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vjp2.at@at.BioStrategist.dot.dot.com: Aug 14 12:09PM My 2011 Kindle's USB connector (B or C?) is broken. I tried bending it a bit, but it seems it got worse. It seems really small, which frightens me. How roomy are the sodler contacts? I'm hoping I won't need to really replace it because sourcing everything is difficult in the pandemic. (Unless you tell me Target or PC Richard have them, which they almost certainly don't. I haven't seen a Radio Shack in several years.)     -- Vasos Panagiotopoulos, Columbia'81+, Reagan, Mozart, Pindus blog: panix.com/~vjp2/ruminatn.htm - = - web: panix.com/~vjp2/vasos.htm facebook.com/vasjpan2 - linkedin.com/in/vasjpan02 - biostrategist.com ---{Nothing herein constitutes advice. Everything fully disclaimed.}---

"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Aug 14 05:16AM -0700 Buy a new cable with two new ends.   Amazon has it in stock. As does Staples.   Price from US$8 to US$15 depending on which bells combined with what whistles you need.   Oh, and Target also.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

abrsvc <dansabrservices@yahoo.com>: Aug 14 06:57AM -0700 > Oh, and Target also.   > Peter Wieck > Melrose Park, PA   If the connector on the kindle itself is damaged, a replacement cable won't help. I stock a number of different style connectors all of which are surface mounted. A hot air station is best for replacement.

Mike Coon <gravity@mjcoon.plus.com>: Aug 14 05:14PM +0100 In article <3fb1a2a0-5f56-496c-97b1-d46459cd1bc1o@googlegroups.com>, dansabrservices@yahoo.com says...   > If the connector on the kindle itself is damaged, a replacement cable > won't help. I stock a number of different style connectors all of > which are surface mounted. A hot air station is best for replacement.   Yes, I quickly gave up on trying to replace a USB-B connector, not having surface-mount expertise. Unless the connector itself is on a small daughter board (which I have seen on some variety of tablet recently) which can be purchased cheaply and easily replaced.   Mike.

"Ron D." <ron.dozier@gmail.com>: Aug 14 06:38AM -0700 Comments:   1. use a definite purpose contactor.   2. the pressure switch might have a minimum load, so if those contacts are used to switch a relay coil, they may fail.

"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Aug 14 07:41AM -0700 On Friday, August 14, 2020 at 9:38:59 AM UTC-4, Ron D. wrote: > Comments:   > 1. use a definite purpose contactor.   > 2. the pressure switch might have a minimum load, so if those contacts are used to switch a relay coil, they may fail. http://store.flw.com/content/100608/43609/ashcroft-b-series-pressure-switch.pdf   I also think that putting the pressure switch next to the well-head is a good idea. The tank really does not care where it is in the system.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

etpm@whidbey.com: Aug 13 03:43PM -0700 I have an old Baldor grinder that's at least 80 years old. It is a cap start and run motor. So the cap is always in the circuit of the phase shifted winding. There is no centrifugal start switch. It has always taken a long time to come up to speed but these types of motors do that. However, it seems to take much longer to spin up than my newer Baldor grinder motors that are wired the same. The capacitor is a rectangular shape about 5/16ths of an inch thick and maybe 1.5 x 2.0 inches. It has a brass case with cloth covered wires coming out of the tar used to seal the case. I mention the cap construction just to give an idea of how old it is. I went through the motor a few years ago because the bearings were bad. They had rawhide seals that had dried out, shrunk, and let grit in. I replaced them with modern sealed bearings. The motor runs very smooth. Just like a grinder motor should. Today I used the grinder for about 1/2 an hour and it got pretty hot. I was not loading the grinder very much because I was just grinding points on tungsten TIG electrodes with a diamond wheel I have mounted. Still, the motor got pretty damn hot. Could a bad cap do this? I suppose there could be some shorted windings. In any case, if a bad cap could cause hot running I'll take the thing apart again and replace the cap. Thanks, Eric

"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Aug 14 05:00AM -0700 If the cap is original to the motor, replace it. 80 years is a very long time for such a device, keeping in mind that AC-rated capacitors (80-year-old style) will deteriorate just by sitting on the shelf. A modern polyprop cap of the correct rating and voltage will outlive most of us here. As to the motor itself, do you have an AC ammeter, with specific reference to the clamp-on type? If so, check each leg of the feed - they should be substantially the same when running, and substantially below nameplate when unloaded. If either of those statements is untrue of your motor, it is on its way out, however slowly.   But, to answer your question directly, yes, hot-running is a symptom of a failed cap - as is slow starting and poor load handling.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

legg <legg@nospam.magma.ca>: Aug 13 02:41PM -0400 >I'm discouraged by this experience with DVD media and >hardware, for data.   >RL   A new (2009) DVD R/W had no issues recognizing the old DVD media. This was a Sony AD-7230S. With 2xHT/LG drives sitting on the shelf with the same DVD recognition issues, I changed mfrs with no real reason to do so.   There were a lot of these Sony drives on the market both new and second-hand, so they're obviously not either rare or particularly desirable. Seems that we're still cleaning out warehoused stock from 10yrs ago.   This was the W7 SATA drive failure.   Still waiting for the replacement for the older IDE system.   RL

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