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etpm@whidbey.com: May 03 01:39PM -0700 On Sat, 02 May 2020 19:20:39 +0100, Baron <baron@linuxmaniac.net> wrote:   >I don't know what fridge stats cost over there but they are only about >£10 for a universal one. They also come with a selection of knobs >just in case your original one doesn't fit. Since I already have a nice digital controller I won't be needing to buy one. But thanks anyway. Eric

etpm@whidbey.com: May 03 01:40PM -0700 >>exact temp that I can substitute for the thermostat assembly.   >Make sure you don't set the temperature range too tight. You don't >want the compressor to turn on and off too frequently. So what should the hysteresis be? and suggestions? Thanks, Eric

Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: May 03 04:36PM -0500 > So what should the hysteresis be? and suggestions? > Thanks, > Eric   Says for the fridge it should be between 35 and 40F. So, I'd say a 5F hysteresis. Also suggested 0F for the freezer, but didn't give a range. So, I'd say +/- 2.5F     -- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com

etpm@whidbey.com: May 04 08:15AM -0700 On Sun, 3 May 2020 16:36:37 -0500, Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net> wrote:   >5F hysteresis. >Also suggested 0F for the freezer, but didn't give a range. So, I'd say >+/- 2.5F Thanks for that Jeff. Since this is a mini fridge there is only one compartment, so I can't set more than one temp. Makes life easy. Eric

vjp2.at@at.BioStrategist.dot.dot.com: May 04 02:07PM I have problems with a shrink wrapped unprinted pack of CDs. The drive read and writes other CDs, includin an older pack of 3.5" I know I wrote to these with an earlier (replaced) drive and I have problems with these CDs on computers that are not mine. But since I have occasionally succeded, I ask if it is something I did? Like writing speed?     - = - Vasos Panagiotopoulos, Columbia'81+, Reagan, Mozart, Pindus blog: panix.com/~vjp2/ruminatn.htm - = - web: panix.com/~vjp2/vasos.htm facebook.com/vasjpan2 - linkedin.com/in/vasjpan02 - biostrategist.com ---{Nothing herein constitutes advice. Everything fully disclaimed.}---

Allodoxaphobia <trepidation@example.net>: May 04 02:53PM > with an earlier (replaced) drive and I have problems with these CDs on > computers that are not mine. But since I have occasionally succeded, I ask if > it is something I did? Like writing speed?   FWIW, for many years now, I've had a habit of always cutting the proposed writing speed in half. Haste make waste -- and coffee coasters.   You did not state whether the CD device physically does not accept the 3.5" CDs, or if the CD write went to finsh and the results were useless.   Jonesy -- Marvin L Jones | Marvin | W3DHJ.net | linux 38.238N 104.547W | @ jonz.net | Jonesy | FreeBSD * Killfiling google & XXXXbanter.com: jonz.net/ng.htm

Cydrome Leader <presence@MUNGEpanix.com>: May 03 08:47PM > Got these resistors. My dude picked them up somewhere, 1K ?? watt Dales. Little brown things.   > The ALL read like 1.001K, some 1.002. So that is why the were cheap. Well actually I can live with that.   What tolerate were these? From the armchair perspective, the lack of 1.000k sounds like those were binned out and sold as tigher tolerace.     > So I am holding the lighter and we are both watching the Fluke. After a bit the resistor caught o fire.   > That MFer still read 1.001K.   > "I think it passed".   What are some other real life tests folks use to qualify components outside of the standard boring stuff on a datasheet? For example an assembled board can pass all tests, but still have terrible solder quality and to my knowledge there isn't really a scoring or rating system for the quality of final assembly.   Does anybody tug on leads anymore, or bend them to see if they break or still solder? How often are there "surprise" lots of components that completely suck?

jjhudak4@gmail.com: May 03 11:34AM -0700 > From what I could tell on the scope the output to the Peltier module was fairly smooth DC voltage that is (my guess) a LPF PWM output to a power transistor (MOSFET?) from the microcontroller The markings on the chip were unreadable due to some clear coat that was put on the chip. A lot of speculation here since I could not read a lot of the component markings. My googlefu failed to turn up anything about the components, although the PS looks like it is an off the shelf module from somewhere.   > Next step is to get the replacement Peltier module, perhaps upgrade the thermal silicon grease, and reassemble. > J   Last follow-up on my repair. The Peltier module I got from Amazon seller did not conform to the general rule that the 'hot side' is the side that has the p/n printed on it. Mine was opposite, which I did not find out until I had the unit reassembled and tried it. The module broke when I tried to remove it - the thermal grease made it very difficult to remove. Ordered a second module. When I got the replacement, I tried it before putting the thermal grease on it and assembling it. I connected the red wire of the Peltier module to the '+V out' on the controller board, and the black wire of the module to the '-V out' on the controller. Powered up the unit and started a cycle. The first thing that is suppose to happen is a heating phase (default time of 8 hrs but is configurable) followed by a cooling phase. I started a cycle, felt the module for the heat side, and then mounted that head side against the thermal plate on the 'container side' of the unit. The voltage sent to the Peltier module is 12 VDC. A quick check of the control module is to start a cycle and measure the voltage. at the +Vout and -Vout pins. Once the heating/cooling side was determined, I reassembled the unit. A word of caution: the massive heat sink in the 'bottom half' of the unit is held in by four machine screws. ( this heat sink comes into play when the unit goes to a cooling phase and changes polarity on the Peltier module). The machine screws had silicon rubber spread on top of them, presumably to deter any repair. You will have to scrape it out of the fillips screw heads to get a bite with a screw driver. Once out, the rest can be removed with a wire brush. The heat sink has rubber spacers on each end of the heat sink. Do not remove these. When reassembling, do not overtighten the screws when installing the heat sink. Try to remember how 'loose' they were when you removed them and tighten them to about the same level. I made mine snug to the point that there was just a little resistance from the rubber spacers. If the screws are overtightened, it could crack/damage the module. A good application of thermal grease here is important.   I got the replacements from seller on Amazon and prices range from ~$2/part to ~12/part. Comments for any of the parts ranged from good to junk...no matter what the price. I paid $6. I called Laird who makes TEC modules and they have a cross that sells for $32 at mouser. I decided to try the $6 part and see what happens. If it dies, I may go for the expensive one but Cuisenart will replace the unit for $25+10 ship so it probably isn't worth the effort and cost. YMMV. I didn't see any obvious design or implementation flubs (that I could easily correct). I do question why the metal block to the yogurt well was over 1 inch long.   Hope this info helps someone. J

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