- I'm looking for the little buttons that you install - 6 Updates
- Panel-Mounted Non-Polarized Convenience Receptacles - 1 Update
- Where to get wide flat ribbon cables - 1 Update
| John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Apr 14 09:40AM -0700 On 2021/04/14 9:10 a.m., amdx wrote: > a sauna, and 60 Watts is just to bright for the proper ambience. > Thanks for all the information. > Mikek Hi Mikek, As a side note, Acorn TV (on Amazon Prime here in Canada) is broadcasting Brokenwood mystery series (from New Zealand - great fun!) and season 7 episode 2 (my wife and I watched last night) was about a sauna... Who knew these things were so dangerous! And when I was growing up one of our family friends (ex-Fins) loved saunas and introduced us to them. As for lighting, LED bulbs probably not a good idea so I understand incandescent (circuits not affected by heat as much). I trust the bulb is in a sealed enclosure to avoid corrosion... John :-#)# |
| amdx <amdx@knology.net>: Apr 14 11:59AM -0500 On 4/14/2021 11:32 AM, Ralph Mowery wrote: > of filament bulbs, but as far as I know there is no 130 volt service in > the US, so why mark the bulbs as 130 volts ? Just mark them as extended > life or something like that. OK. -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus |
| amdx <amdx@knology.net>: Apr 14 12:04PM -0500 On 4/14/2021 11:40 AM, John Robertson wrote: > incandescent (circuits not affected by heat as much). I trust the bulb > is in a sealed enclosure to avoid corrosion... > John :-#)# Yes, I bought a sauna bulb fixture. I really would like to mount LEDs under the bench, but I haven't found any that have a high temp rating, but I see LED lighting in saunas often. I might be able to get away with LEDs under the bench, there is a large temperature gradient in the sauna, so under the bench is much cooler. -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus |
| John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Apr 14 10:17AM -0700 On 2021/04/14 10:04 a.m., amdx wrote: >> is in a sealed enclosure to avoid corrosion... >> John :-#)# > Yes, I bought a sauna bulb fixture. I really would like to mount LEDs > but I see LED lighting in saunas often. > I might be able to get away with LEDs under the bench, there is a large > temperature gradient in the sauna, so under the bench is much cooler. The exterior strips should work fine, they are sealed in a silicon rubber and have an adhesive strip on the back. Probably not stick well to steamed up wood though. We just found a bunch of 12VDC LED strips in some surplus stuff we bought, but wrong side of the pond for you! https://flippers.com/catalog_oc/index.php?route=product/search&search=main_352 John :-#)# |
| Ralph Mowery <rmowery42@charter.net>: Apr 14 01:57PM -0400 In article <bb18061b-8ea8-4071-acc3-09e4df4bdedfn@googlegroups.com>, peterwieck33@gmail.com says... > Many primary-feed industrial locations ran at 480/277 for lighting and motors. I remember when I was in school our drafting studio was in a former factory right on the Schuylkill in Center City. Wallplate voltage was 130V, lighting was 277, and even the ceiling fans and exhaust fans were 480V. What made it even more interesting was that the primary service to the building was 4-wire, 2-phase converted to three-phase using 'Scott-Connected' transformers, AKA 'Scott-T' transformers. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scott-T_transformer > In the studio, there were all kinds of warning stickers on the receptacles stating that they were at an actual 130V. And for those of us with drafting lights, lamps were supplied. I worked in a large plant as an electrician/instrument technician. Dealt alot with the 480 3 phase motors and heater circuits. We fed the floursescent tubes with one phase to neutral for 277 volts. We did reduce the voltage to 120 volts for the common recepticals. There was just a small ammount of the 208 3 phase circuits. We had just a few 120 volt filament bulb lights so did not get into those very much. Then we got in some 380 volt ( I think that is the voltage) 3 phase stuff from Europe. We were not told that and me and another were trying to set up a heater controler of about 200 amps. Could not get the thing to set up right and them measured the primary voltage and it was about 100 volts low. After some checking found out the voltage fed to the building was only around 380 volts for that european equipment. |
| Tim R <timothy42b@aol.com>: Apr 15 08:24AM -0700 On Wednesday, April 14, 2021 at 1:57:18 PM UTC-4, Ralph Mowery wrote: > Dealt alot with the 480 3 phase motors and heater circuits. We fed the > floursescent tubes with one phase to neutral for 277 volts. We did > reduce the voltage to 120 volts for the common recepticals. The manufacturing plant I worked in had 277V for lighting circuits, and somebody miswired the outlet in my office to that circuit. The custodian burned out three vacuum cleaners in that office, I found out later. We'd never have known except I had to hang a picture or something and I brought in my own drill. It ran way too fast and I put a meter on the outlet. Same plant, I got a good tingle connecting computer network cables. They were shielded bi-ax, and the connectors made good contact with my hands. The PC at one end of the line was connected backwards so chassis was hot instead of ground, but further down the line the coax was grounded to another PC. So trying to connect the two, with one cable in each hand, I completed the circuit. |
| bud-- <null@void.com>: Apr 14 03:15PM -0600 On 4/4/2021 1:00 PM, Cydrome Leader wrote: >>> be more than $1 as I think these are actually UL/CSA approved. >> John: >> As these would never be stand-alone devices, they should carry a UR (with the R reversed) designation. And, yes, that would be handy. Start with UR. Run the letters together. Mirror image it left-right. Slant it like a back italic. >> Melrose Park, PA > Anybody know the history of that symbol? It's cool looking, and seems to > be something beyond what UL would ever come up with on their own. UR is a UL recognized component. They are tested to a UL standard, but to use the component in a UL listed device UL has to clear it for that device or class of devices. That may include conditions for its use. |
| bitrex <user@example.net>: Apr 14 01:22PM -0400 On 4/14/2021 9:47 AM, Peter W. wrote: > Linked is a possible source. > Peter Wieck > Melrose Park, PA Thanks, I didn't know the proper name for the type. I could probably retrofit to take a 14 pin IDC-type cable but the female headers for the ribbon cable both come out of their respective boards at right angles soldered in to plated-thru holes, so it seems like an annoying mod to do unless anyone's got a better idea for that than yanking those out and fitting daughterboards with male pins in their place. |
| You received this digest because you're subscribed to updates for this group. You can change your settings on the group membership page. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it send an email to sci.electronics.repair+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com. |
No Response to "Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 8 updates in 3 topics"
Post a Comment