- Help me to identify a transformer. - 2 Updates
- Does this device exist? - 7 Updates
| Bo-Lennart <bo-lennart.karlsson@telia.com>: Oct 03 04:31AM -0700 Den fredag 27 september 2019 kl. 19:48:15 UTC+2 skrev Bo-Lennart: > Many thanks in advance > Bo-Lennart Karlsson > Falun, SWEDEN Hi again.... Thank You for all Your suggestion about my transformer. I would also like to thank You very much for the time You have spend for helping me to identify my transformer. You had som question to me, and the answer is: - The inductor-value between 7 and 8 should be in mH (not H) 3,08 mH - The weight is 2,3 Kg (5 lb) - Size is: height is 10cm (4 "), base: 8,5 x 9 cm. I first tried out the transformer as a power transformer like this: I feed power from a VARIAC to pin 4 and 6. It end up to 230V and the current stay as low as 13 mArms. - Output at pin 7-8 gave 4,88 V - All other windings gave 3,66 V OK, then I tested it as a power output tansformer. I input: 1 kHz at 1,0 Vrms (+ 2,3 dB)to pin pin 7 - 8. That gave me these level at the diffrent pins /windings: - 5 - 4 = 15,43 V ( +26 dB) - 5 - 6 = 15,37 V ( +26 dB) - 2A - 12 = 0,69 V ( -1 dB) - 2A - 9 = 0,69 V ( -1 dB) - 3A - 11 = 0,69 V ( -1 dB) - 1A - 10 = 0,69 V ( -1 dB) So, finally, I think that this transformer is a TUBE OUTPUT TRANSFORMER. So now I will start to build me a tube-amplifier for my electric-guitar (it's a FENDER guitar). And PHIL, thanks for Your comment about my age. I know that 70 is just a number. It's how You feel that will tell if You are young or old. Best regards from SWEDEN Bo-Lennart Karlsson Falun, SWEDEN |
| Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Oct 03 05:37AM -0700 Bo-Lennart wrote: ------------------ > It end up to 230V and the current stay as low as 13 mArms. > - Output at pin 7-8 gave 4,88 V > - All other windings gave 3,66 V -------------------------- ** That adds up to a 40 watt rated output transformer, with about 4000 to 5000 ohms CT primary. Try 400 to 450VDC B+ supply and a pair of 6L6GCs, 5881s or EL34s. KT66s would also be a good option. Load impedances from 4 to 16 ohms seem possible. Have fun. .... Phil |
| three_jeeps <jjhudak@gmail.com>: Oct 02 10:10AM -0700 > Sheesh! He is not gonna run a new wire. I already said that. It is not > an easy task. Power would need to come down from the attic. > Eric Don't ya just love people who change the invariants of a problem to 'solve' it? Is there a reason that the hot water heater+tank needs to be under the sink? Would it be possible to mount the heater under the floor under the sink and run a pipe up to the sink? Might allow wiring in a space that is more accessible. |
| Rob <nomail@example.com>: Oct 02 07:35PM > product would be better. > Thanks, > Eric They are available here in the Netherlands, and are/were commonly used to connect a washer and a dryer to a single circuit. These boxes cover the same situation, where a washing machine consumes a lot of power during the phase where it heats the water and could trip the breaker when a dryer which also uses a lot of power is used at the same time. I don't know if they are available for the same purpose in the USA. And also I don't think they would still work so well as it did in the past, where such household equipment would still have an electromechanical controller and could reliably be paused by just cutting the line current. Todays machines with a microprocessor maybe would not handle this so well. But in your use case (with a close-in heater) that should not be an issue. |
| Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Oct 02 04:22PM -0400 In article <slrnqp9v0n.6fm.nomail@xs9.xs4all.nl>, nomail@example.com says... > a lot of power during the phase where it heats the water and could trip > the breaker when a dryer which also uses a lot of power is used at the > same time. Interisting. I guess where you are at the circuit is around 240 volts for everything. Here in the states most washers use 120 volts and the dryers are on the 240 volt circuit. That way they can be ran at the same time as the wires go back to the breaker box. I don't know how others do it,but many days my wife will wash 2 or 3 loads of cloths. She will be drying the first load while the 2nd one is washing to save time. |
| tabbypurr@gmail.com: Oct 02 03:04PM -0700 > Just stupid. Something you continue not to understand. And the advice you give continues to suffer for it. > Peter Wieck > Melrose Park, PA of no relevance to us here in the UK. |
| tabbypurr@gmail.com: Oct 02 03:06PM -0700 On Wednesday, 2 October 2019 13:47:23 UTC+1, Wolfgang Allinger wrote: > Contactors exist for AC and DC coils, maybe they work. You need one with > contact type NC i.e. closed for feeding the heater when no current is > drawn from the dishwasher. These NC types are not common too. Relays with ac coils are common. Some are called contactors. And relays/contactors with 2 way contacts are also common. NT |
| tabbypurr@gmail.com: Oct 02 03:10PM -0700 On Wednesday, 2 October 2019 21:22:21 UTC+1, Ralph Mowery wrote: > I don't know how others do it,but many days my wife will wash 2 or 3 > loads of cloths. She will be drying the first load while the 2nd one is > washing to save time. If it really is just the drier that's the problem, there are better ways to dry things anyway, eg fan & dehumidifier. NT |
| Andy Burns <usenet@andyburns.uk>: Oct 03 08:49AM +0100 > Relays with ac coils are common. Some are called contactors. And relays/contactors with 2 way contacts are also common. And combinations of current driven relays and contactors are sold to give priority or non-priority (first come keeps supply) access to limited power supply, e.g. showers or EV charging <https://youtu.be/mCeP-rNQTQU> Or for a more "interesting" presentation style ... <https://youtu.be/N_jTZbpUfTc> |
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