| Klay Anderson <mailserver.cctv@gmail.com>: Sep 08 10:58AM -0700 Get yourself a 36w LED retrofit 4000K bulb, remove or fully bypass the ballast and enjoy. |
| tabbypurr@gmail.com: Sep 08 12:25PM -0700 On Sunday, 8 September 2019 02:19:22 UTC+1, Larz wrote: > appears to be 125 W. Since I want to use 175 W mercury vapor instead, > is it possible to swap out the medium base for mogul base and use the > 175 W mercury vapor bulb? It has an H42 ballast, no capacitor. Thank you. Would there be much point? Mercury is obsolete for a reason. Total cost of ownership of a LED light is cheaper. And the light's better. And no warm-up issues. Your fitting/bulb might be free, but the electricity isn't. NT |
| Sjouke Burry <burrynulnulfour@ppllaanneett.nnll>: Sep 08 11:46PM +0200 On 08.09.19 3:19, Larz wrote: > appears to be 125 W. Since I want to use 175 W mercury vapor instead, > is it possible to swap out the medium base for mogul base and use the > 175 W mercury vapor bulb? It has an H42 ballast, no capacitor. Thank you. The ballast and supply voltage determine power, so your 175 watt lamp will not get the power you want to feed it. Lamp an ballast go together. |
| Larz <dispcal667@nospam.net>: Sep 08 07:43PM -0400 On 9/8/19 5:46 PM, Sjouke Burry wrote: > The ballast and supply voltage determine power, so your 175 watt lamp > will not get the power you want to feed it. > Lamp an ballast go together. I'm changing out the ballast for the proper type. It comes with a capacitor. There currently is NOT one with the existing 125 W bulb and ballast and I am wondering if I should include it? |
| Larz <dispcal667@nospam.net>: Sep 08 07:47PM -0400 >> 175 W mercury vapor bulb? It has an H42 ballast, no capacitor. Thank you. > Would there be much point? Mercury is obsolete for a reason. Total cost of ownership of a LED light is cheaper. And the light's better. And no warm-up issues. Your fitting/bulb might be free, but the electricity isn't. > NT I agree about the LED, and I would if I were not using this set up for a the special purpose of attracting insects. The LED does not emit anything close to UV whereas the mercury vapor does and in not harmful wavelengths as long as the envelope remains intact. So, it won't be on all the time, just nights where I want to attract certain insects. I do use LED for just about every lamp in the house, really cut the electric bill after the switch over from incandescents. |
| Sjouke Burry <burrynulnulfour@ppllaanneett.nnll>: Sep 09 01:51AM +0200 On 09.09.19 1:43, Larz wrote: > I'm changing out the ballast for the proper type. It comes with a > capacitor. There currently is NOT one with the existing 125 W bulb and > ballast and I am wondering if I should include it? The cap might be for COS Phi correction, and have no influence on the lamp/ballast combo, just correcting Phi back to zero. In industrial applications that Phi correction is demanded by the power company. |
| tabbypurr@gmail.com: Sep 09 02:04AM -0700 On Monday, 9 September 2019 00:43:23 UTC+1, Larz wrote: > I'm changing out the ballast for the proper type. It comes with a > capacitor. There currently is NOT one with the existing 125 W bulb and > ballast and I am wondering if I should include it? Who knows what that means. Ask us again, but clearly |
| Bennett <bjprice@cal.berkeley.edu>: Sep 09 09:38AM -0700 On 9/7/2019 6:19 PM, Larz wrote: > appears to be 125 W. Since I want to use 175 W mercury vapor instead, > is it possible to swap out the medium base for mogul base and use the > 175 W mercury vapor bulb? It has an H42 ballast, no capacitor. Thank you. Once the ballast is changed, any chance the 175W bulb will overheat in a fixture ?designed? for 125W? |
| John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Sep 08 03:15PM -0700 I've ordered a replacement display chip for our 2013 Benq MW519 projector and I see that the youtube folks say this Digital Mirror Display can't be serviced. So, being the contrary kind of person I am, I figure - well maybe it can? Thus the question - has anyone here played with one of these and if so, any success what so ever? Our display has (so far) 3 bad mirrors roughly near the middle of the screen so somewhat annoying. I figure when I have the replacement (eBay, used, there don't seem to be any new available) in hand then I might be willing to experiment on the sick unit. Unlikely that I can save it, but who knows? Time will come to break out the binocular microscope and see what is going on... John :-#)# |
| John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Sep 08 06:41PM -0700 On Sunday, September 8, 2019 at 6:15:37 PM UTC-4, John Robertson wrote: > Time will come to break out the binocular microscope and see what is > going on... > John :-#)# I've changed a couple of hundred in Mitsubishi and Samsung rear projectors, and the DMD chips were Texas Instruments. https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0189/1890/files/4719-001997_1910-6143W_DLP_Chip_ee98eb65-0def-4d08-94d1-a7bb58da1051.jpg?v=1524157252 From what the engineers told me, the mirror pivots fracture over time leaving some mirrors stuck open and some stuck closed (light and dark spots). I had previously tried heating, cooling, and g-shocking the chips, but there was never any change. I would never use a used DMD unless the customer is informed the replacement may very well start spitting out stars in mere months. |
| John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Sep 08 10:52PM -0700 On 2019/09/08 6:41 p.m., John-Del wrote: > From what the engineers told me, the mirror pivots fracture over time leaving some mirrors stuck open and some stuck closed (light and dark spots). > I had previously tried heating, cooling, and g-shocking the chips, but there was never any change. > I would never use a used DMD unless the customer is informed the replacement may very well start spitting out stars in mere months. I am the end-user of the used DMD, I don't have a part number for the original and so ended up buying a used one. I agree it won't be as reliable as new, but without the part number I was hooped. And we are losing one pixel a day now. Are these still available as new or NOS? Thanks, John :-#)# |
| John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Sep 09 06:37AM -0700 On Monday, September 9, 2019 at 1:52:10 AM UTC-4, John Robertson wrote: > Are these still available as new or NOS? > Thanks, > John :-#)# The ones for the Mitsu and Samsung (same part number) were as recently as 3 months ago when I got one from Mitsu, but supposedly TI is either eliminating production or already has. Does the one you need look like the one in the link I posted? |
| John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Sep 09 08:09AM -0700 On 2019/09/09 6:37 a.m., John-Del wrote: >> Thanks, >> John :-#)# > The ones for the Mitsu and Samsung (same part number) were as recently as 3 months ago when I got one from Mitsu, but supposedly TI is either eliminating production or already has. Does the one you need look like the one in the link I posted? I have not pulled out my original. I am waiting for the replacement before shutting down our home projector... According to the photo on eBay (yeah...!) it does not look like that. This was what I ordered: https://www.ebay.com/itm/223202086282 Thanks for taking the time to respond! John :-#)# |
| John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Sep 09 08:17AM -0700 On 2019/09/09 6:37 a.m., John-Del wrote: >> Thanks, >> John :-#)# > The ones for the Mitsu and Samsung (same part number) were as recently as 3 months ago when I got one from Mitsu, but supposedly TI is either eliminating production or already has. Does the one you need look like the one in the link I posted? TI at least still lists it. I should have thought of searching on TI's site before as I think this is the DMD I am looking for: http://www.ti.com/dlp-chip/display-and-projection/standard-chipsets/products.html?pqs=paqs&familyid=3554#p2841max=WXGA%20(1280x800)&p1907=DMD&p1913=1280x800 or in tinyURL speak: https://tinyurl.com/TI-DMD John :-#)# -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3 (604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out." |
| John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Sep 09 08:25AM -0700 On 2019/09/09 6:37 a.m., John-Del wrote: >> Thanks, >> John :-#)# > The ones for the Mitsu and Samsung (same part number) were as recently as 3 months ago when I got one from Mitsu, but supposedly TI is either eliminating production or already has. Does the one you need look like the one in the link I posted? Mouser has 47 of these DLP650LEFYL DMD chips left in stock @ $153USD. Damn. Should have bought from them! John :-#(# John :-#)# -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3 (604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out." |
| John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Sep 08 06:33PM -0700 On Thursday, September 5, 2019 at 10:23:19 AM UTC-4, John-Del wrote: > Some guy dropped off two car radios from a 67 Fairlane. They are similar but a year apart and they have some differences on the boards. > One just needs a recap but the other has different issues. There are several encapsulated modules in these radios and I'd like to know what it's in them. Cancel Request: A friend had the AR-36 manual. I saw him today at our association picnic and he brought it with him. I just took camera photos and emailed them to myself to print out. |
| John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Sep 08 06:45PM -0700 On Saturday, September 7, 2019 at 2:05:16 PM UTC-4, Fox's Mercantile wrote: > It'll be a bit of a kluge, but you can substitute that > Couplate with discrete components. > -- There's not much in them if I need to replicate one. Back when I was a pup, we had an old 1960s Motorola TV in the shop that had a bad encapsulated module for the vertical circuit that was NLA. I told my dad I'd make one, so I just got a breadboard and put together the half dozen caps and resistors and painted it with Corona Dope (didn't need it, but it looked better). Worked great. |
| John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Sep 09 06:40AM -0700 On Sunday, September 8, 2019 at 9:33:51 PM UTC-4, John-Del wrote: > > Some guy dropped off two car radios from a 67 Fairlane. They are similar but a year apart and they have some differences on the boards. > > One just needs a recap but the other has different issues. There are several encapsulated modules in these radios and I'd like to know what it's in them. > Cancel Request: A friend had the AR-36 manual. I saw him today at our association picnic and he brought it with him. I just took camera photos and emailed them to myself to print out. BTW, if anyone wants a copy of this manual (Ford 6TPO) radio, email me and I'll send the attachments. |
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