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amdx <nojunk@knology.net>: May 06 05:20AM -0500 For those interested in bonding polypropylene.     > https://www.adhesivesmag.com/articles/97665-polyurethane-adhesive-for-untreated-polypropylene   Mikek

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: May 06 08:57AM -0700 >For those interested in bonding polypropylene. >> https://www.adhesivesmag.com/articles/97665-polyurethane-adhesive-for-untreated-polypropylene > Mikek   For those into something more mundane for polypropylene: <https://www.loctiteproducts.com/en/products/fix/super-glue/loctite_plasticsbondingsystem.html> "The activator primes hard-to-bond surfaces such as polypropylene and polyethylene"   <https://dm.henkel-dam.com/is/content/henkel/TDS-681925-US-Loctite-Plastics-Bonding-System-Carded-4-ml-2-g-2016-08-26pdf> Cyanoacrylate adhesive with Heptane solvent for surface preparation (activator). I'm rather surprised that it works as most surface activators (used to increase surface energy and therefore chemical reactivity of low energy plastics) require elevated temperatures.   One big problem for me has been shelf life. I bought a few tubes of the stuff from a local hardware store, only to find that it was near the end of its shelf life. It died in the tube (unopened) a few months later: Shelf Life. From date of manufacture (unopened): 30 months Stored at 36-46°F 18 months Stored at 68°F   I suggest you check the self destruct date when buying:   Lot Code Explanation: #YDDDX Printed on crimped end on tube # = Disregard Y = Last digit of year of manufacture DDD = Day of manufacture based on 365 days in a year X = Disregard Example: 6061 = 61st day of 2016 = March 2, 2016   <https://www.homedepot.com/p/Loctite-Plastics-Bonding-System-2g-Super-Glue-681925/100371829>             -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

cameronsimpson5436@gmail.com: May 06 08:24AM -0700 > Solution Manual Introduction to Linear Circuit Analysis and Modelling : From DC to RF (Luis Moura & Izzat Darwazeh) > Solution Manual Embedded Systems Architecture : A Comprehensive Guide for Engineers and Programmers (Tammy Noergaard) > Solution Manual Bioimpedance and Bioel   Hi   Send me the following solution manuals Solution Manual Electronics : A Systems Approach (4th Ed., Neil Storey) Solution Manual Electronics : A Systems Approach (5th Ed., Neil Storey)   Thank you

vjp2.at@at.BioStrategist.dot.dot.com: May 06 12:43PM [Why do I ask any other newsgroup? You folks are GREAT! Thanks.]   The drives I have used are always drawer-like.   I've considered the discs may have deteriorated because they are shrink wrapped and both the discs and wrap might emit fumes.   In some machines that weren't mine, it helped to keep trying. Also to open the disc in explorer like I am reading it and then go into writing.   I may just have to give up. It just seems like a waste to write a big CD for small amounts of data. Thanks.     - = - Vasos Panagiotopoulos, Columbia'81+, Reagan, Mozart, Pindus blog: panix.com/~vjp2/ruminatn.htm - = - web: panix.com/~vjp2/vasos.htm facebook.com/vasjpan2 - linkedin.com/in/vasjpan02 - biostrategist.com ---{Nothing herein constitutes advice. Everything fully disclaimed.}---

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: May 05 09:23PM -0700 Jeff Urban is a Loon wrote:   ======================================   > Got these resistors. My dude picked them up somewhere, 1K ¼ watt Dales. Little brown things.     ** LOL !     > The ALL read like 1.001K, some 1.002. So that is why the were cheap.     ** ROTFLMAO !!!!!!!   Those are 0.1% tolerance parts.   Any error is in your METER !!!     > Well actually I can live with that.   ** You on drugs?   > Anyway, our "quality control" testing included, after a few pints and tokes,   **Question answered.   a thermal characteristic test. Taking an average specimen and clipping it to the measuring device was adequate and then I put my butane lighter under it. Now I figure a Zippo is less suitable for this because of it having more hydrocarbons in the flue.   ** You are joking ?   Aren't you ?   This Loon is straight from the Loonie bin.         ..... Phil

John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: May 05 09:50AM -0700 > Thanks!   > Peter Wieck > Melrose Park, PA     If you're not trying to exactly duplicate an original can, you can always use 1.25" PVC pipe which will be just a wee larger OD than the original standard size can. Cut it to fit, place it on end over wax paper, fill will *long* set epoxy to form a cap at the end, then sand and paint a flat silver.   Hot glue or fast epoxy the PVC "can" down over the new caps on the wafer linked elsewhere in this thread. It won't look exactly like the original can but it will be better than using exposed modern electros on the new wafer.

Andy Burns <usenet@andyburns.uk>: May 05 05:51PM +0100 > that would be the can and the phenolic wafer   are you going into production of fake capacitors :-P   <http://www.1000uf.com/ipaware/img/fake%20capacitor.jpg>

"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: May 05 12:23PM -0700 On Tuesday, May 5, 2020 at 12:51:07 PM UTC-4, Andy Burns wrote:   > > that would be the can and the phenolic wafer   > are you going into production of fake capacitors :-P   > <http://www.1000uf.com/ipaware/img/fake%20capacitor.jpg>   Uh, no. I am hoping to find a simple kit to do a passable replacement. Failing that, I will simply purchase the mounting plates and leave the individual caps exposed. Thanks, all for the various pointers. I have found the usual suspects on my own, and I do own a large tubing cutter, and so forth. But, I was hoping that someone out there made 'empties' as a kit.   Thanks again!   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: May 05 03:18PM -0700 On 2020/05/05 9:51 a.m., Andy Burns wrote:   >> that would be the can and the phenolic wafer   > are you going into production of fake capacitors :-P   > <http://www.1000uf.com/ipaware/img/fake%20capacitor.jpg>   Nice job! Can says 6800MFD/50VDC and the cap inside is 2200MFD35VDC...someone is going to get a nice surprise!   John ;-#)#   -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3 (604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

Michael Terrell <terrell.michael.a@gmail.com>: May 05 05:05PM -0700 On Tuesday, May 5, 2020 at 3:23:41 PM UTC-4, Peter wrote:   > > <http://www.1000uf.com/ipaware/img/fake%20capacitor.jpg>   > Uh, no. I am hoping to find a simple kit to do a passable replacement. Failing that, I will simply purchase the mounting plates and leave the individual caps exposed. Thanks, all for the various pointers. I have found the usual suspects on my own, and I do own a large tubing cutter, and so forth. But, I was hoping that someone out there made 'empties' as a kit.   > Thanks again!     How about these cans?   https://catalog.zerocases.com/item/deep-drawn-round-cans-covers/round-deep-drawn-cans/zmc-137

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: May 05 10:55AM -0700 On 2020/05/05 9:19 a.m., Allodoxaphobia wrote: > I came across an old, dried up bottle of the stuff in the back of one > of my junque drawers recently...   > Jonesy   As far as I know the product for repairing window heater strips is still available.   https://www.familyhandyman.com/automotive/car-window-repair/repair-a-rear-window-defogger/   However I do recall there was an MG Chemicals product for restoring conductive pads:   https://www.mgchemicals.com/products/prototyping-and-circuit-repair/conductive-pens/838ar-p-carbon-conductive-pen   or   https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-8339-Repairs-Controls/dp/B0081SGM8M   Which is not listed at MG Chemicals, perhaps obsolete?   John :-#)#     -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3 (604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

dplatt@coop.radagast.org (Dave Platt): May 05 11:51AM -0700 In article <tbGdndy2fsg4NSzDnZ2dnUU7-d_NnZ2d@giganews.com>,   >or   >https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-8339-Repairs-Controls/dp/B0081SGM8M   >Which is not listed at MG Chemicals, perhaps obsolete?   I've had some luck restoring conductive-rubber pads using a conductive dry lubricant called NeoLube No. 2. It's a graphite suspension in isopropyl alcohol, with a small amount of a binder. Clean the back of the rubber pad (possibly even roughen it a bit with very fine sandpaper), then paint it on and let it dry.   It's available from Micro-Mark and other online vendors.

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