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Arlen _G_ Holder <_arlen.george@halder.edu>: Oct 17 11:40PM On Thu, 17 Oct 2019 01:44:53 -0700, Johann Beretta wrote:     > I should have added, in my previous post, that I have not used WinBox > for alignment, so I cannot help there. The few times I've done an > alignment (2 or 3 times max) I used the web interface.   Hi Johann,   Thanks for reminding me of the Mikrotik web interface (I've always used the winbox.exe executable), where I just tried that web interface into RouterOS v6.28, which, by all appearances, is "similar but different" from what it looks like inside of WinBox.   One thing in the web interface which is VERY different is that windows get replaced when you click buttons, whereas in Winbox, windows just pop up all over the place, and remain.   > No surprise there as it's in a rather dumb location. Interfaces / WLAN1 > / Near the top (10th button from the left in my router)   Using a variety of browsers...   I tried the same sequence, but received the same result, exactly. a. Log into the web interface of RouterOS v6.28 as admin b. Press "Interfaces" (top left under "Quick Set") <https://i.postimg.cc/6QQ2Lt74/align02.jpg> c. That brings up "bridge1", "ether1" & "wlan1" in the "Interface List" d. Left click on "wlan1" which brings up "Interface <wlan1>" <https://i.postimg.cc/05S6CtNn/align03.jpg> d. Click on the "Align..." button, which brings up "Alignment (Running)" <https://i.postimg.cc/JzpthvTr/align04.jpg>   Same as before with Winbox. o "Align" does nothing (that I can tell) o "Scan" spits out (AP, #, BSSID, SSID, Band, Width, Freq, Strength, Noise, S:N, Name, Version) o "Snooper" spits out #, Freq, Band, Address, SSID, SIgnal, Freq %, Traf %, Bandwidth, Networks, Stations. o Frequency Usage spits out usage and frequency and noise floor for a dozen items o "Sniff" lists packet information such that things move in the display o "Torch" does something, who knows what, but things are moving in the display   As before, I'm going to be like Apple people and just give up, as I'm not going to worry about it, since the radio is pushing signal through floors and walls just fine the way it is, given I have about -40 dBm of signal strength on a desktop that has only Ethernet.   Thanks for trying to help me; I appreciate that, but let's not waste time on this MikroTik alignment stuff as your point is well made that they hide things, but Mikrotik took a Linux-like approach, and, we mostly use Ubiquiti anyway.   The person who needs help, I think, is pjp who has the 1km where he's only got a small window LOS into the trees where he parks his RV away from the house.   -- Usenet is a potluck where adults congregate to share items of value.

Arlen _G_ Holder <_arlen.george@halder.edu>: Oct 18 12:01AM On Thu, 17 Oct 2019 16:09:38 -0000 (UTC), Dan Purgert wrote:   > Because a typical all-in-one router is three devices that should each > cost about $100 (at the low end) crammed into one box and sold for $100.   1. Router (with DHCP) 2. Wi-Fi (802.11 b, g, n) 3. Antenna (with horn) 4. Switch (not shown) <https://i.postimg.cc/s2c2L8Wd/mikrotik-router.jpg>

Arlen _G_ Holder <_arlen.george@halder.edu>: Oct 18 05:19AM On Thu, 17 Oct 2019 21:20:27 -0400, Paul wrote:   > The topography is the enabler. And aiming the dish is more > than half the fun. Not many home users will have two > conveniently placed mountain-tops, to get over the trees.   Hi Paul,   In summary, all pjp needs is to be able to "see" each antenna.   I agree you can go pretty far line of sight, as you just shared with us, where I happen to live on a mountain surrounding Silicon Valley, where I can likely see for more than 20, maybe 30 or more miles in some directions, but only five or ten miles in others.   At WiFi frequencies, the distance pjp can attain will depend on how "clear" his line of sight path is from the home to the RV.   If he can "see" the antenna, then, in our experience, the obstructions in the Fresnel Zone aren't going to kill his signal, as long as he chooses a powerful enough setup.   In the clear, I doubt there is a single Ubiquiti CPE radio that wouldn't treat 1 kilometer as child's play though. A kilometer is nothing for WiFi.   What pjp needs, mainly, is simply the following: a. A radio at his house that can see the radio at his RV. b. A radio at his RV that can see the radio at the house.   I didn't think of this, until you brought up distances, but pjp doesn't really even need AC power at the RV since these radios are about as flexible as anything on this planet when it comes to power supplies.   They're usually able to handle from about 12 VDC to about 24 VDC at about 1 amp to 2 amps peak, which, if pjp only wants the radio working when he's literally sitting in the RV, he can do by mooching off the RV battery.   I haven't ever needed to do that; but it sure seems possible (and, if not, one of the folks on this ng will be glad to ream me with facts).   The main requirement pjp needs is each radio has to each the other. o The radios are about $100 (give or take) depending on the radio   For example: <https://www.ui.com/products/> o Bullet <https://www.ui.com/airmax/bullet-ac/> <https://www.ui.com/airmax/bulletm/> o LiteBeam <https://www.ui.com/airmax/litebeam-ac-gen2/> <https://www.ui.com/airmax/litebeam-m5/> o NanoBeam <https://www.ui.com/airmax/nanobeam-ac-gen2/> <https://www.ui.com/airmax/nanobeamm/> o PowerBeam <https://www.ui.com/airmax/powerbeam-ac-gen2/> <https://www.ui.com/airmax/powerbeam/> etc.   I've never used them, but maybe these "nanostation" pairs would work: <https://www.ui.com/airmax/nanostationm/>   They're designed to mount with "no tools" (or so they say).

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Oct 18 08:26AM -0700 On Fri, 18 Oct 2019 05:19:14 -0000 (UTC), Arlen _G_ Holder   >If he can "see" the antenna, then, in our experience, the obstructions in >the Fresnel Zone aren't going to kill his signal, as long as he chooses a >powerful enough setup.   <https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fresnel_zone> If the system/signal is circular polarized, the Fresnel zone will have no effect, because a deflected circular polarized signal changes rotation upon deflection and the result is to become virtually invisible to the receiver, regardless of whether it arrives in phase or out of phase. For example, a RHCP signal that hits a street, or a wall, or anything else, then becomes a LHCP signal, and is therefore invisible to the RHCP receiving antenna, regardless of whether it arrives at the receiver in-phase or out-of-phase.   In other words, if you happen to be using circular (or at least elliptical) polarization on your link, you can forget about the Fresnel Zone. Most Wi-Fi hardware uses linear (vertical and horizontal) polarization. With linear polarization, the problem is that at various radii from the direct line of sight, the direct signal cancels with a reflected wave, forming "rings" of high and low signal levels. The rings with no signal or total cancellation are where the reflected path is some multiple of 1/2 wavelength longer than the incident path. This does NOT happen with circular polarization, where the polarization changes "sense", where the polarization changed from (for example) RHCP to LHCP when reflected. The receive antenna "sees" both the incident RHCP wave, as well as the LHCP reflected wave. However, since the receive antenna cannot hear the wrong "sense", it only "sees" the incident RHCP wave and no cancellation occurs. So, if you want to build a link that isn't ruined by Fresnel Zone effects, think circular polarization.   Also, if your path goes from a mountain top, to ground level in a valley, and you have to deal with a temperature inversion layer, chances are good that when the inversion layer is particularly noticeable and at some specific altitude, the signal will disappear for a while when it decides to wander off along the inversion line. You might be able to visually see the other end of the link, but can't get a decent RF signal along the same path.   Also, please consider the effects of fade margin or system operating margin. This is how much stronger the signal happens to be than some reference level, usually somewhere near a minimum usable signal level or BER (bit error rate). This fade margin statistically translates to the amount of time per year your link will be down. SOM Reliability Downtime dB Percent per year 8 90 876 hrs 18 99 88 hrs 28 99.9 8.8 hrs 38 99.99 53 mins 48 99.999 5.3 mins 58 99.9999 32 secs For wi-fi, I like 20dB as a good but arbitrary fade margin for calculations.   Lastly, the various link calculations and data sheet specifications tend to be for the BEST case situation. In other words, reality sucks and your results will follow accordingly. Whatever happens along the path, environment, or with the equipment, will ALWAYS increase losses and decrease range. I can post (for find in the Usenet archives) how I do a link calculation if anyone wants it.     Note: I had some surgery Monday, am recovering normally, but feeling lousy. I need some time to recover. Please forgive me if I don't reply to questions and comments immediately.   Bah Humbug(tm). -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Arlen _G_ Holder <_arlen.george@halder.edu>: Oct 18 04:19PM On Fri, 18 Oct 2019 07:15:37 -0300, pjp wrote:     > All I really want is to be able to access shared media from house's pcs > and not need to resort to filling up some thumbdrive or external hd > instead. BTW - you can think of the RV more as a camp, it's never moved.   NOTE TO THE VERY MANY PEOPLE WHO ENDLESSLY QUIBBLED ABOUT TERMINOLOGY: o Now is your golden chance to actually add adult value to help pjp   Hi pjp,   Thanks for confirming that (a) there is 120VAC at the RV, and that (b) the RV is stationary, which means a radio mounted in a tree pointed at the house, within a few hundred feet (or so) of the RV, is feasible.   Only one more thing matters, but not all that much. o What is the "compute device" at the RV end that will use the Internet? a. Is it just a desktop or laptop (in which case, nothing else is needed)? b. Or, will it be cellphones and tablets (which don't have Ethernet ports)?   If it's a single compute device with an Ethernet port, then you don't need anything else at the RV but the treetop radio. If you want multiple devices at the RV which are all Ethernet enabled, then you just need a small switch. If you want cellphones and tablets at the RV, then you need an access point, most easily obtained by plugging in a spare SOHO router.   Up to you - as you'll get DHCP over Ethernet out of the treetop radio.   BTW, the fact you have AC power at the RV is good, but I don't see why you couldn't power the radio with the RV battery, but I haven't tried that - but plenty of people use solar to power radios (I just don't have any experience with it).   If you're gonna plug in a switch (or router) at the RV, then you likely will need AC power, so it's nice you have the AC generator handy at the RV.   All you need then is a matching set of two radios, and a length of Ethernet cable to get to the radios (where the power over Ethernet, which comes with the radios, is almost always placed within a meter or two of the AC power).   HOUSE RADIO: 1. You plug in the house POE to AC power (near the home SOHO router). 2. One end of the house POE goes into the home SOHO router. 3. The other end of the house POE goes into the rooftop radio.   RV RADIO: 1. You plug in the RV POE to AC power (usually very near the RV). 2. One end of the house POE goes into the rv radio. 2. The other end of the RV POE goes into a laptop (or into a spare router).   If we think of signal in terms of the one-way "Internet flow", it goes... a. From the house modem to the house POE to the house radio over cat5 b. From the house radio to the rv radio over the air c. From the rv radio to the rv POE to the RV laptop over Ethernet   I can't imagine that every radio on the Ubiquiti site wouldn't treat a puny kilometer as child's play, but I've learned, over time, that the most powerful radio is usually the most satisfactory (I can't really explain why).   You can choose whether you want 5Ghz or 2GHz, depending on, well, I'm not sure, where I can only think of two reasons, each of which counteract: A. If you need to penetrate "some" foliage, the 2.4GHz is better B. If there are other homes nearby, then the 5GHz is less noisy.   Given almost any radio on the Ubiquiti site would work, I'd suggest you go there and look at your price tolerance, where I'd start by looking at the aforementioned $100 PowerBeam radios first, since they're kind of in the middle of the pack: <https://www.ui.com/airmax/powerbeam/>   Here's a two-pack, for example, at Amazon: <https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-PBE-M5-400-2-pack-PowerBeam-AirMAX/dp/B00UZ03UUW/>   Where you can certainly pay something like half that price for other stuff: o $47 Ubiquiti NanoStation locoM2 2.4GHz Indoor/Outdoor airMax 8dBi CPE <https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-NanoStation-locoM2-2-4GHz-Outdoor/dp/B00DCNRTAG/>   But I have no experience with that 'smaller stuff', but where, I'm sure, others on this ng can let you know if those $50 devices work well enough for you outdoors (which they may very well do well for you ... I just don't have any experience with them myself).   I don't think you can go lower than $100 total cost for the two radios though, and, as someone noted, there are "nuts and bolts" things you may need (like cat5 cable to run up to the roof & tree) that I'm not counting, mostly because we always do just fine with screws and nails lying around, and where Ubiquiti pretty much gives you everything you need but the J-arm or pole itself.   Having said all that, the WISP guys (or the self-described "communinication techs" on this newsgroup (quite a few quibbled about decibels, for example), should be able to advise you on what actual POWER you need at a puny 1 kilometer, as I don't bother with the calculations since all my equipment is overkill for such puny distances to thow WiFi.   BTW, this is a guy who apparently outfits RV parks with WiFi: <http://gnswifi.com/campground_wifi.htm> His site "may" have ideas for you specific to RVs.   NOTE TO THE VERY MANY PEOPLE WHO ENDLESSLY QUIBBLED ABOUT TERMINOLOGY: o Now is your golden chance to actually add adult value to help pjp   -- Hint: Silence is what we typically get from these "semantic specialists" when it comes down to actually providing on-topic adult technical value.

Ed Pawlowski <esp@snet.xxx>: Oct 18 12:32PM -0400 On 10/18/2019 12:19 PM, Arlen _G_ Holder wrote: > Hint: Silence is what we typically get from these "semantic specialists" > when it comes down to actually providing on-topic adult technical value.   Arlen has to make a disparaging remark in most every post. Makes him feel better about himself.

"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Oct 18 09:40AM -0700 > Arlen has to make a disparaging remark in most every post. Makes him > feel better about himself.   Just don't feed the troll, and all will be well.     Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

etpm@whidbey.com: Oct 17 01:08PM -0700 My power comes from a line that is about 2000 feet long and my drop comes from about the middle. It is just two wires, hot up high and the neutral lower. About a month ago one of my trees took out the neutral before my drop. Nevertheless I still had power. What gives? Eric

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Oct 17 02:40PM -0700 > the neutral lower. About a month ago one of my trees took out the > neutral before my drop. Nevertheless I still had power. What gives? > Eric   I'm guessing you're American from the phrasing. Here in UK neutral feeds often have multiple ground points.     NT

Tom Biasi <tombiasi@optonline.net>: Oct 17 11:44PM -0400 > the neutral lower. About a month ago one of my trees took out the > neutral before my drop. Nevertheless I still had power. What gives? > Eric   Are you sure the lower one is a neutral? Do you have 220 volts available?

ehsjr <ehsjr@verizon.net>: Oct 18 01:06AM -0400 > the neutral lower. About a month ago one of my trees took out the > neutral before my drop. Nevertheless I still had power. What gives? > Eric   The neutral wire is grounded at the power utility transformer, typically at the pole on which the transformer is mounted. At your house, the neutral wire from the transformer is connected to the neutral bus in your circuit breaker/fuse panel. Inside that panel there is a connection between the neutral bus and the ground bus. That connection is required by the NEC (National Electrical Code). The ground bus is also required to be connected to the "electrode grounding system" - typically referred to by homeowners as the "ground rod". So with a broken neutral wire you still have a complete circuit from hot to the panel by the unbroken wire, and from neutral at the transformer to ground, through the ground to your "grounding electrode system" which is connected inside your service panel to the ground AND the neutral bus.   Ed

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Oct 18 03:27AM -0700 On Friday, 18 October 2019 06:06:32 UTC+1, ehsjr wrote: > is connected inside your service panel to the ground AND the > neutral bus.   > Ed   required in US yet not allowed in UK. Funny world     NT

etpm@whidbey.com: Oct 18 08:25AM -0700 On Thu, 17 Oct 2019 23:44:28 -0400, Tom Biasi <tombiasi@optonline.net> wrote:   >> neutral before my drop. Nevertheless I still had power. What gives? >> Eric   >Are you sure the lower one is a neutral? Do you have 220 volts available? The top wire is 17,000 volts. The lower is the neutral. Both are tied to a transformer that feeds my house and one across the street. The neutral is also tied to a ground at the pole. There is at least one pole before mine that has a wire going to ground from the neutral. And yes, I did have 220 while the neutral wire was down. I am amazed that the ground could work so well. Maybe it's because the ground here is so wet. Eric

Tim R <timothy42b@aol.com>: Oct 18 08:17AM -0700 Finding wax.   When I worked in a cardboard (corrugated) box plant, we used huge amounts of wax to coat cardboard that was used for seafood and chicken. It came in stacks of 10 pound (I think) slabs.   There was always a huge pile of discarded wax. If you're near a plant, might get some discarded for free. If it gets dirt or oil on a block you can't use it on paper. But you could scrape that off easily.   It comes in various grades. Curtain coat was a shiny white and brittle, then there was a yellowish one that was tougher.   I tried using some of it as bullets, standing an empty cartridge in a pan of liquid wax then letting it harden to fill the neck with a projectile. then use a primer for propellant. The books says it works but it didn't for me. The wax didn't hold together, it just shattered.

Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com>: Oct 18 02:48PM Greetings, gentlemen,   This should have been an easy fix given everything I have on my side, however it's been anything but. I'm about all out of ideas as to how to proceed.   In this section of a board there's a fault:   https://www.dropbox.com/s/o4tybr81cefbk5n/8565A_amp.GIF?dl=1   The fault is somewhere in the "voltage to current input amplifier" part. This is the x-amplifier board that generates the horizontal sweep (a "sawtooth") for the x plates of the CRO display of an RF spectrum analyser. Normally I would simply probe from one stage to the next until the waveform vanished and then I'd know which stage was at fault. I can't do that with this circuit due to two big obstacles:   The stages are all directly coupled. They're in vertical pairs with shared supplies.   This makes them all *interdependent* on each other. Wherever the fault lies is impossible to isolate because owing to this interdependence, ALL 6 transistors are showing 'impossible' DC voltage readings such that none of them can be expected to function properly and pass a signal on to the current-to-voltage section.   Here's another real kicker: the instrument uses a *Y* amplifier board *identical* to the X one in every way. They're interchangeable. So I've tried doing comparative passive resistance checks between the two boards expecting to find the faulty area that way, but even the resistance values on the faulty board are all over the place as well! I would have thought having an identical board to compare with would have saved my arse, but it seems not!   Any suggestions? I don't really want to pull individual transistors at random for out-of-circuit testing on a 40 year old board if I can avoid it.       -- This message may be freely reproduced without limit or charge only via the Usenet protocol. Reproduction in whole or part through other protocols, whether for profit or not, is conditional upon a charge of GBP10.00 per reproduction. Publication in this manner via non-Usenet protocols constitutes acceptance of this condition.

Jim Horton <jhorton@nospam.net>: Oct 18 08:50AM -0400 Ok, so, after careful consideration, I decided on using the recommended 50/50 mixture of beeswax and rosin to pot my two transformers. However, to save costs, I was originally going to try using a smaller housing, which would use 2 lbs of wax-rosin mix instead of the 6 lbs I would have originally needed, but instead of switching out the housings for a smaller one, is there something I can place inside the existing housing that's cheap, would also serve as an insulator like the wax will, and won't be burned or melted by the wax pour? The same idea as using extra stones or bricks in a toilet fill tank so it doesn't use as much water. Thanks!

"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Oct 18 06:22AM -0700 The mixture you are using is liquid at/below the boiling point of water, correct?   Blue-Board insulation is fire-rated and easily carved to fit. Balsa wood is easily carved, but not fire-rated. Dried (heated until completely dry) Bar-sand is cheap, but heavy relative to blue-board or balsa. It is also not electrically conductive, fireproof and may also be mixed directly into the potting mixture.   Note that the potting compound is not meant to insulate against heat, but should be able to absorb and dissipate heat to the housing.   Good luck with it.

vjp2.at@at.BioStrategist.dot.dot.com: Oct 18 06:56AM Is it normal for LEDs to not turn offimmediately?     - = - Vasos Panagiotopoulos, Columbia'81+, Reagan, Mozart, Pindus blog: panix.com/~vjp2/ruminatn.htm - = - web: panix.com/~vjp2/vasos.htm facebook.com/vasjpan2 - linkedin.com/in/vasjpan02 - biostrategist.com ---{Nothing herein constitutes advice. Everything fully disclaimed.}---

Andy Burns <usenet@andyburns.uk>: Oct 18 10:35AM +0100 > Is it normal for LEDs to not turn offimmediately?   do you mean an actual LED, e.g. <https://www.petervis.com/electronics/led/led/led-pinout.gif>   in which case no.   Or a mains lamp that uses LED, e.g. <https://cdn.aws.toolstation.com/images/141020-UK/800/70757.jpg>   in which case, it's quite normal for many types to "fade" away as the internal power supply runs down after it's switched off.

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Oct 18 04:24AM -0700 Andy Burns wrote:   ----------------- > <https://cdn.aws.toolstation.com/images/141020-UK/800/70757.jpg>   > in which case, it's quite normal for many types to "fade" away as the > internal power supply runs down after it's switched off.   ** Correct.   And just to rub the point in, the yellow phosphor that turns the blue LED light into white has no persistence - unlike the phosphors use in fluoro tubes and scope CRTs or TV picture tubes.       .... Phil

Arlen _G_ Holder <_arlen.george@halder.edu>: Oct 18 04:17AM On Sun, 13 Oct 2019 08:18:54 -0400, nospam wrote:   > ios devices have always showed up as a standard digital camera when > connected to a computer, no additional software needed.   Bear in mind, nospam conveniently forgot (or is ignorant of) a few things.   We're talking read and write to and from the iOS device from anything else (anything that plugs into USB will work just fine that's data)   It's clear nospam is either igorant of that fact or ignoring it. o But read and write is a critical fact indeed.   Similarly, nospam is either ignorant or ignoring another fact o We're talking the _entire_ visible file system on the iOS device   Read and write.   So be careful about what nospam wrote o Either he's supremely ignorant of these facts or he's ignoring them.   But they're still facts o Very important facts in fact.   -- Read and write to and from iOS device, for free; if you know how.

Arlen _G_ Holder <_arlen.george@halder.edu>: Oct 18 04:27AM On Mon, 14 Oct 2019 01:59:38 +0000 (UTC), Spamblk wrote:   > $ ifuse /media/iPhone --root   > This mounts the root filesystem of the first attached device on > this computer in the directory /media/iPhone.   Exactly. I've been writing tutorials on how to do this, for free, for years.   o Simultaneously slide Windows Linux iOS Android files back and forth over USB at 7GB per minute speeds using 100% native devices (no proprietary software needed) <https://groups.google.com/d/msg/alt.os.linux/WqIDiVbawRs/pwxzu7LMCAAJ>   o How to read/write access iOS file systems on Ubuntu/Windows over USB cable <https://groups.google.com/d/msg/alt.os.linux/z_KXY4IHLe0/OaFqueaaCAAJ>   o How to easily archive your iOS device and/or how to use your iOS device as a free USB stick (read & write)? <https://groups.google.com/d/msg/misc.phone.mobile.iphone/5hE4byjF930/NLdxBd8NCwAJ>   o What's a good way to offload storage on an iPad directly to a 64GB USB flash drive? <https://groups.google.com/d/msg/misc.phone.mobile.iphone/7OrCvaZxpGs/BU9cXgaNAQAJ>   o Easily turn an iOS device into a read/write USB stick - for free - in a few minutes <https://groups.google.com/d/msg/misc.phone.mobile.iphone/GkGHMGnvKkY/IzmteZ1JCwAJ>   o Why doesn't Apple just let you manage your iOS file system natively on Windows? <https://groups.google.com/d/msg/misc.phone.mobile.iphone/WjeGznahZwc/O9Ob5F87EQAJ>   o How to read/write access iOS file systems on Ubuntu/Windows over USB cable <https://groups.google.com/d/msg/misc.phone.mobile.iphone/IFC52JXBQ1c/siiB7o49CgAJ>   o How to transfer iPad photos/videos to/from Linux/Windows over Wi-Fi LAN? <https://groups.google.com/d/msg/misc.phone.mobile.iphone/YtpKpDhWm_s/1z7AO3jQCAAJ>   o Easiest way to move saved data from iPad mini to the Costco $300 128GB iPad 9.7" device? <https://groups.google.com/d/msg/misc.phone.mobile.iphone/Wq-dZKnXO3A/wL8LfzKPAgAJ>   o How to work around the new Apple iOS7 infinite loop of mistrust bug on Linux? <https://groups.google.com/d/msg/alt.os.linux/_e0czhOYSHo/WT_gxkGBD9cJ> etc.   -- Bringing valuable detailed functionality to Usenet users; 1 tutorial at a time.

Arlen _G_ Holder <_arlen.george@halder.edu>: Oct 18 04:27AM On Sun, 13 Oct 2019 20:21:57 +1300, geoff wrote:   > Apple, crippling things ? Naaa - not possible.   Apple is (figuratively) drunk on (secretly) reducing functionality o After the product ships   FACTS: o Do any Android phone manufacturers throttle (CPUs, PD Charging, Modems) like Apple consistently does? <https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/misc.phone.mobile.iphone/ZTmmGoAndyM>   o Apple is activating secret software inside the iPhone XS, iPhone XS Max and iPhone XR <https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/misc.phone.mobile.iphone/OqOM4rY-oNY>   o Does any Android phone manufacturer pull the hostile battery & display lockout stunts that Apple secretly added to the iPhones recently? <https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/misc.phone.mobile.iphone/aMg1dK2A_DY>

KenW <ken1943@invalid.net>: Oct 17 02:15PM -0600 >the neutral lower. About a month ago one of my trees took out the >neutral before my drop. Nevertheless I still had power. What gives? >Eric Ground in the house.

sound.service@btconnect.com: Oct 17 12:44PM -0700 > a tube tester without help. > Thanks, > Eric   I built my own from a kit. It works very well, and can supply up to 400v Anode voltage.   Not quite full guitar amp voltage, but probably a whole lot better than most of the vintage testers, which may be well out of spec or just plain broken by now.   It will even superimpose multiple plots on the same graph, so you can see how evenly matched a quad of output valves are, or aren't.     https://www.dos4ever.com/uTracer3/uTracer3_pag1.html

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