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Mark Lloyd <not@mail.invalid>: Oct 15 10:19AM -0500 On 10/14/19 9:27 AM, J. P. Gilliver (John) wrote:   [snip]     > saying "(posted and emailed)". This is because lots of people read their > email first, and reply to emails; if they then find the same thing has > been posted, they find themselves having to say the same thing again.   People doing that inappropriately (and not indicating it) is one reason I stopped putting a valid email address in newsgroup postings.   On usenet, I use addresses ending in .invalid so its obvious its not a real address.   Another suggestion is to read your posts before pressing 'send'. It catches a lot of the weird typing and other errors.   [snip]   -- 71 days until the winter celebration (Wed, Dec 25, 2019 12:00:00 AM for 1 day).   Mark Lloyd http://notstupid.us/   "Faith is a cop-out. It is intellectual bankruptcy. If the only way you can accept an assertion is by faith, then you are conceding that it can't be taken on its own merits." -- Dan Barker

Big Al <Big_Al@invalid.com>: Oct 12 10:52PM -0400 On 10/12/19 9:59 PM, Rene Lamontagne wrote: > I have a Logitech M510 that goes a year on batteries, My new Logitech > M705 is advertized to go 3 years on a pair of alkaline AA cells.   > Rene   I have a logitech M330 and like it so much, had it for quite a while. It also like Rene's says 2 years on battery, but I don't get more than a few months on it. Still mine is a single battery and that consumes less batteries.   My wife's Kindle doesn't last the time Amazon says it will, but then she reads 6 hours a day not the little time they say is typical. I'd say mice batteries are the same, it depends how much you use it. Mine goes to sleep when not used to save battery but if it's used 12 hours a day, that's a lot of drain.   Al

Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Oct 13 08:22AM -0500 On Saturday, October 12, 2019 at 8:58:06 PM UTC-4, MouseUser wrote:> My favorite mouse is acting up.> Buttons double-click on a single-click and sometimes do not click at all. I don't waste my time fixing mice. I have a 5 gallon bucket of mice I've picked up at the local thrift stores from $0.25 to $1.99 each. With and without scroll wheels. Wired and wireless with the transceivers. Even track balls. (My preferred mouse.) USB and P/S2 as well, even a few serial mice. *laughs* I even have a Logitech "Bus Mouse" with an ISA card. If a mouse quits working or starts to get erratic, into the trash it goes. Same goes for keyboards.   -- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com

Arlen _G_ Holder <_arlen.george@halder.edu>: Oct 13 08:54PM On Sun, 13 Oct 2019 20:51:24 -0000 (UTC), Arlen _G_ Holder wrote:   > Do you think even for a second that the OP doesn't know that? > o If the OP was _that_ shallow - he wouldn't have asked the question.   Sorry for the hiccup. The machine crashed and the scripts must have still run. I don't use a newsreader... it's just vi with telnet scripts.   Mea culpa.   BTW, if the OP needs pictures, I have plenty of my IBM mouse refurbish. <https://i.postimg.cc/5tr2SxsL/mouse02.jpg>

Arlen _G_ Holder <_arlen.george@halder.edu>: Oct 13 08:46PM On Sun, 13 Oct 2019 11:33:50 -0700, Ken Blake wrote:   > Half a day? Not me. I'd spend the $20 and just buy a new one.   Here, in the Silicon Valley, I know guys who'd rather make money than spend time with their kids, which I think is the wrong perspective.   Likewise, I know people who'd rather pay someone to maintain their car, rather than maintain it themselves - again - which doesn't help them when they actually NEED to understand how a vehicle works.   I know people who wouldn't fix a mouse - nor help a little old lady cross the road - nor pick up a neighbor's kids from school - all because they can make more money elsewhere.   My point is that if it's only about the money - it's generally shallow. o It's also a waste of resources to throw out working stuff.   People are so shallow sometimes... it's irksome.   Maybe the OP likes to fix things? I mean, there is a "repair" group on the newsgroup list, is there not?

Char Jackson <none@none.invalid>: Oct 12 10:02PM -0500 On Sat, 12 Oct 2019 20:59:49 -0500, Rene Lamontagne <rlamont@shaw.ca> wrote:   >I should mention also that battery life is really not an issue anymore, >I have a Logitech M510 that goes a year on batteries, My new Logitech >M705 is advertized to go 3 years on a pair of alkaline AA cells.   +1   I've been using M705's with multiple PCs since 2013 and love them. I get more than two years on a set of AAs, but who knows how fresh the cells were to begin with.   One thing about the M705 is that it can run on a single battery if you're willing to trade longer battery life for less weight. I don't mind the weight, so I use two cells. Also, there's an LED on top of the mouse that normally lights up green, but changes to red when the batteries are weak. Lastly, I love the mechanical switch that disables the wheel detent, making it easy to scroll up/down at high speed.   --   Char Jackson

"SC Tom" <sc@tom.net>: Oct 13 07:54AM -0400 "Char Jackson" <none@none.invalid> wrote in message news:pb45qe9fh8jvcrhdt9caqmuum8sg9dig11@4ax.com... > Lastly, I love the mechanical switch that disables the wheel detent, > making > it easy to scroll up/down at high speed.   I'm on my 2nd M705- the first one (after 3-1/2 years) was having the same mechanical problems as the OP's mouse. My newer one is 2+ years old and so far is everything it's advertised to be. I use rechargeable batteries in it, and they last about 14-16 months. Since I have a number of these batteries around (I also use them in my various remotes), I always have at least 2 that are charged up and ready to go.   I would definitely recommend the M705 to my friends :-) --   SC Tom

Rene Lamontagne <rlamont@shaw.ca>: Oct 13 04:08PM -0500 On 2019-10-13 3:54 p.m., Arlen _G_ Holder wrote:   > Mea culpa.   > BTW, if the OP needs pictures, I have plenty of my IBM mouse refurbish. > <https://i.postimg.cc/5tr2SxsL/mouse02.jpg>   Is that one of the mice that came over on the Ark? Male or Female? :-)     Rene

nospam <nospam@nospam.invalid>: Oct 13 08:18AM -0400 In article <mtCdnUDmTfAETT_AnZ2dnUU7-b_NnZ2d@giganews.com>, geoff   > Um, isn't that always in effect whatever any digital camera does anyway > ? Or did the Lightning connect thing somehow cripple IOS wrt > read/writability of pix from external devices ?   ios devices have always showed up as a standard digital camera when connected to a computer, no additional software needed.   > Apple, crippling things ? Naaa - not possible.   they do not. quite the opposite. they make things easier, one reason why their products are so popular.   copying photos from an iphone to a computer doesn't need a lightning cable.

jjhudak4@gmail.com: Oct 15 11:46AM -0700 > Go service something, you are useless here on this thread.   > Peter Wieck > Melrose Park, PA   Like most things in service and design of electronic systems (and others), the answer is 'it depends'. The best we can do is provide objective guidance and not absolutes because he needs to understand the trade-offs. From his back ground, sounds like a concept he is familiar with.   In general: If you only are dealing with one thing to service, probably cheaper to buy a set of tubes and change out the old ones. (BUT I've experienced situations where tubes characteristics are different and even a new one may not work - but that is very remote possibility) If your objective is to gain knowledge and apply it to servicing other types of equipment, then getting a 'middle of the road' tester is probably worth it. But it depends on the financial risk you want to take. From my experience, B&K 700 and 707 were fairly standard in repair shops (not engineering shops)Last I checked, a working one on fleabay was around $100 USD. What is difficult to say (because it has been a long time for me) is the number of different types of tubes one can test and their distribution in various electronic devices. I have a portable that has 6-8 sockets in it. I have the B&K 700 that has maybe 15-18 sockets in it. I am rebuilding it and the small tester I have works fine for my needs. You can always sell the tester if it doesn't meet your need or you go in a different direction in your hobby. As far as guidance, the more knowledgeable ppl here can cite low-end, middle of the road, and high end units for you to evaluate.   Tube testing is not always a go/no go result. The value of a number of tube characteristics can combine to make the tube 'questionable' In these situations, the most expedient way to fix the problem is with a new tube. Some ppl may want to get into the details and tease apart the operational conditions of the tube to see what is really going on. Great learning opportunity, time consuming, an you would probably need a tester with a great deal of functions. good luck in your quest.   -j

"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Oct 15 12:28PM -0700 >Snippage<   I have the B&K 700 that has maybe 15-18 sockets in it. I am rebuilding it and the small tester I have works fine for my needs.   This is a nice segue into whether a tester wants to have many switches to set, each one being an opportunity to make a mistake, or many sockets instead - which slightly reduces error opportunities, but proportionately increases the size of the device.   > You can always sell the tester if it doesn't meet your need or you go in a different direction in your hobby.   Yes. I find that they are a slowly appreciating asset, and as time goes on, working examples are fewer and fewer.   > As far as guidance, the more knowledgeable ppl here can cite low-end, middle of the road, and high end units for you to evaluate.   Yes, and the key here is also how far "Back" any given tester goes (all the way back to 4-pin devices), or not, and will it do such things as compactrons. Adaptors are available, but scarce and costly. > Tube testing is not always a go/no go result. The value of a number of tube characteristics can combine to make the tube 'questionable' In these situations, the most expedient way to fix the problem is with a new tube. Some ppl may want to get into the details and tease apart the operational conditions of the tube to see what is really going on. Great learning opportunity, time consuming, an you would probably need a tester with a great deal of functions.   Never 100% go, but certainly what is a No-Go will absolutely be a No-Go (shorts or gassy tube, open filament, and so forth).   On your point of 'even a new tube'.... there are two such tubes out there, being the 19T8 and the 6AQ8 that can be quite annoying. At this moment, I keep three (3) Dynaco FM3 tuners, and I have a total of five (5) 6AQ8 tubes available to me. Of the five, two work in all tuners. Two work in two tuners, one works in only one tuner. All three of them test fairly close together on the Hickok 539B.   And, I have two radios using a 19T8 in the FM section. And four (4) such tubes. None of them work in both tuners. All of them work in one-or-the-other tuner.   Go figure.   > good luck in your quest.   Indeed!   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Oct 15 05:53PM -0400 In article <f89820bd-9668-4151-b4e6-6d829cef85ce@googlegroups.com>, jjhudak4@gmail.com says... > f your objective is to gain knowledge and apply it to servicing other types of equipment, then getting a 'middle of the road' tester is probably worth it. But it depends on the financial risk you want to take. > From my experience, B&K 700 and 707 were fairly standard in repair shops (not engineering shops)Last I checked, a working one on fleabay was around $100 USD.   Seems like the ebay price has gone way up on the testers now. Most worth while are in the $ 300 and up including shipping.   A person can buy a lot of new old stock tubes for that.   Sometimes one can get lucky. I bought one at a hamfest a month a go for $ 55. It in the mutual conductance type. It was made around 1950. It did come with an adaptor and book for many of the more modern tubes. Interisting way to check the multielement compactrons. There is a special socket that allows the tube to be rotated so that the 9 wires from the tester can be placed on all the elements, just not all at the same time.   I don't really like to use a tube tester, but just thought it would be something to play with after not having one for about 50 years.   Most of the time it is quicker for me to takea few voltage readings and resistance readings and feed a signal in to the circuit. I have found on many of the older electronics to suspect the capacitors and carbon resistors first. If a tube lights up , it is seldom bad if the getter is bright silver.

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Oct 15 03:26PM -0700 A Pathetic Old Fuckhead called pf...@aol.com wrote:   -------------------------------------------------- Phil Allison wrote:   > > He has exactly one, old tube radio with no clue how to work on it.   > > A tube tester is the LAST thing he needs to spend money on.   > It must be very difficult for you to be such a paragon of perfection and to be endowed with such god-like powers.   ** Translation - Phil can read an interpret English.     ( snip great big pile of smelly horse manure)     > So, if the OP is inquiring after tube testers,   ** Fraid that is not what the OP posted at all.   > ours is to advise on the choices and implications.     ** The OP asked a quite different question - you PITA, OCD fucked, lying idiot.   > Go service something, you are useless here on this thread.     ** Unlike the autistic Weaky old farf - I am far more use here that he has ever been.   I warned the OP this would happen if he even mentioned the magic words.   ** The OP's question:   " How valuable is a tube tester for someone who is only, or mainly, going to be messing with audio gear and the gear for testing audio gear."   Phil's insightful reply:   ------------------------------------------------------------   ** IME - no use at all.   In 50+ years of working with valve gear, I have never used one and know no-ne here in Sydney who does.   What you NEED is a supply of known good valves to use as substitutes.   The item itself is your "tube tester" and a far better one that anything you can buy - cos it operates the valves under *actual service conditions*.   Others here will say differently, cos they own one of more of the stupid things and *love* them irrationally, like pets.   -----------------------------------------------------------------------   .... Phil

dplatt@coop.radagast.org (Dave Platt): Oct 15 07:15PM -0700 In article <2537fc63-08e7-4169-bdbe-47b8ee7d5bdf@googlegroups.com>,   >And, I have two radios using a 19T8 in the FM section. And four (4) such tubes. None of them work >in both tuners. All of them work in one-or-the-other tuner.   >Go figure.   From what I've read, this is an "often-told tale" - not at all uncommon. "Synergy, or lack thereof" seems to be the issue in a lot of cases.   That is to say, the radios aren't identical. Differences in the characteristics of the other tubes, drifted resistors which affect biasing, etc. make them different, so what the radio may "want" from the tube in question differs.   Some radios (some circuits, rather) are more tolerant of tube parameter variations. Others are finicky... sometimes people take shortcuts with e.g. biasing setups, which means that the tube must fall into a particular range of its possible parameter-space in order to work correctly. Worst-case here is if you see a schematic with a lot of "selected" tubes or other components... that can mean that the circuit is sensitive to component value variation. A batch of tubes which all read "good" on the tester (and which all fall well within the manufacturer's specs) may or may not work.   Also, the testers tend to pick one particular set of operating conditions (e.g. plate voltage) for each model of tube. These conditions may differ significantly from the conditions under which the tube actually operates in a particular model of radio.   So, there's a lot of justice behind the "The best tester for a tube, is the device in which the tube was being used" philosophy.   It would be interesting to know how the 19T8 and the 6AQ8 tubes you have, actually measure out on a good firebottle-capable curve tracer... see just how their parameter sets cluster, and correlate that to the radios in which they do and do not work properly.

Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Oct 13 04:36PM -0500 > A lot of people have that approach. Whether replacing sound > historic caps with new ones that likely won't last is a good > plan is debated.   > NT     And still, you persist in this stupidity. Quality electrolytics these days are quite reliable and long lived. Unless you're buying cheap counterfeits from China.   I've been repairing (which includes blanket recaps) for the past 25 years now, I have yet to have a customer bring back a radio because a cap failed.   Which is exactly why I do what I do.       -- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com

Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Oct 13 02:23PM -0400 In article <5f92671f-9d51-421b-a60c-133e41a5c8f0@googlegroups.com>, tabbypurr@gmail.com says...   > > Does identify terminals in transistors accurately though.   > No-one would accuse them of being quality items, but very handy nonetheless. I hear there is a new version now & then with ever more functionality.   What is interisting is a company called Peak makes several versions for around $ 100. The cheat people that are not informed. One device only tests the solid state devices and the other tests restiors, capacitors and inductors. That way you are forced to buy two of the units.   They are practically the same as the all in one $ 20 device in a fancy case.   They are not lab quality instruments but for $ 20 they work very well at the hobby grade.   As far as forming capacitors, if the capacitor is over 20 years old and there is any doubt, just replace it. I have read that new capacitors are formed at the factory at a slightly higher voltage because they will deterioate just sitting on the shelf. Those may be worth while bringing the voltage up slow on if they have been on the shelf for a long period of time

BillyBob <billybob@noemail.net>: Oct 13 09:48AM -0400 > has at least one bad digit on their LED readout. This one does also. > Cobra made darn good radios, but did they use bad readout boards or > what?   My Cobra has been sitting on the shelf unused for 19 years. Every so often, I energize it and check output and frequency to make sure it is still working and in spec. It is an original 148 GTL made in the Philippines, not the newer crap out of China. There is a difference because I picked up a Chinese made one at a yard sale within the last seven years and it was a very poor performer compared to the originals. Anyway, at some point, I have had to replace the LED on almost every radio I've ever owned but I eventually got smarter and began adding a resistor to dim the display if there wasn't already a bright dim switch present. Made a big difference to keep the LED's dimmed if for no other reason than to extend life. After several replacements and a learning curve, I always ran them on dim after that.

Jim Horton <jhorton@nospam.net>: Oct 15 12:45PM -0400 On 10/15/19 12:32 PM, John Robertson wrote:   > it now work just fine all be it somewhat discoloured if the oil residue > dissolves into it? It just won't look as nice...   > John :-#)#   Interesting question. True about paraffin and oil relationship. Didn't think of that. Well, it was my project. The high voltage transformer was submerged in about 64 oz of mineral oil. It was in a pvc junction box and stayed in there for years. Connections into the box were single hole and single wire, then sealed by RTV or epoxy. Interestingly, it wasn't my seals that leaked. Somehow, the oil seeped into screw holes on the bottom of the PVC box and leaked down into another storage bin I've had the entire thing in just for that purpose in case it ever leaked. I never trust oil filled electronic devices. I used to work on dental x-ray units, which are (were) all metal housings and even vacuum sealed. However, more often that not, even perfect ones in storage would end up with an ounce of oil under them after being stored for years. However, that was a tried and true business, never had to remove oil from anything and if the transformer was bad, it was just junked. Here, with my own project, is obviously a different story if I am going to pot the coil in the paraffin. I think I'm going to pick up a couple of cans of electronic component spray cleaner, which doesn't leave a residue, and spray out the transformer and PVC junction box insides as much as I can, let dry, and then refill with the molten paraffin. I'd like to leave the assembly in the oven for a while to make sure as much air works out as possible, but my oven has a minimal of 170 F. It might be too much, but I'm not sure.

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Oct 15 10:03AM -0700 On 2019/10/15 9:45 a.m., Jim Horton wrote: > like to leave the assembly in the oven for a while to make sure as much > air works out as possible, but my oven has a minimal of 170 F.  It might > be too much, but I'm not sure.   A way to lower your oven temp - if it is a 220 one - is to run it at 120 instead. That was how I lowered the minimum temp on an old 70s style household oven we use in the shop when we need temps around 120 to 150F for curing Smooth-On molds.   John :-#)#

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Oct 15 09:32AM -0700 On 2019/10/15 8:24 a.m., Jim Horton wrote: >  However, I am left with mineral oil residue, not only on the > components to be wax embedded, but any spills, etc, and I'm wondering > what the best way is to remove it?  Thank you!   Perhaps mineral spirits - sometimes called Varsol if I am not mistaken - will do the job.   https://www.wisegeek.com/what-are-mineral-spirits.htm   Is there a problem with coating the parts in wax even if they are still coated in some residual oil? I expect the reason for the paraffin was to waterproof the parts and as paraffin is just another form of oil would it now work just fine all be it somewhat discoloured if the oil residue dissolves into it? It just won't look as nice...   John :-#)#   -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3 (604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

Jim Horton <jhorton@nospam.net>: Oct 15 07:36PM -0400 On 10/15/19 1:03 PM, John Robertson wrote: > household oven we use in the shop when we need temps around 120 to 150F > for curing Smooth-On molds.   > John :-#)#   Well, it seems to be done. I had trouble finding wax locally. Hard to believe place like Walmart doesn't carry it except by special order. I had to travel a bit, but found some at Hobby Lobby. Not cheap, but I did need 6.5 lbs.   Since I am a newbie at this, I first placed the now clean transformer and container in the oven with a wax brick, and set the temp at the lowest setting of 170 F. However, I could see this was going to take forever to melt, so I placed a coffee can within a larger pot and put some water in the pot to reach boiling. It took several melts of the wax, but each time it melted well and I opened the oven and poured it into the transformer box. I have moisture concerns, but it *seems* like any water in the molten wax was at the bottom. I hope that's correct.   I spilled some while pulling out the transformer container to fill it. It was caught by a foil pan I got at the dollar store, but I'm probably going to have a breakaway around the bottom job once solid.   I am letting it cool down slowly. I turned the oven off, but I am keeping the door closed. I don't worry too much since this is an already sealed transformer, but then again I didn't want to cool things too quickly either.   Now to just hope I did it right and the wax does its job as replacement insulator for the mineral oil.

gregz <zekor@comcast.net>: Oct 16 07:29AM > However, I am left with mineral oil residue, not only on the components > to be wax embedded, but any spills, etc, and I'm wondering what the best > way is to remove it? Thank you!   Mineral spirits, Naptha, alcohol ?   Greg

Arlen _G_ Holder <_arlen.george@halder.edu>: Oct 15 04:41PM On Tue, 15 Oct 2019 02:10:34 -0700, Johann Beretta wrote:   > Unlikely. I own a wireless ISP (WISP) in Southern California. I've got a > number of Ubiquiti sectors and parabolics on mountain tops. I've picked > up signals (San Onofre Visitor WiFi as one example) from over 60 miles away.   Hi Johann Beretta,   Usenet is a potluck - where everyone brings what value they can, to share.   to that end, I could tell, instantly, that you had more you could share than most people here (and we already know about Jeff Liebermann, who happens to live near where I am, who also knows a lot about this stuff).   This is great information that you are fully aware of the WiFi power of the type of equipment that we've been trying to discuss here as adults.   What brand do you mostly prefer in your WISP business? o And what specific model of radios?   Here, near where Jeff Liebermann lives (other side of the hill), we all started with the bullets, and then we trashed them for the nano's, which we trashed for the 2.4 GHz rockets, and then, finally, we're kind of happy on the 5GHz rockets.   Less noise for sure.   Since we remove the "old stuff", we end up with a lot of Mikrotik equipment, but we're mostly Ubiquiti.   How about you? o What brand/model equipment do you prefer to erect on rooftops, and why?

dpb <none@none.net>: Oct 15 11:54AM -0500 On 10/15/2019 11:09 AM, Arlen _G_ Holder wrote: ...   > o Only a moron would be confused by "decibel" in place of "dBm" or "dBi". ...   "When I use a word," Humpty Dumpty said, in rather a scornful tone, "it means just what I choose it to mean—neither more nor less."   --

Arlen _G_ Holder <_arlen.george@halder.edu>: Oct 15 05:09PM On Mon, 14 Oct 2019 23:50:03 -0700, Jeff Liebermann wrote:   > <https://www.proxim.com/en/products/knowledge-center/calculations/calculations-fresnel-clearance-zone> > That also applies to objects along the line of sight, such as trees, > hills, buildings, towers, phone poles, and other obstructions.   Hi Jeff,   You're aware we've been fumbling about this WISP stuff on our side of the hill for years (not as long as you, but still years), where, we started with Hughes, then Verizon (now Frontier, I think), then Surfnet, and Hilltop, Ridge, Cooper, ViaSat, etc., you name it, we've tried it.   Since it's a neighborhood effort, we've been learning on our own. o Mostly from failures - but we've had some good success also.   As such, you're likely aware, if you remember, we started with Mikrotik: <https://i.postimg.cc/DfQJq437/mikrotikrouter.jpg> Then we went to bullets, which were infinitely more malleable: <https://i.postimg.cc/SK04C6zL/ubiquiti-bullet-M2-hp.jpg> Then the problematic nanobeams and the more reliable powerbeams <https://i.postimg.cc/CLBXc080/antenna03.jpg> Then, the vastly more satisfying 2.4 GHz rockets: <https://i.postimg.cc/nrkz5mgs/antenna01.jpg> And finally, for the most part, we've settled on 5GHz rockets: <https://i.postimg.cc/yNXw0TZS/antenna02.jpg>   Using the spare equipment from all the mistakes, sort of like this: <https://i.postimg.cc/6QJqK6Cj/desktop02.jpg>   Given that progression of mistakes, my current access point, for the Internet itself, has pretty good numbers of around 55 decibels (let's not quibble about the type or sign) with a clear view of the similarly setup access point miles away as shown in this screenshot below: <https://i.postimg.cc/DZccY2YD/decibels.jpg>   Where those numbers can be obtained by any user who has the line of sight necessary (as always) who also has the same equipment on the other side.   The main advantage though, of this thread, is to ascertain how far can people connect, line of sight, when they only have this equipment on one end.   To that end, my fundamental question, where I'd love to learn more from people like you and Johann who seem to know a LOT more than most people here, is what distances do you think are possible (assuming wholly unobstructed views and sufficient heights to clear the primary Fresnel Zone) for: a. A laptop or desktop that has Ethernet b. With AC power always assumed to be nearby (for the POE & desktop) c. With one of these antennas <https://i.postimg.cc/XJChDCPr/spare-access-points.jpg> With the Ethernet port set up sort of like this: <https://i.postimg.cc/Gh22Sb2N/desktop.jpg>   Given ideal conditions (which pretty much exist where I live), how far do you think we could reasonably connect if we only had this equipment on one end, where, of course, the other end matters.   Let's assume the other end is, oh, I don't know, a typical SOHO WiFi router (what's that ... something like ... oh, maybe 18 decibels ... where I know and remember that you've studied this stuff and they lie in the specs - so we could simply assume whatever you think is the "real" EIRP obtained.   In summary, under ideal conditions, with, oh, say, a Rocket M5 as shown above, how far do you think a laptop/desktop could connect to a decent SOHO WiFI router line of sight (with the primary Fresnel Zone assumed clear).   -- PS: Did you get hit with the PG&E power outage this week? I filed a formal complaint with the CPUC that PG&E was playing games.

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