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Tim R <timothy42b@aol.com>: Jun 02 10:34AM -0700 On Tuesday, June 2, 2020 at 10:09:30 AM UTC-4, John-Del wrote:   > The adapter was like $25 from Amazon from what he told me. And I don't know of any DVD players that have an HDMI input.   Maybe a small TV or computer monitor? Some have HDMI in and components out, I think. My cable box has a choice of HDMI or components out. I'm not sure what inputs. When I replaced our CRT with a flat screen I used the component cables as they were already in place. Later I discovered the slightly fuzzy picture was due to resolution mismatch and went to HDMI, the picture is much better now.   We were given a Fire Stick and it works better than our old Roku, but neither gets used much. -

Michael Terrell <terrell.michael.a@gmail.com>: Jun 03 01:01AM -0700 On Tuesday, June 2, 2020 at 7:22:33 AM UTC-4, John-Del wrote:   > > If the TV has no HDMI input a component to HDMI converter is exactly the > > opposite of what could be expected to work.   > Well, yeah.. an HDMI to component converter was what I was inaccurately describing. Fox got me good, but he did it by email... He's now out of my will but I don't think that's actually a punishment at all. I think I'll send him some nudes of Rosie O'Donnell..     Did you just admit to owing WMD?

Michael Terrell <terrell.michael.a@gmail.com>: Jun 03 01:13AM -0700 On Monday, June 1, 2020 at 3:07:11 PM UTC-4, John-Del wrote: > I have an old customer who has a 32" Panasonic CRT HD TV he wants to keep. He bought a Roku and discovered the TV doesn't have an HDMI input. I told him to pick up an Component to HDMI converter from Amazon and an HDMI and component cable. He called and said he couldn't get it to work, so I took the ride to his town and brought component cables, HDMI cables, and a blu ray player.   > Sure enough, there's no picture. When I plug my Blu Ray into the TV via component jacks, it has picture and sound so the component jacks are working as is the HD section of the TV. When I tried connecting the blu ray player through the HDMI adapter, it had sound but no picture, so neither the blu ray nor Roku was working through the adapter. I thought the adapter was bad but took it back to my shop to try and was surprised to find it works on a newer Samsung.   > Is it possible the older Panasonic could get a blu ray HD through the component jacks but not work with an HDMI to component adapter?   I use a Roku Express with a sevenn inch HDMI security monitor. They talk to each other, and they didn't work the first try. I had to have the LCD monitor on first, to get them to communicate. After that it has worked OK. If the monitor gets turned off, it will display a 'Do you want to continue watching ????' when it is turned back on. The Roku also has a menu setting to turn off a display or TV. This is the low end version, and I use it in my bedroom, next to my computer. It was bought at Best Buy about six months ago for $30. It only has a USB port for power, and a HDMI port. The OEM power supply is crap. It is too close to the actual current draw of the Roku, so I power it from my main computer. So far, it has worked well. It is on 24/7 to help mask my Tinnitus.

John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Jun 03 08:40AM -0700 On Wednesday, June 3, 2020 at 4:01:17 AM UTC-4, Michael Terrell wrote: > > > opposite of what could be expected to work.   > > Well, yeah.. an HDMI to component converter was what I was inaccurately describing. Fox got me good, but he did it by email... He's now out of my will but I don't think that's actually a punishment at all. I think I'll send him some nudes of Rosie O'Donnell..   > Did you just admit to owing WMD?   Well, the destruction would only be considered "mass" in the way it's deployed, no? If I send them to Jeff, it's a direct (and particularly nasty) assault certainly, but I think I'm OK as far as WMD go.

Julius Henry Marx <sawbona@gmx.net>: Jun 03 07:51AM -0700 Hello:   On Tuesday, June 2, 2020 at 10:04:56 AM UTC-3, Julius Henry Marx wrote:   > ... turn on the unit via PS_ON + GND (instead of the blue cable) ... I can confirm that shorting PS_ON + GND will *not* power up the unit. There's an immediate 'click' but no power-on.   I'd be grateful for any input on this. Thanks in advance. JHM

Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Jun 03 10:05AM -0500 On 6/3/20 9:51 AM, Julius Henry Marx wrote: > I can confirm that shorting PS_ON + GND will*not* power up the unit. > There's an immediate 'click' but no power-on.   > I'd be grateful for any input on this.   That's easy, fucking with a defective power supply isn't worth killing a mother board. Throw it in the trash.         -- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com

M Philbrook <jamie_ka1lpa@charter.net>: Jun 02 06:28PM -0400 In article <pk8obfl7garc5q68b3q9ebi40hcr5229un@4ax.com>, legg@nospam.magma.ca says... > at the processor/control area.   > Is it safe to bypass relay, to run up the power gradually?   > RL   I have no idea basically what you are talking about except maybe a power management circuit that isn't getting a watch dog trigger from the CPU ?   Normally those kinds of circuits requie some sort of feed back information to keep it alive...   I Suppose the proper thing to do is watch that feed back information to see if this is the case.   In some cases it could be a rather high speed pulse coming from a Digital timer or CPU. when that stops the circuit will time out and shut down..   I assume this is what you are referring to ?

whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com>: Jun 02 12:30PM -0700 On Monday, June 1, 2020 at 8:12:45 PM UTC-7, Paul Hovnanian P.E. wrote: > in my hands drops its resistance to 140K. Seems to be OK. I wiggle the cord, > expecting an intermittent short (low resistance giving a high temp reading). > Nope. It's fine.   It might be that there's some oscillation at the sense amplifier; the impedance of the probe wiring might be the issue.   If so, good news; that means it's not gonna need a new probe. Bad news, you have an oscillating consumer device to debug.

adrian@poppyrecords.invalid.invalid (Adrian Tuddenham): Jun 02 10:20PM +0100 > desk). But if I plug my decade box in to the grill alert and dial it to 220K > ohms, the thing reads room temp.   > The Grill Alert appears to just not like that probe. What have I missed?   Could it possibly be a semiconductor probe that uses the forward voltage drop of a diode?     -- ~ Adrian Tuddenham ~ (Remove the ".invalid"s and add ".co.uk" to reply) www.poppyrecords.co.uk

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