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MouseUser <MouseUser@MouseUser.com>: Oct 12 05:57PM -0700 My favorite mouse is acting up. Buttons double-click on a single-click and sometimes do not click at all.   I tried repeatedly tapping to try to clean but does not last.   Unfortunately this mouse is no longer available anywhere (at least at a reasonable price).   Love it because of its size and it is USB (no batteries !).   Is it possible to do my own refurbishment ? Suggestions ? Links please !   Microsoft Notebook Optical Mouse 3000   Thanks !

"J. P. Gilliver (John)" <G6JPG@255soft.uk>: Oct 13 02:19AM +0100 In message <qntsqq$1ihk$1@adenine.netfront.net>, MouseUser   >Is it possible to do my own refurbishment ? >Suggestions ? >Links please ! [] My first thought was faulty microswitches. But it seems unlikely they've both failed at once - or is that not the case, did one fail (or become unreliable) before the other? If both at once, then it might not be the switches. I'd suspect the chip in that case, which is probably unidentifiable (and unobtainable if it is) - though it'd be worth looking for broken tracks on the PCB.   Does it "feel" wrong - do the "buttons" make a proper click?   Replacing the microswitches shouldn't be that difficult for anyone capable of reasonably fine soldering, if that _is_ the cause. What is likely to be more difficult is (a) getting the mouse apart enough to get at them, then (b) finding ones similar enough to substitute.   If it's a three-button mouse, the middle one (assuming it's not mechanically different!) might be a source for one, as it tends to be used less. Other scrap mice might be another source. Failing those, you should be able to find a fair selection of microswitches in most of the electronic component retailer's online "catalogues" - RS Components, Farnell, Newark, CSC, Digiguide (these may or may not be still in business - I've been out of electronics for a couple of years) - once you've got one in your hand to look at (and measure). The better distributors will have mechanical drawings near their listings; if not, they should at least tell you the manufacturer's name and part number of the ones they sell, and you should find such drawings at the manufacturers' websites. You'll also need to know if they're press-to-make or press-to-break; I'd assume the former, but check with a continuity beeper once you've unsoldered. (Unless you can make out the part number on them.)   It _may_ be possible to dismantle and repair the switches themselves, but I'd not like to try. -- J. P. Gilliver. UMRA: 1960/<1985 MB++G()AL-IS-Ch++(p)Ar@T+H+Sh0!:`)DNAf   "Bother," said the Borg, "we assimilated a Pooh."

Rene Lamontagne <rlamont@shaw.ca>: Oct 12 08:48PM -0500 On 2019-10-12 8:19 p.m., J. P. Gilliver (John) wrote: > part number on them.)   > It _may_ be possible to dismantle and repair the switches themselves, > but I'd not like to try.   Not sure where you live, but I find it on Amazon.com for about $11.00. Much easier then trying to repair one. Also there are literally hundreds of different ones to choose from, Surely you can find a suitable lookalike replacement.   Rene     Rene

Rene Lamontagne <rlamont@shaw.ca>: Oct 12 08:59PM -0500 On 2019-10-12 8:48 p.m., Rene Lamontagne wrote:   > Rene   > Rene   I should mention also that battery life is really not an issue anymore, I have a Logitech M510 that goes a year on batteries, My new Logitech M705 is advertized to go 3 years on a pair of alkaline AA cells.   Rene

"David E. Ross" <nobody@nowhere.invalid>: Oct 12 07:02PM -0700 On 10/12/2019 5:57 PM, MouseUser wrote: > Links please !   > Microsoft Notebook Optical Mouse 3000   > Thanks !   The Logitech M100 mouse is still available for $9.99 plus tax and shipping. It is a corded mouse with a USB connector.   I found this to be quite durable. I bought mine 5 years ago and it still works well. My wife has a similar Logitech mouse that is even older.   See <https://www.logitech.com/en-us/product/mouse-m100?crid=7>.   -- David E. Ross <http://www.rossde.com/>   Immigration authorities arrested 680 undocumented aliens in meat processing facilities in Mississippi. Employing someone who is not legally in the U.S. is also illegal. How many of the EMPLOYERS are being criminally charged? If none, why not?

Paul in Houston TX <Paul@Houston.Texas>: Oct 12 09:03PM -0500 MouseUser wrote: > Links please !   > Microsoft Notebook Optical Mouse 3000   > Thanks !   It's easy to refurbish mice. I refurb all my mice when they go bad because I like the ones I have. Take it completely apart, clean the optics, remove the micro switches, and solder in new ones. The tails break conductors near where they go into the mouse so cut off the tail about 1" near the entry point on the mouse and re-solder to the internal plug. Use heat shrink on the solder joints. If the plastic tabs that push the micro switches are worn down then use your soldering iron to add more of the same type of plastic. It will be an ABS mix. Should take no more than 20 minutes.

Big Al <Big_Al@invalid.com>: Oct 12 10:52PM -0400 On 10/12/19 9:59 PM, Rene Lamontagne wrote: > I have a Logitech M510 that goes a year on batteries, My new Logitech > M705 is advertized to go 3 years on a pair of alkaline AA cells.   > Rene   I have a logitech M330 and like it so much, had it for quite a while. It also like Rene's says 2 years on battery, but I don't get more than a few months on it. Still mine is a single battery and that consumes less batteries.   My wife's Kindle doesn't last the time Amazon says it will, but then she reads 6 hours a day not the little time they say is typical. I'd say mice batteries are the same, it depends how much you use it. Mine goes to sleep when not used to save battery but if it's used 12 hours a day, that's a lot of drain.   Al

tubeguy@myshop.com: Oct 12 08:41PM -0500 >> suggestions?   >How about just reconing it, it's not difficult. > Mikek   Its an old 8 inch speaker that I got in a box of electronic odds n ends at an auction. It probably came from an old consel stereo. The tears are from being abused during handling, not a dried up cone. Its the old black paper. I was going to remove the fairly large magnet and toss the rest of it. But I connected it to a radio and even with the torn cone it had good sound. So I decided to repair it.   Due to availability of glues, I used Elmers rubber cement with toilet paper strips. It's solid now, and has good sound. Ill probably hang it on the wall above my bench for a test speaker. It sounds much better than the 4 inch table radio spkr that I have been using.

Jeff Urban <jurb6006@gmail.com>: Oct 12 07:36PM -0700 >How about just reconing it, it's not difficult.   It is a mater of getting the cone. And the voice coil has to match. Either that or you got a hell of alot more work to do.

tubeguy@myshop.com: Oct 12 08:41PM -0500 On Fri, 11 Oct 2019 18:14:11 -0500, Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net> wrote:     >Use a DVM set on the DC 1 mA range across the meter. >If you read nothing, then something else is dead/broken inside the >radio.   I did what you said. I do get a reading on the DVM. So the meter on the radio is blown. Ebay has lots of them for $10 or less. So I'll replace it. Aside from this meter and one bad segment on the channel selector, the radio receives and transmits well. Now, if only I could find someone on the CB to talk to....... This radio also has the weather band, so that will come in handy in my car. I always like to keep track of the weather, and I dont use a smartphone. My old flip phone is all I'll ever need.   By the way, this Cobra 29 was made in 1995, so its one of their "newer" radios.   Aside from the fact that hardly no one uses the CB anymore, I was at a truck stop last week, near a big city. I was surprised to see how much CB gear is still being sold there. Apparently the big cities still have CB traffic. Probably mostly truckers. But it sure aint what it was in the 70s.

etpm@whidbey.com: Oct 12 10:35AM -0700 On Fri, 11 Oct 2019 18:10:53 -0700, John Robertson <spam@flippers.com> wrote:     >Oh, and get a scope at the same time. And a signal generator. And a cap >tester...   >John :-#)# I already have a Tek 465B and a BK 4MHz function generator. No cap tester yet. Eric

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Oct 12 11:16AM -0700 > I already have a Tek 465B and a BK 4MHz function generator. No cap > tester yet. > Eric   If you can find an old EICO or Heathkit component tester (Resistors/Caps/Inductors - using a Wheatstone Bridge) with the "Magic Eye". They are great for reforming caps (they go up to 600V if I am not mistaken) and the Magic Eye is a nice touch.   John :-#)#       -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3 (604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Oct 12 02:30PM -0400 In article <lk34qe177u69vhgu23agpvstqavmkc704p@4ax.com>, etpm@whidbey.com says...   > >John :-#)# > I already have a Tek 465B and a BK 4MHz function generator. No cap > tester yet.   You may want to look into getting one of the roughly $ 20 component testers from China. They do a good job of testing many solid state devices, inductors, capacitors and resistors. Plenty of them on ebay.

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Oct 12 12:45PM -0700 On Saturday, 12 October 2019 19:30:38 UTC+1, Ralph Mowery wrote:   > You may want to look into getting one of the roughly $ 20 component > testers from China. They do a good job of testing many solid state > devices, inductors, capacitors and resistors. Plenty of them on ebay.   Very handy little things. No reforming function as yet. You never know it might appear one day, but I'm not optimistic. And the one I have can't do in-circuit testing, nor C versus V info. But it does give C, ESR & loss with a single button press.     NT

John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Oct 12 05:19PM -0700 > > testers from China. They do a good job of testing many solid state > > devices, inductors, capacitors and resistors. Plenty of them on ebay.   > Very handy little things. No reforming function as yet.     Won't be easy to reform caps without a wee bit more voltage than a 9V battery can supply. Besides, if a cap needs reforming, it's best to not use it.     You never know it might appear one day, but I'm not optimistic. And the one I have can't do in-circuit testing, nor C versus V info. But it does give C, ESR & loss with a single button press.   I bought one because I couldn't resist it for the price, but I find it wildly inaccurate for low value resistance and low value capacitors. I found a calibration procedure on-line that uses a small value cap for a reference, but it only made it worse.   Does identify terminals in transistors accurately though.

etpm@whidbey.com: Oct 12 03:19PM -0700 I couldn't resist and took a peek into my Dumont model 241 scope. The quality of the workmanship is top notch. There are lots of components that I am going to need to check out. Nothing looks like it ever got very hot so I'm hoping the resistor colors haven't changed much. There are many flat rectangular devices that I think are mica caps but I'm gonna need some guidance identifying just what is what. While I'm waiting for the caps and the inductor for the DeVRY scope I'll need to start making a list of caps for the Dumont. There are the ubiquitous paper caps and of course the round can electrolytics. But there are also some large rectangular cans that I suspect are also electrolytic caps. You know, this is kind of fun. Reading about tube circuits and how they work and then identifying the components inside something. The power transformer is HUGE. The scope only draws 3 amps at 115 volts so I am wondering if the size is because of the high voltage needed by the CRT. There is also a really big choke mounted above the power xmfr. Looking in the bottom I see that the large rectangular cans are indeed electrolytic caps. They are being used as filters. There is a can cap inside the bottom portion that is rated at 3500 VDC. There is also inside the bottom what at first I though was a little incandescent bulb. That didn't make any sense to me because it wouldn't have illuminated anything that could be seen from outside the scope. So then I thought maybe it was a neon bulb or similar. Removing it I can see the elctrodes.They look like a hat that has bee split in half vertically. It must be a neon bulb. But what for? Cheers, Eric

Trevor Wilson <trevor@rageaudio.com.au>: Oct 13 09:51AM +1100 > half vertically. It must be a neon bulb. But what for? > Cheers, > Eric   **It's a kind of vacuum tube zener.   -- Trevor Wilson www.rageaudio.com.au   -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus

Arlen _G_ Holder <_arlen.george@halder.edu>: Oct 12 07:00PM On Sat, 12 Oct 2019 10:12:36 -0700 (PDT), trader_4 wrote:   > Notice that even there, aside from the title, they don't call Wi-Fi > Ethernet. The relevant LAN standards are controlled by the IEEE > under 802.X:   Hi Cindy & Trader, Take a look at this photo of an outside antenna I just snapped for you: <https://i.postimg.cc/SK04C6zL/ubiquiti-bullet-M2-hp.jpg>   Notice things about this setup (which costs what your stuff does): o One end is typical Ethernet (which plugs into anything you've got) o The other end is typical Wi-Fi (which works with whatever you have)   The fact is that this is ten to one hundred times the power you have o At about the same price   You just have to understand this fact o And then you have to have a need for that kind of power   What I find rather illuminating, given Usenet is a public potluck, is when people like trader repeatedly show up to the public potluck, but they always seem to bring absolutely nothing of any value to the table, while at the same time, those people like trader brazenly deny that any of the food that anyone else brought "tastes good" to him.   Meanwhile, the fact is that one end of these devices plugs into anything that each of us has at home that naturally takes the RJ45 plug (whether or not trader accepts that it's called "Ethernet" colloquially when we do that).   Despite trader always trying to dispute even the most obvious of facts, another basic fact is that the other end of these devices, is an antenna, which has a motherboard attached which transmits at WiFi frequencies and protocols (aka 802.11 a, b, g, n, ac, etc.).   FACT: o These devices can cost about as much as your current equipment costs o These devices are easily more than ten times more powerful though o In general, these devices are a bit larger (not in all cases though)   While there are people like Cindy who don't need this power, there may well be others who can make use of these tools to gain this 10X power differential, at no greater cost than what they paid for the 10X weaker SOHO routers they use today.   Additionally, while there are people like Gavin and Frank who use Cat5 cable to connect to devices, there are cases where that's infeasible, which is when beaming your own signal to the far corners of your property from your "modem" back into the house or to the pool or to the driveway entrance gate, is feasible for some people.   Heck, some of your kids have tree forts, don't they? (I've always lived in rural areas where tree forts were the norm for the neighborhood boys.) Wouldn't it be nice to paint your kids' tree forts with Internet?   Here's a picture of just one of my antennas, this one being only about 15d Bi or so, with a Ubiquiti Bullet of about 27dBm or so attached to it. <https://i.postimg.cc/SK04C6zL/ubiquiti-bullet-M2-hp.jpg>   Since I'm trying to help others pick their equipment, here are current prices, where you can see this costs as little as your typical router: <https://www.ispsupplies.com/Ubiquiti-Bullet-M2HP> <https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-BULLET-M2-HP-Outdoor-802-11-M2HP/dp/B002SYS22E>   Given 600 milliwatts is about 27 decibels, notice you already have about ten times the power of your typical home router BEFORE you add an antenna! <https://www.rapidtables.com/convert/power/mW_to_dBm.html>   You can get ten times ten times the power of your router o When you add an inexpensive antenna to the radio   Bear in mind what I've been trying to get people like trader to understand o One end is Ethernet (which connects to anything you've got that's RJ45) o The other end is WiFi (which connects to anything you've got that's WiFi)   Notice you easily get from 10 times to 100 times (or more) the power... o All at "about the same price" as you're paying now for your equipment   If you know how and if you know what to buy o You can connect almost anything you have now in your home o To almost anywhere else (if you can "see" the other side) o Or, if it's within a few hundred feet, even if you can't see it   This is basic computer, Ethernet, & WiFi stuff.   The datasheet on that $80 bullet transceiver (aka "radio") shows the point that one end is a connection to any desired antenna, while the other end is the same typical Ethernet connection that we all have all over the place: o Atheros MIPS 24KC, 400MHz, 32MB SDRAM, 8MB Flash o Networking Interface 1 X 10/100 BASE-TX (Cat. 5, RJ-45) Ethernet o 2.4GHz, 5GHz, 802.11 b,g,n <https://www.ispsupplies.com/core/media/media.nl?id=944028&c=393682&h=f2a5cdc8f246f497555a>   Despite the fact there are people like trader who don't comprehend even this simple Ethernet & WiFi stuff, the intelligent reader will instantly notice that you can plug one end into your "modem" or into your "router", which itself can be, they say, up to 100 meters away without a repeater: <https://www.techwalla.com/articles/how-long-can-i-run-a-cat-5-cable> But where, in practice, you generally mount that antenna outside much closer than that because it beams the WiFi signal for miles anyway.   In summary: o If you need to connectg to devices which can be miles away o At about the same price that you pay now for your home equipment o You can connect to those far away devices if you know how to do it   That's my contribution of value to this particular Usenet potluck thread.

Arlen _G_ Holder <_arlen.george@halder.edu>: Oct 12 08:50PM On Sat, 12 Oct 2019 11:24:32 -0600, rbowman wrote:   > like most government projects it assumed there was some sort of magic > that was going to shuffle bits around. In any case the TCP/IP is way up > the tree.   I think much of the confusion stems from the fact that we're discussing two somewhat similar ways to connect an "antenna" to the back of a desktop.   To further clarify what others have been also clarifying, I snapped this picture, just now, which shows two ways to connect an 'antenna' to the back of a typical desktop computer (aka "Ethernet" & "Wi-Fi"): <https://i.postimg.cc/Gh22Sb2N/desktop.jpg>   In the end analysis, while the costs are the same, the POWER is fantastically different, and yet, the result is your typical "Wi-Fi", which you can verify, for example, using your phone with freely available apps: <https://i.postimg.cc/25v3FT6S/debug-on-android.jpg>   Notice that this desktop has both types of connections: a. There's a typically puny Wi-Fi "device" attached to this desktop b. There's a powerful Wi-Fi "device" attached to the desktop RJ45 port   Both cost about the same in terms of both price & setup (which is minimal). o But only one will be found at a typical consumer-focused box store.   One will get you distances of roughly a few hundred feed (or so). o While the other will garner distances easily of a few miles (or so).   Just to be clear for those who simply want us to explain tools more simply o For the price of what people already seem to pay for their home stuff o They can buy "this stuff" which easily connects to "your stuff" <http://img4.imagetitan.com/img4/yc96C7uYT0bZcOj/18/18_wifi.jpg>   Where "your stuff" includes anything you have in the house that o Connects to what we colloquially refer to as "Ethernet", or, o Connects to what we colloquially refer to as "Wi-Fi".   Where the main drawback of "this stuff" is o It's generally a bit larger (but not always) so you need shelf space o You definitely won't ever find "this stuff" in the normal box stores   So you simply have to KNOW that this kind of power is available to you. o And then you simply need advice on "what stuff" to purchase online   Where, the elegant beauty of "this stuff" is the sheer simplicity of it all o One end of "this stuff" is what we colloquially refer to as "Ethernet" o The other end is what we colloquially refer to as "Wi-Fi".   For example, here is a picture of "this stuff" showing both hose ends: <https://i.postimg.cc/SK04C6zL/ubiquiti-bullet-M2-hp.jpg> And here is another picture of "this stuff" showing both those ends: <https://i.postimg.cc/DfQJq437/mikrotikrouter.jpg> Where this pictures shows some of the many shapes & sizes of "this stuff" <https://i.postimg.cc/YqTk0q1T/ap.jpg>   Notice the key colloquial takeaway to explain the immense power here: o One end attaches to ANYTHING you have that you'd call "Ethernet" o The other end attaches to ANYTHING else that you'd call "Wi-Fi"   -- My contribution to the Usenet potluck is that this power is available to you, should you ever need it, at about the same price you're paying now, for box-store equipment which is ten to one hundred times less powerful.

Arlen _G_ Holder <_arlen.george@halder.edu>: Oct 12 09:16PM On Sat, 12 Oct 2019 13:03:36 -0700 (PDT), trader_4 wrote:   > to cable, DSL, etc. Or it's available from a local WiFi hotspot > that reaches your house. Not that you need a friend somewhere and a > point-to-point relay in between.   Hi trader,   Why do you insist on proving you don't belong on this type of news group?   As usual, you contributed nothing of any value to this Usenet potluck (where the last time you did that, it went sort of like this):   Q: How do you fix a tire at home that I'm having issues trying to fix? A: Duh. You always simply pay someone else to fix everything for you.   Bearing in mind, I don't bullshit, you know this to be a fact: o Did you ever have a batch of tires that just wouldn't seal after the final bead? <https://groups.google.com/d/msg/alt.home.repair/ST-xNgC5pnU/vkePS4r-AgAJ> Where you said, and I repeat, in full, verbatim: "Silly me, I just pay $15 a tire to get them mounted and dynamically balanced. No fuss, no muss..."   Reparing, mounting, and balancing your own tires at home, Trader o Is something that I do all the time - and I love fixing stuff like that.   Yet, the fact is - you despise fixing stuff - and that's OK. o What's not OK are incessantly worthless responses on this fixit group   Notice the dynamic that you always seem to prove, Trader: 1. Someone asks a technical repair question which others help answer 2. Yet you tell them they have to pay someone else to fix it for them   Why are you even on a fixit newsgroup, Trader ... o ... if you can't fix anything?   I consider it a basic American right to be able to fix my own stuff. o While all you do is waste everyone's time, Trader - saying not to.   I didn't challenge you then when you wasted everyone's time, Trader, but all you _ever_ do, is waste everyone's time on this newsgroup. o You don't fix anything o You can't fix anything   But apparently, you NEED someone to challenge you on wasting our time o Because if I don't challenge you - you continue to waste our time   Let's face the facts Trader... o You're better off NOT responding to _any_ thread I proffer   You have absolutely nothing of value to add to ANY technical topic. o And yet, you _insist_ on proving that - time and again.   Stop it. o Please.   Stop wasting our time with your childish games you love to play. o If you can't add any technical value to this thread - then don't post.   To help those who _can_ comprehend what I'm suggesting in this thread o Here is a photo I just took showing the "typical" desktop connections <https://i.postimg.cc/Gh22Sb2N/desktop.jpg>   -- My contribution to the Usenet potluck in this thread is to explain what power is available to the typical home user at the same price they are paying now for far less powerful equipment. If they NEED the power, this is potentially useful technical information, particularly since this equipment is NOT found in the typical consumer oriented hardware or electronic box stores.

Arlen _G_ Holder <_arlen.george@halder.edu>: Oct 12 09:34PM On Sat, 12 Oct 2019 14:02:13 -0700 (PDT), trader_4 wrote:   > how laptops and such have typically had both Ethernet and WiFi > available, one through a wired connector, the other through the air, > eh?   Hi Trader,   Why must you insist on never posting with any purposefully helpful intent? o The less we challenge you - the more are emboldened to waste our time   The last time you tried to play these silly games, was when I had asked a specific technical question on choosing, buying, repairing, mounting, & balancing my own SUV tires at home - where I ignored the fact that then, as now, you had nothing of value to add to the Usenet potluck where we all bring to the table what value we can offer each other.   Remember that? o No?   Well, let me refresh your memory then, OK? o Did you ever have a batch of tires that just wouldn't seal after the final bead? <https://groups.google.com/d/msg/alt.home.repair/ST-xNgC5pnU/agDaRH_JAgAJ>   Do you remember your "added value" then, Trader? o No?   Well then, allow me to refresh your memory, Trader: <https://groups.google.com/d/msg/alt.home.repair/ST-xNgC5pnU/vkePS4r-AgAJ> Where your purposefully & decidedly unhelpful "help" was, verbatim... "Silly me, I just pay $15 a tire to get them mounted and dynamically balanced. No fuss, no muss..."   Notice you added zero purposefully helpful technical value then... o As now...   Where, in that case, don't you think EVERYONE knows that they can simply pay someone else to debug and fix all their technical problems, Trader?   Do you think that your advice was even slightly helpful, Trader? O Really?   Let's get back on to this topic of explaining to the members of this newsgroup that, if they need it, they "can" extend the range of their Wi-Fi connections, at about the same price they're paying now for "their stuff".   They just need to know what this stuff does for them in terms of power... o And how this stuff connects, specifically, to their desktop computers.   In a further attempt at being purposefully helpful, Trader, I just snapped and then carefully annotated this shot of one of my old desktops showing what a typical desktop owner "can do" in terms of connecting to a Wi-Fi access point, when running a Cat5 cable to that connection, is infeasible. <https://i.postimg.cc/Gh22Sb2N/desktop.jpg>   -- My contribution to the Usenet potluck in this thread is to explain what options are available to the typical home user that they might not know are available to them, and, better yet, at about the same price they are paying now for what is very likely to be far less powerful equipment. If they NEED the power described here, then (and only then) this is potentially useful technical information, particularly since this equipment is NOT found in the typical consumer oriented hardware or electronic box stores.

Arlen _G_ Holder <_arlen.george@halder.edu>: Oct 12 09:53PM On Sat, 12 Oct 2019 14:33:16 -0700 (PDT), trader_4 wrote:   > Did I say that was stupid? No, but it sure is. I just pointed out > that most people would not consider what you described to mean that > everyone has access to WiFi at their home.   Hi Trader,   Why am I an "asshole" because you don't understand basic things?   At the risk of asking the obvious, did you even LOOK at this picture? <https://i.postimg.cc/Gh22Sb2N/desktop.jpg>   If you looked at it, at the risk of proffering another obvious question o Do you comprehend that each of those "antennas" can connect to Wi-Fi?   One more super obvious question for you, Trader, just to be clear: o Do you realize that the Wi-Fi connection can be anything they have?   Um ... like their typical Wi-Fi-enabled SOHO router, Trader. o Or, anything that's typical Wi-Fi, Trader.   Let's summarize the basics for you, Trader, shall we? o Any typical Ethernet o Any typical Wi-Fi   Let us know when you comprehend that basic fact. o Because the point is that this power is available to everyone. o At about the same costs as what they paid for what they have now   Only what's better about this setup, Trader, is o It's vastly more powerful than their typical home setup today.   Which, if they need that power... o Is a good thing, is it not?   -- Note that if people don't need this kind of Wi-Fi power, then, of course, this thread isn't for them. It's only for those who can't connect everything via Ethernet - such as their mobile devices at the pool and their desktop computers which might be in far corners of their home.

Grumpy Old White Guy <grumpy@old-white-guy.network>: Oct 12 06:06PM -0400 On 10/12/2019 5:34 PM, Arlen _G_ Holder wrote: > balancing my own SUV tires at home - where I ignored the fact that then, as > now, you had nothing of value to add to the Usenet potluck where we all > bring to the table what value we can offer each other.   He_4 has been kind of cranky ever since President Trump was exonerated.   -- Get off my lawn!

Ed Pawlowski <esp@snet.xxx>: Oct 12 06:20PM -0400 On 10/12/2019 5:16 PM, Arlen _G_ Holder wrote: > (where the last time you did that, it went sort of like this):   > Stop wasting our time with your childish games you love to play. > o If you can't add any technical value to this thread - then don't post.   If the best you can do is make a long post just to denigrate another it is you wasting everyone else's time. Your mother would be ashamed of you and your values.

Arlen _G_ Holder <_arlen.george@halder.edu>: Oct 12 10:43PM On Sat, 12 Oct 2019 18:20:40 -0400, Ed Pawlowski wrote:   > If the best you can do is make a long post just to denigrate another it > is you wasting everyone else's time. Your mother would be ashamed of > you and your values.   OK. I'll ignore Trader_4 for the remainder of this thread... o Starting now.   Besides, I think I've almost fully shot my wad on this topic unless... o Unless one of the recipients wants to try it themselves.   They might have questions since you have to know what to buy o And you have to know how to set it up   Which depends on what you're doing with it.   For example, if you're simply "painting the pool" o So that the kids can be on their phone far from the house   The software switches will be different than if you're connecting to an AP.   Rest assured, this equipment can do anything you typically want to do o Where the switches inside the router software make it what it is.   In summary, I haven't covered the software because it would only matter if someone needs help setting theirs up - otherwise - all that really matters is two things: o The distances people volunteered are real - and very possible o If you simply purchase this equipment - instead of the 'consumer' stuff   The good news is that it costs just about the same as consumer stuff o But the bad news is that it's usually (not always) a bit larger stuff   -- Sharing purposefully helpful ideas on Usenet; one idea at a time.

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