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"Arlen G. Holder" <arlingholder@nospam.net>: Jul 18 04:22AM On Wed, 17 Jul 2019 23:34:03 -0400, Clare Snyder wrote:   > The transfer switch needs to be sized fir the total LINE capacity, not > just the genset   Thanks Clare. That makes sense then as to why the puny generator is only 67 Amps, but since the Mains is 200 Amps, it needs two transfer switches of nominally 100 Amps each.   > mal-adjusted. If the genset voltage does not reach a specified value > it will NOT switch over. That voltage may be adjustable or the sensor > may be shot,   Thanks for that analysis, which I can't argue with.   Some of these voltages appear to be hard coded, based on this sticker <https://i.postimg.cc/Jn85TgZg/transfer11.jpg>   > Was a blown chip onthe board that was no longer available for > replacementby Flight Systems - the only facility in North America that > services the board which has been obsolete since 2015   I'll start looking up where to source spare parts, after calling Generac tomorrow (1-800-GENERAC) to see if they still sell parts for this 79848A.   One problem I realized is that I lost 2 of the Buss fuses, which "may" be why both transfer switches aren't turning on when the power goes out and the generator turns on.   Funny thing is that advertisement for a similar transfer switch seems to have the "green" Buss 600Volt fuses spec'd at 2 Amp based on this picture of the Buss SBS-2 (green color code) for sale <https://www.picclickimg.com/00/s/MTIwMFgxNjAw/z/LgUAAOSw64NckUJ-/$/Generac-Transfer-Switch-100-Amp-250-VAC-One-_57.jpg> <https://i.postimg.cc/1X200QR3/transfer21.jpg>   Notice those are "SBS-2" green 600Volt fuses (not BBS!).   The sticker on the side panel of that transfer switch for sale, and on my side panel both say the same thing, which "implies" 2 amp fuses at 600VAC. <https://i.postimg.cc/KzWDDzcG/transfer09.jpg>   My fuses appear to be red (not green), and they appear to be o BBS-4 (not SBS) o BBS-5 (not SBS)   So what's odd is that mine are higher amperage, but also a different three letter code (mine are BBS while the one for sale is SBS).   I tried to get these fuses at Home Depot, Lowes, and Ace today, but none of them stock these fuse sizes in the 600 VAC rating. <https://i.postimg.cc/DwTNdMhv/transfer05.jpg>   I realized I'm _missing_ two fuses, where, I don't recall, but maybe I removed them to test them and never put them back? It would have been a long time ago (a year or two) so the _first_ thing I'm gonna do is source those Buss fuses after figuring out why some are 4amp and some are 5amp.   I'm not sure _why_ some are the red 4 amp and some are 5 amp though (while the originals seem to be green 2 amp).   Googling, SBS does NOT stand for "slow blow" but for fast-acting! <https://www.ferrazfuses.com/cms_admin/fckeditor/editor/filemanager/connectors/php/bin/Midget%20Gen%20Pur%20SBS.pdf>

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Jul 17 09:25PM -0700 On Thu, 18 Jul 2019 03:22:39 -0000 (UTC), "Arlen G. Holder" >label on the outside panel, which I found buried under stuff.   >This DEFINITELY WORKED so it's NOT miswired. The only problem is that the >solenoids are not automatically kicking on.   Let me guess... State Electric Generators formerly in Harvey West Park? They moved to Scotts Valley: <https://www.stategen.com> High prices and so-so work. You could do worse. State does much better work than what I saw in your photos which suggests that they were fixing something.   >If I switch the SECOND one also, then I get the full house.   >So my main problem is troubleshooting why the double-fisted solenoid is not >automatically turning on.   Try this video. Notice that the relays switch based on the condition of one input wire labeled "transfer". "Generac automatic transfer switch explained, demo" <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rT_3JYZS9Mg> The "transfer" line on the terminal strip comes from the electronics that detects that the utility power has dropped and that the generator has produced stable power for XX number of seconds. When it gets both of those, it grounds the "transfer" wire, which closes the relay, etc. In other words, your problem is not in the relay box, but rather in whatever you're using for electronics to detect utility and generator power (and timers). In the above video, it's the black box with all the terminals and colorful labels. I don't see such a box full of electronics in your photo: <https://i.postimg.cc/c49KfVwY/transfer01.jpg> Find the "transfer" terminal, disconnect whatever is connected to it, ground it, and see if it acts like the relay in the video.   Incidentally, 200A service should use 2/0 copper (or 4/0 Aluminum or CCA) minimum. In some counties, it's 3/0 copper minimum. That doesn't look like 2/0 in the photo. More like #4. Color me very suspicious.       -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

"Arlen G. Holder" <arlingholder@nospam.net>: Jul 18 05:01AM On Wed, 17 Jul 2019 21:25:30 -0700, Jeff Liebermann wrote:   > High prices and so-so work. You could do worse. State does much > better work than what I saw in your photos which suggests that they > were fixing something.   You are pretty good Jeff, as these are the two stickers on the cover <https://i.postimg.cc/GmMxjVLY/transfer27.jpg>   I generally obfuscate where I live, but suffice to say I can probably see your house from where I am, or close to it. :)   > of one input wire labeled "transfer". > "Generac automatic transfer switch explained, demo" > <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rT_3JYZS9Mg>   I'm glad the narrator said he couldn't find out how it worked online, which is exactly the type of answer I'm asking about here.   At 34 seconds he explained what that cryptic "194" meant! <https://youtu.be/rT_3JYZS9Mg?t=34> And he explained what that cryptic "23" meant on my panel! <https://i.postimg.cc/tgDN6rqM/transfer06.jpg> Where: o 23 === ground o 194 === +12VDC So I can now test the two-fisted solenoid by putting 12 VDC across them, which is what the generator should do, which will "transfer" the power from line power to generator power. (This is what I've been doing manually with the mechanical lever.) <https://i.postimg.cc/HxWxgCnd/transfer28.jpg>   The narrator then showed that when the PG&E power is restored, the generator will _remove_ that 12VDC, which flips the two-fisted solenoid back to "line" power.   The one bit of confusion is that he said at 90 seconds that each solenoid is controlling 240 volts, but I think it might only be controlling 120 volts (but I'm not sure if it's controlling 120V or 220V yet). <https://youtu.be/rT_3JYZS9Mg?t=90>   He then explained the transfer is controlled from the "plastic relay". <https://i.postimg.cc/s20K8nkZ/transfer04.jpg>   > the terminals and colorful labels. I don't see such a box full of > electronics in your photo: > <https://i.postimg.cc/c49KfVwY/transfer01.jpg>   I agree his box is different than mine, where mine is just like this one: <https://picclick.com/Generac-Transfer-Switch-100-Amp-250-VAC-One-153421838181.html>   Mine and that one for sale are "simpler" looking than his is.   > Find the "transfer" terminal, disconnect whatever is connected to it, > ground it, and see if it acts like the relay in the video.   I think it should be easy to put 12VDC onto pins 23 & 194, but I need to get a bunch of those BBS-4 and BBS-5 fuses first.   So my current plan is: a. Source the two missing BBS-4 (or?) BBS-5 fuses. b. Then test with 12VDC to see if the double-fisted solenoid operates   If that makes it work, then my problem is likely the "sensing" circuitry, where this sticker explains all that sensing circuitry is hard coded, I think: <https://i.postimg.cc/Pr7zGN11/transfer12.jpg>   > CCA) minimum. In some counties, it's 3/0 copper minimum. That > doesn't look like 2/0 in the photo. More like #4. Color me very > suspicious.   You have a good eye, where all I can say is that I didn't wire it. I did INCORRECTLY say it was 300 Amp mains service, where, when I shined a light on it and put chalk on the mains breaker, it turns out to be 200Amp service. <https://i.postimg.cc/g2VRj758/transfer25.jpg>   What's odd is that there are _three_ 100 Amp sub panels! <https://i.postimg.cc/NFX84jNP/transfer26.jpg>   Which seems kind of strange, but I didn't wire anything and all the permits that were pulled were closed, so, it must make sense (code wise).   Two of those 100 Amp panels are in the house, and one is at the pool.   I need to call Generac (800-GENERAC) where I'm confused about the fuses o Why BBS-4 _and_ BBS-5 fuses? <https://i.postimg.cc/DwTNdMhv/transfer05.jpg>   Once I source those hard-to-get fuses, I will test the 12VDC at cryptic pins 23 & 194. <https://i.postimg.cc/tgDN6rqM/transfer06.jpg>   If the double-fisted solenoid does not trigger... <https://i.postimg.cc/TYq0GY8x/transfer03.jpg>   then we know that the sensing circuit isn't working to put 12VDC across those two pins. <https://i.postimg.cc/s20K8nkZ/transfer04.jpg>   Thanks for that wonderful video.   I'm a bit leery of what I can test with the MAINS connected though, since the power is currently running fine ... so I will need to be careful since it's only once a month that the PG&E power goes out for me to run the full test.

"Arlen G. Holder" <arlingholder@nospam.net>: Jul 18 05:45AM On Thu, 18 Jul 2019 05:01:27 -0000 (UTC), Arlen G. Holder wrote:   > I agree his box is different than mine, where mine is just like this one: > <https://picclick.com/Generac-Transfer-Switch-100-Amp-250-VAC-One-153421838181.html>   This is closer, but not exactly either, I think: <https://www.generator-parts.com/manuals/home-standby/078590.pdf>   Apparently, they recommend testing the transfer switch _monthly_ <https://www.ecmweb.com/contractor/test-transfer-switch>   This has a transfer switch testing sequence <https://testguy.net/content/227-Transfer-Switch-Testing-and-Maintenance-Guide>   I found a paper copy of the 32-page owners manual, part number 98374 which is titled "Generac II Emergency Power Systems Owner's Manual" (revision 0, dated 11/22/1995) and which contains a generic parts list and exploded diagram for both the generator and transfer switch (apparently they come as a matched set).   The four fuses in the exploded diagram just say 2 Amps 600Volts, but I wonder if mine are double that because there are two transfer switches (where on the net, the video Jeff provided _also_ used red 4 amp fuses!). <https://youtu.be/rT_3JYZS9Mg?t=123>   I found that two outfits will sell generac parts to the public online: <https://www.jackssmallengines.com/> <https://www.ordertree.com/>   I'll call Generac tomorrow to get more details. 888-GENERAC (888-436-3722) extension 4, extension 2 1-262-544-4811

Micky-Bob <micky-bob@internet.net>: Jul 18 06:03AM -0400 On 7/17/19 10:37 PM, Fox's Mercantile wrote: > This is just another one of your long rambling posts that > goes on and on so you can listen to yourself.   > Kindly go fuck yourself.   +1

"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Jul 18 04:22AM -0700 Don't Feed The @#$%^&*()_)(*&^%$ Troll!

"jew pedophile Ron Jacobson (jew pedophile Baruch 'Barry' Shein's jew aliash)!" <rj@TheWor1d.com>: Jul 18 05:29AM -0700 On Wed, 17 Jul 2019 16:28:13 -0700, "fake vet Afro-Eyetalian Scatboi   >> Got a schematic of how you wired it? If not, trace the wires and make >> one.   >Liebermann? Is that jewish?   What if it is some jew asshole? Are you 'anti-semitic'®™ or something???

"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Jul 18 05:36AM -0700 See what trolls drag in their wake?

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Jul 18 08:11AM -0700 On Thu, 18 Jul 2019 05:01:27 -0000 (UTC), "Arlen G. Holder"   >If that makes it work, then my problem is likely the "sensing" circuitry, >where this sticker explains all that sensing circuitry is hard coded, I >think: <https://i.postimg.cc/Pr7zGN11/transfer12.jpg>   Methinks your first problem is finding the box that controls the automagic transfer switch (which contains the sensing, timing, and switching logic). Something like this: "Automatic Transfer Switch Controller Tutorial" <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NeqhhcRAwTM> It's probably inside the generator enclosure. Just look for another rats nest of wires. The thresholds, timing, interlock, etc settings are usually adjustable.   I have two guesses:   1. The +12VDC that runs the relay is probably missing because the starter battery in the generator is dead, or the fuse that protects it is blown. That might explain the missing fuses. It might also be that State Electric took one look at the mess and ran away. There might be some lower voltage coming from the charger trying to charge a dead (shorted) cell.   2. Every controller I've seen has a self-test and/or test-run feature. You should be able to test the transfer switch with the test-run button instead of reworking the wiring.   Also, I have some suggestions:   1. Don't play with the transfer switch with the utility AC power applied. The life you save may be your own. The undersized wires feeding the transfer switch should go to a double breaker on the main panel. Flip it open, check that there is now no AC on the contacts or anywhere in the rats nest of wires, and then troubleshoot.   2. Draw as schematic diagram and label everything. If this were my headache, that's the first thing I would do.   3. If you know a local electrician, who won't turn you in to the county, have him look at the wiring and make some recommendations.   -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Jul 18 09:07AM -0700 Jeff:   The creature that calls itself Arlen G. Holder is trying hard for a Darwin Award.   For its sake, and ours, please let it win!   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

"Colonel Edmund J. Burke" <Your_Colonel@usa.com>: Jul 18 09:08AM -0700 On 7/18/2019 5:29 AM, jew pedophile Ron Jacobson (jew pedophile Baruch 'Barry' Shein's jew aliash)! wrote:   >> Liebermann? Is that jewish?   > What if it is some jew asshole? Are you 'anti-semitic'®™ or > something???   Only when it comes to you, you self-hating jew cunt!

ehsjr <ehsjr@verizon.net>: Jul 18 01:40AM -0400 On 7/17/2019 4:15 PM, Percival P. Cassidy wrote: > powering still run at full speed/power? For the short time that it does > work, it performs well even with a circular saw in thick plywood.   > Perce     Yup. You said 5 paralleled pairs. Think what happens if say four of those pairs have high internal resistance and one pair is good. You'll be able to get high current for a short time from the good pair, which will discharge way more rapidly under load than it would if all the pairs were good. As it discharges, it can no longer maintain the high current so the tool slows.   Ed

"Percival P. Cassidy" <Nobody@NotMyISP.net>: Jul 18 09:49AM -0400 On 7/18/19 1:40 AM, ehsjr wrote:   > pair, which will discharge way more rapidly under load than it > would if all the pairs were good. As it discharges, it can no longer > maintain the high current so the tool slows.   The tool does not slow with this battery. I make a couple of cuts, and then a few minutes later when I want to make another cut, there is nothing at all: it does not struggle to cut but simply does nothing; it appears to be totally dead.   Perce

Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Jul 18 09:04AM -0500 On 7/18/19 8:49 AM, Percival P. Cassidy wrote: > then a few minutes later when I want to make another cut, there is > nothing at all: it does not struggle to cut but simply does nothing; it > appears to be totally dead.   It's worn out, not repairable. Buy a new one, or two. <https://www.ebay.com/itm/192048790357>     -- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com

"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Jul 18 07:17AM -0700 I am not so sure I would trust my tools with an after-market knock-off of dubious parentage and entirely unknown origin.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Jul 18 08:06AM +0100 > Now, on a couple of occasions, a local machine in operation stepped all over the locks nearby. One being an open MRI machine, the other being a defective hyfrecator. Both cases were solved with by installing shielded locks (and the hyfrecator was also replaced, of course). Do you have any unusual equipment within about 20' of that lock, especially something that is intermittent in use?   > Peter Wieck > Melrose Park, PA   Interesting , I could see electronics connected to metalwork set in a wooden door, being susceptible to electronic smog, but only the decoding side of things or all , not just the power side of the delatching. But over much the same time as this problem, they installed a unit that uses the LoRaWAN structure , <>850MHZ. It has enough power for city-wide data capture but limited to a short data-squirt ,probably less than 10KB, every 15 minutes, unlikely to affect this codelock over 30/40 attempts I'd have thought, but it would explain the intermittency. Also the RF from its external antenna and external generation, has to pass through an external wall and 1 or 2 internal walls to get to this door. Whether there is insufficient/lack of choking on the DC supply wiring to this unit and large amount of RF being propogated over the mains wiring of the building 4 times an hour , unknown.   -- Monthly public talks on science topics, Hampshire , England <http://diverse.4mg.com/scicaf.htm>

"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Jul 18 04:35AM -0700 All it takes is one component within the lock to be sensitive to the interference - and to be "stunned" for some period after the initial hit to explain your 30/40 attempts.   Otherwise, the gremlins have it in for you, personally.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Jul 18 01:43PM +0100 > Otherwise, the gremlins have it in for you, personally.   > Peter Wieck > Melrose Park, PA   There is no ferrite ring or clamp-over on any of the visibly exposed part of the DC cable to the external monitor+transmitter. I have to wonder how any hyfrecator gets thru EMI/RFI compliance tests.     -- Monthly public talks on science topics, Hampshire , England <http://diverse.4mg.com/scicaf.htm>

"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Jul 18 05:59AM -0700 On Thursday, July 18, 2019 at 8:43:55 AM UTC-4, N_Cook wrote:   > I have to wonder how any hyfrecator gets thru EMI/RFI compliance tests.   They don't. Medical equipment for specialty surgical use. Not subject to compliance requirements.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Jul 18 04:14AM -0700 On Wednesday, July 17, 2019 at 8:11:46 PM UTC-4, Stu jaxon wrote:   > > U4402 and u4407 should have something like 3.3 on one, and 1.8 volts on the other (typical Vizio reg voltages) measured at the tabs.   > > If those voltages are missing, check voltages on CN4402. There should be 12V and 5V on that connector. If either/both are missing, check for shorts to ground as you did with the ferrite bead. If there are no shorts and no voltages, I'd suspect the main.   > > If the 12 and 5 volt inputs are there on the connector, and the 12 volts is on the ferrite bead, and you can view differential activity on the LVDS connector with a scope, and you can't get a half picture with either display ribbon removed, indications are very strong towards the TCON/FRC board.   with tv on, no 12v on either side of fb, with lvds disconnected, i got zero ohms, so it's a bad tcon board, that's shorted.. ?   With the LVDS harness disconnected, run the TV one more time and make sure you have 12V on the harness. Most of the time, a shorted TCON will cause the 12V supply that feeds it to shut down, but there's a chance the 12V source could have been damaged as well. If there's no 12V, check the main for an open surface mount fuse (these are generally white on Vizios with a letter on them).   If you get 12V on the disconnected LVDS connector, then just a TCON should get you going. If you have the time, you can check for shorted chip caps. These are brown, about the size of that ferrite bead, and have no markings. One way is to feed a current regulated supply set to 2 amps right at that ferrite bead to force feed the TCON to see what gets hot. A frost covering from a can of freeze spray will often give you a visual of what's drawing the current (whatever thaws first).

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Jul 17 11:50PM -0700 three_jeeps wrote:   > I have a few lightning-usb cables that have a damaged lightning plug. > Is there any place to buy just the plug so I can replace the damaged one? > Thanks   ** FYI:   The word lightning refers to a weather event.   There is a data plug trade marked "Lightning" that I suspect you are referring to.   The name "USB" should also be in capitals, as it too is a trade mark.   I doubt anyone sells rewireable version of the Lightning plug.     .... Phil

ehsjr <ehsjr@verizon.net>: Jul 18 01:53AM -0400 On 7/17/2019 6:29 PM, HW wrote: > have been the root cause of the problem, the analysis does not quite > add up. Maybe there is an intermittent problem somewhere?   > Thank you everyone for your comments.   Without a schematic you can't say for certain, but this is a possibility: with the bad cap in there it may be that the Mosfet was turned on 100% of the time, thus a dead short through the inductor to ground, instead of sending pulses to the inductor to charge it. The fuse saved the Mosfet and/or the inductor.   Ed

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