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"ohg...@gmail.com" <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Apr 13 10:38AM -0700 > I have searched and can not find them.   > Anyone have a good search term I can try.   > Mikek   I haven't seen those in years. I used to use them and they worked great. I used to put them in the high fixtures over hallway stairs in some rentals I had and the bulbs lasted forever - but they only work on incandescent bulbs.

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Apr 13 11:55AM -0700 On 2021/04/13 7:04 a.m., amdx wrote:   > I have searched and can not find them.   > Anyone have a good search term I can try.   >                                 Mikek   Here is a story from 1981 about these buttons - Bulb Miser and Light-Saver:   https://www.washingtonpost.com/archive/lifestyle/1981/05/31/light-bulb-energy-buttons-watt-about-saving-38/acb0c2c3-c3a6-4e67-abdb-0072dc20f578/   Perhaps that will help your quest! At least you now have the names...   John :-#)#

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Apr 13 11:57AM -0700 On 2021/04/13 11:55 a.m., John Robertson wrote:   > Perhaps that will help your quest! At least you now have the names...   > John :-#)#   And here are some Eagle Energy Buttons on eBay:   https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313&_nkw=Eagle+Energy+Button%2C&_sacat=0   John :-#)#   -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3 (604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

bilou <bilou@sfr.fr>: Apr 13 09:28PM +0200 On 13/04/2021 20:55, John Robertson wrote:     > https://www.washingtonpost.com/archive/lifestyle/1981/05/31/light-bulb-energy-buttons-watt-about-saving-38/acb0c2c3-c3a6-4e67-abdb-0072dc20f578/   > Perhaps that will help your quest! At least you now have the names...   > John :-#)#   Thanks for the link In France I have never heard of such devices. May be because at that time most lamps sockets were bayonet type. I tried the diode in a switch but 220v smaller filaments and 50Hz lower frequency produced an annoying blinking. I saw the diode used in drills and heating devices.

dplatt@coop.radagast.org (Dave Platt): Apr 13 02:02PM -0700 In article <6075f0d1$0$3685$426a74cc@news.free.fr>, >I tried the diode in a switch but 220v smaller filaments and 50Hz >lower frequency produced an annoying blinking. >I saw the diode used in drills and heating devices.   As I understand it - the Bulb Miser is a thermistor (positive temperature coefficient). It reduces the current surge into a "cold" incandescent bulb filament, reducing the chance of a burn-out at that time, and thus extends the life of the bulb. It does reduce the light output and raises the operating temperature of the socket.   The Light-Saver is one of a number of diode-type "bulb savers". As I recall, these sorts of devices do reduce the filament temperature and thus extend the bulb's life, but they have several disadvantages:   - Greatly reduced light output (by about half)   - Reduced efficiency. Since the filament is operating at a lower temperature, a lower percentage of its output is visible than during normal operation, and there's (relatively) more non- visible infrared. You get less visible light per watt.   - Radio frequency interference. The rectification effect creates sharp edges in the current waveform, and this creates RF energy. AM and other radio reception can suffer (buzzing, reduced sensitivity, etc.).   - Asymmetric load on the mains. If you have a bunch of these in use at the same time, and if the diodes all line up the same way, the circuit will draw more current on one half of the AC waveform than on the other. This can lead to humming and buzzing in transformers.   Neither of these sorts of "bulb savers" are good for use with either fluorescent or LED bulbs.   An alternative to these (if you really do insist on an incandescent bulb) is to buy a bulb made for limited-service locations (e.g. outdoor fixtures) which has a "130-volt" filament rating. When run on the lower voltages that are normal, the filament runs "cool" and lasts a lot longer than a standard bulb. You still have to accept the reduced efficiency (lower light output per watt).

Ralph Mowery <rmowery42@charter.net>: Apr 13 11:42PM -0400 In article <bgdhkh-tlk.ln1@coop.radagast.org>, dplatt@coop.radagast.org says... > lower voltages that are normal, the filament runs "cool" and lasts > a lot longer than a standard bulb. You still have to accept the reduced > efficiency (lower light output per watt).   I never did understand the 130 volt rated bulbs. I don't know of any 130 volt services in the US. However the voltage has been creeping up over the years. Went from 115 to 120 and mine usually runs around 125 as measured by a meter with better than 1 % accuracy.   I do know some bulbs are rated for 'rough service' with heaver filaments but have not looked to see the voltage rating.

amdx <amdx@knology.net>: Apr 14 11:06AM -0500 On 4/13/2021 10:42 PM, Ralph Mowery wrote: >> efficiency (lower light output per watt).   > I never did understand the 130 volt rated bulbs. I don't know of any > 130 volt services in the US.    It's like running a 120V bulb on 110 volts, it has an extended life.     -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus

amdx <amdx@knology.net>: Apr 14 11:10AM -0500 On 4/13/2021 9:04 AM, amdx wrote:   > I have searched and can not find them.   > Anyone have a good search term I can try.   >                                 Mikek    After reading there are two types, I definitely want the diode style, but I may not need it any longer.   I order some 15 watt bulbs, they may have the right light output. I have a sauna, and 60 Watts is just to bright for the proper ambience.   Thanks for all the information.                                                Mikek     -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus

Ralph Mowery <rmowery42@charter.net>: Apr 14 12:32PM -0400 In article <s573uf$eap$1@dont-email.me>, amdx@knology.net says...   > > I never did understand the 130 volt rated bulbs. I don't know of any > > 130 volt services in the US.   >  It's like running a 120V bulb on 110 volts, it has an extended life.   I am well aware that reducing the voltage slightly will extend the life of filament bulbs, but as far as I know there is no 130 volt service in the US, so why mark the bulbs as 130 volts ? Just mark them as extended life or something like that.

"Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Apr 14 09:37AM -0700 > 130 volt services in the US. However the voltage has been creeping up > over the years. Went from 115 to 120 and mine usually runs around 125 > as measured by a meter with better than 1 % accuracy.   Many primary-feed industrial locations ran at 480/277 for lighting and motors. I remember when I was in school our drafting studio was in a former factory right on the Schuylkill in Center City. Wallplate voltage was 130V, lighting was 277, and even the ceiling fans and exhaust fans were 480V. What made it even more interesting was that the primary service to the building was 4-wire, 2-phase converted to three-phase using 'Scott-Connected' transformers, AKA 'Scott-T' transformers. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scott-T_transformer   In the studio, there were all kinds of warning stickers on the receptacles stating that they were at an actual 130V. And for those of us with drafting lights, lamps were supplied.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

bitrex <user@example.net>: Apr 14 09:11AM -0400 I have a piece of equipment that uses a 14-pin cable to connect the front panel LCD to the mainboard, using a flat ribbon cable of this type:   <https://media.digikey.com/Photos/Molex/0982660435.jpg>   With friction-fit contacts on the end. The original has degraded over 35 years and gotten brittle and the "pins" have started to lift. However all the 14-pin ribbon cables I can straightforwardly pull up of this type have a very narrow pitch and overall width, and are no good for this application it's more like something you'd use in a modern laptop.   I don't know the exact pitch for the pins on the OEM cable but the 14-pin ribbon cable itself is the better part of 2 inches wide. Anyone still sell a cable like this?

bitrex <user@example.net>: Apr 14 09:18AM -0400 On 4/14/2021 9:11 AM, bitrex wrote:   > I don't know the exact pitch for the pins on the OEM cable but the > 14-pin ribbon cable itself is the better part of 2 inches wide. Anyone > still sell a cable like this?   As a better example pic of the type of cable I'm talking about:   <https://img.diytrade.com/cdimg/206111/13471868/0/1279073718/2_54_pitch_flat_ribbon_cable_FFC_fpc.jpg>   Thrive.cn seems to be a wholesaler...

"Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Apr 14 06:47AM -0700 https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/High-quality-1-27mm-Flexible-Flat_60302718949.html?spm=a2700.7724857.normal_offer.d_image.4a132477ovxS15   Those are "automotive" ribbon cables. Anyone here remember Peugeot? Infamous for using these beasts for everything. They are not compatible with road salt, as they found out.   Linked is a possible source.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

micky <NONONOmisc07@fmguy.com>: Apr 13 11:43PM -0400 What are the devices in these two parts of a schematic   https://imgur.com/a/mnnzq3O   On the left is probably the lighting for the 2005 Solara trip computer. The schematic calls it the Upper Console Panel Sub-Assembly which I think is the part above the radio (but the schematic lists the clock illumination separately and makes no reference to the outside thermometer, so that just lives the sort-of trip computer.)   I understand the LEDs but why zener diodes, and another diode (since there is 12V DC at the top and ground at the bottom)?     On the right is almost all of what the Toyota wiring manual calls the combination meter, meaning the speedometer and other meters in the instrument cluster. I aassume the "rheostat" is the thing it has to adjust the brightnees, that the LED (or more than one) provides the light, but what are the strange things at the bottom and to the right.   They look like they are connected to transisors, but they have the 3 vertical lines, one of which in each set has a left-point arrow.   The manual has a list of symbols and it has LED, photodiode and zener diode, but not the strange things in that picture.     BTW, was this an appropriate post for Imgur? Most of their posts sseem to be more entertaining.   I though I had flickr and instagram but I can't find the login info. I don't understand all this computer stuff.

rbowman <bowman@montana.com>: Apr 13 09:57PM -0600 On 04/13/2021 09:43 PM, micky wrote: > They look like they are connected to transisors, but they have the 3 > vertical lines, one of which in each set has a left-point arrow.   https://byjus.com/physics/mosfet/   Too bad you have me blocked, but so it goes.

"Rod Speed" <rod.speed.aaa@gmail.com>: Apr 14 02:48PM +1000 micky <NONONOmisc07@fmguy.com> wrote   > illumination separately and makes no reference to the outside > thermometer, so that just lives the sort-of trip computer.) > I understand the LEDs but why zener diodes,   Those provide a constant voltage across the leds so that the intensity of the leds doesn't vary with the battery voltage.   > and another diode   That protects against a reversal of the battery.   > (since there is 12V DC at the top and ground at the bottom)?   The 12V is nominal and will vary with the state of the battery. > the instrument cluster. I aassume the "rheostat" is the thing it has to > adjust the brightnees, that the LED (or more than one) provides the > light, but what are the strange things at the bottom and to the right.   N channel MOSFETs https://www.google.com/search?q=fet+schematic+symbol > They look like they are connected to transisors, but they have the > 3 vertical lines, one of which in each set has a left-point arrow.   The left-point arrow arrow means that they are N channel MOSFETs. > The manual has a list of symbols and it has LED, photodiode > and zener diode, but not the strange things in that picture.   > BTW, was this an appropriate post for Imgur?   Only if you are into fucking electronics.   > Most of their posts sseem to be more entertaining. > I though I had flickr and instagram but I can't find the login info. > I don't understand all this computer stuff.   Its actually electronics.

Peeler <trolltrap@valid.invalid>: Apr 14 10:17AM +0200 On Tue, 13 Apr 2021 21:57:37 -0600, lowbrowwoman, the endlessly driveling, troll-feeding, senile idiot, blabbered again:   >> vertical lines, one of which in each set has a left-point arrow.   > https://byjus.com/physics/mosfet/   > Too bad you have me blocked, but so it goes.   If only it were possible to block your endlessly gossiping gob! It seems to have a life of its own, doesn't it, lowbrowwoman? LOL

Arie de Muijnck <eternal.september@ademu.com>: Apr 14 11:08AM +0200 On 2021-04-14 05:43, micky wrote: > thermometer, so that just lives the sort-of trip computer.)   > I understand the LEDs but why zener diodes, and another diode (since > there is 12V DC at the top and ground at the bottom)?   The zeners take over when a LED fails open circuit. The other LED then still gives some light. The middle and bottom diodes protect against polarity reversal (one would have been enough, but probably there are two identical assemblies in ssries).

Adrian Caspersz <email@here.invalid>: Apr 14 12:52PM +0100 On 14/04/2021 04:43, micky wrote:   > On the left is probably the lighting for the 2005 Solara trip computer. > The schematic calls it the Upper Console Panel Sub-Assembly which I > think is the part above the radio (but the schematic lists the clock   It's not a electronics schematic, it's a electrical wiring diagram for auto mechanics. There is a lot that Toyota have chosen not to display, lest you not buy their spare parts as complete modules. But they have given you a general sense of what they do.   > I understand the LEDs but why zener diodes, and another diode (since > there is 12V DC at the top and ground at the bottom)?   Zener diodes to avoid spikes killing the LED, reversed biased they will clamp the voltage to a maximum.   The other diode is reverse polarity protection, as generated by spikes, faults or mildly idiotic users.   > instrument cluster. I aassume the "rheostat" is the thing it has to > adjust the brightnees, that the LED (or more than one) provides the > light, but what are the strange things at the bottom and to the right.   N-Channel Mosfets. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MOSFET   > They look like they are connected to transisors, but they have the 3 vertical lines, one of which in each set has a left-point arrow.   Try a post to sci.electronics.basics     > The manual has a list of symbols and it has LED, photodiode and zener > diode, but not the strange things in that picture.   The actual reality, choice of parts etc... is up to Toyota.     > BTW, was this an appropriate post for Imgur? Most of their posts sseem > to be more entertaining.   For displaying pictures for us, certainly. Preferable to the other two.     > I though I had flickr and instagram but I can't find the login info. I > don't understand all this computer stuff.   If you don't understand "two factor authentication / two step verification", I'd step very carefully on the internet, and close down what you don't use.   As far as I'm concerned, Instagram is for kids.   -- Adrian C

"dansabr...@yahoo.com" <dansabrservices@yahoo.com>: Apr 13 02:20PM -0700 > > won't help? > Waste of time. Dirty CDs don't work one day and not the next, unless there was a substantial influx of dust and dirt blown into the mechanism. Auto CDs in particular are fairly well protected against this. If your CD stopped playing suddenly, something happened to it. First guess is a slipping loading or sled belt.   > I don't work on CDs any more, but when I did, dirty lens usually resulted in a complaint of erratic skipping or muting, and even then, it pointed more to a weak laser than a dirty lens. Cleaning the lens used to buy some time at best.   I agree to a point. If there is sufficient smoke in the area, the lens can get a film on it that a brush won't remove. Here a clean using alcohol and a cotton swab works wonders. Note that this requires removal from the car and opening up the unit. I fixed 100s of CD players this way, mostly form smoking households.

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