Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 25 updates in 3 topics

Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Oct 13 02:28PM -0400

In article <p2j6qed71pl09cs4953iauhhsnsjm1fbgc@4ax.com>,
Ken@invalid.news.com says...
 
> Each to his own. Mice are very cheap these days. I wouldn't dream of
> spending 20 minutes, the cost of new microswitches, soldering iron,
> and solder to save $20 or so for a new mouse.
 
I am with you Ken. Some things are just not worth the time and effort.
I can see that if someone really likes a particular mouse it is worth it
to them to tak half a day repairing a $ 20 item.
Ken Blake <Ken@invalid.news.com>: Oct 13 11:33AM -0700

On Sun, 13 Oct 2019 14:28:20 -0400, Ralph Mowery
 
>I am with you Ken. Some things are just not worth the time and effort.
>I can see that if someone really likes a particular mouse it is worth it
>to them to tak half a day repairing a $ 20 item.
 
 
Half a day? Not me. I'd spend the $20 and just buy a new one.
Paul <nospam@needed.invalid>: Oct 13 03:24PM -0400

Patrick wrote:
>> shown here;
>> http://cordes.blog.fc2.com/blog-entry-299.html
 
> And another screw is hidden under the label !!
 
I use a magnetic wand and move it around the base
of items like this, to try to verify in advance
where the screws are hidden. There's nothing
more embarrassing than ripping rubber feet off
something and finding "air" underneath :-/ The
screws, being ferrous, can sometimes be located
with my screw retrieval wand. Sometimes the screws
are far enough away from the surface, this can barely
detect them.
 
https://www.amazon.com/SE-8036TM-NEW-Telescoping-Magnetic-Capacity/dp/B000RB3XBA
 
And the screw under the label, sometimes the label
already has a criss-cross cut pattern in it, to
make it easier for the philips screwdriver to get
at the screw.
 
A good mouse now, only uses one screw, and one
end of the mouse forms a hinge, and the other end
has the screw placed in it. But back in the rubber ball
mouse era, there could be three screws.
 
The screws are easy to find on one of these :-)
It was the Rambo of mice, because it had "steel balls".
The rubber ball mice that came after this, were a joke.
 
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:HawleyMarkIImice.jpg
 
When disassembling the mouse, be particularly wary
of the scroll wheel, as the parts may not be "retained"
and if you tip the mouse upside-down with the cover
off, all sort of junk and little springs will go flying.
The mouse cover, is what prevents that from happening
normally.
 
1) Remove screws from bottom of mouse.
2) Tip mouse upright, scroll wheel facing up.
3) Now, remove top cover with captive plastic mouse buttons.
4) Examine what is underneath. Note whether
scroll wheel is "booby trapped" to fall apart on you.
 
Paul
Paul in Houston TX <Paul@Houston.Texas>: Oct 13 02:59PM -0500

Ken Blake wrote:
 
> Each to his own. Mice are very cheap these days. I wouldn't dream of
> spending 20 minutes, the cost of new microswitches, soldering iron,
> and solder to save $20 or so for a new mouse.
 
:) I like fixing things. It's sort of a hobby.
Ordering a new one for $12 is not nearly as much fun.
tabbypurr@gmail.com: Oct 13 01:44PM -0700

On Sunday, 13 October 2019 20:59:18 UTC+1, Paul in Houston TX wrote:
> > and solder to save $20 or so for a new mouse.
 
> :) I like fixing things. It's sort of a hobby.
> Ordering a new one for $12 is not nearly as much fun.
 
and a lot of the time you get it, working, there & then. That can be useful, enabling other jobs to be done. But mice I chuck.
 
 
NT
Arlen _G_ Holder <_arlen.george@halder.edu>: Oct 13 08:46PM

On Sun, 13 Oct 2019 11:33:50 -0700, Ken Blake wrote:
 
> Half a day? Not me. I'd spend the $20 and just buy a new one.
 
Here, in the Silicon Valley, I know guys who'd rather make money than spend
time with their kids, which I think is the wrong perspective.
 
Likewise, I know people who'd rather pay someone to maintain their car,
rather than maintain it themselves - again - which doesn't help them when
they actually NEED to understand how a vehicle works.
 
I know people who wouldn't fix a mouse - nor help a little old lady cross
the road - nor pick up a neighbor's kids from school - all because they can
make more money elsewhere.
 
My point is that if it's only about the money - it's generally shallow.
o It's also a waste of resources to throw out working stuff.
 
People are so shallow sometimes... it's irksome.
 
Maybe the OP likes to fix things?
I mean, there is a "repair" group on the newsgroup list, is there not?
Arlen _G_ Holder <_arlen.george@halder.edu>: Oct 13 08:51PM

On Sun, 13 Oct 2019 11:33:50 -0700, Ken Blake wrote:
 
> Half a day? Not me. I'd spend the $20 and just buy a new one.
 
A lot of people would rather make money than spend time with their kids.
 
Some of us enjoy fixing things for lots of reasons.
o Sometimes, it just fits right - in our hands, for example.
 
It's not always only about money.
o If it's only about money, it's shallow (IMHO).
 
For example, I enjoy fixing my car - and the cars of my kids - where I
change their oil, replace the clutch, do the brakes, overhaul the cooling
system, and even select, purchase, mount and balance their tires.
 
When you do stuff like that - you LEARN a lot.
o You learn a lot that others don't learn who are only out for the money.
 
For example, I enjoy setting up WiFi access points, for free, for my
neighbors. I learn a lot when I do that. In fact, while there's an ongoing
thread on that very topic, those who know the least seem to have infested
that thread the most in the last few hours.
 
The fact remains, if the OP wants to fix his mouse ... then we should try
to help him (if we can). It's not "advice" to say to pay for a new mouse.
 
Do you think even for a second that the OP doesn't know that?
o If the OP was _that_ shallow - he wouldn't have asked the question.
Arlen _G_ Holder <_arlen.george@halder.edu>: Oct 13 08:54PM

On Sun, 13 Oct 2019 20:51:24 -0000 (UTC), Arlen _G_ Holder wrote:
 
> Do you think even for a second that the OP doesn't know that?
> o If the OP was _that_ shallow - he wouldn't have asked the question.
 
Sorry for the hiccup. The machine crashed and the scripts must have still
run. I don't use a newsreader... it's just vi with telnet scripts.
 
Mea culpa.
 
BTW, if the OP needs pictures, I have plenty of my IBM mouse refurbish.
<https://i.postimg.cc/5tr2SxsL/mouse02.jpg>
Rene Lamontagne <rlamont@shaw.ca>: Oct 13 04:08PM -0500

On 2019-10-13 3:54 p.m., Arlen _G_ Holder wrote:
 
> Mea culpa.
 
> BTW, if the OP needs pictures, I have plenty of my IBM mouse refurbish.
> <https://i.postimg.cc/5tr2SxsL/mouse02.jpg>
 
Is that one of the mice that came over on the Ark? Male or Female? :-)
 
 
Rene
Paul <nospam@needed.invalid>: Oct 13 05:20PM -0400

Rene Lamontagne wrote:
>> <https://i.postimg.cc/5tr2SxsL/mouse02.jpg>
 
> Is that one of the mice that came over on the Ark? Male or Female? :-)
 
> Rene
 
That's a one-screw mouse, so it can't be that old.
 
*******
 
This article, has a picture of the Hawley mouse.
 
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Computer_mouse
 
And that was my first mouse. Apparently made around 1975.
Steel balls on the outside. A little small for your hand
(because it doesn't have a scroll wheel or give a rats
ass about ergonomy). And your next problem would be,
if you found an old one, the interface is neither USB
nor PS/2, and instead, gives "pulses" for +/-X and +/-Y.
So you need to whip together some counter circuits to
make something a bit better for your OS to use.
 
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:HawleyMarkIImice.jpg
 
But still, a nice mouse, and not surpassed until the
second generation of optical mice meant never ever
again having to worry about what the mouse was resting
on. Or how dirty the place was...
 
Paul
Rene Lamontagne <rlamont@shaw.ca>: Oct 13 04:35PM -0500

On 2019-10-13 4:20 p.m., Paul wrote:
> again having to worry about what the mouse was resting
> on. Or how dirty the place was...
 
>    Paul
The micro switches are quite large compared to now, Is that a Pot
sticking up where the wheel should be?
or is it an actuator for the center button?
 
Rene
"J. P. Gilliver (John)" <G6JPG@255soft.uk>: Oct 13 11:25PM +0100

In message <qnvvmj$kqe$1@dont-email.me>, Paul in Houston TX
>Ken Blake wrote:
[]
>> Each to his own. Mice are very cheap these days. I wouldn't dream of
>> spending 20 minutes, the cost of new microswitches, soldering iron,
>> and solder to save $20 or so for a new mouse.
 
That's assuming the model the OP likes is still available; I think he
thought it wasn't, but someone here found them.
 
>:) I like fixing things. It's sort of a hobby.
>Ordering a new one for $12 is not nearly as much fun.
 
I share that hobby: I'll certainly spend more time than a thing is worth
trying to fix it, if I think the fault is something simple: the
throwaway philosophy bugs me. I'll admit, I give up a lot sooner now
than I used to, though.
--
J. P. Gilliver. UMRA: 1960/<1985 MB++G()AL-IS-Ch++(p)Ar@T+H+Sh0!:`)DNAf
 
The motto of the Royal Society is: 'Take nobody's word for it'. Scepticism has
value. - Brian Cox, RT 2015/3/14-20
Paul <nospam@needed.invalid>: Oct 13 08:33PM -0400

Rene Lamontagne wrote:
> sticking up where the wheel should be?
> or is it an actuator for the center button?
 
> Rene
 
The IBM mouse above, the microswitches look "normal" sized to me.
 
The thing in the center, I had to use the mouse cover to
guess at the function. It looks like a rubber nubbin, and
that would make the thing on the PCB, some sort of 2D strain
gauge.
 
But there's also what looks like a LED next to it,
and the LED is not pointed in any specific direction.
It could be for illuminating the rubber nubbin, as I don't
see any other function it could carry out, considering the
angle it is pointed.
 
This isn't the same item, but it's along the same lines. "Trackpoint mouse"
 
https://www.microsoft.com/buxtoncollection/detail.aspx?id=121
 
https://www.microsoft.com/buxtoncollection/detail.aspx?id=120
 
Paul
Rene Lamontagne <rlamont@shaw.ca>: Oct 13 08:04PM -0500

On 2019-10-13 7:33 p.m., Paul wrote:
 
> https://www.microsoft.com/buxtoncollection/detail.aspx?id=121
 
> https://www.microsoft.com/buxtoncollection/detail.aspx?id=120
 
>    Paul
 
OK, that makes sense. Thanks.
 
Rene
Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Oct 13 02:23PM -0400

In article <5f92671f-9d51-421b-a60c-133e41a5c8f0@googlegroups.com>,
tabbypurr@gmail.com says...
 
> > Does identify terminals in transistors accurately though.
 
> No-one would accuse them of being quality items, but very handy nonetheless. I hear there is a new version now & then with ever more functionality.
 
What is interisting is a company called Peak makes several versions for
around $ 100. The cheat people that are not informed. One device only
tests the solid state devices and the other tests restiors, capacitors
and inductors. That way you are forced to buy two of the units.
 
They are practically the same as the all in one $ 20 device in a fancy
case.
 
They are not lab quality instruments but for $ 20 they work very well at
the hobby grade.
 
As far as forming capacitors, if the capacitor is over 20 years old and
there is any doubt, just replace it. I have read that new capacitors
are formed at the factory at a slightly higher voltage because they will
deterioate just sitting on the shelf. Those may be worth while bringing
the voltage up slow on if they have been on the shelf for a long period
of time
tabbypurr@gmail.com: Oct 13 01:39PM -0700

On Sunday, 13 October 2019 19:23:59 UTC+1, Ralph Mowery wrote:
> the hobby grade.
 
> As far as forming capacitors, if the capacitor is over 20 years old and
> there is any doubt, just replace it.
 
A lot of people have that approach. Whether replacing sound historic caps with new ones that likely won't last is a good plan is debated.
 
 
> deterioate just sitting on the shelf. Those may be worth while bringing
> the voltage up slow on if they have been on the shelf for a long period
> of time
 
same happens to old caps. Doesn't mean they're dud.
 
 
NT
peter wieck <peterwieck9@gmail.com>: Oct 13 02:35PM -0700

RANT WARNING!
 
On tube testers - with the exception of very modern testers that will plot curves on a PC, effectively there are two types of testers and within each type, two tiers.
 
A top-tier emissions-tester is good for 99-44/100ths of most hobby uses. It is, for the record, very nearly as good as a second-tier GM tester. Better in some few cases.
 
A top-tier emissions tester will also test (reasonably accurately) for "SHORTS" and "GAS" - which functions are what separate a tester from the device itself. Reject any tester out of hand if it does not do shorts and gas. It is useless in actual practice. A Heath TC-2/3 and many others will meet the most basic needs of the hobbyist. Prices for Emissions-Only testers are, perhaps, 20% of the price of a GM tester, all other things being equal.
 
A standard GM tester will also test for shorts and gas - some better than others. By virtue of being a GM tester, such a unit will give a >RELATIVE< indication of actual tube quality against a narrow set of fixed parameters. That information is very nearly useless *unless* one has known-good tubes with which to compare readings.
 
Now, a top-tier GM tester (and there are very, very few) will allow one to set bias, read filament current, plate current, and - thereby - allow one to actually match tubes accurately. An example of such would be the Hickok 539 series. But NOT (emphatically) a TV7, however popular and expensive it might be.
 
Unless one is seriously into audio and has an actual need to match tubes and/or do qualitative testing, don't waste your money on such a tester. And, if one is as deeply in as all that, look into the modern testers with curve-tracers and so forth. Big bucks. Or, if, as I did, you should trip over a fully calibrated 539B, grab it. But, at the going rate of $1,000 and up, not so much.
 
Now, on WHY:
 
A tube with a short - especially a thermally dependent short can do great harm if it fails in-situ and without the operator right there with the instant shut-down device. A slagged rectifier tube, for instance, can take out a power-transformer in seconds. And why it is that a certain tubes should be tested for some time on a tester to look for thermal faults. Open filaments are seldom a threat, but shorts really, really are. And, a thermal short will NOT show up with a VOM testing at the pins.
 
A tube tester is handy. It allows one to develop a stock of good, trustworthy tubes such that when 'at work' one may simply substitute-and-test-later without agonizing. One also avoids cascade-effects, where a series of weak tubes give symptoms not attributable to any one (or two) tubes. A good example of such would be a multi-band radio that is perfectly fine on AM, but weak on SW, or silent on FM, if so-equipped.
 
So, Eric, out there on your island - if you want a tube tester, DO NOT go out there on eBay. DO go either to a trusted dealer - there are several - and expect to pay a premium for a good, clean, warranted device. OR, go to a trusted friend who is more in harm's way than you might be, and use him/her as a bird-dog for you. At Kutztown, there are never less than 30 - 50 tube testers on-offer, of which more than 80% of them are not worth the cost of plugging them in. Of the remaining 20% most of them are too much work to make reliable. Of those few remaining, they can be gems. But, I would guarantee that if one were to attend two sequential events, and have a budget of $200 or so (inclusive of shipping), one would wind up with a fully functional device with the correct literature to cover most of the tubes you will encounter in this hobby.
 
End Rant
 
Some other points:
 
a) An individual primarily working with instrument amplifiers as an example, will have a very limited universe of tubes to test. For that individual, a full-range tester will be heavily compromised due to its all-things-to-all-people requirement. That person needs a specialty tester. Those who routinely use, maybe, 10 kinds of tubes, but whose collection uses well over 200 kinds of tubes might be a bit hamstrung by a specialty tester.
 
b) There are those here that are genuinely dangerous, and should be strung up by their thumbs from the nearest lamppost for the advice they give. Have the wisdom to discern the issues involved.
 
c) And there are those here with specific prejudices, peculiarities and expectations - some more hostile than others. I more-or-less fit into this category at times. Same advice as above.
 
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Oct 13 04:36PM -0500


> A lot of people have that approach. Whether replacing sound
> historic caps with new ones that likely won't last is a good > plan is debated.
 
> NT
 
 
And still, you persist in this stupidity.
Quality electrolytics these days are quite reliable and long
lived. Unless you're buying cheap counterfeits from China.
 
I've been repairing (which includes blanket recaps) for the
past 25 years now, I have yet to have a customer bring back a
radio because a cap failed.
 
Which is exactly why I do what I do.
 
 
 
--
"I am a river to my people."
Jeff-1.0
WA6FWi
http:foxsmercantile.com
tabbypurr@gmail.com: Oct 13 04:08PM -0700

On Sunday, 13 October 2019 22:36:21 UTC+1, Fox's Mercantile wrote:
 
> I've been repairing (which includes blanket recaps) for the
> past 25 years now, I have yet to have a customer bring back a
> radio because a cap failed.
 
That's one side of the recap all or not debate, and of course new caps don't fail in short order. The OP is free to find out why some of us don't do that. I tire of your stupidity.
 
 
NT
Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Oct 13 06:17PM -0500

> free to find out why some of us don't do that. I tire of
> your stupidity.
 
> NT
 
Bwahahaha, I could have sworn you kill filed me dear.
Obviously you lied about that too.
 
Let's see how you talk your way out of this.
 
 
--
"I am a river to my people."
Jeff-1.0
WA6FWi
http:foxsmercantile.com
Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Oct 13 06:19PM -0500

> The OP is free to find out why some of us don't do that.
 
The answer is obvious.
You're hack.
Too lazy to do a job correctly and you find infinite ways
to justify your position.
 
--
"I am a river to my people."
Jeff-1.0
WA6FWi
http:foxsmercantile.com
Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Oct 13 04:42PM -0700

peter wieck who has a serious mental disability wrote:
 
------------------------------------------------------
 
> RANT WARNING!
 
 
** Nice warning - plus thoroughly needed.
 
 
( snip the whole stupid lot )
 
 
 
> Some other points:
 
> a) An individual primarily working with instrument amplifiers as an example, will have a very limited universe of tubes to test. For that individual, a full-range tester will be heavily compromised due to its all-things-to-all-people requirement. That person needs a specialty tester.
 
** That person needs to BUILD their own as none exist already.
 
Or, do as has been done by technicians ever since the invention of radios and TV sets - use the item under repair as the tube tester.
 
Conditions met in commercial equipment regularly exceed the ones built into so called tube testers - most of which are useless when it comes to revealing common faults and shortcomings in particular tubes that show up readily when placed into actual service.
 
** Makers of various tube testing devices DO NOT claim the miraculous abilities that so many fuckwit owners of them try to claim. **
 
 

> b) There are those here that are genuinely dangerous, and should be
> strung up by their thumbs from the nearest lamppost for the advice they give.
 
** Boy oh boy - is Mr Weaky ever one of them.
 
Dangerous, mostly because the geriatric fool has NO fucking idea how mindlessly arrogant and stupid he is.
 
 
 
.... Phil
"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Oct 13 05:28PM -0700

You are to be pitied, sadly.
 
But, respected, not so much.
 
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com>: Oct 14 12:35AM

On Sun, 13 Oct 2019 13:39:57 -0700, tabbypurr wrote:
 
> A lot of people have that approach. Whether replacing sound historic
> caps with new ones that likely won't last is a good plan is debated.
 
Absolutely. I've just tested some big old electros that are well over 40
years old and they're all *totally* fine by any measure. Good, high
quality manufacturers of the day and built to last. I would not want to
take a chance on replacing them with new stuff that could be fake from
the far East. In fact I don't even trust new electros from formerly
respected manufacturers if they've turned production over to places like
China.
 
 
 
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"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Oct 13 05:26PM -0700

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