- Fixing a headphone jack - 10 Updates
- Vizio no pic - 4 Updates
- Tip-Cutting Pliers - 1 Update
- Code entry door-lock problem - 7 Updates
- Weird Ryobi battery behavior - 2 Updates
- Transistors - 1 Update
Kirk M <kmath50@gmail.com>: Jul 16 06:26PM -0700 I have a 1990's era AM/FM Cassette player. It works fine, except that it only plays on the left side. The right channel connection isn't making consistent contact. I tried to clean it using a Q-tip, with most of the cotton removed, and it made it worse. If there was a way to reach inside the jack, and slightly bend the right-channel contact, I could probably fix it. I purchased a new unit, and the sound quality just isn't there compared to the old one. Yes, I could just transfer all my old cassettes to digital format, but I don't wish to take the time, since these tapes are mostly from the 1970's, so the sound isn't that great to begin with. I also, don't play them that much. Thanks for any suggestions. Kirk M |
N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Jul 17 08:40AM +0100 On 17/07/2019 02:26, Kirk M wrote: > I purchased a new unit, and the sound quality just isn't there compared to the old one. Yes, I could just transfer all my old cassettes to digital format, but I don't wish to take the time, since these tapes are mostly from the 1970's, so the sound isn't that great to begin with. I also, don't play them that much. > Thanks for any suggestions. > Kirk M As you obviously like old analogue tech and a high lilelihood of one or more of the rubber drive-belts/pulley rim bands will be failing, perhaps you should get inside. As presumably outside of warranty. Inspect belts and see how easy it would be to replace the socket or maybe if awkwardly placed socket, solder in a wired line socket, making a hole in the casing for this wire, bypassing the original. Is there a " repair cafe" near you, just the sort of job that should be up their street, if you are warry of going inside. -- Monthly public talks on science topics, Hampshire , England <http://diverse.4mg.com/scicaf.htm> |
John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Jul 17 04:28AM -0700 On Tuesday, July 16, 2019 at 9:26:38 PM UTC-4, Kirk M wrote: > I purchased a new unit, and the sound quality just isn't there compared to the old one. Yes, I could just transfer all my old cassettes to digital format, but I don't wish to take the time, since these tapes are mostly from the 1970's, so the sound isn't that great to begin with. I also, don't play them that much. > Thanks for any suggestions. > Kirk M If it's self contained with speakers, jump out the jack. If it's a headphone only unit, you'll need to replace the jack. If it's PC mounted, finding one with the same footprint will be tough. Maybe a non working unit on ebay could be found cheap. If the jack is not PC mounted, then pretty much any similar donor will work as long as the donor isn't too large to fit the cabinet. I'd look for a donor machine on ebay with a mechanical problem. |
tabbypurr@gmail.com: Jul 17 05:19AM -0700 On Wednesday, 17 July 2019 12:28:51 UTC+1, John-Del wrote: > > Kirk M > If it's self contained with speakers, jump out the jack. If it's a headphone only unit, you'll need to replace the jack. If it's PC mounted, finding one with the same footprint will be tough. Maybe a non working unit on ebay could be found cheap. If the jack is not PC mounted, then pretty much any similar donor will work as long as the donor isn't too large to fit the cabinet. > I'd look for a donor machine on ebay with a mechanical problem. Yeah, generally. The jack should be replaceable. If not you could always add another jack on the back in most cases. Or - if it's bodge o'clock - solder on a flex, feeding it out of the hole in the jack socket, onto which you can attach a new jack socket. Knot the wire inside, solder is not robust. NT |
tabbypurr@gmail.com: Jul 17 05:21AM -0700 On Wednesday, 17 July 2019 13:19:34 UTC+1, tabby wrote: > > I'd look for a donor machine on ebay with a mechanical problem. > Yeah, generally. The jack should be replaceable. If not you could always add another jack on the back in most cases. Or - if it's bodge o'clock - solder on a flex, feeding it out of the hole in the jack socket, onto which you can attach a new jack socket. Knot the wire inside, solder is not robust. > NT PS a q-tip is not ideal for contact cleaning. If contact cleaner on card fails, try some very fine sandpaper. Better to not sand it if possible, but sanding works when all else fails. NT |
N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Jul 17 02:13PM +0100 On 17/07/2019 08:40, N_Cook wrote: > casing for this wire, bypassing the original. > Is there a " repair cafe" near you, just the sort of job that should be > up their street, if you are warry of going inside. Beware of the physical insertion (ground/shaft switch usually) may cut out internal speaker or an amplified output, so would have to be taken into account -- Monthly public talks on science topics, Hampshire , England <http://diverse.4mg.com/scicaf.htm> |
Kirk M <kmath50@gmail.com>: Jul 17 06:20AM -0700 On Tuesday, July 16, 2019 at 7:26:38 PM UTC-6, Kirk M wrote: > I purchased a new unit, and the sound quality just isn't there compared to the old one. Yes, I could just transfer all my old cassettes to digital format, but I don't wish to take the time, since these tapes are mostly from the 1970's, so the sound isn't that great to begin with. I also, don't play them that much. > Thanks for any suggestions. > Kirk M Thanks for all the replies. This is a "Walkman" type unit, so there is no internal speaker. It is made by GPX. I will see if I can replace the jack. |
Tim Schwartz <tim@bristolnj.com>: Jul 17 09:44AM -0400 On 7/16/2019 9:26 PM, Kirk M wrote: > I purchased a new unit, and the sound quality just isn't there compared to the old one. Yes, I could just transfer all my old cassettes to digital format, but I don't wish to take the time, since these tapes are mostly from the 1970's, so the sound isn't that great to begin with. I also, don't play them that much. > Thanks for any suggestions. > Kirk M Hi, You could also have a bad solder connection from the jack to the PC board. I'd check that first. Regards, Tim Bristol Electronics |
etpm@whidbey.com: Jul 17 08:41AM -0700 On Wed, 17 Jul 2019 09:44:35 -0400, Tim Schwartz <tim@bristolnj.com> wrote: >Regards, >Tim >Bristol Electronics I have a little MP3 player that suffered from what I thought was a bad contact but was just like you said, a bad solder joint. I ended up needing to resolder it a few times and finally had to reinforce the jack so that the joint would stop breaking. Eric |
Kirk M <kmath50@gmail.com>: Jul 17 09:15AM -0700 > needing to resolder it a few times and finally had to reinforce the > jack so that the joint would stop breaking. > Eric Thanks. I will check that too. I am really glad that I learned to solder in my 10th grade electronics class. Very useful skill. |
Stu jaxon <stankowalski02@gmail.com>: Jul 16 02:20PM -0700 On Tuesday, July 16, 2019 at 9:52:27 AM UTC-4, John-Del wrote: > I just ran your model number through Shop Jimmy to see what the board looks like, and it appears there are two different versions of that TV depending on the display installed. One version has the main board connected directly to the TCON, the other has the main board connected to an FRC board which then feeds the TCON. Both versions use a different TCON. > If you have the smaller TCON, there is a white ceramic surface mount fuse marked 3A which should have 12V on it. You will also have the FRC board which is an equal possibility as the TCON board for causing no pix. > If you have the larger TCON, there is a shield over it that covers most of the components and I'll need to see a picture of the board without the shield to point out the fuse. Follow the leads from connector CN4402 under the shield and you should find the fuse. It might be ceramic like the other one or look like a smd resistor. Most non-ceramic fuses used in these types of boards have a single letter on them indicating current. The larger white ceramic ones have the actual current printed numerically on them. couldn't find the fuse, no link to upload a pic.? |
John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Jul 16 03:51PM -0700 On Tuesday, July 16, 2019 at 5:20:31 PM UTC-4, Stu jaxon wrote: > > If you have the smaller TCON, there is a white ceramic surface mount fuse marked 3A which should have 12V on it. You will also have the FRC board which is an equal possibility as the TCON board for causing no pix. > > If you have the larger TCON, there is a shield over it that covers most of the components and I'll need to see a picture of the board without the shield to point out the fuse. Follow the leads from connector CN4402 under the shield and you should find the fuse. It might be ceramic like the other one or look like a smd resistor. Most non-ceramic fuses used in these types of boards have a single letter on them indicating current. The larger white ceramic ones have the actual current printed numerically on them. > couldn't find the fuse, no link to upload a pic.? You could upload to a free hosting site (like https://imgur.com/) and post the link, or you could send them to my spam email (which I monitor): ohger1s/at/aol/dot/com I did find a complete board kit for an E420VA in stock (same TV, smaller screen). The kit I have uses a FRC board and smaller TCON with no shield. If you have that version, I can walk you through it. If you have the larger TCON with the large shield over the board and no FRC board, then you'll have to remove the shield on the TCON. |
Stu jaxon <stankowalski02@gmail.com>: Jul 17 08:33AM -0700 On Tuesday, July 16, 2019 at 6:51:04 PM UTC-4, John-Del wrote: > You could upload to a free hosting site (like https://imgur.com/) and post the link, or you could send them to my spam email (which I monitor): ohger1s/at/aol/dot/com > I did find a complete board kit for an E420VA in stock (same TV, smaller screen). The kit I have uses a FRC board and smaller TCON with no shield. > If you have that version, I can walk you through it. If you have the larger TCON with the large shield over the board and no FRC board, then you'll have to remove the shield on the TCON. i posted it on imgur, under username...stugots77 |
John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Jul 17 09:15AM -0700 On Wednesday, July 17, 2019 at 11:33:12 AM UTC-4, Stu jaxon wrote: > > I did find a complete board kit for an E420VA in stock (same TV, smaller screen). The kit I have uses a FRC board and smaller TCON with no shield. > > If you have that version, I can walk you through it. If you have the larger TCON with the large shield over the board and no FRC board, then you'll have to remove the shield on the TCON. > i posted it on imgur, under username...stugots77 Not found by name. Open the picture you posted, then cut/paste the URL of the actual picture. |
"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Jul 17 08:07AM -0700 https://www.ebay.com/p/Crescent-USA-Made-Old-Stock-4-1-2-Needle-Nose-Tip-Cutting-Wiring-Pliers/28027599507 Not a bad price for a US-made tool. And excellent for reaching-and-clipping. I just purchased three (3) in addition to the two (2) already in use. Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA |
N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Jul 17 08:31AM +0100 Internal security door, battery powered, changing battery made no difference, maker unknown. For some people would work normally and others would repeat 30 or 40 times and still no delatching, so invalidly locked out. Normal proceedure is enter 4 digit code , blue light, turn handle and enter. If red back-light to the keypad then wrong number entered. What might be the problem, each of 30 attempts session say, blue light each time and a slight click of a relay or maybe a solenoid , but no mechanical delatching. Never a buzz sound of say a current limited bad contact to the solenoid , not fully energised coil and oscillation effect. Of course try holding the handle down, not holding handle, forcing handle up/down.sideways, pulling/pushing door makes no difference. -- Monthly public talks on science topics, Hampshire , England <http://diverse.4mg.com/scicaf.htm> |
Rheilly Phoull <rheilly@bigslong.com>: Jul 17 03:40PM +0800 On 17/07/2019 3:31 pm, N_Cook wrote: > contact to the solenoid , not fully energised coil and oscillation > effect. Of course try holding the handle down, not holding handle, > forcing handle up/down.sideways, pulling/pushing door makes no difference. I would first confirm that the solenoid was working properly by seperately powering it. |
N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Jul 17 08:46AM +0100 On 17/07/2019 08:40, Rheilly Phoull wrote: >> difference. > I would first confirm that the solenoid was working properly by > seperately powering it. Unfortunately its not mine, its inside a venue I hire, but I'm one of the people it refuses to work with. The management have brought in the company who supplied it and they "changed the lock" whatever that means, but the same problem. I suspect a mechanical misalignment problem due to someone being locked-out, validlt or invalidly, and very forcibly straining the door/lock as their seems more of a gap at closure of the door , to the frame, than I'd expect for a door. -- Monthly public talks on science topics, Hampshire , England <http://diverse.4mg.com/scicaf.htm> |
Adrian Caspersz <email@here.invalid>: Jul 17 09:31AM +0100 On 17/07/2019 08:31, N_Cook wrote: > contact to the solenoid , not fully energised coil and oscillation > effect. Of course try holding the handle down, not holding handle, > forcing handle up/down.sideways, pulling/pushing door makes no difference. Dodgy keypad? Intermittent connection? The matrix returns an incorrect digit used in some folks 4-digit codes? -- Adrian C |
"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Jul 17 04:05AM -0700 It has been my historical experience, having maintained a few hundred of these devices over time, is that moment such a thing starts to go funny, replace it entirely. Batteries *must* be replaced quarterly - sure, the literature 'suggests' annually, but a low battery will play merry hell with the internal programming, however the manufacturer might suggest otherwise. Given that in my applications, lives, quite literally, depended on the reliable operation of these locks, I took no chances. Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA |
N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Jul 17 02:09PM +0100 > Given that in my applications, lives, quite literally, depended on the reliable operation of these locks, I took no chances. > Peter Wieck > Melrose Park, PA A bit more info the keypad/electronics part is by codelocks.com fitted to Union Locks traditional door furniture including physical key to override the electronics, for if the battery dies, (or erroneous lock out of course). The "company" has returned 3 or 4 times now, but whatever they change, the intermittent functioning returns after they have left. Intermittent in the sense of reliable functioning for numerous days and people and then a continuous batch of failure as I said 30 or 40 times, and return to normal function the next day/s. If a keypad matrix problem then the red light should come on presumably. -- Monthly public talks on science topics, Hampshire , England <http://diverse.4mg.com/scicaf.htm> |
"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Jul 17 06:23AM -0700 The cost of those return visits has well-exceeded the cost of replacing the lock outright. Unless there is some level of local interference (not common, but I have seen this a time-or-four), that lock should have been replaced and should be operating flawlessly. Now, on a couple of occasions, a local machine in operation stepped all over the locks nearby. One being an open MRI machine, the other being a defective hyfrecator. Both cases were solved with by installing shielded locks (and the hyfrecator was also replaced, of course). Do you have any unusual equipment within about 20' of that lock, especially something that is intermittent in use? Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA |
"Percival P. Cassidy" <Nobody@NotMyISP.net>: Jul 16 09:38PM -0400 I have one of the early Ryobi 18V Li-Ion battery packs (I think it's 2.4Ah -- ten separate cells: five paralleled pairs), which the charger shows as full but the test button on the battery indicates low charge state (red glow rather than orange or green). I measure 18V across the terminals, and it drives a tool for several minutes but then will not do anything at all just a few minutes later. Any idea what could be going on here? Perce |
Sjouke Burry <burrynulnulfour@ppllaanneett.nnll>: Jul 17 04:16AM +0200 On 17.07.19 3:38, Percival P. Cassidy wrote: > anything at all just a few minutes later. > Any idea what could be going on here? > Perce Internal resistance buildup due to age, |
John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Jul 16 10:48AM -0700 >> first is marked as follows >> 2001 >> -2J ... > By the way, what's wrong with the original parts? The top was blown off of one of them...might have let the magic smoke out! John :-#)# -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3 (604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out." |
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