Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 25 updates in 7 topics

Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Nov 22 04:11PM -0500

In article <qr9e6p$7f6$1@dont-email.me>, curd@notformail.com says...
 
> Question is, what is the correct name for this 'mystery component' and
> what should it read resistance-wise when cold?
 
It might be a simple fuse. See if the resistance is zero/near zero when
warm and cold. Can not tell from the photo, but looks tohave a 7A over
the 120 volt.
Andy Burns <usenet@andyburns.uk>: Nov 22 08:17PM

Cursitor Doom wrote:
 
> https://tinyurl.com/t7s6og8
 
> Question is, what is the correct name for this 'mystery component'
 
PTC thermistor?
thermal fuse?
 
<http://www.aolittel.com/sale-10973142-aupo-p3-f-pico-subminiature-pellet-ceramic-thermal-fuse-tf-cutoff-125c-250v-2a-axial-leaded-for-air-.html>
Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com>: Nov 22 07:50PM

Gentlemen,
 
I refer to you this photo of the internals of a typical modern cheap and
nasty blanket controller. All the components it uses are shown on this
board: just 5 diodes, 3 resistors and some 'mystery component' whose
function is presumably to sense overheating from the two resistors it's
between and cut-back the mains voltage to the blanket itself if needed.
 
https://tinyurl.com/t7s6og8
 
 
Question is, what is the correct name for this 'mystery component' and
what should it read resistance-wise when cold?
 
Thanks!
 
 
 
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Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com>: Nov 22 07:53PM

> Question is, what is the correct name for this 'mystery component' and
> what should it read resistance-wise when cold?
 
... and (I forgot first time around)... why have they put a couple of
turns in each of the leads?
 
 
 
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Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com>: Nov 22 09:53PM

On Fri, 22 Nov 2019 20:17:25 +0000, Andy Burns wrote:
 
> PTC thermistor?
> thermal fuse?
 
> <http://www.aolittel.com/sale-10973142-aupo-p3-f-pico-subminiature-
pellet-ceramic-thermal-fuse-tf-cutoff-125c-250v-2a-axial-leaded-for-
air-.html>
 
Bingo, Andy! Good call.
 
 
 
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Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com>: Nov 22 09:54PM

On Fri, 22 Nov 2019 16:11:31 -0500, Ralph Mowery wrote:
 
> It might be a simple fuse. See if the resistance is zero/near zero when
> warm and cold. Can not tell from the photo, but looks tohave a 7A over
> the 120 volt.
 
It's actually 2A in this case. Andy's suggestion was correct. But like
you say, the resistance should be pretty low whereas it's actually
infinite, so looks like it's blown.
 
 
 
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marty <m@m.org>: Nov 23 06:08PM +1100

On 23/11/19 5:34 pm, whit3rd wrote:
 
> The diodes presumably send current to heating element A on
> positive half-cycles, and heating element B on negative half-cycles
> (so as to retain some function if one element fails open-circuit).
 
It's cactus, throw the thing out.
Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Nov 21 03:49PM -0600


>>> NT
 
>> Like I said, you're a hack.
 
> like I said you're childish.
 
That's your opinion.
My opinion is that you're hack.
 
 
--
"I am a river to my people."
Jeff-1.0
WA6FWi
http:foxsmercantile.com
Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Nov 22 04:22AM -0600

On 11/22/19 3:22 AM, Cursitor Doom wrote:
> On Thu, 21 Nov 2019 15:49:38 -0600, Fox's Mercantile wrote:
 
>> My opinion is that you're hack.
 
> My opinion is you're Phil Alison and ICTFP.
 
Oh look, the hacks are circling the wagons.
 
 
 
--
"I am a river to my people."
Jeff-1.0
WA6FWi
http:foxsmercantile.com
Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Nov 22 07:54AM -0800

On Sun, 10 Nov 2019 13:37:34 -0000 (UTC), Cursitor Doom
>failed, just the unmistakable smell that *something* has. The device
>still powers up fine and the screen traces are normal, so wtf else goes
>*bang* and smells toxic?
 
You seem to be floundering:
 
1. Are you sure that it was the HP VNA that blew a capacitor or
something? When you removed the case, was it lit up?
 
2. Toxic smells tend to be cause by vaporized electrolye. That
leaves a messy stain which should have been present. If you can't see
the damage, perhaps playing bloodhound and smelling for the damage
might help. Find a vinyl hose, cram it into your nose, and sniff
around the VNA and the shop for the strongest smell. Unless you use
an air freshener (nasal desensitize), you should be able to find the
source many days after it went bang.
 
3. When you tested the electrolytics, did you use both an ESR meter
and a capacitance meter? If the ESR meter doesn't show a problem, the
capacitance meter might.
 
4. Do you have a UV LED flashlight? When tracking down bulging
electrolytic problems on computah motherboards, I sometimes (not
always) can seen the electrolyte residue using a UV flashlight.
 
5. Did you have the AC power switch set for 230VAC or 117VAC?
 
6. Check if the small is coming from a power strip. The MOV's
sometimes go bang.
 
Argh, gotta run...
--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com>: Nov 22 09:22AM

On Thu, 21 Nov 2019 15:49:38 -0600, Fox's Mercantile wrote:
 
> My opinion is that you're hack.
 
My opinion is you're Phil Alison and ICTFP.
 
 
 
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Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Nov 23 08:45AM -0800

On Sat, 23 Nov 2019 01:37:35 -0000 (UTC), Cursitor Doom
>That cap has now been replaced and the device appears to be working fine
>again, although after 10 years of storage there's no doubt some re-
>aligning and whatnot to be done.
 
62 articles and growing. I got lazy and just skimmed the articles
posted by those who had a history of successful troubleshooting. I
didn't see anything that looked like success, so I posted my
suggestions on the assumption that the obvious culprits and usual
suspects had been eliminated. Anyway, congrats on fixing the problem.
 
 
 
--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
etpm@whidbey.com: Nov 21 05:35PM -0800

I'm pretty bsure this is a real long shot. I have looked online but
have not yet found something that will help. So I ask here.
The EPROM reader/programmer arrived yesterday and it works fine.
The UV EPROM eraser should be here in a day or two. Amazon apologized
for the delay. So I can copy the EPROMs just fine but I would really
like the ladder programs so that I can make some changes to the
machine.
I understand that the decompiled ladder will noit have mnemonics
but maybe I can decipher it anyway.
The control in question is a FANUC 3T.
Thanks,
Eric
Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Nov 21 08:33PM -0600

On 11/21/19 8:09 PM, Clifford Heath wrote:
>> Eric
 
> How in heck do yu expect help with a decompiler when you haven't told
> anyone what type of CPU it is?
 
Please try to pay attention.
"The control in question is a FANUC 3T."
 
 
 
--
"I am a river to my people."
Jeff-1.0
WA6FWi
http:foxsmercantile.com
etpm@whidbey.com: Nov 22 09:07AM -0800

On Thu, 21 Nov 2019 23:59:31 -0800 (PST), whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com>
wrote:
 
 
>> > "The control in question is a FANUC 3T."
 
>A manual found online says the 3T master board uses an 8086, so it'll decompile
>as an 8088 would (different bus, but same opcodes).
Thanks You. Now maybe I can find something to work. This stuff is way
out of my experience but with some guidance I'm hoping to be able to
decipher the ladder.
Eric
etpm@whidbey.com: Nov 22 09:06AM -0800

On Fri, 22 Nov 2019 13:09:58 +1100, Clifford Heath
>> Eric
 
>How in heck do yu expect help with a decompiler when you haven't told
>anyone what type of CPU it is?
Well, that's why I'm asking for help. I know hardly anything about
this stuff.
Eric
Clifford Heath <no.spam@please.net>: Nov 22 01:09PM +1100

> The control in question is a FANUC 3T.
> Thanks,
> Eric
 
How in heck do yu expect help with a decompiler when you haven't told
anyone what type of CPU it is?
Bill Martin <wwm@wwmartin.net>: Nov 21 06:33PM -0800

On 11/21/19 6:09 PM, Clifford Heath wrote:
>> Eric
 
> How in heck do yu expect help with a decompiler when you haven't told
> anyone what type of CPU it is?
It's even harder...ladder logic isn't a "cpu machine language" as such,
it's an interpreter running in some native cpu machine language...so
there would be a whole other layer of translation involved in order to
produce anything a human might be able to comprehend. Unless your
computer is made from relays...but why bother.
Clifford Heath <no.spam@please.net>: Nov 22 03:22PM +1100

On 22/11/19 1:33 pm, Fox's Mercantile wrote:
>> anyone what type of CPU it is?
 
> Please try to pay attention.
> "The control in question is a FANUC 3T."
 
That's the packaged controller.
It contains a CPU.
The CPU interprets some ladder codes.
 
It's highly unlikely that the information required to decode the EPROM
has ever been published. This sort of thing is usually trade secret.
 
If the CPU is known, and the interpreter ROM is read, there's some
possibility of using a decompiler.
John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Nov 22 10:54AM -0800

Anyone have a copy of the operators manual (with schematics) for the
Sencore Video Analyzer 48? I have the Speed Test Set-Up Booklet
(physical, not PDF).
 
Trying to get mine running properly for servicing TVs used in video
games from the early 70s.
 
Bitsavers, archive.org, and other online resources sources don't have
this. The only ones I found were in a Google Drive link that has gone
invalid.
 
As I track these down I will host them on TTL (Tech Tools List archive).
 
Thanks!
 
John :-#)#
--
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd.
MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3
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Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Nov 21 03:53PM -0600

> based boards with zero board damage rate. Early paper
> PCBs are somewhat notorious for tracks coming off when
> heated.
 
If you lack the skills to do this, you're a hack.
It's that simple.
I've been doing this for 50 years now.
I don't lift traces, or break off terminals unsoldering
things.
 
 
--
"I am a river to my people."
Jeff-1.0
WA6FWi
http:foxsmercantile.com
bje@ripco.com: Nov 28 11:19AM


> If the side that was higher is now lower and vice versa, you have an open
> lamp(s) in the display. You might be able to find CCFL tubes on line to
> replace them.
 
 
Thanks for passing along the info and it makes sense to me.
 
I didn't know the bulbs could go bad like that (even though when the set is
on, the picture looks quite good with brightness and color temp).
 
I really doubt I'll proceed any further, I tried that lamp replacement once
with a laptop and it didn't go well. Having all the different video inputs
is handy but that really is the only thing going for it.
 
But since vga and dvi connections are becoming rare what is the point.
 
thanks again,
 
-bruce
bje@ripco.com
"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Nov 27 09:39AM -0800


> Hook the fridge up to a surge protector.
 
Surge Protectors are designed to work on incoming power. Depending on the design, they are far less effective with outgoing surges. And, if you have, in fact, a drop in voltage due to a hard-start, the will have no effect at all.
 
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com>: Nov 28 08:53AM

On Wed, 27 Nov 2019 06:43:28 -0800, bruce2bowser wrote:
 
> Hook the fridge up to a surge protector.
 
If it's the back EMF from the motor as I assume it will be, then it'll be
a spike, not a surge, and that requires a different approach.
 
 
 
 
 
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Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com>: Nov 28 08:55AM

> the design, they are far less effective with outgoing surges. And, if
> you have, in fact, a drop in voltage due to a hard-start, the will have
> no effect at all.
 
It's more likely a spike from the motor current being suddenly shut-off.
Remember motors are reactive components.
 
 
 
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