Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 21 updates in 4 topics

Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com>: Nov 23 01:37AM

On Fri, 22 Nov 2019 07:54:53 -0800, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
 
> 1. Are you sure that it was the HP VNA that blew a capacitor or
> something? When you removed the case, was it lit up?
 
Thank you, Jeffrey. Not sure if you were able to read the thread right
through, but it's been established that the blown cap was an X2 rated one
fitted right across the incoming mains power line. It took a while to
confirm this was the actual culprit as it was well buried under a load of
spaghetti. When I finally got it out I was able to see it had literally
exploded which accounts for the report I heard from 30' away.
That cap has now been replaced and the device appears to be working fine
again, although after 10 years of storage there's no doubt some re-
aligning and whatnot to be done.
 
 
 
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Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com>: Nov 24 12:02AM

On Sat, 23 Nov 2019 08:27:56 -0600, Fox's Mercantile wrote:
 
> different things."
> "The question is," said Humpty Dumpty, "which is to be master—that's
> all."
 
I think I can see your problem now: you're a MORON.
 
 
 
 
 
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Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Nov 24 10:23AM -0600

On 11/24/19 8:20 AM, Cursitor Doom wrote:
> the network analyser I freely admitted to butchering earlier in the
> thread?
 
> No Sherlock you, but blind as well as rude and ignorant, clearly.
 
Yes I did, that's why I said you're hack.
 
 
--
"I am a river to my people."
Jeff-1.0
WA6FWi
http:foxsmercantile.com
Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com>: Nov 24 04:50PM

On Sun, 24 Nov 2019 10:23:52 -0600, Fox's Mercantile wrote:
 
> Yes I did, that's why I said you're hack.
 
No, specifically you said and I quote: "I pointed out that you're a hack"
which implies you have some sort of superior cognitive ability which the
regulars here don't possess. Like as if everyone else needs an obnoxious
*MORON* like you to spoon feed them the obvious!
 
 
 
 
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Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com>: Nov 24 02:20PM

On Sun, 24 Nov 2019 07:11:14 -0600, Fox's Mercantile wrote:
 
> That's precious.
> I pointed out that you're a hack.
 
You're a *MORON* and a DUMBASS. Did you not see the picture I posted of
the network analyser I freely admitted to butchering earlier in the
thread?
 
No Sherlock you, but blind as well as rude and ignorant, clearly.
 
 
 
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Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Nov 24 02:24PM -0600

On 11/24/19 10:50 AM, Cursitor Doom wrote:
> which implies you have some sort of superior cognitive ability which the
> regulars here don't possess. Like as if everyone else needs an obnoxious
> *MORON* like you to spoon feed them the obvious!
 
And there you have it...
You're a hack. You just said so yourself.
 
 
 
--
"I am a river to my people."
Jeff-1.0
WA6FWi
http:foxsmercantile.com
Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Nov 25 02:22PM -0600

On 11/25/19 1:09 PM, Ralph Mowery wrote:
> back inside the car. Took a hole saw on a drill and cut a hole.
> Replaced the plug , pop rivited a beer can cutout over the hole and
> replaced the carpet.
 
That's a clever repair. I did the same thing on a '68 Dodge station
wagon. The freeze plug on the rear of the cylinder heads.
Cut a hole, or pull the intake and the heads. Obvious choice.
 
WHEN you work on your own vehicle. You have next to zero funds and
you need to drive it into work the next day.
 
Had I had the time, I would have pulled the engine and replaced all
the freeze plugs at the same time instead of one at a time.
 
I had the time over the weekend, and that's exactly what I did.
including pulling the flywheel and getting the two behind it.
 
 
 
 
 
 
--
"I am a river to my people."
Jeff-1.0
WA6FWi
http:foxsmercantile.com
Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Nov 25 03:05PM -0600

> Cut a hole, or pull the intake and the heads. Obvious choice.
 
> Care to speculate, as I asked Ralph, on the consequences?
 
As to the operation of the cooling system? No difference of
doing it right. The plug was installed correctly using an
installation tool.
To the vehicle itself? A Campbell's soup can lid pop riveted
to the firewall over the hole I cut. Complete with some
sealant to properly seal the firewall.
 
However, I might add, that the following weekend, I pulled
the engine out and replaced the rest of the freeze plugs.
Because I didn't want any more trouble with them.
 
 
 
--
"I am a river to my people."
Jeff-1.0
WA6FWi
http:foxsmercantile.com
Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Nov 25 02:09PM -0500

In article <JrednUxVUfnRCEbAnZ2dnUU7-SednZ2d@giganews.com>,
jdangus@att.net says...
> He has finally admitted to being a hack.
> I said you were a hack.
> I stand by my observation.
 
Sometimes it takes a hack to get the job done at a reasonable cost.
 
Like a car company wanted lots of money to replace a freeze plug on a
car engine. Due to where it was placed , they said the motor needed to
be pulled.
 
A local hack said he could do it for almost nothing. Pulled the carpet
back inside the car. Took a hole saw on a drill and cut a hole.
Replaced the plug , pop rivited a beer can cutout over the hole and
replaced the carpet.
Al <iqbalali898@noreply.com>: Nov 26 12:08AM


> Care to speculate on the horrific consequences of that particular
> "hack"?
 
Yeah, I should imagine the possibility of a slight draft in the area of
the footwell that side. Just maybe... But that's all.
Mike Coon <gravity@mjcoon.plus.com>: Nov 26 09:37AM

In article <MPG.384642a55dafaf14989c5a@news.east.earthlink.net>,
rmowery28146@earthlink.net says...
 
> I doubt a 3 inch in diameter how would cause any real problem. It would
> have cost more than the car was worth anyway if the motor had to be
> pulled.
 
When I was a student I shared rides in a car with a hole in the floor on
the passenger side. The trick was to keep your foot on the hole to avoid
when going through any puddle getting a jet of water up your trouser
leg.
 
We probably could not afford a pop-riveter and sealant, and the beer may
have come in bottles. Wet carpets are no fun, either...
 
Mike.
Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com>: Nov 23 01:40AM

On Fri, 22 Nov 2019 04:22:06 -0600, Fox's Mercantile wrote:
 
 
>>> My opinion is that you're hack.
 
>> My opinion is you're Phil Alison and ICTFP.
 
> Oh look, the hacks are circling the wagons.
 
You can call me a hack as well if you like; I couldn't give a shit TBH.
I'm not very practical. I get the job done but it doesn't look as pretty
as some genius like yourself would leave it. But do I care? Nope! Because
the case goes back on and no one can see it anyway.
 
 
 
 
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Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com>: Nov 24 10:08AM

On Sat, 23 Nov 2019 18:54:28 -0600, Fox's Mercantile wrote:
 
> On 11/23/19 6:02 PM, Cursitor Doom wrote:
>> I think I can see your problem now: you're a MORON.
 
> Do you honestly believe I give a flying fuck what you think?
 
Just pointing it out for the benefit of others here who may not yet be
fully familiar with your profane outpourings of ill-informed garbage and
propensity to discharge same.
 
 
 
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Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Nov 24 02:22PM -0600

> life's too short for this much childishness. Sorry.
 
And yet you persist.
 
--
"I am a river to my people."
Jeff-1.0
WA6FWi
http:foxsmercantile.com
Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com>: Nov 25 10:12PM

On Sun, 24 Nov 2019 22:10:44 -0800, tabbypurr wrote:
 
> he's aping slowman.
 
Just plain aping. I find it impossible to believe that anyone could
*genuinely* be that stupid. Hence my deduction he's a troll - and now one
of the very few posters I've felt it necessary to perma-plonk. Just think
of all that valuable future time I've saved myself by avoiding further
futile and infantile exchanges from him. >:-}
 
 
 
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Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Nov 23 08:18AM -0600


>> Sure you did. You asked *me* "...how you (meaning me) remove caps from paper based boards with zero board damage rate."
 
>> This indicates you can't.
 
> yawn
 
To a hammer, everything looks like a nail.
To a hack, everything looks like a can't.
 
 
--
"I am a river to my people."
Jeff-1.0
WA6FWi
http:foxsmercantile.com
Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com>: Nov 23 04:45PM

On Sat, 23 Nov 2019 18:08:11 +1100, marty wrote:
 
> It's cactus, throw the thing out.
 
I don't believe in doing that unless there's no other option. Having
grown up in the overhang of postwar rationing and austerity I feel
compelled to do all I can to rescue stuff if it's safe and practical to
do so. Plus our 'throw away society' is not doing the planet any favours
at all.
 
 
 
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Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com>: Nov 23 06:04PM

On Fri, 22 Nov 2019 22:34:01 -0800, whit3rd wrote:
 
> It's either an energency overtemperature cutoff (like a fuse), or a
> thermal switch that repeatedly time-cycles according to the
> heating/cooling time constant of its companion resistors.
 
I assumed it was tucked between those resistors to sense any higher than
usual warming in them. It's marked 76 degrees C in the case of this one.
I'm guessing it (since it's in series with the live line) that if the
temp rises above that level it will wind back the current, but this one
has blown completely open-circuit and maybe that's what it was designed
to do. Nothing visible, just on testing for resistance.
 
> The diodes presumably send current to heating element A on positive
> half-cycles, and heating element B on negative half-cycles (so as to
> retain some function if one element fails open-circuit).
 
Sounds feasible. I'll check the resistance of the heating elements and
see what they show. One may have gone partially short-circuit, causing
the fault in the first place. It's a 70W blanket so at 240V they should
come out at about 800 ohms in total if my quick 'n' dirty sums are
correct.
 
 
 
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Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com>: Nov 25 10:05PM

On Mon, 25 Nov 2019 07:57:16 +0200, Mikko OH2HVJ wrote:
 
 
> The turns are there for pliers or other tool to absorb the heat while
> soldering the thermal fuse to the PCB. It's quite easy to blow a low
> temperature rating thermal fuse while soldering.
 
Ah, thanks very much for that, Mikko; the missing piece in the jigsaw!
 
> What't the schematic like, are the resistors connected in such a way
> that they would heat during some failure condition and blow the fuse ?
 
I don't have a schematic, but that's been my working assumption
throughout. It makes sense that way.
 
 
 
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Starfella <starfella@starfella.net>: Nov 22 06:49PM -0500

On 11/22/19 2:50 PM, Cursitor Doom wrote:
 
> Question is, what is the correct name for this 'mystery component' and
> what should it read resistance-wise when cold?
 
> Thanks!
 
Not sure about the name of the component, but I will say that today's
electric blankets are awfully poor made. Years ago, when I had one
while growing up, it lasted for at least 10 years before someone threw
it away during cleaning. As an adult, I purchased a Sunbeam brand about
five years ago and I've never had one last more than 6-8 weeks! The
only type of heating blanket I've found in recent times that does last
are electric throws. I have two, purchased about 5 years ago, and with
heavy use, they still work fine. Problem is that they are a bit too
small for bed use although I make them work that way.
bje@ripco.com: Nov 26 11:30AM

> Have you done anything with the settings? Most TVs come from the factory
> on "display mode" with all settings at maximum. Which, of course would max
> out the power-supply.
 
 
Hmmm, I dunno about this, it's one thing to max out a power supply and
another to cause parts to smoke and burn. Me thinks Samsung would have a few
lawsuits to deal with just because someone enjoyed "vivid".
 
The set has had a hard life and there is really no tears here. Like I
mentioned, it's been in use for the past 10+ years, usually on for 12-15
hours a day (usually background noise).
 
The only reason it's not in the trash yet is 1) it's a native 1080p in a
small package (25") which doesn't seem to be made anymore and 2) it has just
about any video input you need, hdmi, dvi, vga, component and composite.
 
The sad part about all of this is I replaced it with a 32" Sanyo that
Microcenter was blowing out for $49.95, less than the parts I spent trying
to fix the Samsung.
 
-bruce
bje@ripco.com
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