| David Lesher <wb8foz@panix.com>: Feb 24 04:14AM Besides the NEC violation, the other reason not to share the fridge circuit is when/if the toaster/mixer/whatever trips it, and you do not notice, you get was-frozen food. -- A host is a host from coast to coast.................wb8foz@nrk.com & no one will talk to a host that's close.......................... Unless the host (that isn't close).........................pob 1433 is busy, hung or dead....................................20915-1433 |
| "pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Feb 24 06:38AM -0800 In general, the best means of deciding how much current a device takes is a peak-holding watt/hour meter. Various devices may be purchased at your local Big-Box, Amazon and any number of other outlets.\ Such devices are also good for discovering real or pending problems with appliances and any number of other items around the house. Why speculate when good data is readily available? Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA |
| Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Feb 24 09:13AM -0600 > Why speculate when good data is readily available? Because this is Usenet. The standard rules of engagement are to take something simple, blow it all out of proportion, then continue to beat it like a dead horse with wild speculation. -- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com |
| amdx <nojunk@knology.net>: Feb 24 10:37AM -0600 On 1/12/2020 10:47 PM, Tom Del Rosso wrote: > to be on one breaker. I say so because there is a 3 volt drop on any > outlet when the toaster oven draws 9 amps. In another room it drops > 100mv or less. I'd have a little concern about that 3v drop. It could be just a long run of wire, (I doubt it) or a poor connection somewhere between, starting at the box and going to the outlet. Warning I once connected several freezers to an outlet, in an outdoor porch. It was fine for years and then one day a got a burning smell. Tried and tried to sniff it out, but it went a way. A couple days later I smelled it again. I traced behind a TV, I grabbed the TV plug and it was very hot. I moved everything out, removed a panel from the wall. Upon inspection the the outlet crumbled to pieces. The wire from the Circuit breaker box terminated at the outlet, then another wire was connected to the box that went to the outdoor outlet. A poor connection to the box, heated up every time the freezers ran. I was lucky it didn't start a fire. I installed 220v to a sub box and divided that for my freezers after that. Mikek |
| All Bumbed Up <allbummedup@cao.net>: Feb 23 09:32PM -0500 > Don't ya just love it? Yea, car won't start - whats wrong? lol > OTOH, maybe the op is a 10 yo kid just beginning to learn the ways of the world...still, a little effort such a throwing some keywords on Google would go a long way and show some initiative. It amazes me how lazy people are. > j You and your partner were quick to criticize and show sarcasm, but did it ever occur that I already googled it, many, many times over the last few weeks in fact? My original error was noted, but I understand the Radio Shack unit is similar but I challenge either one of you to find a service manual online somewhere for free for either one! Even the closest paid one I could find for the Radio Shack unit was only a "partial" and I have no idea what that could mean. Yes, some folks are lazy, but not this folk. Try finding it yourselves if you dare. |
| "pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Feb 24 08:32AM -0800 This is usenet. Clearly it is not sufficient that I must be right in my opinions and advice, but it is also necessary that you must be wrong in yours. Using the 'car won't start' analogy, the question asked was: Does anyone here know of a handy source of Chevrolet manuals anywhere on the internet? That is a pretty generic question requiring no mind-reading whatsoever. Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA |
| Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Feb 23 09:53AM -0800 On Sun, 23 Feb 2020 09:03:23 -0500, micky >Reception at a remote TV** has degraded and I thought maybe a splitter >connection had gotten bad, even though they are all indoors. Wild guess: Look for mouse or rat eaten coax cable. Not so wild guess: Look for badly installed (loose) crimp type F-connectors. >And my question is, 90db!!! I'd think it was a typo, but there's a >picture of it and it says it in big letters. This is loss, right? >Typical loss is 3.5db. With 90db loss, there's be almost nothing left. 90 dB might be the isolation between ports. The typical loss is 3.5dB per port. >Is this meant to fool suckers? Even if this were meant to fool suckers, >would anyone even make a splitter with 90db loss? (It also says 2.4GHz) It's easier to attribute such screwups to sloppiness than to intentional fraud. >(It also says this, twice in a row: "With this splitter being capable of >frequencies up to 2GHz, there's no need to worry about signal loss or >degradation of runs up to 100 ft.") That's pure balony. There little difference in loss between different flavors of 2 port splitters that would have any effect on coax cable loss. Also, 100ft of RG-6/u has a loss of about 10dB. >Also, I've thought about replacing the first amplifier too. What amplfier? >and unspecified. Because of the splitter above, I'm suspeciaous that >36db might be phoney and actually no more than 20db. I can find the >links if you want them. Find the maker, model, and links if you want a sanity check on the specs. > |--- 2 tvs in a row. Good reception at all 6 tv's except the >2nd one in this string. >**a splitter to 1 tv and an amp to all the others. Sorry, but I can't decode your drawing or where you put the amplifier. Make a sketch and post it to one of the public image sites. Ignoring the amp, splitting the power between 6 loads is a 7.8dB loss. Add another 0.5dB loss per port, and you have a 8.3dB loss for each port. That's quite a bit of loss and might cause problems if your TV has a sensitivity problem. Hard to tell from here without signal levels and measurements. >This had all been working fine for over 30 years. That's what they all say. "It was working great until something happened" or something like that is the usual intro. Past performance is not an indicator of future results. Incidentally, some coax cable dielectric does tend to deteriorate after 30 years. If you're using RG-59/u for your coax, think about replacing all of it with RG-6/u. >The problem tv >started giving problems a few years ago. Changing the tv didn't help. >(All but one are 14" CRT tvs.) Try temporarily moving one of the working TV's in place of the non-working TV. If that works, the TV is sick. If it looks the same, the cable, splitters, amp, coax, or connectors might be the problem. Also, unterminated ports can cause weird problems. If you have any, plug them with 75 ohm terminations. Also, try moving the problem TV closer to the "DVDR" (whatever that might be), removing the cables and splitter from the equation. If that works, look for something broken between the DVDR and where the TV was originally located. >Back to splitters, >1) Any reason to buy a gold-plated splitter? No. The difference in surface conductivity beween the various metals and gold will not produce any visible (or easily measurable) difference. >Outdoor use? Gold might help prevent corrosion, if it were thick and pure enough. Instead, look for a splitter that is totally sealed waterproof. Shove a paper clip into the center of the 3 F-connectors. If it stops, the hole is plugged and water won't get in. If the paper clip goes in past the connector, water will be a problem. Also, put some effort into making your installation look semi-professional and use drip loops for anything you don't want to get soaked in water. <https://www.google.com/search?q=splitter+drip+loop&tbm=isch> >2) Besides the extra $2 charge, is there any reason to NOT buy a >power-passing splitter if I'm not sending any power? Why do you need a splitter that will pass DC? Are you powering any amplifiers through the splitter? If so, you'll need the DC pass. If not, you can use a DC pass splitter, but the DC pass doesn't do anything beneficial to the RF. Notice that it's really easy to buy crap splitters: <http://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/crud/CATV-splitters.jpg> <http://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/crud/CATV-splitter.png> -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
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