   There IS a parts diagram though, which gave me the Generac part numbers o PN 63617 Transfer Relay <https://i.postimg.cc/s20K8nkZ/transfer04.jpg> o PN 73590 BSS-2 Fuse 2A <https://i.postimg.cc/DwTNdMhv/transfer05.jpg> o PN 71340 100Amp 2pole Relay <https://i.postimg.cc/TYq0GY8x/transfer03.jpg> etc.   Generac told me the cheapest place to get the parts is usually o <https://www.jackssmallengines.com/> But they also said there is a good Generac parts lookup engine at o <https://www.ordertree.com/>   Where I ran a quick price survey of the three parts above for reference: o PN 63617 Transfer Relay $18 at Jacks, $25 at Tree o PN 73590 BSS-2 Fuse 2A $6 at Jacks, $9 at Tree o PN 71340 100Amp 2pole Relay $243 at Jacks, $287 at Tree etc.   The nice thing about Usenet is that I like to give back to the team, as you're aware (where I respond to all that are helpful at the same time I try to ignore the worthless trolls) - where these two outfits "seem" to be generally useful to source manufacturure parts for MORE than just Generac. o <https://www.jackssmallengines.com/> o <https://www.ordertree.com/>   Do folks here know of other outfits useful for sourcing common brand name part numbers for these types of electrical parts (pumps, motors, openers, etc.)?

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Jul 18 06:36PM -0700 On Thu, 18 Jul 2019 18:45:43 -0000 (UTC), "Arlen G. Holder" ><https://i.postimg.cc/qq326cBh/Generac-Control-Panel-9067-9-16345-Page-19.jpg> >And the wiring diagram for the 09067-9 generator itself: ><https://i.postimg.cc/wMg9DggX/Generac-Generator-Wiriing-Diagram-9067-9-16345-Page-14.jpg>   The wiring diagram of the generator shows the (missing) controller, with all the connections to the automatic transfer switch. Pg12 of the manual, lower schematic, shows wires 23 and 194 going to the transfer switch. Since the other end of these wires goes only to the solenoid (relay) coil, I would presume that these should have 0V across them when the transfer switch is on utility power, and 12VDC(?) when it on generator power. Put an LED and resistor across both solenoid coil terminals so you can see what's happening without fumbling with a volts guesser.   Unfortunately, there's no schematic for the controller logic board which runs the show. Near the controller logic board is SW1, which is the "start/stop" switch. That should NOT activate the relay on the transfer switch. This is the generator test switch which I previously indicated was on all such autostart generators.   SW2 is labeled "Set Exercise Switch" which is something like a "test" switch but also is not intended to test the transfer switch. There should be something in the manual on how to use this switch. Here's a video that might offer a clue on what I think is a similar generator: "How To Set Exercise Time on Generac Air Cooled Generator Pre Nexus Controller APSwrap" <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Go0qt4n0dhs> There's quite a bit on how a proper test switch should operate: <https://www.google.com/search?q=automatic+transfer+switch+test>   This is a typical generator test which demonstrates proper operation: "Home Generator Transfer Test" <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=im1a-fST3cE>   Also on the schematic is the fuse F1 (15A), which appears to protect the controller 12VDC battery line. Check this fuse if you have a good 12VDC battery, but no controller function. If this 15A fuse is actually blown, you potentially have a high current short somewhere in the generator on the 12VDC line. Be careful tracking this one down.   ><https://i.postimg.cc/Hx4VqSLt/Generac-Transfer-Switch-Exploded-Diagram-9067-9-16345-Page-18.jpg> >And the wiring diagram for the 79848A transfer switch: ><https://i.postimg.cc/1XFTVs7N/Generac-Transfer-Switch-Wiring-Diagram-9067-9-16345-Page-15.jpg>   Remember, you have but one life to give for your backup power system.     -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

"Ron D." <ron.dozier@gmail.com>: Jul 19 09:32AM -0700 1. Note that it's a "Transfer Switch" and not an "Automatic Transfer Switch"   A Transfer switch is noting but a "BIG Relay" which is designed so mains and utility power CANNOT be connected at once if a part failed.   Emergency panel   If the generator is too small for the house, then you put the loads that need power in an emergency on a single panel. (e.g. refrigerator, sump pump etc)   The "automatic" part might do a number of things such as: 1. monthly/weekly test 2. monitor oil level 3. Exercise generator or generator and transfer. 4. make sure utility power is stable before taking generator offline. 5. Implement cool down phase. 6. The generator exercise period may top off the battery. 7. Monitor voltage/frequency 8. manage starting   So, voltage and frequency out of range will prevent transfer. Oil level will prevent generator from starting automatically.   You may have two sub-panels and a pool. The pool does not get generator backup. Looks like your missing stuff like fuses. You may just have a 12 V signal that tells it to transfer. It may or may not need power to keep it in one position. I did not look at the details.

Stu jaxon <stankowalski02@gmail.com>: Jul 19 06:06AM -0700 On Thursday, July 18, 2019 at 7:14:06 AM UTC-4, John-Del wrote:   > with tv on, no 12v on either side of fb, with lvds disconnected, i got zero ohms, so it's a bad tcon board, that's shorted.. ?   > With the LVDS harness disconnected, run the TV one more time and make sure you have 12V on the harness. Most of the time, a shorted TCON will cause the 12V supply that feeds it to shut down, but there's a chance the 12V source could have been damaged as well. If there's no 12V, check the main for an open surface mount fuse (these are generally white on Vizios with a letter on them).   > If you get 12V on the disconnected LVDS connector, then just a TCON should get you going. If you have the time, you can check for shorted chip caps. These are brown, about the size of that ferrite bead, and have no markings. One way is to feed a current regulated supply set to 2 amps right at that ferrite bead to force feed the TCON to see what gets hot. A frost covering from a can of freeze spray will often give you a visual of what's drawing the current (whatever thaws first).   if your talking about the harness connector cn702, I get 11.97v on green wire, 11.98 v on the yellow wire. nothing on the red and orange wires. 5v on brown wire. and just for your info I got a little anxious and ordered the tcon board arrive yesterday, got nothing no pic... the main board is recently purchased also from ebay .. I think i got both from electroparts..

John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Jul 19 07:18AM -0700 On Friday, July 19, 2019 at 9:06:08 AM UTC-4, Stu jaxon wrote:   > > With the LVDS harness disconnected, run the TV one more time and make sure you have 12V on the harness. Most of the time, a shorted TCON will cause the 12V supply that feeds it to shut down, but there's a chance the 12V source could have been damaged as well. If there's no 12V, check the main for an open surface mount fuse (these are generally white on Vizios with a letter on them).   > > If you get 12V on the disconnected LVDS connector, then just a TCON should get you going. If you have the time, you can check for shorted chip caps. These are brown, about the size of that ferrite bead, and have no markings. One way is to feed a current regulated supply set to 2 amps right at that ferrite bead to force feed the TCON to see what gets hot. A frost covering from a can of freeze spray will often give you a visual of what's drawing the current (whatever thaws first).   > if your talking about the harness connector cn702, I get 11.97v on green wire, 11.98 v on the yellow wire. nothing on the red and orange wires. 5v on brown wire. and just for your info I got a little anxious and ordered the tcon board arrive yesterday, got nothing no pic... the main board is recently purchased also from ebay .. I think i got both from electroparts..     Did you try your original main board back in with the new TCON? You may have added a problem where none existed before.   There are two 12V inputs going to that TCON/FRC board. The CN702 four wire connector (which will have 12V , 5V, and ground) and the larger LVDS harness CN4404 where the ferrite bead smd component is.   So on CN 702, you have the 12V and 5V, so that's OK.   On the ferrite bead near the LVDS, you should have 12v as well. I don't know if they're sourced from the same 12V supply or not, but you should have 12V on that ferrite bead. Your earlier post said you did not have 12V on that ferrite bead and were reading a short to ground. Is this correct? If you unplug the LVDS harness, the short on the ferrite bead to the TCON ground will either go away or remain. If it goes away, the problem is on the main. If it stays, the short is on the TCON.   Be aware that fair percentage of boards bought on-line are defective regardless of where they're purchased. There are no new parts available for these, so any part you buy is from a recycled donor, and none of these mass parts sellers check them. They strip the carcass of it's boards, sell them, and replace or refund the money if they get a complaint. If the donor TV failed with the same defective board you have, you'll have the same issue.   This is why we go through several tests before estimating the job for the customer, and why we repair about 95 percent of the boards we see.   There are several guys in our association that sell parts on ebay, but these guys are technicians who will only sell verified boards.   The good news is that Electroparts is a good company and they'll replace or refund without question.

Richard Edwards <ejb@fastmail.fm>: Jul 18 05:55PM -0700 On Saturday, July 13, 2019 at 8:53:53 PM UTC+10, Richard Edwards wrote:   > if anyone can help me out or point me in the right direction that would be greatly appreciated.   > Regards   > Richard   Thanks to everyone for the responses and offers. I think I have enough to go on. Will update once/if i resolve...

Pat <forums@greensdomain.com>: Jul 18 06:11PM -0400 On Thu, 18 Jul 2019 09:49:23 -0400, "Percival P. Cassidy" >nothing at all: it does not struggle to cut but simply does nothing; it >appears to be totally dead.   >Perce   To the OP: "Slowing down" vs "working one second and totally off the next" is a function of battery chemistry (and how the electronics handle state of charge). I've used Craftsmen and Ryobi tools for a long time. The older NiMH amd NiCd batteries would slow down but still be usable for that one last cut. However, the Li-ion batteries are designed to protect themselves from being overly discharged. If the voltage gets too low, the battery is disabled until it is recharged. As others have stated, yours sounds like it needs to be replaced.   Pat

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