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Terry Schwartz <tschw10117@aol.com>: Feb 22 04:56PM -0800 On Friday, February 21, 2020 at 10:40:17 PM UTC-6, Jeff Urban wrote: > >Christ. He asked a simple question. Why are you being such an >asshole?   > YOU read his fucking mind then.   > I was an asshole ? You ain't seen shit. Fukum.   Yep. You are clearly an asshole.

jjhudak4@gmail.com: Feb 23 08:19AM -0800 On Friday, February 21, 2020 at 9:46:50 AM UTC-5, Jeff Urban wrote:   > I tell you this, I studied a bit of psychology when I was younger and before they frigged it all up. (the dumbass DSM had not even been conceived) I can tell when people are lying, sometimes before they speak.   > But I can't read minds. That is a whole different thing and at this point in evolution is beyond our abilities.   > Hey, you a mechanic ? Friend of mine has a car that won't start. Help me.   Don't ya just love it? Yea, car won't start - whats wrong? lol OTOH, maybe the op is a 10 yo kid just beginning to learn the ways of the world...still, a little effort such a throwing some keywords on Google would go a long way and show some initiative. It amazes me how lazy people are. j

micky <NONONOaddressee@rushpost.com>: Feb 23 09:03AM -0500 Reception at a remote TV** has degraded and I thought maybe a splitter connection had gotten bad, even though they are all indoors.   No electronics stores in town anymore. Home Depot has normal ones but Google came up with https://www.walmart.com/ip/2-Way-Coaxial-Splitter-2-GHz-90dB-1-DC-Passing/892650362   And my question is, 90db!!! I'd think it was a typo, but there's a picture of it and it says it in big letters. This is loss, right? Typical loss is 3.5db. With 90db loss, there's be almost nothing left.   Is this meant to fool suckers? Even if this were meant to fool suckers, would anyone even make a splitter with 90db loss? (It also says 2.4GHz)   (It also says this, twice in a row: "With this splitter being capable of frequencies up to 2GHz, there's no need to worry about signal loss or degradation of runs up to 100 ft.")     Also, I've thought about replacing the first amplifier too. It seems to be warmer than it used to be. IIRC it used to be just barely warm and now it's warm to the touch. Similar looking amps claim 20db and 36db and unspecified. Because of the splitter above, I'm suspeciaous that 36db might be phoney and actually no more than 20db. I can find the links if you want them.   |--- 4 tvs in a row with an amplifier after the 2nd DVDR-[**]-| |--- 2 tvs in a row. Good reception at all 6 tv's except the 2nd one in this string.   **a splitter to 1 tv and an amp to all the others.   This had all been working fine for over 30 years. The problem tv started giving problems a few years ago. Changing the tv didn't help. (All but one are 14" CRT tvs.)     Back to splitters, 1) Any reason to buy a gold-plated splitter? Outdoor use? 2) Besides the extra $2 charge, is there any reason to NOT buy a power-passing splitter if I'm not sending any power?

Michael Terrell <terrell.michael.a@gmail.com>: Feb 23 07:53AM -0800 On Sunday, February 23, 2020 at 9:03:28 AM UTC-5, micky wrote: > Typical loss is 3.5db. With 90db loss, there's be almost nothing left.   > Is this meant to fool suckers? Even if this were meant to fool suckers, > would anyone even make a splitter with 90db loss? (It also says 2.4GHz)   That is return loss or isolation between the output ports, not the insertion loss.   > (It also says this, twice in a row: "With this splitter being capable of > frequencies up to 2GHz, there's no need to worry about signal loss or > degradation of runs up to 100 ft.")       2GHZ rating is for Sat TV use between the antenna and the receivers.     > and unspecified. Because of the splitter above, I'm suspicious that > 36db might be phony and actually no more than 20db. I can find the > links if you want them.     36 dB would overdrive your TVs unless the feed is really weak. You have a worst case loss of 10.5 dB in the splitters. The coaxial cable loss depends on the type, the length and the quality.     > DVDR-[**]-| > |--- 2 tvs in a row. Good reception at all 6 tv's except the > 2nd one in this string.     Swap the two outputs of the two way splitter and see if the same set sfill has problems, or if at moved to he other TV.     > 1) Any reason to buy a gold-plated splitter? Outdoor use? > 2) Besides the extra $2 charge, is there any reason to NOT buy a > power-passing splitter if I'm not sending any power?     Gold plating never tested better in the lab, and you don't need power passing for this application.

KenW <ken1943@invalid.net>: Feb 23 07:49AM -0700 On Sun, 23 Feb 2020 09:03:23 -0500, micky >1) Any reason to buy a gold-plated splitter? Outdoor use? >2) Besides the extra $2 charge, is there any reason to NOT buy a >power-passing splitter if I'm not sending any power?   Probably 90db isolation between output ports     KenW

micky <NONONOaddressee@rushpost.com>: Feb 23 09:15AM -0500 In sci.electronics.repair, on Thu, 20 Feb 2020 05:01:14 -0800 (PST),   >The Troll is back. Please do not feed the troll!   Aha. I saw him in Home Repair with this same "question" and took him seriously, even though the question is strange.

micky <NONONOaddressee@rushpost.com>: Feb 23 09:14AM -0500 In sci.electronics.repair, on Tue, 18 Feb 2020 11:46:44 -0800 (PST),   >To handle other devices, you used an RF modulator to take composite video and convert to NTSC channel 3 or 4.   >Now it's way harder and way more expensive to convert to ATSC. levels will be lower, but there would be better immunity to dropouts.   >ATSC 3.0 which is coming soon will make everything that you do obsolete anyway.   Only my DVDR tuner is digital. The output is analog, so I'm using Ch. 3 everywhere.   Thanks all. I started another sort-of related thread.

Nife Sima <gorplop@sdf.org>: Feb 23 12:04AM +0100 On 20.02.2020 20:07, Michael Terrell wrote:   >> More photos of the unit are in the same directory.   > The manual is for the A version, not your unit.I cant find a non 'A' manual for the 1741, 1751 or 1761. which are related series. What is the serial number? It can help show where it was built. You might join Tekscopes at Groups.io to see if anyone can help.   > https://groups.io/g/TekScopes   The serial number for my unit is B023287. Sorry for the late reply, i had to do some work here and there. I'll be sure to look at that groups.io thing.

Michael Terrell <terrell.michael.a@gmail.com>: Feb 22 05:27PM -0800 On Saturday, February 22, 2020 at 6:04:09 PM UTC-5, Nife Sima wrote:   > The serial number for my unit is B023287. Sorry for the late reply, I > had to do some work here and there. I'll be sure to look at that > groups.io thing.   The B prefix is Beaverton, so it was built in the United States. The 1720 is about the same vintage, it might help you.   groups.io is the replacement for Yahoo Groups. They were migrated to groups .io, along with all the old messages and files. The HP group was moved there, as well.

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