- Rewiring an antique Torchiere lamp. - 5 Updates
- audio buzzing after PC is turned off - 4 Updates
- KVM power - 2 Updates
| David Farber <farberbear.unspam@aol.com>: Jun 16 01:34AM -0700 I'm rewiring an antique Torchiere lamp. It is very similar (if not identical) to what is shown in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xifZwLZESe4 My question is: Should I replace the old cloth wiring with the same type of wiring? I like the idea that the original cable provided another layer of protection for the separately insulated wires. Here is a photo of the old wire: https://app.box.com/s/60uk1b7uy1cnq6noz223mx7zjzq84770 The wire itself contains 10 strands and I estimate it to be 20 AWG. The cable also has to be thin enough to easily fish through the opening of the satellite candelabra lamp tubing. The diameter of the old cable is 2.5mm and the diameter of the tubing is about 10mm. Thanks for your replies. -- David Farber Los Osos, CA |
| "Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Jun 16 03:54AM -0700 A few things: a) That ancient wire used either silk or mercerized cotton for the cloth covering - no sort of insulation or fire-proofing but strictly for appearance. b) Given that you have a splice-box at the knuckle where the switch branches to the three arms, you might use modern cloth-covered wire (not cheap) to there, and standard 105C zip from the switch to the sockets. c) Do make sure that the cord you use is "Listed" if only for insurance purposes. d) I use a length of ball-chain for fishing in old multi-head lamps and chandeliers. It makes the bends easily and will slide of its own weight for insertion. There is no need for more elaborate means. Best of luck with it. Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA |
| Rheilly Phoull <rheilly@bigslong.com>: Jun 16 09:40PM +0800 On 16/06/2021 4:34 pm, David Farber wrote: > -- > David Farber > Los Osos, CA Meh, the wiring is unseen just use some modern silicon wire rated for the application. |
| David Farber <farberbear.unspam@aol.com>: Jun 16 09:16AM -0700 On 6/16/2021 3:54 AM, Peter W. wrote: > Best of luck with it. > Peter Wieck > Melrose Park, PA Hi Peter, Just so I understand what you're trying to tell me, I see the wiring as described in 4 parts: Part 1 The main power cord that plugs into the wall and feeds up to the top of the lamp. Would that be standard 18/2 lamp cord? Part 2 From there, you have all the hot wires tied together which feed: The Mogul light socket on top The rotary 3-way switch which operates the three candelabra bulbs. By the way, the rotary 3-way switch has its own built-in wiring. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004YULQ I forgot to mention an add-on bulb (NOT added on by me) which is taped to the base of the lamp. Picture is here, https://app.box.com/s/l13ofutlb4phlu3o9fag1jd4nqao7820 Accompanying that add-on bulb is a SPST rotary switch which was placed next to the 3-way candelabra switch at the top of the lamp. Am I correct in saying that all these branched hot wires will be the same kind of wiring? Will that particular wire be the modern cloth wiring or some other type? Part 3 Next are the two output wires of the 3-way rotary switch that tie together with the candelabra socket wiring. The wire from the rotary SPST switch which feeds the bulb at the base of the lamp. Part 4 All the neutral wires. Thanks for helping me sort all this out. One last mention, the center light pole which normally would have one cord going through it will need an extra cord to supply power back to the add-on lamp. The original extra wire running through the pole (which is the same type of wiring that was feeding the candelabra sockets) is the same cord I photographed earlier. I have my doubts whether or not that is UL approved wire. https://app.box.com/s/60uk1b7uy1cnq6noz223mx7zjzq84770 -- David Farber Los Osos, CA |
| David Farber <farberbear.unspam@aol.com>: Jun 16 09:18AM -0700 On 6/16/2021 6:40 AM, Rheilly Phoull wrote: >> Los Osos, CA > Meh, the wiring is unseen just use some modern silicon wire rated for > the application. Thank you for your input. :-) -- David Farber Los Osos, CA |
| whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com>: Jun 15 12:07PM -0700 On Sunday, June 13, 2021 at 6:23:58 AM UTC-7, W Pulaska wrote: > 2496 sound card driving an Altec Lansing speaker set. Works fine when > everything is on, but when the desktop is turned off I am getting a > buzz/ hum from the speakers... Buzz means harmonics from a sawtooth, typically. That indicates that the speaker power source (a wall-wart power brick??) has a capacitor that has gone high-impedance (high ESR, for instance). Speaker amplifiers aren't critically dependent on exact-match power bricks, you can find another (if necessary splice the cord from the old one to fit the socket) that'll work. Sometimes, you can open and repair a power brick. Not often. |
| Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Jun 15 02:21PM -0700 >Pretty simple set up. I have my phono output from my desktop Audiofile >2496 sound card driving an Altec Lansing speaker set. OK. That would be a circa 2002 M-Audio Audiophile 2496 PCI card: <https://www.newegg.com/m-audio-audiophile-2496/p/N82E16829121120> >Works fine when >everything is on, but when the desktop is turned off I am getting a >buzz/ hum from the speakers and loud enough that I power them off. One speaker or both speakers? Is the buzz/hum still there when you turn off the unspecified model Altec Lansing (amplified) speakers? I'm wondering if the problem is in the computah or in the amplified speakers? >Why is this and how to remedy? Thanks. Instead of turning off your unspecified model PC, try unplugging the AC power cable from the PC to insure that it's really turned off. If the hum/buzz disappears, my guess(tm) is the WoL (wake-on-LAN) power from the power supply is making its way somehow to the sound card. I've fixed one similar "noisy when turned off" PC problem by replacing the power supply. Unfortunately, I didn't bother trying to figure out the exact cause. Does your unspecified model PC also have a built in sound card on the motherboard? If yes, unplug the 2496, and try running your unspecified model Altec Lansing speakers from the motherboard sound (green) output. If the hum/buzz goes away with motherboard sound, then the problem might be something on the M-Audio 2496 card. To be sure, try installing a different PCI sound card. If the replacement PCI card doesn't buzz, then it's probably something on the M-Audio 2496 card. Do you have a ground loop isolation audio transformer handy? Something like one of these[1]? <https://www.amazon.com/s?k=ground+loop+isolator+3.5mm> <https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=ground+loop+noise+isolator+3.5mm> I'm not sure what it might mean if installing one of these fixes the hum/buzz problem, but it would be an interesting test. Good luck. [1] I carry some of these in my toolbox. They mostly get used to break the audio ground loop between the TV earphone jack and amplified speakers. -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com PO Box 272 http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Ben Lomond CA 95005-0272 Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
| Bob F <bobnospam@gmail.com>: Jun 15 07:52PM -0700 On 6/13/2021 4:54 PM, Dave Platt wrote: > audio. > A similar unmute-upon-power-on system is used in many commercial audio > components (e.g. tuners and preamps). You could just put a several K ohm resister across the audio signals. It might drop the signal level some, but would pull the noise level down. Adjust the ohms to opimize results. |
| legg <legg@nospam.magma.ca>: Jun 16 10:30AM -0400 On Tue, 15 Jun 2021 14:21:56 -0700, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote: >[1] I carry some of these in my toolbox. They mostly get used to >break the audio ground loop between the TV earphone jack and amplified >speakers. Velcom bag Yeff! RL |
| Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Jun 15 02:43PM -0700 On Sat, 12 Jun 2021 02:13:03 +0000 (UTC), > I've never seen KVM switches needing power before and this one (I bought >several) has no power supply included. But their is a socket for a power >adaptor. Zonet KVM3304. This one? <https://www.amazon.com/Zonet-4-Port-KVM-Switch-cables/dp/B000KUWXCS> "Each unit comes with a set of 4 PS/2 cables, each cable is 3 feet long. No power supply is needed.... each switch draws its power directly through the cables that attach to the desktop." The KVM3304 gets its power from the computer USB port. If you don't have at least one USB cable plugged into a computah USB port, it won't power on. I stupidly bought one of these on eBay without the cables. Big mistake. The designers of this abomination decided to save on the cost of the USB connectors and instead ran the USB data and power through each of the 4 video cable. Without these special cables, it won't work. <https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/PLYAAOSw4f9f9g8k/s-l1600.jpg> <https://www.rackmountsolutions.net/ce-10-combo-3-n-1-kvm-cable-10-ft/> >what happens when I don't have it. ie, maybe I should shut down a few of the >machines. THis thing is 4-way. What's a KVM - Keyboard Video Monito switch >that lets you use multiple computers with one console. Did you get the cables with the KVM3304? According to several web pages and listings the power supply is 9VDC 500ma. However, if you have the correct cables, you shouldn't need an external power supply. -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com PO Box 272 http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Ben Lomond CA 95005-0272 Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
| legg <legg@nospam.magma.ca>: Jun 16 09:19AM -0400 On Tue, 15 Jun 2021 14:43:27 -0700, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote: >According to several web pages and listings the power supply is 9VDC >500ma. However, if you have the correct cables, you shouldn't need an >external power supply. There's no USB on KVM3304 model. Power is drawn from PS-2. RL |
| You received this digest because you're subscribed to updates for this group. You can change your settings on the group membership page. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it send an email to sci.electronics.repair+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com. |
No Response to "Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 11 updates in 3 topics"
Post a Comment