- Devices to fool the Power Meter - 3 Updates
- Flashing LED on old Quantum HDD PCB - 1 Update
- ADM-3A Wonky Until Warm - 1 Update
| Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Jun 21 03:06PM -0700 Cydrome Leader wrote: ------------------ > > ** That must seem like a very clever Q to you. > > But I am not biting. > Just sit back and take some notes then. ** LOL > It sounds like you're forgetting > some stuff. ** Wot a stupid fucking troll. Piss off. |
| Jeff Urban <jurb6006@gmail.com>: Jun 21 09:23PM -0700 >** Wot a stupid fucking troll. They are out there buddy. As much aas you may hate me I do not hatree you. In fact your harsh shit and all that reminds me of my family. Speaking of which, my Uncle and cousin gave it a try. He was a tech specialist at Big Blue, my cousin was definitely into it, an fact built his own stereo. So they had no gas, all electric house. They bought these huge ass rectifiers to put on the furnace to try to magnetise the poles in the meter. Now that I think of it, there is no way to know if it worked. They would have to have two meters and see if they read different. Now this Kill-a-watt thing, it goes against the laws of physics, I can see some things but not that. I even told you all about those generators, it took me a year to figure out how they work. Now just a box ? Well in audiophile land there is a box that is supposed to make almost any stereo sound better. Testimonials are enough to be considerable. But I figured it out. They use coils. The first coil takes the load off the amp at high frequencies, that makes it perform better. There is probably a little but of attenuation but it is tolerable I guess. It's not for me, blow your speakers with rock and roll. (that's a song, look it up) I want the most direct connection I can get. On my good speaker I got 12 gu. wire. But the thing is that I understand what this thing does and it is quite novel, but I do not want one. The best amp I got is totaled. I should send a picture, it had been in a fire and flood, the regulator board it broken in like four places. But I got it working and though it is not my most powerful amp it sounds the best. Rated 65 a channel it is built like amps with 200 a channel. Pioneer SX-850. The only things I heard better were Marantz and Kenwood, and very few Kenwoods. I want sound so sharp it cuts like a knife. So anyway, this power meter thing. There is not much cheating them. in the US the way it is set up you can flip your meter upside down and it will run backwards. But if they catch you it is a felony. Electricity is not the cheapest thing in the world, that is why we cook with gas. Electric cooking sucks anyway. So people might think that for an electric stove maybe some inductance. Nope. Sure that will lower the power consumption but power is what make the heat. Less power less heat. The point is nothing is free. Those generators, a million bucks, do you pay that much in electric bills in seven years ? Enough, this tangent is too much... |
| "pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Jun 22 05:35AM -0700 You two really deserve each other! But, please take it elsewhere. Otherwise, to paraphrase Beatrice Campbell, you *will* scare the horses. Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA |
| stsslr1@ix.netcom.com: Jun 21 11:39PM -0700 Thank you for this conversation and the hints. I have a Quantum drive that had sat for a few years and was giving me the 8+10 flashing. Giving it a tap got it to spin and allowed the BIOS to detect it. (although I think the drive is totally unreadable now - it had problems before but now will not even boot) |
| John Crane <john@localhost.net>: Jun 21 04:04PM -0500 On 06/19/2020 02:02 AM, Tom Lake wrote: > I have an ADM-3A dumb terminal and when I first turn it on the display is squashed and the top line is mangled. After five minutes or so the display looks OK but is a little jumpy. After a few more minutes, the display is rock-solid and stays that way until the next time I turn it on cold. If I turn it off back on, the display is still fine as long as I don't let the ADM cool off first. Does anyone know what the problem might be? What to look for? I agree with the others, caps are usually the culprit. But don't waste time tracking down the individual component - that's for modern hardware with the occasional failed cap. Old hardware like this should be completely 're-capped'. That is, replace ALL the caps. Why? because they degrade over time (especially electrolytics) and after a few decades almost all of them will be due to fail soon. So just do it now and get it over with. -John G. |
| You received this digest because you're subscribed to updates for this group. You can change your settings on the group membership page. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it send an email to sci.electronics.repair+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com. |
No Response to "Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 5 updates in 3 topics"
Post a Comment