- Washing machine controls - 7 Updates
- Actual Use For The Scariac - 2 Updates
- Outdoor equipment steel cabinet corrosion - 1 Update
| bob prohaska <bp@www.zefox.net>: Mar 25 05:01PM I take it nobody has had much success obtaining service manuals? Thanks for reading, bob prohaska |
| "Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Mar 25 10:51AM -0700 Rant Warning Rant Warning Appliances require care and feeding, generally in direct proportion to their complexity. One upon a time, the typical Maytag top-loading washer had a timer driving a layered switch with an eccentric series of contacts activating a series of soleboid valves and relays that operated a motor, a pump, and a transmission. Perhaps half-a-dozen assemblies operating without any sort of software at all. No silliness such as weight sensors, dryness sensors, dirt sensors nor much of anything else along those lines other than *perhaps* a door/lid switch so that the system shut down when the top was opened. Oh, and it would use up to forty (40) gallons of water for a single load. Big ones used more. They could be overloaded, they could get unbalanced and much more, And, they would leave between one (1) and three (3) of water behind for the dryer to work with. Now, they have more computing power than the original Space Shuttle, use between four (4) and eight (8) gallons of water to do more clothing, and leave only a very few ounces of water behind after spinning. And they do not care about balance much. There is a price to be paid for all this efficiency, however. They need to be level. Really level. With a proper level, level. Fore and aft, starboard and port. That also means with the feet each bearing properly. This does not happen much. I know of two such washers that were installed properly initially. One in this house, by Best Buy, bless them! Their installer took a full 10 minutes with the level to get it 'just so' (and did not take a tip!), and the other at our summer house. I redid both the kids' machines after so-called 'professional' installation. They need to have the sump cleaned regularly, every quarter in the typical house, every week if small kids are involved with Lego pieces, coins, marbles and such. They need to use the proper detergent, and in the proper quantities. NO, more detergent will NOT make it cleaner. NO, fabric softener does NOT help clothing last longer, nor is it good for the machine. Just a lot more lint in the sump. Yes, they DO like really hot water once in a while to remove scum. Add a bit of ammonia to help. Dishwashers have similar foibles, but with different emphases. There is no reason whatsoever that a well maintained modern appliance should not last 30+ years with scrupulous maintenance. Well until the original purchaser is either tired of it, or has moved out or worse. My general contention is that if an appliance makes it through its first two years, then it is not a lemon. Excepting that generation of LG appliances that rust badly, of course. Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA |
| "Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Mar 25 10:54AM -0700 On Thursday, March 25, 2021 at 1:01:25 PM UTC-4, bob prohaska wrote: > I take it nobody has had much success obtaining service manuals? > Thanks for reading, > bob prohaska https://servicemanuals.us/lg/washing-machine/category.html Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA |
| bob prohaska <bp@www.zefox.net>: Mar 25 07:27PM > https://servicemanuals.us/lg/washing-machine/category.html Interesting site, but kinda hard to browse. It looks as if the manuals are identified only by part number, not applicable model. The few I looked at were 24" wide compacts. Maybe it's aimed at a non-US market. Also, they seem to want subscriptions via PayPal. Thanks for the link, I wish they had manuals for more brands. bob prohaska |
| "Ron D." <ron.dozier@gmail.com>: Mar 25 12:30PM -0700 I don't have any new stuff. I don't want them. I have A 43 YO gas dryer. Right now, I have to replace the unobtainable ignitor I have about 6 spares. I found out, I can manually light it with a spark for a short time before it finally won;t light at all. Not too long ago, I did a major rebuild and really discovered that I need to do a major PM every 5 years and a minor one yearly, so i made that much easier to do. There is a bearing around the fan. If it fails, all sorts of problems happen. I don;t know how to 3- print the seal. but in 40 years, the grease dried out. The NOS replacement had to have the grease replaced. What would really help is a electronic slip detector for the blower. I re-did the grease and changed the set screw to a brass-tipped one. I would like the set screw to fail. I still need to re-build the lint catcher. I'll try to take some more measurements when I put the ignitor back in. I;ll even try to determine the wire used, cold resistance, hot resistance, voltage and current. What I did on the last rebuild is I made it possible to remove the blower assembly easily by adding about 8 thumb screws and rivet nuts. On the previous service, I put rivet nuts on the outer panels. The washer spits out the lint and clogs the drain. So, i made a proof-of-concept external sock filter and then borrowed a friend's lathe and made it really easy to clean the sock. So, the most important thing, i think you can do for an electronic appliance is to add surge suppression. I did that to a Carrier AC and I had mechanical button problems on the thermostat. The electrical problem was a wierd one where the backlight continued to stay on. The fix was to turn the HVAC system off for about 3 weeks and add surge suppression. Earlier I had to add a filter because the ECM motor was interfereing and breaking power line controls like X-10. The surge suppressor was a bidirectional 24VAC rated TVS diode installed at the furnace. A $2.00 part. I have a story which really bothered me. Tracor-Northern had a multi-channel analyzer that we were using on an SEM (Scanning Electron Microscope) to make a crude EDS (electron dispersive x-ray analyzer) and it died twice repair was like $1000 for a $5000 USD instrument. It died after a storm. We had the schematic and there was absolutely no power line protection. I added an ISOBAR and no more problems. Tracor-Northern said their specs said 120V 60Hz for power and we and we obviosly exceeded that. The best surge suppression so far is a power conditioner (Isolation transformer) AND a a surge supressor from OneAC/ Powervat such as the ISOBAR, That method outperforms everything short of a UPS. The ISOBAR give you a connected equipment warranty and they honor it. I;d use it for a washer/dryer. Sometimes, surge suppression can be cheap and other times expensive. Whole house is also possible with and without an isolation transformer. With an isolation transformer the magnetocs limit the high frequency from getting to the other side. A word about isolation. It is and it isn't. The neutral-ground bond isre-made after the transformer. Maybe the washer guys should put all of the relays on a separate, replaceable board. Power Condition, save the receipt, exercise the protected equipment Warranty. |
| Tim R <timothy42b@aol.com>: Mar 25 12:41PM -0700 On Thursday, March 25, 2021 at 1:51:19 PM UTC-4, Peter W. wrote: > Rant Warning Rant Warning > Appliances require care and feeding, generally in direct proportion to their complexity. One upon a time, the typical Maytag top-loading washer had a timer driving a layered switch with an eccentric series of contacts activating a series of soleboid valves and relays that operated a motor, a pump, and a transmission. Mine is 31 years old, I think. My fear with the modern versions is that with all the electronic controls they become vulnerable to power supply glitches. Speed Queen still makes a commercial quality washer available to consumers. It costs more, a lot more, but sometimes you get what you pay for. The best way to have clothes last longer while still getting them clean is supposed to be cold water, long presoak, and short wash cycle. |
| Rob <nomail@example.com>: Mar 26 01:27PM > We have an LG that is now a year old, replacing a floor-model LG that went at 12 years of heavy use. And not from electronics, motors or such, but of all things rust. > At our summer house, we have a 15 year old LG that also has a bit of rust, but is still going strong otherwise. We purchased it used - see pump, below - for $75. Is LG that crappy? I had a 35 year old Bosch that did not have the slightest bit of rust, but it had a failed draining pump. I obtained a new pump from a recycling shop, but when I handled the machine to put it on its side for easier access to the pump the plastic control panel shattered and for practical reasons I had to replace the machine. |
| "Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Mar 25 11:15AM -0700 You seem to have a lot of time on your hands lately. Recovering from surgery and/or very good pharmaceuticals? Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA |
| Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Mar 25 01:53PM -0500 On 3/25/21 1:15 PM, Peter W. wrote: > You seem to have a lot of time on your hands lately. I had to look up what was a scariac. Yeah, I can see how they got that nickname. Of course, he totally missed the concept of a dim bulb tester. -- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com |
| "Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Mar 25 10:08AM -0700 It is all about preparation: a) Disassemble, to the extent possible. Screws, nuts, bolts, and so forth. b) Remove all existing coatings. With chemicals, if necessary. c) Remove all existing rust. By chemical or physical means. d) Rent or borrow an electrostatic painting device, purchase the appropriate paint. This is NOT a powder-coat. e) Paint per the directions. Include the fasteners if not already plated, or replace the fasteners with stainless steel. f) Obtain magnesium washers ILO those supplied, and use them during the reassembly. Should give you at least another 20 years. Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA |
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