sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Google Groups

Char Jackson <none@none.invalid>: Oct 12 10:02PM -0500 On Sat, 12 Oct 2019 20:59:49 -0500, Rene Lamontagne <rlamont@shaw.ca> wrote:   >I should mention also that battery life is really not an issue anymore, >I have a Logitech M510 that goes a year on batteries, My new Logitech >M705 is advertized to go 3 years on a pair of alkaline AA cells.   +1   I've been using M705's with multiple PCs since 2013 and love them. I get more than two years on a set of AAs, but who knows how fresh the cells were to begin with.   One thing about the M705 is that it can run on a single battery if you're willing to trade longer battery life for less weight. I don't mind the weight, so I use two cells. Also, there's an LED on top of the mouse that normally lights up green, but changes to red when the batteries are weak. Lastly, I love the mechanical switch that disables the wheel detent, making it easy to scroll up/down at high speed.   --   Char Jackson

MouseUser <MouseUser@MouseUser.com>: Oct 12 05:57PM -0700 My favorite mouse is acting up. Buttons double-click on a single-click and sometimes do not click at all.   I tried repeatedly tapping to try to clean but does not last.   Unfortunately this mouse is no longer available anywhere (at least at a reasonable price).   Love it because of its size and it is USB (no batteries !).   Is it possible to do my own refurbishment ? Suggestions ? Links please !   Microsoft Notebook Optical Mouse 3000   Thanks !

Arlen _G_ Holder <_arlen.george@halder.edu>: Oct 13 04:24AM On Sun, 13 Oct 2019 02:19:33 +0100, J. P. Gilliver (John) wrote:   > It _may_ be possible to dismantle and repair the switches themselves, > but I'd not like to try.   Usenet is a community potluck where everyone chips in where they can.   I didn't read all the details in the thread, where my value add is that o I can simply vouch for fixing mice by taking them apart (carefully).   My suggestion to the OP is to take the mouse apart, like I did here: <https://i.postimg.cc/v83WFn2v/mouse01.jpg>   And then clean everything up and look for something broken: <https://i.postimg.cc/5tr2SxsL/mouse02.jpg>   If nothing else, it's useful to see how the thing works inside.

Paul in Houston TX <Paul@Houston.Texas>: Oct 12 09:03PM -0500 MouseUser wrote: > Links please !   > Microsoft Notebook Optical Mouse 3000   > Thanks !   It's easy to refurbish mice. I refurb all my mice when they go bad because I like the ones I have. Take it completely apart, clean the optics, remove the micro switches, and solder in new ones. The tails break conductors near where they go into the mouse so cut off the tail about 1" near the entry point on the mouse and re-solder to the internal plug. Use heat shrink on the solder joints. If the plastic tabs that push the micro switches are worn down then use your soldering iron to add more of the same type of plastic. It will be an ABS mix. Should take no more than 20 minutes.

Patrick <Patrick@invalid.invalid>: Oct 13 08:55AM +0100 On 13/10/2019 01:57, MouseUser wrote: > Links please !   > Microsoft Notebook Optical Mouse 3000   > Thanks !   Two of the screws holding it together are hidden under the 'feet' as shown here; http://cordes.blog.fc2.com/blog-entry-299.html

Patrick <Patrick@invalid.invalid>: Oct 13 08:57AM +0100 On 13/10/2019 08:55, Patrick wrote:   > Two of the screws holding it together are hidden under the 'feet' as > shown here; > http://cordes.blog.fc2.com/blog-entry-299.html   And another screw is hidden under the label !!

"SC Tom" <sc@tom.net>: Oct 13 07:54AM -0400 "Char Jackson" <none@none.invalid> wrote in message news:pb45qe9fh8jvcrhdt9caqmuum8sg9dig11@4ax.com... > Lastly, I love the mechanical switch that disables the wheel detent, > making > it easy to scroll up/down at high speed.   I'm on my 2nd M705- the first one (after 3-1/2 years) was having the same mechanical problems as the OP's mouse. My newer one is 2+ years old and so far is everything it's advertised to be. I use rechargeable batteries in it, and they last about 14-16 months. Since I have a number of these batteries around (I also use them in my various remotes), I always have at least 2 that are charged up and ready to go.   I would definitely recommend the M705 to my friends :-) --   SC Tom

Michael Terrell <terrell.michael.a@gmail.com>: Oct 13 05:33AM -0700 On Saturday, October 12, 2019 at 8:58:06 PM UTC-4, MouseUser wrote: > Suggestions ? > Links please !   > Microsoft Notebook Optical Mouse 3000   These Omron switches are used in a lot of mice. I go through a set about twice a year, from writing a lot of HTML by hand. I use the Logitech M310 most of the time, but I do use other mice. I bought 50 switches, the last time. :)   https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=OMRON+D2FC-F-7N-10m&_sacat=181854

Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Oct 13 08:22AM -0500 On Saturday, October 12, 2019 at 8:58:06 PM UTC-4, MouseUser wrote:> My favorite mouse is acting up.> Buttons double-click on a single-click and sometimes do not click at all. I don't waste my time fixing mice. I have a 5 gallon bucket of mice I've picked up at the local thrift stores from $0.25 to $1.99 each. With and without scroll wheels. Wired and wireless with the transceivers. Even track balls. (My preferred mouse.) USB and P/S2 as well, even a few serial mice. *laughs* I even have a Logitech "Bus Mouse" with an ISA card. If a mouse quits working or starts to get erratic, into the trash it goes. Same goes for keyboards.   -- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com

Ken Blake <Ken@invalid.news.com>: Oct 13 09:07AM -0700 On Sat, 12 Oct 2019 20:59:49 -0500, Rene Lamontagne <rlamont@shaw.ca> wrote:     >I should mention also that battery life is really not an issue anymore, >I have a Logitech M510 that goes a year on batteries, My new Logitech >M705 is advertized to go 3 years on a pair of alkaline AA cells.       The mouse I use and like very much is the Anker 2.4G Wireless Vertical Ergonomic Optical Mouse ($19.99 from Amazon). It's my first wireless mouse. I've had it for about four months, and I just had to replace its batteries.   It's very different from the common horizontal mice; it's much more comfortable.

Ken Blake <Ken@invalid.news.com>: Oct 13 09:12AM -0700 On Sat, 12 Oct 2019 21:03:20 -0500, Paul in Houston TX >joints. If the plastic tabs that push the micro switches are worn down >then use your soldering iron to add more of the same type of plastic. >It will be an ABS mix. Should take no more than 20 minutes.     Each to his own. Mice are very cheap these days. I wouldn't dream of spending 20 minutes, the cost of new microswitches, soldering iron, and solder to save $20 or so for a new mouse.

BillyBob <billybob@noemail.net>: Oct 13 09:48AM -0400 > has at least one bad digit on their LED readout. This one does also. > Cobra made darn good radios, but did they use bad readout boards or > what?   My Cobra has been sitting on the shelf unused for 19 years. Every so often, I energize it and check output and frequency to make sure it is still working and in spec. It is an original 148 GTL made in the Philippines, not the newer crap out of China. There is a difference because I picked up a Chinese made one at a yard sale within the last seven years and it was a very poor performer compared to the originals. Anyway, at some point, I have had to replace the LED on almost every radio I've ever owned but I eventually got smarter and began adding a resistor to dim the display if there wasn't already a bright dim switch present. Made a big difference to keep the LED's dimmed if for no other reason than to extend life. After several replacements and a learning curve, I always ran them on dim after that.

Arlen _G_ Holder <_arlen.george@halder.edu>: Oct 13 04:41AM FYI ...   Since, with freeware, you can instantly turn any iOS mobile phone or iPad into a read/write USB stick ... suitable for copying photos taken on that iOS device (or for copying feature-length movies over USB to that iOS device, for example), please see JF Mezei thread posted today for details.   o IOS 13 support for USB devices <https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/misc.phone.mobile.iphone/kiBd5O6_O1w>

geoff <geoff@nospamgeoffwood.org>: Oct 13 08:21PM +1300 On 13/10/2019 5:41 pm, Arlen _G_ Holder wrote: > device, for example), please see JF Mezei thread posted today for details.   > o IOS 13 support for USB devices > <https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/misc.phone.mobile.iphone/kiBd5O6_O1w>   Um, isn't that always in effect whatever any digital camera does anyway ? Or did the Lightning connect thing somehow cripple IOS wrt read/writability of pix from external devices ?   Apple, crippling things ? Naaa - not possible.   geoff

nospam <nospam@nospam.invalid>: Oct 13 08:18AM -0400 In article <mtCdnUDmTfAETT_AnZ2dnUU7-b_NnZ2d@giganews.com>, geoff   > Um, isn't that always in effect whatever any digital camera does anyway > ? Or did the Lightning connect thing somehow cripple IOS wrt > read/writability of pix from external devices ?   ios devices have always showed up as a standard digital camera when connected to a computer, no additional software needed.   > Apple, crippling things ? Naaa - not possible.   they do not. quite the opposite. they make things easier, one reason why their products are so popular.   copying photos from an iphone to a computer doesn't need a lightning cable.

jaugustine@verizon.net: Oct 13 06:54AM Hi,   I am willing to pay for a schematic for Uniden Bearcat BC855XLT Scanner.   I was unable to find a source via google.   Thank You in advance, John

Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Oct 13 01:52AM -0500 > Apparently the big cities still have CB traffic. Probably > mostly truckers. But it sure ain't what it was in the 70s.   Thank God.       -- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com

tubeguy@myshop.com: Oct 12 08:41PM -0500 On Fri, 11 Oct 2019 18:14:11 -0500, Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net> wrote:     >Use a DVM set on the DC 1 mA range across the meter. >If you read nothing, then something else is dead/broken inside the >radio.   I did what you said. I do get a reading on the DVM. So the meter on the radio is blown. Ebay has lots of them for $10 or less. So I'll replace it. Aside from this meter and one bad segment on the channel selector, the radio receives and transmits well. Now, if only I could find someone on the CB to talk to....... This radio also has the weather band, so that will come in handy in my car. I always like to keep track of the weather, and I dont use a smartphone. My old flip phone is all I'll ever need.   By the way, this Cobra 29 was made in 1995, so its one of their "newer" radios.   Aside from the fact that hardly no one uses the CB anymore, I was at a truck stop last week, near a big city. I was surprised to see how much CB gear is still being sold there. Apparently the big cities still have CB traffic. Probably mostly truckers. But it sure aint what it was in the 70s.

tubeguy@myshop.com: Oct 12 08:41PM -0500 >> suggestions?   >How about just reconing it, it's not difficult. > Mikek   Its an old 8 inch speaker that I got in a box of electronic odds n ends at an auction. It probably came from an old consel stereo. The tears are from being abused during handling, not a dried up cone. Its the old black paper. I was going to remove the fairly large magnet and toss the rest of it. But I connected it to a radio and even with the torn cone it had good sound. So I decided to repair it.   Due to availability of glues, I used Elmers rubber cement with toilet paper strips. It's solid now, and has good sound. Ill probably hang it on the wall above my bench for a test speaker. It sounds much better than the 4 inch table radio spkr that I have been using.

Arlen _G_ Holder <_arlen.george@halder.edu>: Oct 13 03:34AM On Sat, 12 Oct 2019 18:06:20 -0400, Grumpy Old White Guy wrote:   > He_4 has been kind of cranky ever since President Trump was exonerated.   Hi Grumpy Old White Guy,   I've been on Usenet for as long as anyone here. o Where I delve into facts as deeply as anyone else does   Hence, I've posted so many helpful tutorials that I long ago lost count of how many, and while I've posted so many questions and have received so many helpful responses that I've lost count ....   Never once have I delved into politics on this newsgroup.   -- I can delve deeply into politics; but this isn't the place for it.

Arlen _G_ Holder <_arlen.george@halder.edu>: Oct 13 05:13AM On Sun, 13 Oct 2019 04:22:51 -0000 (UTC), Lewis wrote:     > This is true, but generally the change from Ethernet to radio and back is > seamless to the user (like in WiFi), and nearly never of any importance > to anyone at all.   Thanks Lewis for helping to clarify, for Lucifer, what's possible, since Lucifer, like nospam, seems to brazenly & repeatedly deny what the rest of us know works just fine, even down to denying that decibels are used to indicate power (where Lucifer & nospam appear to be twins in their ability to brazenly deny what everyone else already knows to be facts).   To further illustrate switching from Ethernet to Wi-Fi & vice versa, this picture graphically shows the mechanical components inherent in this common and constant switcheroo between Ethernet & Wi-Fi & back: <https://i.postimg.cc/SK04C6zL/ubiquiti-bullet-M2-hp.jpg>   This home-built $50 WiFi-to-Ethernet-and-Ethernet-to-Wifi setup also works: <https://i.postimg.cc/DfQJq437/mikrotikrouter.jpg>   Using the term "modem" for my "transceiver" so people with cable can better understand, the Internet signal goes from the "modem" inside the house, to the SOHO router next to the "modem", and then out an RJ45 port on the SOHO router to this radio & antenna which is outside the house, which either points back at the house, to "paint" the inaccessible regions of the house or ...   Or ...   You'll notice the antenna is on a loose swivel, which allows me to turn it around to paint the pool, which is a few hundred feet from the house, where painting the pool allows cellphones to connect to this AP, where the pool is too far from the house for cellphones to connect to the SOHO router WiFi connected to the "modem" inside the house.   In quite a different setup, this similar setup allows a desktop, say one that is outside, say, in the barn which is too far from the house, to easily connect back to the WiFi at the house, or, if desired, to a WiFi access point which can be miles away from this stand-alone desktop PC: <https://i.postimg.cc/Gh22Sb2N/desktop.jpg>   And still get great signal strength of around -55dBm of power: <https://i.postimg.cc/DZccY2YD/decibels.jpg>   In fact, there are so many things you can do with these inexpensive radios, that I have them scattered all over, since I have plenty of them to play with to connect anything I want to connect to, if it has Internet and if I know the security setup keys: <https://i.postimg.cc/XJChDCPr/spare-access-points.jpg>   What's nice, also, is you get great graphics out of the signal strength debuggers on Android phones, which allow you to ascertain exactly which access points have the best signal strength in whatever spot you're in: <https://i.postimg.cc/BZrZpDyp/debug-apps.jpg>   Given this all "just works", I'm not sure why Lucifer, who claims to have been a "communications technician", says it doesn't work, so I appreciate that Lewis attempted to clarify that the switcheroo between Ethernet and Wi-Fi and from Wi-Fi to Ethernet ... is so simple ... it just works.   -- I take the time to post pictures becuase I care about my credibility.

Grumpy Old White Guy <grumpy@old-white-guy.network>: Oct 12 06:06PM -0400 On 10/12/2019 5:34 PM, Arlen _G_ Holder wrote: > balancing my own SUV tires at home - where I ignored the fact that then, as > now, you had nothing of value to add to the Usenet potluck where we all > bring to the table what value we can offer each other.   He_4 has been kind of cranky ever since President Trump was exonerated.   -- Get off my lawn!

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Oct 13 12:42AM -0700 On Sunday, 13 October 2019 01:19:38 UTC+1, John-Del wrote: > > > devices, inductors, capacitors and resistors. Plenty of them on ebay.   > > Very handy little things. No reforming function as yet.   > Won't be easy to reform caps without a wee bit more voltage than a 9V battery can supply. Besides, if a cap needs reforming, it's best to not use it.   a non-challenge to step it up onboard.   > You never know it might appear one day, but I'm not optimistic. And the one I have can't do in-circuit testing, nor C versus V info. But it does give C, ESR & loss with a single button press.   > I bought one because I couldn't resist it for the price, but I find it wildly inaccurate for low value resistance and low value capacitors. I found a calibration procedure on-line that uses a small value cap for a reference, but it only made it worse.   > Does identify terminals in transistors accurately though.   No-one would accuse them of being quality items, but very handy nonetheless. I hear there is a new version now & then with ever more functionality.     NT

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Oct 13 12:39AM -0700 > Nothing looks like it ever got very hot so I'm hoping the resistor > colors haven't changed much. > There are many flat rectangular devices that I think are mica caps   just beware of micamould domino caps, which are actually paper   > volts so I am wondering if the size is because of the high voltage > needed by the CRT. There is also a really big choke mounted above the > power xmfr.   quite likely a swinging choke psu, a volt reg arrangement of sorts   > Looking in the bottom I see that the large rectangular cans are > indeed electrolytic caps. They are being used as filters. There is a > can cap inside the bottom portion that is rated at 3500 VDC.   might make the EHT supply dangerous Ah, 1948. Probably is a killer EHT supply. https://www.oscilloscopemuseum.com/oscilloscope-dumont-241-s1431.html   > half vertically. It must be a neon bulb. But what for? > Cheers, > Eric   Neons were used as zeners. Their main downside was the need for much higher voltage to strike. If not designed around the result would be a major Vout spike - but soft starting the output is fairly trivial.     NT

You received this digest because you're subscribed to updates for this group. You can change your settings on the group membership page. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it send an email to sci.electronics.repair+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.