- Solid state relay questions - 5 Updates
| Michael Terrell <terrell.michael.a@gmail.com>: Aug 13 05:33AM -0700 > a 2 HP pump that draws less than 10 amps. It is a capacitor start > type pump so it draws less current at start up than a non-capacitor > type pump. Why isn't the switch at the pump? How are you going to get power from the house to the pump, without new a new power line? |
| "pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Aug 13 05:52AM -0700 > Why isn't the switch at the pump? How are you going to get power from the house to the pump, without new a new power line? After all this confusion - I expect that the OP means to "control" the pump from the house. If I can interpret the issue (risky, always). a) The house has a back-up generator. b) The line to the pump is from the house, but the power to the tank is from the shop, not backed up. c) The pressure switch is at the tank. I interpret this to mean that a 120V pressure-switch is controlling a 240V pump, powered by two different sources. Which is flat-out nuts. I am interpreting (again, risky) that the OP wants the controls at the pump. So, the 120V source at the shop will control a 240V (hopefully) contactor at the pump. All the while forgetting that if there is a power-failure, that 120V source will be dead - so, no water. Clue 1: The tank does not care where it is in the system. Clue 2: The tank will be perfectly happy staying where it is, with all controls, pressure-switch, contactor and so forth at the pump - in suitable enclosures, of course. Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA |
| etpm@whidbey.com: Aug 13 09:00AM -0700 On Thu, 13 Aug 2020 05:52:00 -0700 (PDT), "pfjw@aol.com" >Clue 2: The tank will be perfectly happy staying where it is, with all controls, pressure-switch, contactor and so forth at the pump - in suitable enclosures, of course. >Peter Wieck >Melrose Park, PA The tank and pressure switch are at the shop and have been so for over 20 years. The pressure switch has two contacts. The 240 volt power from the shop, where the tank and pressure switch are, is switched by the pressure switch. The pressure switch has a completely mechanical action. The pressure switch switches both legs of the 240 volt power. When the house was built and I was digging ditches I put conduit in the ground from the house to the well so that I could eventually power the well from the house. Now that I have the generator panel and transfer switch installed and bought off at the house I want to power the well from the house so that the generator will be able to power the well when the power goes out. I pulled wire from the house to the well to supply power, so now power from the house is at the well head. The pressure switch must be located at the pressure tank for proper operation. I am not going to move the pressure tank. So all I want to do is to use the existing pressure switch to switch the power to a contactor coil. The power for the contactor coil that the pressure switch will be switching will be coming from the house. The contactor will be switching the power coming from the house. There will no longer be any power coming from the shop. Nowhere did I say any switch was 120 volts. What is wrong with doing this? Eric |
| Michael Terrell <terrell.michael.a@gmail.com>: Aug 13 09:09AM -0700 > All the while forgetting that if there is a power-failure, that 120V source will be dead - so, no water. > Clue 1: The tank does not care where it is in the system. > Clue 2: The tank will be perfectly happy staying where it is, with all controls, pressure-switch, contactor and so forth at the pump - in suitable enclosures, of course. He could have easily buried a new power line to the tank when he installed the plumbing, as well. I am rebuilding my pumphouse and rewiring it. It will have a couple AC Ammeters and a line voltage meter to monitor the pump's health, along with a one minute lockout between pump cycles. Te old pump failed, but All I could check was the voltage, since there were no current transformers in place. One till monitor the current to the run winding,, the other will show total current. The voltmeter's use is obvious. The timer is to prevent overheating of the start capacitor, if the potential relay fails, again. I have a new submersible pump, and two pump control boxes, so it an be swapped out without waiting for spare parts. The old pump lasted 22 years. That is a long life, with Florida's very hard water. |
| Michael Terrell <terrell.michael.a@gmail.com>: Aug 13 09:16AM -0700 > the house. The contactor will be switching the power coming from the > house. There will no longer be any power coming from the shop. Nowhere > did I say any switch was 120 volts. What is wrong with doing this? I have never seen one installed that way. Why not just put the pressure switch at the house, if you insist on not locating it at the pump? That would eliminate all of the jury rigged crap that wouldn't pass an inspection. |
| You received this digest because you're subscribed to updates for this group. You can change your settings on the group membership page. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it send an email to sci.electronics.repair+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com. |
No Response to "Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 5 updates in 1 topic"
Post a Comment