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amdx <amdx@knology.net>: Jun 21 04:57AM -0700 On 11/9/2019 4:40 AM, Al wrote:   >> They also were lopsided with weight balance.   > got to be a Pioneer shirley? They made some massive knobs with lights > that wekt around but usually never in black.   Adcom?   -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus

Les Cargill <lcargil99@gmail.com>: Jun 21 10:13AM -0500 amdx wrote:   >> got to be a Pioneer shirley? They made some massive knobs with lights >> that wekt around but usually never in black.   >  Adcom?   No, it was Yamaha - the amps had "current mirror" silkscreened on them. It's the same basic line as the NS10s came from - NS being "Natural Sound" and 10 being the diameter of the bass driver in inches.   -- Les Cargill

whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com>: Jun 20 04:20PM -0700 On Friday, June 19, 2020 at 12:02:29 AM UTC-7, Tom Lake wrote: > I have an ADM-3A dumb terminal and when I first turn it on the display is squashed and the top line is mangled. After five minutes or so the display looks OK but is a little jumpy. After a few more minutes, the display is rock-solid and stays that way until the next time I turn it on cold.   Either some of the video adjustments are temperature-sensitive (not impossible, but unlikely) or you have a mechanical stress issue; maybe cracked solder joints, maybe a dirty connector.   If you know how to safe the CRT, you can open it up and exercise the connectors, look at solder joints (especially at heavty wires or connector pins) and maybe tap with a chopstick at various points DISTANT FROM the anode wire while power is on.   If you care about its function, do be gentle with the CRT; those are irreplaceable.

Cydrome Leader <presence@MUNGEpanix.com>: Jun 21 04:19AM > on cold. If I turn it off back on, the display is still fine as long as > I don't let the ADM cool off first. Does anyone know what the problem > might be? What to look for?   The freezy spray comments are just going to waste your money. You are not having intermittent problems when the unit heats up. Grab a heat gun and hit the capacitors. If you have a kit of spares, just start to replace them, or solder tack new ones across the bad ones and see which one fixes the issue. I used to have an adm-5a, a very similar unit.   Here's a full manual, schematics start on page 57   https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1023524/Lear-Siegler-Adm-3.html   It's a great terminal, except for how that damn keyboard feels.

Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Jun 20 11:39AM -0500 > Kill-A-Watt?   Try and keep up with the adults. <http://www.p3international.com/products/p4400.html>     -- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com

Adrian Caspersz <email@here.invalid>: Jun 16 04:46PM +0100 > You responded to a 22 year old post.   The OP's jail sentence has probably expired, he might be able to follow up on the wisdom of his bill dodging investigation?   -- Adrian C

Cydrome Leader <presence@MUNGEpanix.com>: Jun 17 07:03AM > the voltage coil and the current coil.   > Changing the amount of phase shift between them changes the > speed at which the dial rotates.   which is a measure of the actual power being consumed, as designed.   You are not going to fool a spinning disc power meter unless you tamper with it.   Power factor correction might lower your power consumption, but this is not going to be a concern in a house, unless you leave terribly inefficient things like 1/3rd horepower induction motors running all day long.

Chris Jones <lugnut808@spam.yahoo.com>: Jun 17 11:10PM +1000 On 17/06/2020 19:56, Phil Allison wrote:   > ** Yep.   >> Power factor correction might lower your power consumption,   > ** Oops, no it don't.   It could lower the wasted power in the resistance of the cable between the meter and the reactive load. This is unlikely to be significant unless you have a very very long cable from the meter to the reactive load. (It will also lower the wasted power in the cables before the meter but since you don't pay for that, there is no financial incentive for the consumer to fix it.)

Cydrome Leader <presence@MUNGEpanix.com>: Jun 21 04:10AM >> Can you explain I^2 R for me ?   > ** That must seem like a very clever Q to you.   > But I am not biting.   Just sit back and take some notes then. It sounds like you're forgetting some stuff.

Cydrome Leader <presence@MUNGEpanix.com>: Jun 17 05:31AM > the game is up! Especially if there really isnt much in the filter area > and I can move the impeller between quadrants, indicating that no > BLOCKAGE is stopping the impeller from moving.   I admit to not fixing dish washers. I do deal with other machinery with similar sized centrifugal pumps. Blockage seems to be the #1 problem. It doesn't really take much to stop a small pump either. All it takes is a piece of cellophane or tape to really mess things up. Complete blockage isn't needed. I've fished out junk with wires and it's not uncommonon to have to completely disassemble the wet side of even primo ceramic shaft, magnetic drive Iwaki pumps to fish out trash in system.   The motor spinning at all is a good sign though. Seized motors burn out real fast, and a burned out motor doesn't usually buzz or do anything.   Can you remove the pump and check the entire path the water takes?

Cydrome Leader <presence@MUNGEpanix.com>: Jun 21 04:05AM > from the fresh water system to the waste-water system? And if you are on > municipal water and municipal sewer, you are paying handsomely for that > privilege.   Nope. water here is really cheap. They don't even bother to meter it on most buildings. It's an all you can eat buffet. It's good water too, by the away.   > I expect that you still use high-phosphate detergent as well. It *does* > get things nice and clean, takes lots of water to do it, but nice and > clean!   I add TSP to all loads of wash.   > (Not to mention algae blooms. > https://www.greatlakesnow.org/algal-blooms/)   plants are good, right?

Cydrome Leader <presence@MUNGEpanix.com>: Jun 21 04:06AM >> Peter Wieck >> Melrose Park, PA   > Actually if you use lots of water you need hardly any soap. Perhaps none.   Bingo. Less soap residue on your clothes too.

"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Jun 20 09:53AM -0700 No lock is any better than the frame it is in. Nor do most thieves come at night.   Out on the Main Line (look it up!) there was a group that worked out of a large box-truck. They would pull up into a driveway (no sidewalks out there), put a large sign in the yard: House And Yard Clean-Outs, Fast Personal Service   Then, do just that.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

Jeff Layman <jmlayman@invalid.invalid>: Jun 20 06:28PM +0100 > Jeff Layman:   > You serious?   It's a source of the info the OP wanted.   > paper folded over and stapled double??   > Instructions should always be FREE. They're included in the cost of the product, > FFS..   To quote the OP: "If anyone has one of these handbooks, I would be glad to pay for it to be copied"   If nobody has a copy, or they are not willing to photocopy it, and the OP really wants the info, then somebody has the market cornered if /they/ have a copy. How do you think all these websites selling this info survive?   --   Jeff

bje@ripco.com: Jun 15 10:26AM > made in Singapore, but I do have the Sanyo advert in UK in which it looks > like a salesman selected it for me and I actually purchased it in the > United Arab Emirates.   What exactly is a "Hi Fi System"?   Is this a stereo receiver for the home or some kind of ghetto boombox?   If it's the latter, I'd give up now.   Most of those things from the 80's and early 90's were probably built from boards/modules cranked out by chinese or korean white box companies and just assembled by companies like Sanyo, if they had anything to do with it in the first place.   Plus what is so complicated with it you need the user manual?   On/off, selector knob or switch for the input, after that, volume and tone to taste. What else do you need to know?   -bruce bje@ripco.com

Jeff Layman <jmlayman@invalid.invalid>: Jun 15 04:13PM +0100 On 14/06/20 17:56, georgewbell wrote:   > At this time I was often in all three places so anything is possible.   > Does anyone know when Sanyo was taken over and by whom. If anyone has one of these handbooks, I would be glad to pay for it to be copied It ended up in a container. That is where I have recently found it and I do not think it was ever used, it looks brand new. It was a fairly popular item.   > Any ideas? Thanks George.   Both the operating guide and service manual are listed on this page at £7.49 each: <http://mauritron.com/sanyo.html>   --   Jeff

Mike S <mscir@yahoo.com>: Jun 14 02:03PM -0700 On 6/14/2020 9:56 AM, georgewbell wrote:   > At this time I was often in all three places so anything is possible.   > Does anyone know when Sanyo was taken over and by whom. If anyone has one of these handbooks, I would be glad to pay for it to be copied It ended up in a container. That is where I have recently found it and I do not think it was ever used, it looks brand new. It was a fairly popular item.   > Any ideas? Thanks George.   Did you try this site? https://www.sanyo-av.com/us/support/download.php

Adrian Caspersz <email@here.invalid>: Jun 15 10:05AM +0100 On 15/06/2020 09:30, Cydrome Leader wrote:     > What is the reliability difference, if any between the classic > transfomer/diode/capacitors and the fancy inverter ovens?   The Inverter model reliably makes a louder sound on expiry?   I'd bet the fancy Inverter design is to get the price down, cost of copper and weight etc. The chief reason for a SMPS.     -- Adrian C

Cydrome Leader <presence@MUNGEpanix.com>: Jun 15 08:30AM > I admire your wish to reduce landfill, but I have to wonder at the investment in a 10 year old device that is heavily used by your own description.   > Peter Wieck > Melrose Park, PA   What is the reliability difference, if any between the classic transfomer/diode/capacitors and the fancy inverter ovens?

Clifford Heath <no.spam@please.net>: Jun 17 11:57AM +1000 On 15/6/20 6:30 pm, Cydrome Leader wrote: >> Melrose Park, PA   > What is the reliability difference, if any between the classic > transfomer/diode/capacitors and the fancy inverter ovens?   We have a National (Panasonic) microwave from 1981, still working a treat. I know of others like it. It's pretty hard to compare MTBF when you have zero F.

bje@ripco.com: Jun 17 11:34AM > Lol, I've wondered about the "sensor" in these things. I know can't be > related to any sort of device that measures anything. Must be marketing > speak or a weirdly translated word.   I don't think the "sensor" is a gimmick.   From what I ran across somewhere, it's like a humidity or moisture measurement and really did/does work. I just had a 16~17 year old GE over-the-range type that went out that used sensor cooking and now using a $99 counter top model (1250W Magic Chef) that doesn't, I miss it.   I would of replaced the GE with a current model but it's a 2 man job and with ye old pandemic, I figured the $99 special will suffice for now until an assistant is found. What's odd with the break down is the keypad doesn't work and it's not the keypad or ribbon cable.   About a month before I noticed the 3-6-9 buttons wouldn't do anything but all the others were fine. Then one early morning, ComEd (local power company) cut the power for about 10 minutes which reset the clock back to the blinking 12 (actually I think it scrolls "Press clock to set time") and that was that. No more workie. It does boot, plug it in, you get the beep and even the "GE brings great things to life" scrolls on the display.   Everywhere I checked for parts (figured a new/used control panel) ended up the same "Not in stock - No Longer Available".   Disappointing.   -bruce bje@ripco.com

root <NoEMail@home.org>: Jun 16 04:19PM I was looking through an old copy of Seely's book. My favorite tube (on the basis of clever design) was the Phantastron. Really slick.

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