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John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Jun 01 12:07PM -0700 I have an old customer who has a 32" Panasonic CRT HD TV he wants to keep. He bought a Roku and discovered the TV doesn't have an HDMI input. I told him to pick up an Component to HDMI converter from Amazon and an HDMI and component cable. He called and said he couldn't get it to work, so I took the ride to his town and brought component cables, HDMI cables, and a blu ray player.   Sure enough, there's no picture. When I plug my Blu Ray into the TV via component jacks, it has picture and sound so the component jacks are working as is the HD section of the TV. When I tried connecting the blu ray player through the HDMI adapter, it had sound but no picture, so neither the blu ray nor Roku was working through the adapter. I thought the adapter was bad but took it back to my shop to try and was surprised to find it works on a newer Samsung.   Is it possible the older Panasonic could get a blu ray HD through the component jacks but not work with an HDMI to component adapter?

Mike S <mscir@yahoo.com>: Jun 01 07:40PM -0700 On 6/1/2020 12:07 PM, John-Del wrote: > I have an old customer who has a 32" Panasonic CRT HD TV he wants to keep. He bought a Roku and discovered the TV doesn't have an HDMI input. I told him to pick up an Component to HDMI converter from Amazon and an HDMI and component cable. He called and said he couldn't get it to work, so I took the ride to his town and brought component cables, HDMI cables, and a blu ray player.   > Sure enough, there's no picture. When I plug my Blu Ray into the TV via component jacks, it has picture and sound so the component jacks are working as is the HD section of the TV. When I tried connecting the blu ray player through the HDMI adapter, it had sound but no picture, so neither the blu ray nor Roku was working through the adapter. I thought the adapter was bad but took it back to my shop to try and was surprised to find it works on a newer Samsung.   > Is it possible the older Panasonic could get a blu ray HD through the component jacks but not work with an HDMI to component adapter?   Is it possible the component to HDMI converter have a max resolution that the player is exceeding?

bilou <bilou@sfr.fr>: Jun 02 09:03AM +0200 On 01/06/2020 21:07, John-Del wrote: > I told him to pick up an Component to HDMI converter from Amazon   If the TV has no HDMI input a component to HDMI converter is exactly the opposite of what could be expected to work.

bje@ripco.com: Jun 02 10:35AM > Is it possible the older Panasonic could get a blu ray HD through the > component jacks but not work with an HDMI to component adapter?   What about HDCP getting in the way?   I think when a output device (the player or Roku) is hooked up to a monitor, there is a bunch of handshaking going on via the HDMI port between the two.   If the HDCP isn't satisfied the display is compliant, the video blanks on the device.   The component is analog, so either doesn't care.   I know that there is a "black box" fix, rather than a cable, there is a box that mimics the HDCP handshaking with the HDMI. Usually has some dip switches to set for the monitors max resolution.   I haven't seen one in 5 or 6 years but I'd guess amazon or ebay may be your freind. Sort of a fringe product.   Personally I'd give the guy a clue stick and just replace the set. A 32" flat screen is $100 or less these days.   -bruce bje@ripco.com

John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Jun 02 04:22AM -0700 On Tuesday, June 2, 2020 at 3:03:43 AM UTC-4, bilou wrote: > > I told him to pick up an Component to HDMI converter from Amazon   > If the TV has no HDMI input a component to HDMI converter is exactly the > opposite of what could be expected to work.     Well, yeah.. an HDMI to component converter was what I was inaccurately describing. Fox got me good, but he did it by email... He's now out of my will but I don't think that's actually a punishment at all. I think I'll send him some nudes of Rosie O'Donnell..

John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Jun 02 04:41AM -0700 > If the HDCP isn't satisfied the display is compliant, the video blanks on > the device.   > The component is analog, so either doesn't care.       But that's why it's weird. My blu ray DVD plays HD through his Panasonic's component jacks directly. I would think the problem would have been between the HDMI source (either the blu ray or Roku device) and the adapter, except that the same blu ray player worked with the same HDMI to component adapter on a bit newer TV back at my shop.       > flat screen is $100 or less these days.   > -bruce > bje@ripco.com   That's true, but a 32" 4:3 is much larger than a 32" 16:9, but he has several flats in his house elsewhere that have given him a lot more trouble than his Panasonic CRT, which has never had a single problem and, well, he likes it. I also think it cost something like $1800 when he bought it. Older people don't like disposable.   In addition, a $100 32" TV has a lifespan measured in hundreds of hours.   I'm going to try a different brand of HDMI to component adapter and see if it works for him.   Thanks.

Tim R <timothy42b@aol.com>: Jun 02 06:48AM -0700 Might there be a simpler answer?   don't most DVD players have an HDMI input somewhere and component output?   If you could find one like that, you'd probably be out less money than buying the converter, and you'd have the advantage of being able to play videos through your CRT.   Or, is there a chance that a Firestick would work where a Roku doesn't?

John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Jun 02 07:09AM -0700 On Tuesday, June 2, 2020 at 9:48:14 AM UTC-4, Tim R wrote: > Might there be a simpler answer?   > don't most DVD players have an HDMI input somewhere and component output?   > If you could find one like that, you'd probably be out less money than buying the converter, and you'd have the advantage of being able to play videos through your CRT.   The adapter was like $25 from Amazon from what he told me. And I don't know of any DVD players that have an HDMI input.       > Or, is there a chance that a Firestick would work where a Roku doesn't?   Possibly. I have two Firesticks - when I go back with another adapter, I'll bring a Firestick to try. Still, the blu ray connected fine to the TV via the components inputs, but the blu ray also refused to work with the adapter through the HDMI in the same way as the Roku. Makes no sense. I'll pick up different adapter than he has and try it.

abrsvc <dansabrservices@yahoo.com>: Jun 02 08:14AM -0700 On Tuesday, June 2, 2020 at 10:09:30 AM UTC-4, John-Del wrote:   > > Or, is there a chance that a Firestick would work where a Roku doesn't?   > Possibly. I have two Firesticks - when I go back with another adapter, I'll bring a Firestick to try. Still, the blu ray connected fine to the TV via the components inputs, but the blu ray also refused to work with the adapter through the HDMI in the same way as the Roku. Makes no sense. I'll pick up different adapter than he has and try it.   I would expect that the Bluray should work since the HDMI in this case is just an output. I would NOT expect the Roku to work since this requires the conversation to work and the adapter won't allow for that. If the Panasonic Bluray still fails, it may be from the first generation that IRRC required HDMI-HDMI connections only.

Julius Henry Marx <sawbona@gmx.net>: Jun 02 06:04AM -0700 On Sunday, May 31, 2020 at 5:48:51 PM UTC-3, Julius Henry Marx wrote:   > ... *already* have a couple of Sun Microsystem power supplies ... > ... not found a way to actually *start* them ...   While waitng for delivery for the Astec AA21430 subject of the OP, I decided to pull one of the Sun PSs from the bin to have another look.   It is a Japanese made 360W FDK PEX737-40 from a Storedge D2, really impressive hardware.   After a closer inspection and some further web searching, I've found that it seems to be very much an ATX design with some minor differences, which makes sense.   How did that detail escape me when I got it?   I found a post on-line that said shorting green and blue turned on the system, which it did but I did not try shorting it to ground, just in case.   The plug at the back of the slide-in box has 24 pins just like the usual male Molex 39-01-2240 (?) used for ATX MBs but with a different pinout.   Of the 24 pins, 10 are for power and 10 for GND:   10 x GND -> black 6 x +5V -> red ----> 5.11V to GND 3 x +12V -> orange ----> 12.29V to GND 1 x +12V -> yellow ----> 12.01V to GND   My guess is that the (red) +5V and the (orange) +12V are for the drives and the (yellow) +12V for a fan located in the main box, one for each redundant PS.   Being a storage box must be why there's no 3.3V, -12V or -5V in the connector and only one rail for each voltage as the same colour wires (red, orange) read 0.1 ohms between them.   The remaining 4 pins are as follows:   1 x green -> PS_ON ---> 5.07V to GND 1 x grey -> PG ---> 5.06V to GND 1 x blue -> ??? ---> 5.10V to GND 1 x brown -> ??? ---> 5.10V to GND   The PG pin to ground will give me a way to have a LED indicating this and the PS_ON is used to turn the unit on.   There is a manual reset 10A protection not accessible from the outside and a thermal protection on one of the heatsinks.   I expected to turn on the unit via PS_ON + GND (instead of the blue cable), which I will promptly try to check.   If it works, that will leave me without knowing what the blue and brown cabling has to be used for.   eg: which one is the remote sensing wire and which is +5VSB?   I'd be grateful for any input on this.   Thanks in advance. JHM

"Paul Hovnanian P.E." <paul@hovnanian.com>: Jun 01 08:17PM -0700 Given all this free time, I'm fixing stuff around the house.   I have a Brookstone Grill Alert. Stick a probe into a chunk of meat, plug the cable (2.5mm phone plug) into the box and it happily monitors my steak on the barbecue. Except it stopped working with unreasonably high readings (150F reading at room temp). Wisdom on the 'Net says that the probe is probably broken. But the replacement part (Brookstone) is no longer available. No problem. I'll plug my decade resistance box into the grill alert, start cranking in some resistance values and figure out the thermistor curve. Then find another probe.   It appears to expect an NTC thermistor with 180K ohms giving an 80 F reading and 60K ohms reading 125F. But then I pick up the old (broken?) probe and measure it. At room temp (65F) it has a 220K resistance. Holding the probe in my hands drops its resistance to 140K. Seems to be OK. I wiggle the cord, expecting an intermittent short (low resistance giving a high temp reading). Nope. It's fine. Maybe it's something wrong with the plug/jack interface. So I open the box, unsolder a lead from the jack and measure the probe resistance plugged in at the back of the jack. It reads 220K. Hook it all back up and it's still wonky (probe gives a 150F reading sitting on my desk). But if I plug my decade box in to the grill alert and dial it to 220K ohms, the thing reads room temp.   The Grill Alert appears to just not like that probe. What have I missed?   -- Paul Hovnanian mailto:Paul@Hovnanian.com ------------------------------------------------------------------ Not all those who wander are lost. Except for the 2nd Lt. He is lost as shit.

"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Jun 02 03:46AM -0700 My guesses, officially classified as S.W.A.G.:   a) Clean the battery compartment, and replace the battery with a fresh one. Analogy: An audio speaker has a resistance that may be measured by a VOM, but in use, it has impedance that varies by input frequency. Could it be that the probe does the same under actual use? If so, available current will be critical for accurate readings. And these things live in a harsh environment.   b) Cold-solder or a component is intermittent. Again, these things live in a harsh environment, and something could have worked loose. Fine when sitting nicely on a bench, not so fine in use.   c) Try the probe in a pot of water. Bring it gently to a boil. It will never get above 212F, but you should be able to follow the change in resistance as the water heats, and it should be as gradual as the heating. The difference between a test at fixed points, and a test of behavior over actual range-of-use conditions.   I would start with c) first, as it will be the most immediately revealing.   Best of luck with it!   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

Pimpom <nobody@nowhere.com>: Jun 02 12:19AM +0530 On 6/1/2020 3:30 AM, Lmm Cams wrote:   >>> https://datasheetspdf.com/pdf/627067/NEC/D882/1   >> Why an alternative? Digikey has almost 3000 in stock. > Cus I need it v soon and I live in France so that means a weeks delivery....   Phil's suggestion of a BD139 will work in many cases. A BD235/237/239 is a closer match for max ratings. http://www.datasheetarchive.com/pdf/download.php?id=a26a26a4ec0c9a5e895602089d7faef1b8cf35&type=M&term=BD235

Pimpom <nobody@nowhere.com>: Jun 02 12:22AM +0530 On 6/2/2020 12:19 AM, Pimpom wrote:   > Phil's suggestion of a BD139 will work in many cases. A > BD235/237/239 is a closer match for max ratings. > http://www.datasheetarchive.com/pdf/download.php?id=a26a26a4ec0c9a5e895602089d7faef1b8cf35&type=M&term=BD235   Oops. That should be BD233/235/237.

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Jun 01 06:20PM -0700 Pimpom wrote:   ===============       > Phil's suggestion of a BD139 will work in many cases. A > BD235/237/239 is a closer match for max ratings.   ** Not if you include Hfe and Ft - the BD139 is way closer then. As usual, the OP has no idea what parameters matter more and that he ought to reveal what the device is doing.     ..... Phil

Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Jun 01 09:43PM -0500 On 6/1/20 8:20 PM, Phil Allison wrote: > As usual, the OP has no idea what parameters matter more > and that he ought to reveal what the device is doing.   Aw come on Phil. I would have thought by now, you'd have a bowl of mercury you can use for scrying to look at the hardware and into poster's minds.     -- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Jun 01 09:08PM -0700 Fox's Mercantile Idiot wrote:   ============================   > Aw come on Phil. I would have thought by now, you'd have > a bowl of mercury you can use for scrying to look at the > hardware and into poster's minds.   ** Witchcraft is way more you line - Mr Lunatic.     .... Phil

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