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3daral3@gmail.com: May 04 12:21PM -0700 On Tuesday, January 11, 2011 at 2:31:52 PM UTC-5, Meat Plow wrote:   > Discuss.   > -- > Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse   I've had this HT apart a half dozen times to clean the contacts and buttons. It seemed each time the cleaning effort worked for less than the previous time. This last time was desperate. I put a tiny piece of copper foil on the bottom of the rubber button, held in place by a drop of Elmer's glue. So far, it's working well. KB1KXJ

HW <none@no.no>: May 04 11:32PM +0200 >clean the contacts and buttons. It seemed each time the cleaning effort worked for less than the previous time.   Yes, that's the way it works. Every time you clean them, you remove some more of the conductive coating.   They sell small conductive rubber pads intended to be glued onto the existing pads. I have never tried them, though. Using metal might be hard on the contacts.

Allodoxaphobia <trepidation@example.net>: May 05 04:19PM On Mon, 04 May 2020 23:32:17 +0200, HW wrote:   > They sell small conductive rubber pads intended to be glued onto the > existing pads. I have never tried them, though. Using metal might be > hard on the contacts.   Do "they" even sell "conductive paint" to repair rear window defoggers anymore? They came viz a little finger nail polish bottle and brush. I came across an old, dried up bottle of the stuff in the back of one of my junque drawers recently...   Jonesy -- Marvin L Jones | Marvin | W3DHJ.net | linux 38.238N 104.547W | @ jonz.net | Jonesy | FreeBSD * Killfiling google & XXXXbanter.com: jonz.net/ng.htm

"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: May 04 03:43PM -0700 This has probably been asked-and-answered before, but:   I am looking for multi-section "empties" - that would be the can and the phenolic wafer - so I can stuff them myself without the cutting-and-gutting otherwise necessary.   Anyone aware of a source?   Thanks in advance!   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

amdx <nojunk@knology.net>: May 05 06:19AM -0500 > Thanks in advance!   > Peter Wieck > Melrose Park, PA   Are you asking for the parts to build a multi section air variable capacitor? Mikek

"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: May 05 04:25AM -0700 Mikek:   I am looking for the can and phenolic wafer to stuff my own multi-section electrolytic caps.   Thanks!   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

Tim Schwartz <tim@bristolnj.com>: May 05 08:36AM -0400 Hi there,   I recently came across these:   https://www.ebay.com/itm/Multi-section-capacitor-mounting-plate-and-PCB/193267945734   on e-Bay and ordered a few that have not arrived yet. In my case I've got a 4 section cap: 330-100-100-100 all at 75 volts, Oh, and the case is POSITIVE as it is for the bias supply in the amp.   Both my customer and I are OK with the look of it, and soon I'll see if it works. I like that they have the option of grounding to the chassis or not.   Best regards, Tim Schwartz Bristol Electronics

John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: May 05 07:48AM -0700 On Tuesday, May 5, 2020 at 8:35:59 AM UTC-4, Tim Schwartz wrote:   > Best regards, > Tim Schwartz > Bristol Electronics   Those are handy, but don't provide the "look" of the original can.   I restuff all the can electros I run across - not for originality as much as for maintaining the original layout. Some folks leave the cans in place, disconnect the wiring, and add terminals to the bottom. This takes up a lot of room.   I restored a 1951 Andrea TV a few months ago and restuffed all the cans. I believe there were 7, maybe 8. Adding terminal strips and two to four more caps to replace each can would have been a nightmare to the guy in 50 years who wants to repair or restore this TV again. Since this model was covered by Sams, the bottom of the Andrea still looks like the photofact pics.   If I had to, I'd use the wafer you linked and try to use a plastic or cardboard tube over the caps just to make them look at least a little vintage.

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: May 05 08:38AM -0700 On Tue, 5 May 2020 04:25:57 -0700 (PDT), "pfjw@aol.com"   >I am looking for the can and phenolic wafer to stuff my own multi-section electrolytic caps.   <https://www.tubesandmore.com/products/capacitors?filters=Type=Multi-Section%20/%20Can%20Type&sort=price_low_to_high&page=>   -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: May 05 08:57AM -0700 On Tue, 05 May 2020 08:38:52 -0700, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote:   ><peterwieck33@gmail.com> wrote:   >>I am looking for the can and phenolic wafer to stuff my own multi-section electrolytic caps.   ><https://www.tubesandmore.com/products/capacitors?filters=Type=Multi-Section%20/%20Can%20Type&sort=price_low_to_high&page=>   I didn't have any luck finding aluminum cans or shells. The first few photos might be worth following: <https://www.google.com/search?q=aluminum+electrolytic+capacitor+shell+can&tbm=isch> The sources seem to be only in China or India and only sell in large quantities. The few capacitor rebuilds I've done were all in the original can. Good luck.         -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

HW <none@no.no>: May 04 11:24PM +0200 >So what should the hysteresis be? and suggestions?   If you can find the specs for the original thermostat, that would be a good starting point.   I have retrofitted a digital thermostat to my kitchen fridge. After a lot of googling and experimentation, I ended up with the "on" temperature at +4 C, and the "off" temperature at -17 C or so. The sensor is attached to the evaporator in the back of the fridge, so the air will not reach -17 C, of course.   Your fridge will be different. You will have to experiment. The lower temperature needs to be set quite precisely, since the temperature drops quite quickly at first, but very slowly towards the end of the cycle.   Also, remember that the cycle time will be faster with an empty fridge, compared to when it is fully loaded.

dplatt@coop.radagast.org (Dave Platt): May 04 11:24AM -0700 In article <r8p7id$dqr$1@reader2.panix.com>, >with an earlier (replaced) drive and I have problems with these CDs on >computers that are not mine. But since I have occasionally succeded, I ask if >it is something I did? Like writing speed?   Varying the burn speed may help... in some cases slower-is-better, in a few cases faster-is better.   Some newer drives (e.g. combo DVD/CD) don't do as well with CD-R burning as older drives... some new drives have an uncomfortably-high _lower_ limit on burn speed (e.g. 4x or even 8x) and won't give a good burn with some older media that requires a long burn exposure.   It's possible that the discs you've gotten are simply poor-quality or defective, or have deteriorated in storage. If I recall correctly, some of the CD-R dyes can deteriorate over a period of a few years and won't burn well... especially if the CDs have been stored in poor conditions (too much heat, direct sunlight exposure, etc.). And, some off-label CD-R manufacturers make products that are best used as Christmas-tree decorations.   Some CD-R software (e.g. cdrecord/wodim on Linux) can read the blank-disc information that's encoded in the pre-groove wobble (the "ATIP" data) and print out a description of what it finds... actual manufacturer, recommended and acceptable burning speeds, and so forth.   A good drive will read the ATIP data, and then adjust its burning parameters (laser exposure time, burning speed) to what it finds there. A good drive will also do a real-time burning-power test before it starts recording the real data, and optimize the "burn" accordingly.   Also, check the center hub of the disc blanks to see if there's any plastic "flashing" or burring around the hole. If the opening isn't smooth, the debris can prevent the disc from sitting flat on the drive spindle, and it will "wobble" as it spins. This will make it harder for the laser focus electronics to keep the laser spot tightly focused on the dye layer, and can increase the bit-error rate.

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