| Chuck <chuck23@deja.net>: Nov 05 10:39AM -0600 On Wed, 17 Jun 2020 10:14:06 -0700 (PDT), "pfjw@aol.com" >https://www.amazon.com/Wobe-Washing-Machine-Laundry-Rustproof/dp/B07BBLX17Q >Peter Wieck >Melrose Park, PA I wouldn't use the Peerless lint traps on a top loader Whirlpool. The back pressure caused my washer to leak. I put a trap on the sink drain and no more leaks. |
| mjb@signal11.invalid (Mike): Nov 05 12:53PM In article <y5OdndPPm_dLhj7CnZ2dnUU7-c3NnZ2d@giganews.com>, >Ape. (1975) ><https://www.amazon.com/Rape-Ape-Allan-Sherman/dp/B000K72JHU> >It is called the Gigi Bird. That reference sounds a bit highbrow and literary ... I know it as the "Oozlum Bird" from the UK "Carry On Up The Jungle" film :) https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oozlum_bird -- --------------------------------------+------------------------------------ Mike Brown: mjb[-at-]signal11.org.uk | http://www.signal11.org.uk |
| "Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Nov 05 07:12AM -0800 We have the Ooh-Ahh bird - a one-pound bird that lays a two-pound egg. Some say a square egg - but we all know that is anatomically impossible! |
| Mike Coon <gravity@mjcoon.plus.com>: Nov 05 03:30PM In article <1d88c5c7-ce3b-4084-b58e-fcd5523112e4n@googlegroups.com>, peterwieck33@gmail.com says... > We have the Ooh-Ahh bird - a one-pound bird that lays a two-pound egg. Some say a square egg - but we all know that is anatomically impossible! Maybe it got confused with the square peg? |
| Tim R <timothy42b@aol.com>: Nov 05 07:48AM -0800 > at the finest. The cheapest 3D scanners that will scan stuff to a > resolution of .1mm, or .004" start at about 700 bucks. > Eric I'm only familiar with the hot plastic style of 3D printer. They have them at the local library and before COVID I was able to watch them build some impressive sculptures (with kids working on them.) I did not realize there was another kind with higher resolution available until I saw an ad for 3D printed trumpet mouthpieces, and the required finish and resolution is much higher, so they are using a cured resin approach. I found this link: https://all3dp.com/1/best-resin-dlp-sla-3d-printer-kit-stereolithography/ |
| Tim R <timothy42b@aol.com>: Nov 05 07:50AM -0800 On Wednesday, November 4, 2020 at 12:07:02 PM UTC-5, Peter W. wrote: > > You've never done the software? Umm. Be prepared for a learning curve, I've struggled and I'm an engineer who had to take drawing and CAD in school. But for what you want you're probably okay, lots of youtube videos. > I am not so worried about the software. It has to have its roots in some CAD system from some source, Yes, it's CAD, but the approach is a little different. Where I think of drawing as an additive process, the approach here seems to be start with a larger shape and subtract elements. |
| "Edward H." <dtgamer99@gmail.com>: Nov 05 07:54AM -0800 > I did not realize there was another kind with higher resolution available until I saw an ad for 3D printed trumpet mouthpieces, and the required finish and resolution is much higher, so they are using a cured resin approach. > I found this link: > https://all3dp.com/1/best-resin-dlp-sla-3d-printer-kit-stereolithography/ I built a resin printer using a projector and CD/DVD drive from an old PC. Resin is stinky and requires a space with vents and fans. It can get messy. Results or "ok". The price of these machines continues to drop and I'll probably end up grabbing a decent one soon. https://www.instructables.com/Chimera-60-DLP-resin-3d-printer/ |
| "Edward H." <dtgamer99@gmail.com>: Nov 05 07:58AM -0800 > > > You've never done the software? Umm. Be prepared for a learning curve, I've struggled and I'm an engineer who had to take drawing and CAD in school. But for what you want you're probably okay, lots of youtube videos. > > I am not so worried about the software. It has to have its roots in some CAD system from some source, > Yes, it's CAD, but the approach is a little different. Where I think of drawing as an additive process, the approach here seems to be start with a larger shape and subtract elements. I've used tinkercad.com to create a few items. It can get bogged down but it's a great site. Netfabb is a must have. It fixes any issues with your objects after creation. It's free and helpful. https://service.netfabb.com/ |
| Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Nov 05 03:48AM -0800 major wrote: =============== > Sorry, the meters are a GE2524 Digital Multimeter that reads the 9V and > the other meter is a Etek 10709 that reads 4 V. > Not sure about dimmer frequency, but I can hear a faint whine as it runs. ** What range are you using ??? AC volts or DC volts? PWM voltage waves can be read as an average value on any DC meter - but true power will require something much fancier. Why not just measure the DC battery current and multiply by the voltage? Then subtract a watt or so for losses in the controller. .... Phil |
| major <maj7789@aolspam.net>: Nov 05 10:05AM -0500 On 11/5/20 6:48 AM, Phil Allison wrote: >> Not sure about dimmer frequency, but I can hear a faint whine as it runs. > ** What range are you using ??? > AC volts or DC volts? DC on both meters on lowest range, 20 V. > PWM voltage waves can be read as an average value on any DC meter - but true power will require something much fancier. > Why not just measure the DC battery current and multiply by the voltage? If you mean input from the battery into the dimmer, yes, tried that. Both meters show the same 12 VDC @ 7 A when the dimmer is set at maximum. Will have to check and see what happens as dimmer is adjusted. > Then subtract a watt or so for losses in the controller. Would I only lose a watt or two through the dimmer? If so, I guess I could take all my readings from the input side and go with those. |
| major <maj7789@aolspam.net>: Nov 05 10:06AM -0500 On 11/5/20 3:48 AM, Trevor Wilson wrote: >> different DVM's and how to remedy? > **Measure the output of the dimmer with a CRO and it may make a lot more > sense. You talking a scope here or something else? If a scope, unfortunately, I don't own one. |
| Jon Elson <elson@pico-systems.com>: Nov 05 09:56AM -0600 major wrote: > the other 4 V. I am trying to determine wattage output at various > dimmer settings. Why the different in voltage readings on two different > DVM's and how to remedy? These dimmers MUST be pulse width modulated, othwerwise the heat production would be huge. You can't expect a DVM to give accurate reading of a pulsating source. Possibly some true-RMS meters may do a decent job of averaging the result, but I would not trust such a reading without verifying it with another instrument, like an oscilliscope. Jon |
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